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Brook PS3 to PS4 converter question

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Hello, I had a quick question about the Brook PS3 to PS4 converter-I was wondering if it worked with the Qanba Q4 arcade stick. I really don't want to drop $200+ on a new arcade stick for Street Fighter V, so I was wondering if this adapter works with this stick.
Link to the product for those who don't know: brookaccessory.com/detail/17778036/

Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead.

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UPDATE: Just padhack a hori fighting commander 4 instead.


So you want to add PS4 functionality to your arcade stick? Well too bad. Just wait until there is a third party pcb that is cheap and easy to wire up. Maybe we'll get lucky and there will be a firmware update to any of the
custom ps3 pcb's that are out in the market. Oh, you don't want to wait? You really want it now? Well the only option right now is to padhack a Dual Shock 4 controller. Luckily for us the pcb is common ground. Unluckily for us
the pcb is a pain in the ass to wire up and is quite unforgiving if you mess up. You thought the Xbox One pad hack was hard? This pad hack shits all over it. You accidentally burn off or rip off a contact pad on the ds4 and
you've just wasted $60. The only option after that is to find a via that traces to the contact pad that you've just destroyed. They are not easy to find nor solder to.

So if you think you have the skills or are looking for a challenge you have been warned. Don't hold me responsible if you damage your DS4.

With that being said, let the padhack begin! We will start out with preparing the ds4 pcb.

To begin opening up the DS4 you must unscrew the four screws on the back of the pad.
IMG_0336_zps442ab332.jpg

You'll need to use a size #0, #00, or #000 Phillips head screwdriver. If you don't own one then I suggest buying a Husky precision screwdriver set.
IMG_0337_zps65fe8af9.jpg

You'll need to use a little force to pull apart the shell, but don't pull the shells too far apart too fast. There is a ribbon cable connecting the usb jack to the ds4 pcb. Pull the ribbon cable out first. Then unplug the

lithium ion battery pack. Then cut off the rumble motor wires.
IMG_0338_zps823d7882.jpg

Circled is one more screw that holds the pcb to the shell.
IMG_0339_zpsced0a56e.jpg

Be careful as you lift the pcb out. There is still one more ribbon cable left that needs to be unplugged. It might be a bit difficult to unplug with your finger so using tweezers or forceps will make things easier.
IMG_0340_zpsde1f7a4d.jpg

If you have very tight space limitations inside your case you'll probably will want to desolder the analog jacks and neutralize the axis with 10k ohm resistors. However, for most applications just cutting the stubs and gluing
the stick in place will suffice.
IMG_0341_zpsb1f0d7c5.jpg

If you want to use the micro usb jack, and I suggest you do, then you'll need to unscrew four screws that hold it in place. The top two have to be removed first. Then the led light thingy can be removed to gain access to the
bottom two screws.
IMG_0342_zps8f1dea6e.jpg

Remove and set aside the micro usb jack.
IMG_0343_zpsf0d6dec8.jpg

This is where you'll be wiring up the joystick and buttons to. Looks fun doesn't it?
IMG_0345_zps3e268abe.jpg

To gain access to the copper contact pads the carbon residue has to be scraped off.
IMG_0346_zpse7c0faea.jpg

I have a pick set that I got from radio shack that I use to scrape off the carbon pads. The one on the left I accidentally broke in half from trying to pry something off. I suggest not using these picks to pry stuff off.
IMG_0348_zpsb592d658.jpg

Here's the pinout for the 18 contact pads and which need to be scraped. It is the same for all the model revisions 001, 011, and 020.
1-(Don't worry about me)
2-L1 (needs inverting)
3-10k ohm to pad4
4-L2
5-right
6-up
7-left
8-down
9-ground (Don't worry about scraping me either)
10-home
11-x
12-circle
13-triangle
14-square
15-(Don't worry about me too)
16-R1 (needs inverting)
17-10k ohm to pad18
18-R2
IMG_0349_zps2f5337b0.jpg

Tin the contact pads. Use flux as necessary.
IMG_0350_zps46ac45f6.jpg

Tin the two very small contact spots in the rectangle for Select.
IMG_0351_zps5e8432e9.jpg

Tin the two very small contact spots in the rectangle for Start.
IMG_0352_zps4cd67d9f.jpg

Look at this. This is the ribbon connector for the usb jack. See how simple this is? Want to see how hard your life will be if you don't use this? Just check out the next picture.
IMG_0354_zps133a474f.jpg

These are the four pins you will have to solder to if you don't want to use the micro usb jack. Pretty small and cramped there.
Note this pin out is for the JDM-001 model and the pictures will reference to that model.
8- Vcc
10- D-
12- D+
14- GND

Pin out for the 011 and 020:
7- Vcc
8- Vcc
9- Gnd
10- D-
11- D+
12- Gnd

IMG_0353_zpsdb05b9bc.jpg

Of coarse removing the ribbon connector will make soldering to the contact pads much easier. This route might be necessary if you are limited in case space. In which case you'd have to remove the battery jack too.
IMG_0355_zps79565b7c.jpg


Now the DS4 pcb is all prepared to begin the wiring!

NEW ARCADE FIGHTING STICK HORY

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HI MY NAME IS JIM AND I AM FROM GREECE AND I WANT TO BUY ONE NEW ARCADE FIGHTING STICK FOR PC AND PS4

I SAW THIS FIGHTING STICK Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai HAYABUSA KURO Fight Stick for PS4 / PS3

my question is ......... is it good;; this fighting stick..

or i need more expensive to buy΄΄:;

i have seen and some anothers like
Hori PS4 PS3 Correspondence Real Arcade Pro.V Hayabusa Fighting Stick Controller


Hori Real Arcade Pro.V HAYABUSA Fighting Stick Controller PS4/PS3/PC XInput

Hori Pro.V4 Hayabusa Real Arcade Fighting Stick Game Controller For PS4/PS3


so what to buy i am confused with all these fighting sticks

so what you tell me to buy΄;;;

Hori rap4

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I have a hori rap4 and this is about my second time using it. I was in the middle of trying the sf5 beta and it disconnected and it won't connect again. Anyone else experience this or am I alone..

Common Ground Club - Post up your Common Ground Pad/Stick Finds

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Searching through TT revealed that there isn't a complete list of Common Ground Pads/Sticks out there ready for general consumption. I thought having one long list (thread) would be useful after I posted a similar question on my FB page. Since may of us TT folks like using custom sticks or modifying off the shelf stuff and the latest Fighting Game Tourney news suggests PS4 is the future... it made sense to have discuss some Pad hacking options. So here goes (some from my thread with real names, they won't be used for privacy)...

PS4
Guilty Gear Collector's edition pad - PS4 - Confirmed by Gummo
Hori Fighting Commander 4 - PS4 - Confirmed by Gummo
Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4 - PS4/PS3 - Confirmed by @Jasen Hicks [No inversion, No diodes needed]

PS3

XBOX ONE PADS
XBOX ONE Mini series (triggers need to be inverted) - XBOX ONE - Confirmed by Gummo
Hori Pad One (triggers don't need to be inverted) - XBOX ONE - Confirmed by Gummo
PDP MKX Pads - Confirmed by ???

XBOX 360
Rock Candy - XBOX 360 - Confirmed by Confirmed by Gummo
Mad Catz 4716 PAD (triggers need to be inverted on most revisions) Can be rebranded as GameStop, not to be confused with the PDP made version. - Darksakul
Mad Catz 04758 ARCADE GameSTICK for Xbox Live Arcade (triggers need to be inverted) - Darksakul
PDP 360 Versus Pad (may not be suitable for dual-mod as all the buttons and directions are active-high - Darksakul/FreedomGundam

It's fine for use on its own, though. Just don't plan on using it in a dual-mod.

Nintendo - NES/Famicom
Lacks system Plug/ hardwired to console, electrically compatible with US/European NES consoles - Darksakul
Original Nintendo Japanese Famicom Controllers - Common Ground (both players, both the round and square button varieties) - Darksakul
Sharp Famicom Twin Controllers, all variants (Common ground) - Darksakul
Famicom Titler Controllers (Common ground, identical to Famicom Twin Controller) - Darksakul
Famicom versions used a deep socket DB 15 similar to Neo Geo controllers, electrically compatible with US/European NES consoles. - Darksakul
Original Nintendo Nintendo Entertainment System Controllers - Darksakul
Original Nintendo NES2/NES Top Loader/Famicom AV "Dog Bone" controllers - Darksakul
Hudson Soft Joy Card Famicom Controller (includes the original and the Hector 87 controllers) - Darksakul
Hudson Soft Joycard Sansui SSS NES/Famicom (Needs to test)
Hori NES and Famicom gamepad - Darksakul
NES Max - Darksakul
Nintendo NES Advantage stick - Darksakul
ASCII STICK Controller AS-2088-FC - Darksakul
Yobo Knock off NES/Famicom controller - Darksakul

Super Nintendo/ Super Famicom
Original Nintendo SNES/SFC Gamepad - Darksakul
Nintendo/Hori Super Game Boy Controller - Darksakul

NEO-GEO
AES Stick - Common Knowledge
NGCD Pad - Common Knowledge
NEO-GEO CD Controller Pro - Common Knowledge


Multi-Console PCBs
PS360+ - XBOX, PS2, PS3, XBOX 360, NES, SNES, DREAMCAST, SATURN, Limited PS4
Toodles MC Cthulhu - PS3, PS2, PSX, PC, Gamecube, Wii through Gamecube controller Port, Xbox, Dreamcast, Sega Saturn, TurboGrafx-16/PC-Engine, NES/Famicom, SNES/Super Famicom
Mayflash - PS3 XBOX 360 - Has separate grounds, all 0 volts. You can crossover to any one and the inputs to work fine. Shorting all "grounds" to each other seems to work.

Post your findings in the comments (format like I did for easy of copy/paste) and I will keep this top thread up to date.

I recommend keeping the discussion to the pads and technology and not the shops/sites/etc that carry them. If you need to find one listed, I recommend checking here: www.google.com

EXAR Exaprize USB Stick Sanwa Edition for PlayStation 3

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AVAILABLE AT:

41UaUmDWxJL.jpg

For those of you not familiar with the industrial design of this stick, it is the same as the following:

It's been awhile since I've made a thread for an upcoming release, but trying to be a helpful tech talker again ;)

I have every one of the above sticks... It's an all plastic base, just FYI. It's on the light size. It's nice to have Sanwa parts from the get-go which seems to be the main redeeming factor of this stick; unless you're a fan of the size/weight. Also 6 buttons gets some ppl hot and heavy. ;)

That's all from me. I did not have really great things to say about the other sticks, but now it's different since it is using quality parts.

GG.

The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

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Recently announced Razer Arcade stick looks sleek but it seems to be only on the xbox. Also it doesn't look like it uses quick disconnects that we're used to, But a different kind that has both connectors in 1.
more info at their site, Don't forget to sign up for their beta Program!
Link: http://www.razerzone.com/bredtofight

EDIT:
List of suggestions:
Mandatory
Different Quick Connects for the buttons and stick
Common Ground PCB
Move the insides to the Bottom of the Stick
Move The Latch that Opens the stick
Make the height inside the stick taller so it can have parts that aren't japanese

Minor
Button Layout
Include Button Plugs

Joystick Modding Help

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I just bought my first stick. After years of pad play I felt the urge to try it. I bought a nice, cheap, well reviewed starter stick. (Venom Fight Stick)

I started practising, and everything feels really good. Except I feel like the stick has a kind of awkward stock joystick. (right inputs off and misaligned and I have to move the stick further on the right than on the left). Overall sort of janky feeling stick. So I decided to buy a Sanwa JLF Joystick to replace it. Feels way more responsive out of the box. However when I opened up the fight stick I noticed that the stock joystick has soldered wires instead of the 5 pin connector. I'm not quite sure what I need to do to to properly put in the new stick. The JLF stick has a 5 pin connector with 5 wires on the other side. But the stock stick has 6 soldered wires connected to the joystick's PCB and the other side is 4 2(?) pin connectors labelled up, down, left, right on the controller PCB.

I don't know much about hardware so bare with me on a few things, but how do I install the new stick?

Hori Fighting Commander 4 owners

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Hey I was wondering if any of the people who use the Hori Fighting Commander 4 give me some insight before I buy it. I plan on using this for PC.

Does it work for Streetfighter 5? Is the Dpad and buttons responsive and good? And is it easy to execute special moves and combos on the controller?

Thanks in advance!

The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

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Welcome Sheets:
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf

MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip

Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/

Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.

Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis

Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.

_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:

Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.

Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.

Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)

Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)

Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread

Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.

Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.

Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.

Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.

Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power

Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack

Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.

Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.

Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.

Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.

Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework

Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:
Spoiler:

PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS

PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select

PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)

1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X

Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A

Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start

Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks

NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)

NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A

NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start

SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select

Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L

3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop

TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)

Normal:
1K: II
2K: I

Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I

Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I


Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.

Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.

Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.

Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.

Q: What about converter support?
A:
Spoiler:
Tested as working:
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)

Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
____________
ChimpSMD Questions

Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.

Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577

Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.

Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.

Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.

Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.

Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp

Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306


Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3:
[] /\  R1  L1
 X  O  R2  L2
For Xbox360:
X  Y  RB  LB
A  B  RT  LT
You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.

Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.

Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.

Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.

Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:

If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:

Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)

If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.

Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html

Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.

Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.

Hori HRAP V4 announced... compatible with PS3 AND PS4

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http://www.play-asia.com/hori-real-arcade-pro-v4-hayabusa-paOS-13-49-en-70-7nn7.html

Launching in May for $190.
Compatible with PS3, PS3 Slim, AND PS4! I think this is the first official PS4 joystick announced for market.

It's a Hayabusa HRAP. Hayabusa control lever and Kuro buttons installed. No SA or SE monikers; this is an ALL-Hori joystick but no worries. These are quality parts at least as well-performing and durable as or better than the Sanwa and Seimitsu product.

Hopefully, this sees a US release in the near-future...

These guys also talk about the joystick --
http://iplaywinner.com/news/2014/4/3/hori-japan-to-release-new-real-arcade-pro-model-compatible-w.html

It IS cheaper through other outlets like AmiAmi.
Bad news -- no international release scheduled yet but I would be surprised if it doesn't show up on US shores.


My one complaint --
I wish Hori had used the HRAP N3/NX as the base for this joystick or even the Fighting Edge.
I'm not a huge fan of the HRAP V3/VX base.

Anybody here still use their MAS sticks?

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What would i need to have it modded on all systems including ps1/2/ and dreamcast? Whats the best way to tackle this?

Project: Dedicated Smash Bros Arcade Stick - FINISHED! (Pics and Vids)

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Update:
Intro Video
image

Stick in action
image

Full details here:
Spoiler:
Non-Analog Arcade Stick
This was the one I competed with at CEO. The gamecube padhack is housed in a qanba q1 I had already owned and I upgraded the parts to sanwa at CEO. The analog version currently lacks a case because the LS-64 is too big to mount in any existing case I have, I have to get a case custom made for it.

Top view - shows button layout. Ignore the button names on the default qanba artwork.
4 orange buttons = A, L, Y, B (from bottom to right)
4 yellow buttons = c-stick buttons (up, down, left, and right)
green button = "shift" button. (See video below)
Spoiler:
bzB9ddi.jpg
3gGxSqI.jpg
image
Demonstration was done via Dolphin emulator because I don't own any nintendo consoles, however the shift button on the arcade stick works the same way on console as it does in Dolphin emulator. Whenever the shift button (green button) is NOT pressed, the joystick is 100% engaged (acting as the left analog stick). Whenever the shift button IS pressed, the joystick is x% engaged. I can I open the stick and adjust the percentage (in every direction) if I'd like but I currently have it set to 40%. I plan to raise it but need to do more testing to find what will be appropriate. The shift button is what allows me to walk/run, and do tilt attacks so it was an integral part of this build since this stick lacks an analog joystick.

If you look to the left of the stick (in the video), you can see a gamecube-PC adapter, this is needed so I can use the stick on the computer since the stick now lacks a usb cable and now natively uses a gamecube cable (since there's a gamecube PCB inside it).
Spoiler:
wBPz0m7.jpg


Due to the gamecube PCB inside, Gummo had to dremel off a piece of the interior structure of the case so the case could close. The piece that was removed served no vital part of the structure of the case, it was just a piece that allowed the qanba q1 to be mounted with table clamps. We covered the hole with black electric tape.
Spoiler:
T5SIg9S.jpg
z8A5vA5.jpg
maxresdefault.jpg

Now for the part that every one wants to see... the guts!
tKTY6un.jpg

I highlighted 3 unique areas of the insides (see spoiler below).
Red = screw terminals which is where the buttons and everything are connected to. This allows solderless removal/addition of buttons since currently not every button is mapped to the stick because I currently lack enough buttons on the stick.
Green = Trigger potentiometer. This is a slider that is normally attached to the gamecube controller's trigger, sliding this allows me to set whatever % I'd like for the light shield button. Currently the stick lacks a light shield button and only has a hard shield button. This will change once I get a new case/plexi with enough button holes.
Blue = 4 potentiometers that allow me to adjust how much % the "shift" button will change the joystick to. Each pot controls one direction of the joystick. You just take a small flathead screw driver and turn them, it's pretty simple. However, they will turn forever so I hooked up the arcade stick to a computer to know how much % I'm getting when I'm turning them.

I also included close-up's of the pcb.
Spoiler:
1Qxuoa3.jpg
hUY3RnT.jpg
qsi8Ifz.jpg



Analog Arcade Stick
This is the stick that will use the LS-64. Because this one lacks a case, I can only show you the wired PCB, buttons, and joystick (LS-64).
Spoiler:
P1NLQFl.jpg
IryW0pG.jpg
tsYeHvf.jpg


Original Post (outdated):
Spoiler:
Intro

I know this thread/topic has come up numerous times in the past, but I have done my research into this to make sure this thread isn't anything close to a repost. The thread will be ordered into an easy to read manner, as well as important parts being bolded (if you want a tldr version) and my final question listed at the bottom.

This is a project I would love to start but there are physical limitations I don't know how to get around, which is why I'm creating this thread. In short, I want to create an arcade stick dedicated to playing Smash Bros which doesn't limit me to things normally available on a normal Gamecube controller. This means that a digital joystick is not a possibility.

Two main features I want included in the finished arcade stick are: an analog/49 way joystick and a "lock" button allowing the joystick to also be used as a c-stick.



Parts/Features

Joystick
Movement is done by an analog stick in Smash Bros (walk/run). So the joystick must be either analog or 49-way. Both sticks would serve the same purpose in what is needed to play. The picture below shows an example of how it works by throw distance (how far the stick is engaged).
Spoiler:
Visual Illustration
mdmmUst.jpg

Different Deadzone Possibilities
Tight: Kqiq6VR.png Medium: CGxdgGx.png

Source:
http://web.archive.org/web/20120201184812/http://urebelscum.speedhost.com/49waySticks.html
Goes into great detail on how 49-way joysticks work.

I narrowed my choices down to 3 joysticks: [analog] the seimitsu ls-64 and ultramarc ultrastik 360; [49 way] happ 49-way joystick. My top choice is the seimitsu ls-64 but it apparently is extremely hard to purchase online now.

C-Stick
A feature I would really like to be included is the ability to use the joystick as the C-stick as well. Toodles has already made such a feature in his Cthulhu Multi Console PCB which is described in detail below.
Spoiler:
Toodles wrote: »
5. Smash Bros. Advanced [hold Fierce and Roundhouse when plugging in.]..........'lock' button is for complex C-stick manuevers. It locks the analog stick where its at, and your stick will control the C-stick until you release the lock button. So, to do Peach's floating b-air, jump and hold up on your stick, hold the lock button, and move the stick to the left or right.

Source:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/1620359/#Comment_1620359





Problems

A requirement for this arcade stick, is for it to work on a Gamecube. Every console version of Smash Bros (besides Smash 64) will be playable since the Gamecube controller works on the Wii, and Wii U as well.

Joystick
One problem I have is the incompatibility of the joysticks themselves. The Ultramarc Ultrastik 360 only works on PC, and the Happ 49-way joystick was originally used in certain arcade games:
Spoiler:
Global VR Madden Football, Midway NBA Showtime, Williams Blitz, Blitz 99 and Gauntlet
so I'm unsure if it's possible to be used. This leaves my first choice of available joysticks left, the Seimitsu LS-64. Like I said earlier, it's extremely hard to find being sold online. So if anybody is able to find one being sold, I'd love to be given a link.

PCB
My first choice was using Toodle's Cthulhu Multi-Console PCB (since it has a Smash Bros feature allowing use of the "lock" C-stick button), but this PCB doesn't allow analog input from the joystick, nor do the majority of fighting game multi-console PCB's either. A solution to this, would be Toodle's patching the Cthulhu PCB to allow analog input; but I'm not sure if this is possible. I will be emailing him (he hasn't logged on SRK in 2 years) shortly after making this thread asking him about this.

My second choice was padhacking a Gamecube PCB but using this option wouldn't allow me make use of the "lock" C-stick button. The C-stick is an important part of playing Smash Bros, so I wouldn't want to lose this feature. It would be possible for my to add 4 extra buttons mapped to the C-stick for each cardinal (up, down, left, right) direction; but I wouldn't enjoy this layout.



Final Thoughts and Questions

Smash is essentially a 4 button game. X/Y - Jump, L/R - Shield, A - Attack, and B - Shield.
Z is simply used as a shortcut of L/R + A so it isn't needed as a button, and the Dpad (Dpad Down would be mapped for character specific uses) is used as a taunt (which serves uses in competitive play).
Spoiler:
ex: Kirby removing a character hat after inhaling an opponent; ex: Footstool (jump on top of somebody's head) which was a mechanic added in Brawl and Smash 4
I believe a 6 button layout (I prefer Vewlix) should be used, with the hand resting "KOF" style on the main 4 buttons, and the bottom 2 buttons being "Dpad" and "Lock". See the picture below.
Spoiler:
Ignore the red scratch, I just removed the %'s I had written for the joystick's throw distances.
I2vBm3s.png

Ignore the different button layout, this picture just shows a possibility of extra buttons used for the C-stick if the "lock" button isn't a possibility.
CxCrzK8.png

What are your guys' thoughts on how I can get an analog joystick working? And/or how can I get the C-stick "lock" button working if I padhacked a Gamecube controller?



Why Make this?
Spoiler:
This is Tech Talk where projects like these are seen as cool! I've always wanted to play Smash Bros on a stick, but due to the limitations of an arcade stick using digital parts; it's simply not viable. I want to get around this barrier since I actually believe an arcade stick (with an analog joystick of course) would be a superior way of playing the game over the standard Gamecube controller. The joystick allows a high amount of precision over your movement, tilts/smashes, and aerials compared to a Gamecube controller. The arcade buttons also make advanced techniques extremely easy (I played PC netplay on a digital arcade stick to test) compared to the un-ergonomic Gamecube controller (your hand has to move all over the Gamecube controller compared to resting in one spot on an arcade stick).

The "wow" factor of playing Smash Bros on an arcade stick is worth it alone to me, but I also want to open up the door for other people who want to play Smash Bros on a stick. Many people have been interested in doing this project but nobody has actually done it yet, I would like to lay the foundation and give directions for other people to follow.

Hori Fighting Commander (PS3/PS4/PC Xinput) / Fighting Stick Mini 4 with Hayabusa-like joystick?!

Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

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The Kaimana LED Controller is a powerful new tool for those looking to get the most out of their custom arcade stick or cabinet! This is the first board to used indexed LEDs in an arcade stick and allows for RGB control and animations. It is also the first fight stick RGB LED controller to provide full RGB control for joystick ball tops and hit box configurations.

image
image

The Kaimana can run conventional LEDs like the Pele's or Uila's with an adapter board or can be used to run the new Kaimana J's:
paradise-kaimana-j-rgb-led.jpg

Unlike previous LED boards, the Kaimana uses indexed LEDs so they can be connected in series and you don't have to have multiple wires running from the controller board to each LED
Diagram:
fetch.php?w=500&tok=633a2d&media=kaimana_led_chain_default.png
Example (jwyder's stick):
KaimanaInstaled_zpsdfcceb65.jpg

It is also designed for easy installation as a pass through board. The pinouts are the same as a PS360 so modding your dual mod stick could not get any easier!

Diagram:
KaimanaWiringDiagram_zps1cfc4cc6.png

I have installed three of these systems, and total install time, including installing all the buttons and joystick ahs been less than 1 hour each time using the Kaimana J's

Based on the infinitely flexible Arduino, this board can do just about anything you can imagine. Because it uses the extremely simple to learn Arduino programming language, this board opens the gate for anyone to create their own light patterns and shows.

As people invent there own animations series we will be adding them to the store for download and people who contribute programs will be able to earn store credit! As of right now the entire Ryu special move set for SFIV has been coded with animations. The best part is that all you need is a USB cable and any of the programs created can be loaded in seconds!

Boards and accessories can be purchased here:
paradise-kaimana-led-controller-pcb.jpg


Mad Catz TE2 xbox 360 dosn't work on PC

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Hello,
just bought me the Mad Catz Stick TE2 Stick for Xbox 360. Thought they work fine on PC with the Xbox360 Gamepad driver for PC But it seems it doesn't accept the driver. The Xbox Light just blinks shortly at start and goes off and the Device Manager says theres no Driver for that Device. But it recognizes the Stick.

Any Advice?

The "Stickless Arcade Stick" Thread.

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It seems wrong to discuss competing/custom products in the Hitbox thread.

This thread is dedicated to the use/discussion/learning of these controllers outside the realm of the Hitbox.

I've got a custom build on its way to me now. It's a 6 button instead of 8, but the left hand layout is nearly identical.

How have y'all been liking these? What do you think about their impact on The Scene?

What first interested me in them was precision. You won't end up trying for a dragon punch and getting a fireball because of a slight error on your part as long as you know how to operate the controller. Now, you could say the same about knowing how to use a joystick - you should get the DP if you go for it. That's fair, but you're still dealing with Operator Error even at the highest levels of execution. The "SAS" (I don't know what the preferred nomenclature is) seems like it will nearly eliminate this problem once you learn it well.

Thoughts?

Razer Atrox XbOne USFIV Issue

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Hi everyone, just want to start by saying thank you for any help in advance and hopefully I'm posting in the correct section, if I'm not I apologize.

Anyways, I just picked up a new Xbox One Razer Atrox stick which was mainly going to be used for my PC to play USFIV. Upon plugging it in, my computer recognized the controller almost instantaneously but my USFIV on steam did not, so here are the list of steps I've done so far:
  • I have automatically updated drivers but was told the newest ones were already installed
  • Plugged it into another USB port.
  • Revert back to 6.2 drivers back from May or July where finally USFIV recognized the controller

Dandy right? No not just yet, after playing through trials, I realized my RT and LT was not working. I searched online and realized this was a common occurrence but I cannot for the life of me find the fix. For now I have currently physically remapped my LB to the RT which gives me the 6 button function but I realize it would be so much easy to do a 8 button layout like the stick was designed to do. For all intents and purposes I love this stick, it's absolutely easy to modify and took me 3 minutes to remap the wiring, but I really would like to get my Triggers working. I called Razer but they weren't sure if they can give me a fix either. Please guys, I really would like to get my stick fully functional but I could deal with the 6 button layout for now. Hope to hear some feedback, thanks.

Hori RAP4 right direction microswitch busted.

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The micro switch for the right direction is pretty much messed up. You need to push it in much farther than is needed, past the point where it clicks. This makes down and up right directions an impossibility.
I first noticed it today when I installed a sanwa octagonal restrictor gates and quarter circle right motions appeared as down and right, with no down-right. It wasn't inconsistent, but still worked sometimes.
It got worse when I opened it up again, though, to the point where it simply wouldn't happen. Could only walk right. No right jumps and no fireballs going to the right.
Anyone know if hayabusa sticks have easily replaceable micro switches?
Do I actually have to replace it?
What do you do to remove micro switches? What types do the hayabusa have?
Any help will be appreciated.
PS: I recently got this stick on the 9th of this month. Unsurprisingly all these issues happened just today after I installed the octagonal gate and got worse steadily. I have placed the old stock square gate back and no results.

Making CP for Blast City, Astro City and HSS-0130

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Hi,

I want to make some CPs, for my sticks and cabinets, but don't really know what material is the overlay made of. Besides, there I noticed there are two different colors for the Blast City, one is more blue/yelowish, other more purple/redish, are both legit?

I know I can buy them, but it would be a fortune, I would rather do them by myself, so if anybody has done them I would appreciate the help.
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