The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

September 14, 2011, 6:57 pm

≫ Next: Madcatz TE2+ Fightstick PS3/PS4 Switch Problem

≪ Previous: MAD CATZ Tournament Edition Sticks, Gone for Good?

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Recently announced Razer Arcade stick looks sleek but it seems to be only on the xbox. Also it doesn't look like it uses quick disconnects that we're used to, But a different kind that has both connectors in 1.
more info at their site, Don't forget to sign up for their beta Program!
Link: http://www.razerzone.com/bredtofight

EDIT:
List of suggestions:
Mandatory
Different Quick Connects for the buttons and stick
Common Ground PCB
Move the insides to the Bottom of the Stick
Move The Latch that Opens the stick
Make the height inside the stick taller so it can have parts that aren't japanese

Minor
Button Layout
Include Button Plugs

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Madcatz TE2+ Fightstick PS3/PS4 Switch Problem

April 27, 2017, 8:50 pm

≫ Next: Post pictures of your SF/entertainment setup!

≪ Previous: The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

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So, I just bought a madcatz TE2+ Fightstick and it wont work on PS4. The problem is that ps4 doesnt recognize it ( and so all the upper keys including PS button,Pad and share buttons wont work). but when i introduce it through legacy controller in Street fighter V it works fine ( except PS and other mentioned buttons). I know that i should first put the switch to Ps4 and then plug it and also i am sure that it isnt locked. when i tested it on Ps3 suddenly all of buttons work just fine even when the switch is in Ps4 mode. i came to conclusion that the stick has stuck in Ps3 mode and the switch cant change it to Ps4. As madcatz is out of business i wonder if anyone here can help me. If anyone can provide me at least with the schematic of the two PCB that were used in that fightstick ( i mean the main PCB and The one that has Ps,Ps3/PS4 switch and also touch pad on it ) that would very much be appreciated. thank you all guys.

Post pictures of your SF/entertainment setup!

July 18, 2005, 7:02 am

≫ Next: The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!!

≪ Previous: Madcatz TE2+ Fightstick PS3/PS4 Switch Problem

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Mines:

http://www.ihostphotos.com/show.php?id=86973

The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!!

March 4, 2010, 1:54 pm

≫ Next: Akishop V2.10 ps360 question

≪ Previous: Post pictures of your SF/entertainment setup!

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I figured we need a place for everyone to post their Arcade Cabinets. Custom Built, MAME Machines, Cocktails, Straight from the arcade, Whatever!!!

I've seen some really nice cab's here, but it's hard to find them all.

I'll start.



This is my Dynamo 20" Street Fighter 2 Cab. Currently houses a PS2 with hacked DS1 pads under the CP.



Up next is my Current WIP. It's a vewlix style cab using T5's as a CP. This should be done in a few weeks.



Last is my MAME setup. Usually going for high scores in Donkey Kong. Had to build the CP from scratch. Pretty Stoked about how it came out.



Alright all, let's see some Cabs!!!

Akishop V2.10 ps360 question

July 21, 2017, 4:38 pm

≫ Next: Brook PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB Thread

≪ Previous: The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!!

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I was reading in some old threads the 1st versions of this Pcb had real problems working on the Psx 1 n 2 . Anyone know if v2.10 works fine with psx1-2 or is there still issues

Brook PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB Thread

November 6, 2015, 3:49 pm

≫ Next: Qanba Q1 Modding Help

≪ Previous: Akishop V2.10 ps360 question

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Hey Everyone,

Brook just announced a new 40mm x 40mm Square PCB called the "Fight Board". Myself and few SRK tech talk members had some early access to the board and have been testing it for the past few weeks. With the help of our feedback they are ready for retail production and will be available through Brook's retail channels worldwide later this month (November 2015) at around $40 (US).



Features:
- Auto detects PS3 and PS4
- No 8 Minute Timeout on PS4
- SOCD Cleaner
- Firmware Updatable
- Optional Access to Turbo, Analog Controls (via firmware Update), TouchPad & Touchpad button, & LEDs.
- Common Ground



*One thing to note is that It requires soldering to access the inputs and does not come with screw terminals. So break out those irons...

As far as initial performance goes myself and @wazwuz have found the board to perform slightly faster or atleast equal to a FC4 pad hacked board. We will be testing further and with more detail when the retail firmware is available.

Brook via @gogo.zippy will be closely monitoring this thread throughout its initial release and as always will be available for questions and feedback.

Qanba Q1 Modding Help

July 22, 2017, 12:53 am

≫ Next: Kaimana Mini LED install into a Panzer 3 Hitbox - Need help

≪ Previous: Brook PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB Thread

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Hey there,
I recently just bought my first fightstick ever (Qanba Q1) and really enjoyed playing with it so far. The only problem I really had so far was that I didnt like the buttons that came with the stick. It is too mushy and easy to click. I play Tekken 7 currently, and after opening the stick up I figured it wouldnt be hard to swap the buttons out for something better and not as mushy as these. My question is, should I put in new Seimitsu buttons (the PS-15 Low Profiles) inside or Sanwa Buttons instead? What do you guys suggest to do?

Kaimana Mini LED install into a Panzer 3 Hitbox - Need help

July 22, 2017, 3:06 pm

≫ Next: Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

≪ Previous: Qanba Q1 Modding Help

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So I'm installing the Paradise Kaimana mini into a Panzer fight stick 3 hitbox with brook UFB. I followed the directions on the paradise Youtube video but the stick won't power up with the Kaimana board in it. I got it to power up once by hooking up the micro USB to the Kaimana and everything came on but some buttons weren't working. Like options and 1K. What am I doing wrong? Please see the screenshots below for how I have it hooked up. Thanks for your help in advance.

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Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

November 3, 2013, 1:15 am

≫ Next: Using Multiple PCBs in One Stick/Dual PCB Arcade Stick Questions

≪ Previous: Kaimana Mini LED install into a Panzer 3 Hitbox - Need help

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The Kaimana LED Controller is a powerful new tool for those looking to get the most out of their custom arcade stick or cabinet! This is the first board to used indexed LEDs in an arcade stick and allows for RGB control and animations. It is also the first fight stick RGB LED controller to provide full RGB control for joystick ball tops and hit box configurations.




The Kaimana can run conventional LEDs like the Pele's or Uila's with an adapter board or can be used to run the new Kaimana J's:


Unlike previous LED boards, the Kaimana uses indexed LEDs so they can be connected in series and you don't have to have multiple wires running from the controller board to each LED
Diagram:

Example (jwyder's stick):


It is also designed for easy installation as a pass through board. The pinouts are the same as a PS360 so modding your dual mod stick could not get any easier!

Diagram:


I have installed three of these systems, and total install time, including installing all the buttons and joystick ahs been less than 1 hour each time using the Kaimana J's

Based on the infinitely flexible Arduino, this board can do just about anything you can imagine. Because it uses the extremely simple to learn Arduino programming language, this board opens the gate for anyone to create their own light patterns and shows.

As people invent there own animations series we will be adding them to the store for download and people who contribute programs will be able to earn store credit! As of right now the entire Ryu special move set for SFIV has been coded with animations. The best part is that all you need is a USB cable and any of the programs created can be loaded in seconds!

Boards and accessories can be purchased here:

Using Multiple PCBs in One Stick/Dual PCB Arcade Stick Questions

July 22, 2017, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

≪ Previous: Kaimana RGB LED Board thread, RGB animations and more! SRK Tech Talk 2013 Product of the Year!

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I can't entirely tell if this is the right category to post this within, but I plan on building an arcade stick that is multi-console compatible, but with a huge lack of MC Cthulhus available and my specific needs in general, I have an idea that I need help figuring out.

To start off, the discussion title does state one part of the question, I know it is POSSIBLE to use multiple PCBs, but in my case, I have questions on how I would go about doing such a thing, especially with the different PCBs in existance. My plan is to build a Dreamcast/PS3 compatible arcade stick, using the Madcatz Dreampad PCB for the Dreamcast portion, and more than likely a third party PS3 controller PCB. However, this adds on a few issues that I need help to address. One, size of the enclosure. It is really hard for me to decide on an enclosure here or just build my own due to the size of the Dreampad's VMU slots (which is one of the main reasons, along with the digital triggers, I'm going for a Dreampad PCB and not a standard nor Agetec PCB), as well as the overall size of having the multiple PCBs. Also, with so many PS3/PS4 PCBs available for pretty fair prices, would it just be better to be safe and get one of the PS3/PS4 PCBs for future-proofing in terms of tournaments and otherwise just locals? And one thing that has really been bugging me about the idea, how both the buttons and joysticks will connect to BOTH PCBs at the same time, as well as having the ability to switch power off from one wire in an incident where both are plugged in so I don't fry my Dreamcast controller ports.

So, if anyone has some recommendations, tips, and otherwise just constructive help, that would be a major help to my project. Thank you for reading this and taking the time to respond, if possible.

Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

October 16, 2013, 5:40 pm

≫ Next: [MiniCad Project] - Mini Arcade Cabinet (21cm high) - 5" HDMI screen + RaspberryPi + arcade controls

≪ Previous: Using Multiple PCBs in One Stick/Dual PCB Arcade Stick Questions

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Making the thread so we can combine our efforts and do this as soon as we can. I am going to try to get my hands on a controller asap.

P.S. This may be a little early but..... the people need this. Also missed Team tech talk, sup. If you are a big dog around here, please reply below, I only know OG's

JUST WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR THEIR AWESOME WORK. HERE IS AN AWESOME PCB PINOUT GUIDE BY CHAOTIC MONK(Great Job!)

ChaoticMonk wrote: »

Heres an attempt to consolidate the thread into a guide.

If your new to padhacking, highly recommend reading this as it goes over a lot of it http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html

Before you begin, test the controller out and make sure all the inputs work. Last thing you'd want to do is void it and later discover its a dud.

Start off by removing the boards from inside the pad as done in this vid (you can stop watching at 6:26).


You'll be left with 2 PCBs shown below with the spots you'll be connecting too (optionally you could connect to the pins shown but can be difficult due to close proximity)


On Top Board Topside you'll notice a 'sticker' on the dpad.


You'll want to use something thin and sharp to lift an edge then you should be able to just peel it off.


Gently and carefully scrape off the black stuff at the signal points till you see shiny metal (careful not to scrap too much or you could take off the contact point).


keep going on all the signal points till you have shiny metal visible and ready for tinning.


Tin (apply small amount of solder) the signal points and wires. Can be made easier with the use of flux


Solder the wires to the signal points (put tinned wire against tinned signal point, apply heat and they should join together)


You'll want to apply a dab of hot glue to the wire next to each solder to stop it from moving around and potentially breaking off.

When connecting the triggers (RT & LT), you'll need to use a 100ohm resistor
(img credit MacabreMonster)

The two analog cubes can be left on the board or taken off and replaced with resistors.

If leaving on the board simply cut down the grey analog pole that sticks out of the cube and while making sure its centered, apply hot glue to keep it in place.
(img credit socks)

If removing, you'll need to replace with 4 resistors (10k ohm recommended).
There'll be 2 sets of 3 points. You'll need to connect a resistor from each of the outer points to the center point.


Once you have everything wired up your ready to add to your stick. The rest depends on what your setup is.

If your just doing an Xbone stick then its just a matter of connecting the wires to the button/stick and feeding a micro usb cable through.
(img credit MacabreMonster)

If adding to an existing setup with other boards you'll either want to use a seperate usb cable for xbone and leave the existing usb for your current setup
or you'll need to add a switch to determine where the usb should go (could be an actual switch or an Imp board).
Just make sure every board has power (VCC) and ground connected to it or you'll run into issues with buttons pressing by themselves.


Good luck!

[MiniCad Project] - Mini Arcade Cabinet (21cm high) - 5" HDMI screen + RaspberryPi + arcade controls

May 10, 2017, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: www.JasensCustoms.com - Panzer Fight Sticks, ADCAP SuperGuns, EZ MODs, and more!

≪ Previous: Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

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Hey everyone!

I've started a couple of weeks ago building a mini arcade cabinet. The goal is to make something tiny enought to be on a desk, but with a screen big and fast enought to be used.

A bit of history:
Last year, after buying a cheap mini arcade machine and be uterly desapointed, a friend asked me if I could build him a small arcade cabinet, but with real arcade game: he insists on Final Fight, Shinobi, etc... in shrot, he wanted MAME but in a tiny build.
After showing him "small" ones with 10" screen and real controls (Sanwa and all) he says it was too big and wanted something small like the cheap one.

So here's the first draft I've made in cardboard to check with him the size:


After agreed on the size I went into making it with a 3.5" TFT screen in SPI mode.
Fast forward one year later (yeah, I know, but to my defense I've build him a GameBoy Nano) I've finally make the screen working:


Unfortunately, the refresh rate didn't satisfied him.
I went back on the bench and check what screen I could use.

I found a great 5" TFT screen, with a HDMI driver:
- https://www.adafruit.com/product/1680
- https://www.adafruit.com/product/2218

Screen is 120mm large (4.7") and so will my cabinet be.
To give the abilty to print sticker easily on a A4 sheet (21cm*29.7cm), the cabinet must be 21cm height tops.

---

So here the goals I fixed for the build:

Main Goals:
- Raspberry Pi 2/3 with easy access to replace/upgrade later
- Screen, small as possible but with a good refresh rate
- Controls looking as an arcade: Stick and 6 buttons (plus start/select/home)
- Power on/off switch
- 21cm height TOPS.

Secondary goals:
- HDMI output possible to hook it up to a big screen,
- Same with audio/video jack,
- Should be build as a "kit" in mind, especially the structure,
- Internal sounds,
- Accessibility to the SD slot of the Pi without dessambling everything,
- Close as possible to a real arcade shape,

Fancy-pantsy features:
- Lit Marquee
- Volume Control with jack sense (cut the internal sounds when plug on the jack)

---

Design was finished in a CAD software


This would help me to keep track of measurements and test before printting the space inside the cab.

At first, I intended to use balsa wood sticks, make the parts as counter molds, then resin-cast them.

But eventually, I bought a cheap 3D printer which accelerate drastically the build:


This is a Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus. Structure will be printed in PLA.


Edit: tipos and better english

www.JasensCustoms.com - Panzer Fight Sticks, ADCAP SuperGuns, EZ MODs, and more!

June 1, 2014, 8:12 am

≫ Next: Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases.

≪ Previous: [MiniCad Project] - Mini Arcade Cabinet (21cm high) - 5" HDMI screen + RaspberryPi + arcade controls

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Good morning everyone! Wanted to throw launch the shop into the Tech Talk Community because why not... every other vendor has. I'll migrate over my SALES threads to here and ask the mods to close them out once I get everything moved over.

** About me and the Shop **

Some of you may know me, some of you may not... I am Jasen and I am a DIY-Aholic. I build Fight Sticks, SuperGuns, Print and Cut Custom Graphics, and Sell buttons, sticks, and tech to fuel my addiction. What started out as a minor hobby as a kid (pulling things apart to see how they worked and getting rocked at Street Fighter II and Samurai Showdown) turned into an obsession. Many things I make such as the Panzer Fight Sticks, SuperGun Cases, and graphics started out as something I needed for a project I was working on. Over the past two years it evolved into a "business", a term I use loosely because I'm not trying to make money... just trying to save it for my random projects and passing it along the best I can to the community. By night I may be an arcade/gaming enthusiast but by day I am a LCDR in the US Navy and drive Submarines for a living. Because of my day job I have been able to learn a lot of crazy stuff that has influenced my designs and projects. Thanks Navy for training me and testing me as a Nuclear Engineer!

I run this by myself so I know the quality of parts, prints, and builds... in my house. America was built from the home, I'm going to try and keep it that way. Plus it saves me money :-D
[url=" http://www.JasensCustoms.com"]
www.JasensCustoms.com
[/url]
** Announcement Section / New Projects **

Panzer 2.0 Pre Orders are open again. All white options are available during this time!

Working on the HRAP 4 EZ MOD and the TE2 EZ MOD. I think the HRAP4 variant will be very pricey retail and based on the cost of the stick might not be worth doing. Open to thoughts!

Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases.

May 18, 2010, 8:37 am

≫ Next: good tower for 500 usd

≪ Previous: www.JasensCustoms.com - Panzer Fight Sticks, ADCAP SuperGuns, EZ MODs, and more!

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Cases are now available on my site: Art's Hobbies

!!! 3/27/11 NEW Updates regarding Diamond Joints and Hitbox! Jump to post #702


LOTS OF INFO AND TONS OF PICS INCOMING!

***** PLEASE CHECK THE 2ND POST OF THIS THREAD FOR Q&A and FUTURE UPDATES . READ THAT FIRST IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS IN CASE YOUR QUESTION IS ALREADY ANSWERED! I WILL NO LONGER ANSWER QUESTIONS THAT ARE ALREADY ADDRESSED IN THAT POST. Please just take a moment to read the info...


These cases will be available on my website, Welcome to Art's Hobbies, in early September.
These are Cases ONLY. Not full fightsticks. Joysticks, Buttons, PCBs are not included

Hey guys! I would like to reveal a project I've been working on for the past few months, under the radar.

Some time late last year, parabellum asked:

"May I humbly suggest some additional services which you may wish to consider offering?

Simple plexi cases: If you offered a 'bolt it together yourself' case made from laser cut plexi, you could supply these with the screws, etc....and I think there would potentially be great demand for this. If the price could be kept down to around $50-$60, I think it would be a winner."

That suggestion has stuck with me and I haven't stopped thinking about it. Since working with plexiglass (acrylic) has its limitations, it took me some time to come up with a solution. Many months and lots of trial and errors later, finally... I believe I've found the solution and I bring you a completely modifiable DIY full acrylic case!

This case was designed with you, the modder, in mind with the ability to customize pretty much every aspect of the case... to make it your own! So lets take all these pieces...



And turn them into this! (Might be a tad hard to make out all the details at first, being that everything's clear and there's a lot of reflection in the pics. But the details will be more prominent as you scroll further down.







Lets look at one of the unique things to personalize your case. The Name plates!





The Name Plates act as extra support for the case, and it's a great place to cut your name/handle/short phrase to really identify your case. These are "Cut" through the acrylic, not "etched".

Now it's a little hard to see, with everything being clear, but on the back of the case there is a PCB section which has a couple of PCB holders and a wire hook to help with PCB placement and organization.



These holders can be adjusted/removed to fit your needs. While initially designed to fit the cthulhu boards, they can still hold hacked pads and other pcb's by a simple ziptie method or whatever you come up with. You don't have to use them, but they are there to help you out if you want them.



Here are some pics with a JLF and some buttons in place .










The pics above only show a glimpse of what can be done. Let me try to get into more details and options with more pics .

Lets say you want to replace the front panel now because you prefer a Neutrik Adapter rather than a cord opening. No problem, lets take a front panel with a Neutrik space...



now unscrew the four screws holding the front panel of the case...



place the buttons and Neutrik adapter on the new panel and screw back in...



and Done!




Or decided you no longer want buttons on the side panel? No prob, swap it.



Yep, it's that easy to change your mind.


Now lets look at some color options. Here's a Dark Blue theme.

Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Dark Blue
Name Plate & PCB Plate = Transparent Dark Blue
Front Panel = Clear; S/S Buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Clear
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Dark Blue
Bottom = Clear
JLF Mount = Transparent Dark Blue



The colors help distinguish some parts a little better, for instance the border design.







Lets try an Iron Man theme

Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Red
Name Plate & PCB plate = Transparent Red
Front Panel = Fluorescent Orange; S/S buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Fluorescent Orange
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Red
Bottom = Clear
Bottom Thin Plexi with 2 Artworks (one facing each side)
JLF Mount = Transparent Red

This shows Artwork placed on the bottom but facing top side to add a little background to future wiring. A thin bottom plexi is used to sandwich the artwork in place





The Fluorescent Orange reflected the flash so the front couldn't be seen. Below is without flash (ugly color turnout) but at least shows the Name Plate. Under regular light, you can see through to notice the name plate.



Flipping the case around, there's another artwork. Basically I place two artworks between a thin bottom plexi.



Here are some pics without the artwork so the design is more clear.






Here's some closeups of the Name Plates in these examples:





View of the case frames. Showing Borders, Name Plate, and PCB Plate which forms the skeletal structure of the case.





Those are just some basic color combinations. But basically, the color combinations and setups are up to your imagination? and what color/material stock I can get, lol.


Oh and top artwork you ask? But of course! Optional thin top plexi's will be available.





The artwork is cut a little smaller than the full top of the case. This gives a natural border, particularly for dark and opaque top colors. For clear tops, this makes the artwork look like it's floating in a frame.



Gotta show the popular Chun Li artwork by Stanley Lau.








Taking this even one step further, how about thin plexi options all around the case which essentially allows you to turn the entire case into swappable artwork.


Lets say I wanted to give my entire case a carbon fiber look with a high res print of a carbon fiber pattern. Then cut the image for the top and all four sides. Sandwich all pieces to all sides and...







Obviously a full artwork case swap is all up to your imagination. I plan to make one with a large cast of either Marvel or SSF4 all around the sides.


Alright, almost done. Sorry if I'm tiring you out with all the pics, lol.

Here's my working, complete prototype from about a month ago. A few minor changes were made since these pics. (Fluorescent Orange Border, Name Plate, PCB Plate and Left/Right Sides. Using a salvaged 360 TE PCB)








Here's probably a better closeup of the PCB holders and wire hook in action. Just using zip ties to keep them in place.




And last, but not least, here are what I call "Side Decors". Here's a sample of Acrylic shapes that can be screwed on to the side panels to further express yourself.




They will come in pairs so you can apply them corner to corner, or a piece per side. Or use two sets and have them corner to corner on opposite sides.



Apply them anywhere on the sides of the case, where room permits. Obviously if the area has buttons, these won't fit that area.



Other Side Decor colors and shapes will be made available.


Finally, those are all the pics I have so far . I will post more pics of other various colors when I have time. (I want to take pics of the lighter colors, and when I restock Fluorescent Blue. Also with opaque colors, and etching samples).

Here are some more highlights and details:

* Size: L 13 1/2" x W 8 1/2" x H 2 1/4". Height is about 2 1/2" with feet.

* Weight: Just case is 2.35 lbs; With JLF, Buttons and TE PCB is about 3.5 lbs (will obviously vary)
* Everything is put together by screws and what I call "Diamond Joints". There is absolutely no "gluing" or acrylic bonding agents needed.

* Because no permanent bonding is used, all parts can be easily swapped and changed to fit your style. Also, if by some unfortunate accident a part of the case gets damaged, you can simply replace the damaged part with a new one rather than worrying about replacing the entire case.

* Your personal Name Plate, cut with a short text of your choice. Not etched, actual cut through the acrylic.

* Top and Bottom panels are extended out past the rectangular outline of the case with rounded corners. This prevents issues with sharp corners.

* Popular button configurations will be available (ie: Vewlix, Blast City, T5, Midway, Capcom, etc).

* Various button options for the left/right side panels, as well as front panel including neutrik setup.

* Most parts will have etching options.

* Thin plexi and Artwork options available for top, bottom and sides.

* All pieces (except for diamond joints) are made with 1/8" acrylic so more colors can be available. (Majority of colors are more readily available in 1/8" thickness)

* PCB holders and wire loops to help with PCB and Wire organization.

So that's it for now. Hope you guys are excited as I am . I will showcase more on etching and other color combos when I get a chance. I will be working on an instructional video to show how everything is put together. Hopefully I'll get that up within a week or two.

I have also asked a few experienced modders to be testers and when they get the first cases they can share their personal experiences. But from my personal experience, and one other's, the results have been great!

Thanks again for everyone's support . And shout out to parabellum, where ever you are buddy, thanks for giving me a challenge .

Got Questions? Look at the bottom post first.

good tower for 500 usd

July 6, 2017, 6:35 am

≫ Next: TE2+ Connectivity Problem

≪ Previous: Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases.

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instead of buying a ps4 t play 2 games i want, i think it would be best to just get a pc, so i can download certain other fighters. i only play fighting games. i want tekken 7 badly, and it seems everyone i seem to ask are elitist lame asses. who just say what i'm thinking of buying is crap. vs actually telling me what would be best for my buck. i really don't get why certain people are such cock faces when they are able to be behind a screen.


anyways where do you think would be the best place to get a desktop tower for around 500? i was looking at amazon, idk if i trust ebay. 500 is alot to get something and get fucked over :(

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TE2+ Connectivity Problem

July 23, 2017, 8:24 pm

≫ Next: Brook PS4+ Audio Fighting Board Thread

≪ Previous: good tower for 500 usd

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My arcade stick has started going unresponsive and getting stuck on lock or unlock with buttons working. When I pull the USB out of the port on my PS4 and out it back in it recognizes it. I will have to press the PS button and confirm. But as soon as an online match starts or even if I fix It and still get to play, it will freeze up and not work. I think it's the USB but I'm trying to get the solution because I'm losing to people I normally wouldn't and dont even want to play until this is taken care. C does anyone have a solution? Thanks

Brook PS4+ Audio Fighting Board Thread

November 15, 2016, 6:44 pm

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≪ Previous: TE2+ Connectivity Problem

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Hey everyone,

Brook sent out a new prototype PCB for me to test out. It's similar in function to the original small PS3/PS4 Fighting Board with the addition of sound and a new form factor. It's a great solution for those looking for plug & play PS4 & PC functionality without all the extra console compatibility (and extra cost) of the Universal Fighting Board.



Features:
•Plug & Play PS3/PS4/PC (XINPUT)
•3.5mm jack for headphone and mic support (supports game audio and mic input)
•Micro USB Jack
•Additional access to Turbo, LEDs, SOCD, Touch Pad, Analogs, & 20pin connector for inputs.
•Screw Terminals for easy wire connections
•Same size as UFB
•Same low latency performance as previous Brook PCBs



Pinout:
J1 : USB Port to PS3/PS4/PC[X-input]
J2 : Player LED
J3 : Screw terminal to connect with inputting buttons
J4 : external port to connect with inputting buttons
J5 : Left and Right Analog Stick
J6 : Touch panel
J7 : Turbo function (Key and LED)
J11 : 3.5mm Phone Jack
J12 : Select Stick to map LS/DP/RS
J14 : Enable/Disable Left and Right Analog Stick
J15 : Enable/Disable SOCD function

@gogo.zippy has informed me that they are already in talks with distribution channels. Release date & pricing will be announced shortly.

Here's a first look of the PCB and a install into a PS3 SF x Tekken Madcatz VS Stick:



Huge thanks to the folks at Brook & @Vicko for the tips with the install!

- Jonyfraze

Madcatz TES+ SFV Shadoloo Mod

May 9, 2016, 1:14 pm

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Hey everyone!
Can any of you guys please tell me if the Hayabusa Joystick will fit inside of my Madcatz SFV Shadoloo TES+ ? I want to swap my Sanwa JFL with Hori's (Don't get me wrong, I think Sanwa is great but I've been itching to try the Hayabusa lever for a while due to it's positive feedback). If it doesn't fit, what modding will I have to go trough in order to do so? I have been hitting my head against the wall with this one and haven't found anything on the internet.

Thanks!

Xbox to PS4 voice chat

July 25, 2017, 5:26 pm

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I don't know if I'm posting in the right place. I just bought a Xbox one controller to PS4 converter. I want to use my Xbox controller and I know voice chat doesn't work but my question is, I have Astro A40 headsets that are plugged into the PS4 via USB and optical audio with a mixamp. Will still be able to voice chat since I'm not plugging into my controller? Please let me know if I'm posting in the wrong place and where I should post if so. Thanks for any replies.

Looking to replace JLF on my TE2+

July 26, 2017, 2:31 am

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Im finding the distance I need to move the stick to dash and korean backdash is way too big. Sometimes Im pressing forward/back again before the stick has gone back to neutral and it causes me to fail my dash.

I heard the Seimetsu 56-01 stick had a very short throw distance o was considering this but some people are even saying its TOO twitchy. So Im looking for reccomendations.

Currently playing Akuma on tekken 7. Have about 80-100 hours of total play time since getting this stick.