Got a Ps360+ for my mad catz Tournament Edition S - Black so i wouldn't need to buy a new stick for ps4, but can't get it work on ps3,4 or pc, nothing happens on the consoles but on pc it shows up as unknown device at least... I kept and soldered the USB that came with the stick on the ps360+ I have tried useing two different USB A + B one really short and a two meter one, the only thing that happens when I connect the stick is that the leds flash up once on the pcb, then nothing. I have checked so all the cables have connection, so I don't think its a wireing problem. Have used usb 2.0 and 3.0 as well an intern usb pci card and external usb hub, but it only shows up as unknown device. And i got xbox360 controll drivers installed as well. Any idea what I could try next?
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PS360+ wont work, unknown device detection problem
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Mad Catz LED PCB install Guide
Its really simple, but finding the header was not clear. Tried to make this as user friendly as possible
Link: https://youtu.be/KKHNUNtcyJY
![HWXLKRyh.png]()
Link: https://youtu.be/KKHNUNtcyJY
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Should I "Update" my fightstick
Hey guys, I have a Madcatz PS3 TE2 Fightstick. The problem I have is that it is of the older generation I believe. It requires that I have a special adapter for it to be playable on my PC which is the VIA 1.1 USB adapter. I was wondering how I would be able to upgrade it so that I don't have to rely on a hardware. It can definitely be a problem if I was to go to a friends place and not be able to use it.
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Mad Katz Street Fighter X Tekken Stick
Hi is this useable on SFV for PS4?? Thanks
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FGW Converter Thread - Roll your own converters
Since On-The-Fly remapping has been implemented, I figured it was time for the FGW Converter to get its own thread.
Welcome Sheet: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/converterwelcome2.pdf
Q: What is it?
A: The FGWidget converter is a small micro-controller based circuit board that reads the status of a connected PlayStation, Super Nintendo, or Sega Saturn board. Based on the buttons or directions pressed on the controller, matching pins on the converter will either drop to a low output voltage (if the matching button or direction is pressed on the controller), or to a high impedance with pull up resistor state (if the matching button or direction is not pressed on the controller). This output from the converter can be connected directly to a female Neo-Geo connector, or used in conjunction with any common ground controller board. As an example, this board can be used to make your own PSX->NeoGeo converter, or used with an MC Cthulhu board to make your own SNES->PS3 converter, or with a common ground Xbox360 controller board to make your own Saturn->Xbox360 converter.
Q: Wait, I though this controlled LEDs?
A: No, that's the FGW LED Controller. The 'FGW' in the front is short for 'Fighting Game Widget', meaning its a small, cheap, Atmel controlled device. From a hardware standpoint, they are very similar, but the code on the two chips is WAY different. So, FGW LED Controller controls LEDs. FGW Converter is for making your own converters.
Q: Is it easy to use?
A: NO! Proper setup of an FGW Converter requires use of a multimeter, soldering iron, and most likely a dremel as well. It only comes in kit form that has to be soldered together. It will require a cord from a sacrificed controller or extension cord, using a multimeter to pin that cord out so you can properly solder it to the board. Using it in a project box will likely require dremelling out spots for the cords and connectors to go. This is a cheap tool meant for experienced tech heads. If you don't consider the work I've listed as fun, I would recommend contacted a tech in the Trading Outlet to bribe them to make the converter you want.
Q: Can it be used with Superguns?
A: Absolutely, it was designed with Superguns in mind.
Q: What's this about button remapping?
A: FGW Converter just had on the fly button remapping implemented. If you ordered your FGW Converter before 9/7/11, yours will NOT have the remapping code in it. All FGW Converters sold after that date will have the button remapping code in it.
Q: How do I do the button remapping?
A: This can get kind of complicated, so I'm gonna put the nuts and bolts into a spoiler tag.
Q: I have a FGW Converter, but it doesn't have the button remapping code. How can I get the button remapping code on my converter?
A: Easy option would be to by a new FGW Converter, pop out the older chip from your current one, and pop the new chip in. There's no option to buy the chip separately, since the chip costs way more than everything else in the kit put together. Next option would be to send me your old chip for me to reprogram it. I'll reprogram it for free, but you will need to ship it to me, and paypal for shipping. That shipping would be $2 for first class mail in the US. Please PM me to setup.
Q: I have a problem with buttons appearing the 'Turbo' on their own, going on and off even though they're held down.
A: Known compatability problem with FGW Converter kits sold in September, October, and November of 2011. Check the question above to get your chip reprogrammed.
Q: My Kitty based stick or MC Cthulhu based stick doesn't work on the FGW Converter using a PSX cable.
A:.Known compatability problem with FGW Converter kits sold in September, October, and November of 2011. Check the question above to get your chip reprogrammed.
More QA's to come.
How to order:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com
Welcome Sheet: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/converterwelcome2.pdf
Q: What is it?
A: The FGWidget converter is a small micro-controller based circuit board that reads the status of a connected PlayStation, Super Nintendo, or Sega Saturn board. Based on the buttons or directions pressed on the controller, matching pins on the converter will either drop to a low output voltage (if the matching button or direction is pressed on the controller), or to a high impedance with pull up resistor state (if the matching button or direction is not pressed on the controller). This output from the converter can be connected directly to a female Neo-Geo connector, or used in conjunction with any common ground controller board. As an example, this board can be used to make your own PSX->NeoGeo converter, or used with an MC Cthulhu board to make your own SNES->PS3 converter, or with a common ground Xbox360 controller board to make your own Saturn->Xbox360 converter.
Q: Wait, I though this controlled LEDs?
A: No, that's the FGW LED Controller. The 'FGW' in the front is short for 'Fighting Game Widget', meaning its a small, cheap, Atmel controlled device. From a hardware standpoint, they are very similar, but the code on the two chips is WAY different. So, FGW LED Controller controls LEDs. FGW Converter is for making your own converters.
Q: Is it easy to use?
A: NO! Proper setup of an FGW Converter requires use of a multimeter, soldering iron, and most likely a dremel as well. It only comes in kit form that has to be soldered together. It will require a cord from a sacrificed controller or extension cord, using a multimeter to pin that cord out so you can properly solder it to the board. Using it in a project box will likely require dremelling out spots for the cords and connectors to go. This is a cheap tool meant for experienced tech heads. If you don't consider the work I've listed as fun, I would recommend contacted a tech in the Trading Outlet to bribe them to make the converter you want.
Q: Can it be used with Superguns?
A: Absolutely, it was designed with Superguns in mind.
Q: What's this about button remapping?
A: FGW Converter just had on the fly button remapping implemented. If you ordered your FGW Converter before 9/7/11, yours will NOT have the remapping code in it. All FGW Converters sold after that date will have the button remapping code in it.
Q: How do I do the button remapping?
A: This can get kind of complicated, so I'm gonna put the nuts and bolts into a spoiler tag.
Spoiler:
Here's the order of the buttons you need to know:
1 - Square
2 - X
3 - Triangle
4 - Circle
5 - R1
6 - R2
7 - L1
8 - L2
You should notice that is the LP, LK, MP, MK, HP, HK, PPP, KKK order of most standard PSX arcade sticks.
To get into button remapping mode, hold down Start and Select on your controller if you are using a PSX or SNES controller, or hold down just Start if you're using a Saturn controller. You'll have to it down for about 10 full seconds. You can move the directional pad or stick during this time, and the directions will stop responding once the buttons have been held down long enough. Once that happens, let go of the buttons, and you're in remapping mode.
Now, your converter is waiting for to tell it what button(s) should activate the Square line, since it's first on the list. Press all of the buttons you want to activate the X line, and release them all. It's important that you have them held down at the same time. Once allof your buttons that activate X have been pressed, release them all. That setting will be saved, and it will then wait for you to tell it what button(s) should activate the next line on the list.
Once all 8 of the buttons have been set, the mapping will be permanently saved to the controller and the controller will return to normal operation.
If you do NOT want a button to activate the current line to set, either press and release Select(PSX, SNES), or hold down all eight buttons (Saturn) and release. That will make sure none of your buttons will activate that line.
1 - Square
2 - X
3 - Triangle
4 - Circle
5 - R1
6 - R2
7 - L1
8 - L2
You should notice that is the LP, LK, MP, MK, HP, HK, PPP, KKK order of most standard PSX arcade sticks.
To get into button remapping mode, hold down Start and Select on your controller if you are using a PSX or SNES controller, or hold down just Start if you're using a Saturn controller. You'll have to it down for about 10 full seconds. You can move the directional pad or stick during this time, and the directions will stop responding once the buttons have been held down long enough. Once that happens, let go of the buttons, and you're in remapping mode.
Now, your converter is waiting for to tell it what button(s) should activate the Square line, since it's first on the list. Press all of the buttons you want to activate the X line, and release them all. It's important that you have them held down at the same time. Once allof your buttons that activate X have been pressed, release them all. That setting will be saved, and it will then wait for you to tell it what button(s) should activate the next line on the list.
Once all 8 of the buttons have been set, the mapping will be permanently saved to the controller and the controller will return to normal operation.
If you do NOT want a button to activate the current line to set, either press and release Select(PSX, SNES), or hold down all eight buttons (Saturn) and release. That will make sure none of your buttons will activate that line.
Q: I have a FGW Converter, but it doesn't have the button remapping code. How can I get the button remapping code on my converter?
A: Easy option would be to by a new FGW Converter, pop out the older chip from your current one, and pop the new chip in. There's no option to buy the chip separately, since the chip costs way more than everything else in the kit put together. Next option would be to send me your old chip for me to reprogram it. I'll reprogram it for free, but you will need to ship it to me, and paypal for shipping. That shipping would be $2 for first class mail in the US. Please PM me to setup.
Q: I have a problem with buttons appearing the 'Turbo' on their own, going on and off even though they're held down.
A: Known compatability problem with FGW Converter kits sold in September, October, and November of 2011. Check the question above to get your chip reprogrammed.
Q: My Kitty based stick or MC Cthulhu based stick doesn't work on the FGW Converter using a PSX cable.
A:.Known compatability problem with FGW Converter kits sold in September, October, and November of 2011. Check the question above to get your chip reprogrammed.
More QA's to come.
How to order:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com
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MAYFLASH XBOX 360 / PS3 / PC Arcade Fighting Stick V2 Compatible with Sanwa Parts out of the box 69$
This is not mine I found it and want more information on it if possible. Plus if its as good as it says it is "too good to be true" maybe spread the word.
Ok Guys I searched all over the site an havnt seen this posted about anywere. So I figured id give a heads up. The Description and box sayes it has a new design "looks better than older universal ps2/3/pc stick" Also is completely drop in ready for sanwa parts and tri mod pcb. All for 69.00$ Thats not bad around WWE Brawl Stick prices without the ugly artwork. It stats it work on xbox 360 without a official control pad being needed. Plus acrylic top panel.
Now i cant seem to find any inside shots to see if it is soldered pcb or quick disconnects "I assume solder". Does anyone out there have anymore information on this thing? I am curiouse if it would be as easy as the wwe brawl stick to mod or if it has insides like the origanel universal fightstick from mayflash. I would assume its diffrent since its stated that sanwa parts drop in but that could only mean holes rather than harness or pcb.
I am thinking of buying it but i know i can mod the brawl stick this one is a mistery i can only go buy product statment.
http://www.amazon.com/MAYFLASH-XBOX-Arcade-Fighting-Stick/dp/B00NOAWLBE/ref=sr_1_268?ie=UTF8&qid=1416748574&sr=8-268&keywords=arcade+stick
This is the Description straight from the product.....
- Compatible with XBOX360, PS3 and PC - Compatible with Sanwa Denshi buttons and joystick that is perfect for customization to make it your very own. (Sanwa Denshi buttons and joystick are not included in the packaging and you need to buy them separately). - No need the original XBOX 360 controller when being used on XBOX 360. - Supports the XINPUT and DINPUT when being used on PC - Supports the Turbo and Macro functions with different speed settings you can toy with - The D-Pad and X/Y Analog Axis mode can be exchanged - Supports the vibration function. A sole customized wrist strap makes you feel the real vibration. - Supports the AUDIO/MIC function. - NO cheap plastic toy! Two pieces of metal panels (metal cover and metal base) increases the fighting stick's weight for a solid, secure feel. - The beautiful and strong acrylic top panel for the easy customization - The lever and buttons are designed and placed on same layout as the arcade style. - The Fighting Stick has considerable heft and rubber feet, both of which work to hold the controller firmly in place on hard, flat surfaces. - A dedicated storage case to store the 9.8ft/3m USB cable. - Compatible with Windows XP/Vista/Windows 7/ Windows 8 and Mac OS
Ok Guys I searched all over the site an havnt seen this posted about anywere. So I figured id give a heads up. The Description and box sayes it has a new design "looks better than older universal ps2/3/pc stick" Also is completely drop in ready for sanwa parts and tri mod pcb. All for 69.00$ Thats not bad around WWE Brawl Stick prices without the ugly artwork. It stats it work on xbox 360 without a official control pad being needed. Plus acrylic top panel.
Now i cant seem to find any inside shots to see if it is soldered pcb or quick disconnects "I assume solder". Does anyone out there have anymore information on this thing? I am curiouse if it would be as easy as the wwe brawl stick to mod or if it has insides like the origanel universal fightstick from mayflash. I would assume its diffrent since its stated that sanwa parts drop in but that could only mean holes rather than harness or pcb.
I am thinking of buying it but i know i can mod the brawl stick this one is a mistery i can only go buy product statment.
http://www.amazon.com/MAYFLASH-XBOX-Arcade-Fighting-Stick/dp/B00NOAWLBE/ref=sr_1_268?ie=UTF8&qid=1416748574&sr=8-268&keywords=arcade+stick
This is the Description straight from the product.....
- Compatible with XBOX360, PS3 and PC - Compatible with Sanwa Denshi buttons and joystick that is perfect for customization to make it your very own. (Sanwa Denshi buttons and joystick are not included in the packaging and you need to buy them separately). - No need the original XBOX 360 controller when being used on XBOX 360. - Supports the XINPUT and DINPUT when being used on PC - Supports the Turbo and Macro functions with different speed settings you can toy with - The D-Pad and X/Y Analog Axis mode can be exchanged - Supports the vibration function. A sole customized wrist strap makes you feel the real vibration. - Supports the AUDIO/MIC function. - NO cheap plastic toy! Two pieces of metal panels (metal cover and metal base) increases the fighting stick's weight for a solid, secure feel. - The beautiful and strong acrylic top panel for the easy customization - The lever and buttons are designed and placed on same layout as the arcade style. - The Fighting Stick has considerable heft and rubber feet, both of which work to hold the controller firmly in place on hard, flat surfaces. - A dedicated storage case to store the 9.8ft/3m USB cable. - Compatible with Windows XP/Vista/Windows 7/ Windows 8 and Mac OS
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having joystick issues
I have only used fighstick for 2 years now. my execution is still not good. I used the jlf for about a month upgraded to the 2lb spring and kowal. i loved the spring but the kowal seems to make way to many errors it could be my sloppy excution. i bought a hori haybusa i fell in love with it the gate on it the corners are deeper. slapped a 2lb spring and spent most of my time on it went back to the jlf with kowal and for what ever reason the 2lb dont seem as tight maybe i grown used to the feel. but still the 1.0 kowal is just been awful for my excution. should i try a .5 kowal on the jlf go back to stock and just use the 2lb? i tried going back to the default spring but i just hate it. i have a ls 56 spring even tho it dont fit on my jlf or hori unless i cut some of it off. should i try a 32 or 33 ls spring or should i try a 3 spring too
i don't know what to think or do anymore
i don't know what to think or do anymore
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Question about a mod I made to my Madcatz TE stick....
I have the 360 version of the TE stick, but I remember I bought a mod from Lizard Lick, among other things, and it allowed me to play it on a PS3 as well. The problem now is, I forgot what I needed to do, if anything, to be able to switch from 360 to PS3 mode. Now I can play it fine on the 360, but I was going to see if it worked on my PS4 but I am not expecting it to.
Does anyone know how to go between modes? Thanks a ton!
Does anyone know how to go between modes? Thanks a ton!
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how am i going to remove the wires off this ?
notice no tabs or anything to push its literally just flat? ![64hyxw.jpg]()
i have 2 other atroxs next to mine and me and my boys are puzzled were about to just throw it away.
i have 2 other atroxs next to mine and me and my boys are puzzled were about to just throw it away.
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Hori Fighting Commander (PS3/PS4/PC Xinput) / Fighting Stick Mini 4 with Hayabusa-like joystick?!
Looks like revision of the FC4, makes the shape symmetrical for both hands, removes d-pad rotation feature.
the coolest part in my opinion is how it uses Xinput for PC (is that new? i'm not sure if FC4 also did xinput).
article source:
http://game.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/news/20151107_729459.html
"Hayabusa" stick also shown
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madcatz te, tes+, te2, te2+
hi guys, these arcade sticks have big difference in price, Why? Which difference they have?
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Third party PS4 padhack options
If my DS4 padhack thread scared you from padhacking the official sony dual shock 4 controller then your in luck... sorta. There are currently two third party pads at the moment that are usable in adding ps4 support. Those being the Hori Fighting Commander 4 and the Guilty Gear pad. Now while they are both very easy to padhack the only downside to them is obtaining them is not as easy as getting a DS4 pad.
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Is it possible for a fight stick to lag?
I swear, mine lags the inputs, or mashes out something random.
Are there problems like this?
I have a Shitty Madcatz, basic stick, but have sanwa buttons and Semitsu... but I swear to god... sometimes I just input simple dp and it mashes out something crazy, or doesn't do anything at all..
I know i know.. look at my inputs... and muscle memory, I have, and I swear something is wrong here.
Are there problems like this?
I have a Shitty Madcatz, basic stick, but have sanwa buttons and Semitsu... but I swear to god... sometimes I just input simple dp and it mashes out something crazy, or doesn't do anything at all..
I know i know.. look at my inputs... and muscle memory, I have, and I swear something is wrong here.
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How Many Arcade Sticks Do You Own
I'm considering buying my 3rd arcade stick. I think its kinda silly to own more than one arcade stick, but I just can't help myself. I just want to collect the best looking arcade sticks. How many fightsticks/arcade sticks do you own? Which one is your favorite? I personally like the Mad Catz Pro stick because of the arm rests.
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Help modding a Qanba Q2Glow to work on PS4
So I am looking to mod my Qanba Q2 Glow EVO edition stick and I actually have a few questions about modding my stick in order for it to work with the PS4. I already understand that I'd have to purchase a PCB that supports the console natively like the Brook PS3/PS4 PCB, or the Brook Universal Fighting Board. Buuuuut...
My issue with the stick is not just getting it to work on the PS4, but to also get the LED buttons (and maybe stick) to work along with it. I'm not really asking for programmable RGB LED buttons, I just want the buttons (and maybe stick) to light up when I press it.
I was wondering if anyone could help me out on how the whole process can be done while retaining the same buttons and LEDs. Here's an imgur album that has a couple of photos of the inside of the stick itself if it helps: http://imgur.com/a/xTE5n
Of course the idea is to spend as little money as needed while also making this project as simple as I can for myself. I'm not very experienced with electronics itself. I was thinking about making the original PCB be just for the LED functions of the buttons (basically turning the old PCB into an LED controller). Since the LEDs itself are independent from the button it relies on the PCB to tell it what to do. At least that's what I think it does. It's very interesting since the button and LEDs both have a separate connector, but in the end lead to the same connector on the PCB. Here's a small diagram of the button and LED wiring: http://imgur.com/2FbJCQJ
Based off that, here's an image of how I would assume the layout would work for one button: http://imgur.com/IH0hMAc. The problem now is how do I power both of the PCBs.
Can anyone tell me if I am on the right path and let me know if there is a flaw with my reasoning?
My issue with the stick is not just getting it to work on the PS4, but to also get the LED buttons (and maybe stick) to work along with it. I'm not really asking for programmable RGB LED buttons, I just want the buttons (and maybe stick) to light up when I press it.
I was wondering if anyone could help me out on how the whole process can be done while retaining the same buttons and LEDs. Here's an imgur album that has a couple of photos of the inside of the stick itself if it helps: http://imgur.com/a/xTE5n
Of course the idea is to spend as little money as needed while also making this project as simple as I can for myself. I'm not very experienced with electronics itself. I was thinking about making the original PCB be just for the LED functions of the buttons (basically turning the old PCB into an LED controller). Since the LEDs itself are independent from the button it relies on the PCB to tell it what to do. At least that's what I think it does. It's very interesting since the button and LEDs both have a separate connector, but in the end lead to the same connector on the PCB. Here's a small diagram of the button and LED wiring: http://imgur.com/2FbJCQJ
Based off that, here's an image of how I would assume the layout would work for one button: http://imgur.com/IH0hMAc. The problem now is how do I power both of the PCBs.
Can anyone tell me if I am on the right path and let me know if there is a flaw with my reasoning?
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Building my first fight stick, SUCCESS!!
Well, it all started with a dream lol. Nah I'm just kidding. Anyways, took a lot of work and research to get this project done and I must say that I had a blast doing it. Mainly cause I got it all right on the first try and didn't have to scrap anything.
Started with cutting the wood, drilling some of the holes and then gluing it together to make the box:
![128.jpg]()
![130.jpg]()
![131.jpg]()
Once it was glued, I cut the MDF board to fit, then stained it and put a polyurethane finish on it for the gloss:
![133.jpg]()
![135.jpg]()
![146.jpg]()
![148.jpg]()
Once that was done, I was able to put the plexi glass on top and make the holes for the buttons and joystick. Forgot to take a pic of what it looked like after making room for the stick:
![149.jpg]()
![150.jpg]()
Then off to my first soldering/wiring job ever:
![156.jpg]()
![157.jpg]()
And finally, the finished product:
![158.jpg]()
![151.jpg]()
![152.jpg]()
It was a total blast putting this thing together. To anyone with some wood working skills and general common sense and the ability to follow instructions to a T, if you are having doubts about putting something like this together I say go for it!!
List of much deserved thank you's:
rtdzign for your awesome guides and for taking the time to answer my numerous PM's
Toodles for also taking the time out to answer my questions in PM's and in threads
bafiaris13 for all your help, ideas and support
List of not so many thanks:
ecKsniNe for never answering a single PM or question, thank you. Much love
Started with cutting the wood, drilling some of the holes and then gluing it together to make the box:
Once it was glued, I cut the MDF board to fit, then stained it and put a polyurethane finish on it for the gloss:
Once that was done, I was able to put the plexi glass on top and make the holes for the buttons and joystick. Forgot to take a pic of what it looked like after making room for the stick:
Then off to my first soldering/wiring job ever:
And finally, the finished product:
It was a total blast putting this thing together. To anyone with some wood working skills and general common sense and the ability to follow instructions to a T, if you are having doubts about putting something like this together I say go for it!!
List of much deserved thank you's:
rtdzign for your awesome guides and for taking the time to answer my numerous PM's
Toodles for also taking the time out to answer my questions in PM's and in threads
bafiaris13 for all your help, ideas and support
List of not so many thanks:
ecKsniNe for never answering a single PM or question, thank you. Much love
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Nw arcadestick is it Nice?
Not sure where to post this i think its should be here? Any ways, i bought the hori real arcade pro 4 kai is this any good compared to thr te2 is it not far behind?
Also replacing the stick to sanwa does it need a jst xh female cable or is it already included with my stick? Cause it has hayabusa
Also replacing the stick to sanwa does it need a jst xh female cable or is it already included with my stick? Cause it has hayabusa
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Sega Stick Appreciation Thread!
We have the Namco thread and the Konami thread, but why not a Sega one???
Lets show some appreciation Gents.... Whether it be an HSS, VSHG, or any other Sega Stick, lets show some love.....
Heres my Freshly modded HSS-0130, currently has 2 DB25 Breakour boards with DB25 cables out the back to be run to Project Boxes.
![download.jpg]()
Everything fit perfectly insode this stick with no modifications needed. This is without a Doubt, the best stick I have ever owned. I took out the stock Panel (Keeping it in case I ever decide to sell this masterpiece) and dropped in a spare Seimitsu Panel I had. This panel has LS32's and Sanwa OSBF Buttons. This thing plays like a DREAM.
Lets show some appreciation Gents.... Whether it be an HSS, VSHG, or any other Sega Stick, lets show some love.....
Heres my Freshly modded HSS-0130, currently has 2 DB25 Breakour boards with DB25 cables out the back to be run to Project Boxes.
Everything fit perfectly insode this stick with no modifications needed. This is without a Doubt, the best stick I have ever owned. I took out the stock Panel (Keeping it in case I ever decide to sell this masterpiece) and dropped in a spare Seimitsu Panel I had. This panel has LS32's and Sanwa OSBF Buttons. This thing plays like a DREAM.
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Madcatz Street Fighter V FightPad PRO ready for pre-order
store.madcatz.com/Street-Fighter-5-FightPad-PRO-for-PS4-PS3.html#spec-div
The final iteration of the SFV game pad by madcatz is available for pre-orders now.
It used to look like this:
![MadCatz_FightPad_PRO.png]()
Now, it looks like this:
![SFV89250-FightPad-PS4-Ryu-001_lg.jpg]()
:::EDIT:::
Here it is in action:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=cIIiZyjDLms
https://youtube.com/watch?v=915M247tepI
The final iteration of the SFV game pad by madcatz is available for pre-orders now.
It used to look like this:
Now, it looks like this:
:::EDIT:::
Here it is in action:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=cIIiZyjDLms
https://youtube.com/watch?v=915M247tepI
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Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases.
Cases are now available on my site: Art's Hobbies
!!! 3/27/11 NEW Updates regarding Diamond Joints and Hitbox! Jump to post #702
LOTS OF INFO AND TONS OF PICS INCOMING!
***** PLEASE CHECK THE 2ND POST OF THIS THREAD FOR Q&A and FUTURE UPDATES . READ THAT FIRST IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS IN CASE YOUR QUESTION IS ALREADY ANSWERED! I WILL NO LONGER ANSWER QUESTIONS THAT ARE ALREADY ADDRESSED IN THAT POST. Please just take a moment to read the info...
These cases will be available on my website, Welcome to Art's Hobbies, in early September.
These are Cases ONLY. Not full fightsticks. Joysticks, Buttons, PCBs are not included
Hey guys! I would like to reveal a project I've been working on for the past few months, under the radar.
Some time late last year, parabellum asked:
"May I humbly suggest some additional services which you may wish to consider offering?
Simple plexi cases: If you offered a 'bolt it together yourself' case made from laser cut plexi, you could supply these with the screws, etc....and I think there would potentially be great demand for this. If the price could be kept down to around $50-$60, I think it would be a winner."
That suggestion has stuck with me and I haven't stopped thinking about it. Since working with plexiglass (acrylic) has its limitations, it took me some time to come up with a solution. Many months and lots of trial and errors later, finally... I believe I've found the solution and I bring you a completely modifiable DIY full acrylic case!
This case was designed with you, the modder, in mind with the ability to customize pretty much every aspect of the case... to make it your own! So lets take all these pieces...
![pieces.jpg]()
And turn them into this! (Might be a tad hard to make out all the details at first, being that everything's clear and there's a lot of reflection in the pics. But the details will be more prominent as you scroll further down.
![case1.jpg]()
![case2.jpg]()
![case5.jpg]()
Lets look at one of the unique things to personalize your case. The Name plates!
![case3.jpg]()
![case4.jpg]()
The Name Plates act as extra support for the case, and it's a great place to cut your name/handle/short phrase to really identify your case. These are "Cut" through the acrylic, not "etched".
Now it's a little hard to see, with everything being clear, but on the back of the case there is a PCB section which has a couple of PCB holders and a wire hook to help with PCB placement and organization.
![pcb1.jpg]()
These holders can be adjusted/removed to fit your needs. While initially designed to fit the cthulhu boards, they can still hold hacked pads and other pcb's by a simple ziptie method or whatever you come up with. You don't have to use them, but they are there to help you out if you want them.
![pcb2.jpg]()
Here are some pics with a JLF and some buttons in place .
![casebut1.jpg]()
![casebut2.jpg]()
![casebut3.jpg]()
![casebut4.jpg]()
The pics above only show a glimpse of what can be done. Let me try to get into more details and options with more pics![=)]( "=)")
.
Lets say you want to replace the front panel now because you prefer a Neutrik Adapter rather than a cord opening. No problem, lets take a front panel with a Neutrik space...
![replace1.jpg]()
now unscrew the four screws holding the front panel of the case...
![replace2.jpg]()
place the buttons and Neutrik adapter on the new panel and screw back in...
![replace3.jpg]()
and Done!
![replace4.jpg]()
Or decided you no longer want buttons on the side panel? No prob, swap it.
![replace6.jpg]()
Yep, it's that easy to change your mind.
Now lets look at some color options. Here's a Dark Blue theme.
Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Dark Blue
Name Plate & PCB Plate = Transparent Dark Blue
Front Panel = Clear; S/S Buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Clear
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Dark Blue
Bottom = Clear
JLF Mount = Transparent Dark Blue
![blue1.jpg]()
The colors help distinguish some parts a little better, for instance the border design.
![blue2.jpg]()
![blue3.jpg]()
![blue4.jpg]()
Lets try an Iron Man theme
Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Red
Name Plate & PCB plate = Transparent Red
Front Panel = Fluorescent Orange; S/S buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Fluorescent Orange
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Red
Bottom = Clear
Bottom Thin Plexi with 2 Artworks (one facing each side)
JLF Mount = Transparent Red
This shows Artwork placed on the bottom but facing top side to add a little background to future wiring. A thin bottom plexi is used to sandwich the artwork in place
![im1.jpg]()
![im2.jpg]()
The Fluorescent Orange reflected the flash so the front couldn't be seen. Below is without flash (ugly color turnout) but at least shows the Name Plate. Under regular light, you can see through to notice the name plate.
![im2b.jpg]()
Flipping the case around, there's another artwork. Basically I place two artworks between a thin bottom plexi.
![im3.jpg]()
Here are some pics without the artwork so the design is more clear.
![im4.jpg]()
![im5.jpg]()
Here's some closeups of the Name Plates in these examples:
![nameplate1.jpg]()
![nameplate2.jpg]()
View of the case frames. Showing Borders, Name Plate, and PCB Plate which forms the skeletal structure of the case.
![frames1.jpg]()
![frames2.jpg]()
Those are just some basic color combinations. But basically, the color combinations and setups are up to your imagination? and what color/material stock I can get, lol.
Oh and top artwork you ask? But of course! Optional thin top plexi's will be available.
![art1.jpg]()
![art2.jpg]()
The artwork is cut a little smaller than the full top of the case. This gives a natural border, particularly for dark and opaque top colors. For clear tops, this makes the artwork look like it's floating in a frame.
![art3.jpg]()
Gotta show the popular Chun Li artwork by Stanley Lau.
![chun1.jpg]()
![chun2.jpg]()
![chun3.jpg]()
Taking this even one step further, how about thin plexi options all around the case which essentially allows you to turn the entire case into swappable artwork.
Lets say I wanted to give my entire case a carbon fiber look with a high res print of a carbon fiber pattern. Then cut the image for the top and all four sides. Sandwich all pieces to all sides and...
![carbon1.jpg]()
![carbon2.jpg]()
![carbon3.jpg]()
Obviously a full artwork case swap is all up to your imagination. I plan to make one with a large cast of either Marvel or SSF4 all around the sides.
Alright, almost done. Sorry if I'm tiring you out with all the pics, lol.
Here's my working, complete prototype from about a month ago. A few minor changes were made since these pics. (Fluorescent Orange Border, Name Plate, PCB Plate and Left/Right Sides. Using a salvaged 360 TE PCB)
![proto1.jpg]()
![proto2.jpg]()
![proto3.jpg]()
Here's probably a better closeup of the PCB holders and wire hook in action. Just using zip ties to keep them in place.
![proto4.jpg]()
And last, but not least, here are what I call "Side Decors". Here's a sample of Acrylic shapes that can be screwed on to the side panels to further express yourself.
![sidedecor1.jpg]()
They will come in pairs so you can apply them corner to corner, or a piece per side. Or use two sets and have them corner to corner on opposite sides.
![sidedecor2.jpg]()
Apply them anywhere on the sides of the case, where room permits. Obviously if the area has buttons, these won't fit that area.
![sidedecor3.jpg]()
Other Side Decor colors and shapes will be made available.
Finally, those are all the pics I have so far![=)]( "=)")
. I will post more pics of other various colors when I have time. (I want to take pics of the lighter colors, and when I restock Fluorescent Blue. Also with opaque colors, and etching samples).
Here are some more highlights and details:
* Size: L 13 1/2" x W 8 1/2" x H 2 1/4". Height is about 2 1/2" with feet.
* Weight: Just case is 2.35 lbs; With JLF, Buttons and TE PCB is about 3.5 lbs (will obviously vary)
* Everything is put together by screws and what I call "Diamond Joints". There is absolutely no "gluing" or acrylic bonding agents needed.
* Because no permanent bonding is used, all parts can be easily swapped and changed to fit your style. Also, if by some unfortunate accident a part of the case gets damaged, you can simply replace the damaged part with a new one rather than worrying about replacing the entire case.
* Your personal Name Plate, cut with a short text of your choice. Not etched, actual cut through the acrylic.
* Top and Bottom panels are extended out past the rectangular outline of the case with rounded corners. This prevents issues with sharp corners.
* Popular button configurations will be available (ie: Vewlix, Blast City, T5, Midway, Capcom, etc).
* Various button options for the left/right side panels, as well as front panel including neutrik setup.
* Most parts will have etching options.
* Thin plexi and Artwork options available for top, bottom and sides.
* All pieces (except for diamond joints) are made with 1/8" acrylic so more colors can be available. (Majority of colors are more readily available in 1/8" thickness)
* PCB holders and wire loops to help with PCB and Wire organization.
So that's it for now. Hope you guys are excited as I am![=)]( "=)")
. I will showcase more on etching and other color combos when I get a chance. I will be working on an instructional video to show how everything is put together. Hopefully I'll get that up within a week or two.
I have also asked a few experienced modders to be testers and when they get the first cases they can share their personal experiences. But from my personal experience, and one other's, the results have been great!
Thanks again for everyone's support![=)]( "=)")
. And shout out to parabellum, where ever you are buddy, thanks for giving me a challenge ![;)]( ";)")
.
Got Questions? Look at the bottom post first.
![display1.jpg]()
!!! 3/27/11 NEW Updates regarding Diamond Joints and Hitbox! Jump to post #702
LOTS OF INFO AND TONS OF PICS INCOMING!
***** PLEASE CHECK THE 2ND POST OF THIS THREAD FOR Q&A and FUTURE UPDATES . READ THAT FIRST IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS IN CASE YOUR QUESTION IS ALREADY ANSWERED! I WILL NO LONGER ANSWER QUESTIONS THAT ARE ALREADY ADDRESSED IN THAT POST. Please just take a moment to read the info...
These cases will be available on my website, Welcome to Art's Hobbies, in early September.
These are Cases ONLY. Not full fightsticks. Joysticks, Buttons, PCBs are not included
Hey guys! I would like to reveal a project I've been working on for the past few months, under the radar.
Some time late last year, parabellum asked:
"May I humbly suggest some additional services which you may wish to consider offering?
Simple plexi cases: If you offered a 'bolt it together yourself' case made from laser cut plexi, you could supply these with the screws, etc....and I think there would potentially be great demand for this. If the price could be kept down to around $50-$60, I think it would be a winner."
That suggestion has stuck with me and I haven't stopped thinking about it. Since working with plexiglass (acrylic) has its limitations, it took me some time to come up with a solution. Many months and lots of trial and errors later, finally... I believe I've found the solution and I bring you a completely modifiable DIY full acrylic case!
This case was designed with you, the modder, in mind with the ability to customize pretty much every aspect of the case... to make it your own! So lets take all these pieces...
And turn them into this! (Might be a tad hard to make out all the details at first, being that everything's clear and there's a lot of reflection in the pics. But the details will be more prominent as you scroll further down.
Lets look at one of the unique things to personalize your case. The Name plates!
The Name Plates act as extra support for the case, and it's a great place to cut your name/handle/short phrase to really identify your case. These are "Cut" through the acrylic, not "etched".
Now it's a little hard to see, with everything being clear, but on the back of the case there is a PCB section which has a couple of PCB holders and a wire hook to help with PCB placement and organization.
These holders can be adjusted/removed to fit your needs. While initially designed to fit the cthulhu boards, they can still hold hacked pads and other pcb's by a simple ziptie method or whatever you come up with. You don't have to use them, but they are there to help you out if you want them.
Here are some pics with a JLF and some buttons in place .
The pics above only show a glimpse of what can be done. Let me try to get into more details and options with more pics
.Lets say you want to replace the front panel now because you prefer a Neutrik Adapter rather than a cord opening. No problem, lets take a front panel with a Neutrik space...
now unscrew the four screws holding the front panel of the case...
place the buttons and Neutrik adapter on the new panel and screw back in...
and Done!
Or decided you no longer want buttons on the side panel? No prob, swap it.
Yep, it's that easy to change your mind.
Now lets look at some color options. Here's a Dark Blue theme.
Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Dark Blue
Name Plate & PCB Plate = Transparent Dark Blue
Front Panel = Clear; S/S Buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Clear
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Dark Blue
Bottom = Clear
JLF Mount = Transparent Dark Blue
The colors help distinguish some parts a little better, for instance the border design.
Lets try an Iron Man theme
Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Red
Name Plate & PCB plate = Transparent Red
Front Panel = Fluorescent Orange; S/S buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Fluorescent Orange
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Red
Bottom = Clear
Bottom Thin Plexi with 2 Artworks (one facing each side)
JLF Mount = Transparent Red
This shows Artwork placed on the bottom but facing top side to add a little background to future wiring. A thin bottom plexi is used to sandwich the artwork in place
The Fluorescent Orange reflected the flash so the front couldn't be seen. Below is without flash (ugly color turnout) but at least shows the Name Plate. Under regular light, you can see through to notice the name plate.
Flipping the case around, there's another artwork. Basically I place two artworks between a thin bottom plexi.
Here are some pics without the artwork so the design is more clear.
Here's some closeups of the Name Plates in these examples:
View of the case frames. Showing Borders, Name Plate, and PCB Plate which forms the skeletal structure of the case.
Those are just some basic color combinations. But basically, the color combinations and setups are up to your imagination? and what color/material stock I can get, lol.
Oh and top artwork you ask? But of course! Optional thin top plexi's will be available.
The artwork is cut a little smaller than the full top of the case. This gives a natural border, particularly for dark and opaque top colors. For clear tops, this makes the artwork look like it's floating in a frame.
Gotta show the popular Chun Li artwork by Stanley Lau.
Taking this even one step further, how about thin plexi options all around the case which essentially allows you to turn the entire case into swappable artwork.
Lets say I wanted to give my entire case a carbon fiber look with a high res print of a carbon fiber pattern. Then cut the image for the top and all four sides. Sandwich all pieces to all sides and...
Obviously a full artwork case swap is all up to your imagination. I plan to make one with a large cast of either Marvel or SSF4 all around the sides.
Alright, almost done. Sorry if I'm tiring you out with all the pics, lol.
Here's my working, complete prototype from about a month ago. A few minor changes were made since these pics. (Fluorescent Orange Border, Name Plate, PCB Plate and Left/Right Sides. Using a salvaged 360 TE PCB)
Here's probably a better closeup of the PCB holders and wire hook in action. Just using zip ties to keep them in place.
And last, but not least, here are what I call "Side Decors". Here's a sample of Acrylic shapes that can be screwed on to the side panels to further express yourself.
They will come in pairs so you can apply them corner to corner, or a piece per side. Or use two sets and have them corner to corner on opposite sides.
Apply them anywhere on the sides of the case, where room permits. Obviously if the area has buttons, these won't fit that area.
Other Side Decor colors and shapes will be made available.
Finally, those are all the pics I have so far
. I will post more pics of other various colors when I have time. (I want to take pics of the lighter colors, and when I restock Fluorescent Blue. Also with opaque colors, and etching samples).Here are some more highlights and details:
* Size: L 13 1/2" x W 8 1/2" x H 2 1/4". Height is about 2 1/2" with feet.
* Weight: Just case is 2.35 lbs; With JLF, Buttons and TE PCB is about 3.5 lbs (will obviously vary)
* Everything is put together by screws and what I call "Diamond Joints". There is absolutely no "gluing" or acrylic bonding agents needed.
* Because no permanent bonding is used, all parts can be easily swapped and changed to fit your style. Also, if by some unfortunate accident a part of the case gets damaged, you can simply replace the damaged part with a new one rather than worrying about replacing the entire case.
* Your personal Name Plate, cut with a short text of your choice. Not etched, actual cut through the acrylic.
* Top and Bottom panels are extended out past the rectangular outline of the case with rounded corners. This prevents issues with sharp corners.
* Popular button configurations will be available (ie: Vewlix, Blast City, T5, Midway, Capcom, etc).
* Various button options for the left/right side panels, as well as front panel including neutrik setup.
* Most parts will have etching options.
* Thin plexi and Artwork options available for top, bottom and sides.
* All pieces (except for diamond joints) are made with 1/8" acrylic so more colors can be available. (Majority of colors are more readily available in 1/8" thickness)
* PCB holders and wire loops to help with PCB and Wire organization.
So that's it for now. Hope you guys are excited as I am
. I will showcase more on etching and other color combos when I get a chance. I will be working on an instructional video to show how everything is put together. Hopefully I'll get that up within a week or two.I have also asked a few experienced modders to be testers and when they get the first cases they can share their personal experiences. But from my personal experience, and one other's, the results have been great!
Thanks again for everyone's support
. And shout out to parabellum, where ever you are buddy, thanks for giving me a challenge 
.Got Questions? Look at the bottom post first.
↧