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Killer Instinct Win10, Getting Sticks to Work

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My first post in Shoryuken forums. I came here on the suggestion from some users on the KI ultra-combo forums who had difficulty with the below problem.

I've been playing KI on the XBone for a couple of years. When it was released on PC, I used the xbone gamepad because it was what I am used to. But when I plugged in my barely used XBone TE2 last week, it worked fine. Though, only with KI. Not any of my other games, which is a drag, because I have a lot of arcade games on Steam.

I convinced a friend to pick up the game so I could play someone online other than faceless randos (no offense, I just have a hard time getting enthusastic about matches against anonymous players). To my excitement he agreed. He wanted to get technical, though. Because he had heard reports that the XBone gamepad drops diagonal inputs. I don't know anything about that, but I'll take his word for it. So he decided he wanted a stick. I suggested the XBone TE2 to him, but that was before I knew it only worked on Microsoft store games. The thing is, he wants to slowly convert his hardware into an arcade cabinet with MAME, so he's going to need something that will do both PC and KI on Win10.

Unfortunately, I have found the XBox TE2 is discontinued. I am curious why, but that's beside the topic (though if you know it would be cool to know). The XBone TE2 is no longer available unless you want to pay twice it's worth for a NIB from an independent dealer. So my friend bought the PS3/4 TE2 in the hopes he could manage his way into getting it to work with KI, but he has not been successful.

Does anyone have any suggestions for getting that PS3/4 TE2 to work on KI? He's getting rather salty about how convoluted fight stick compatibility is, and I'd hate for my newbie friend to be chased away from the game over this. I want to get him fighting before he loses steam on the issue and gives up.

So for KI and a PS3/4 TE2:
Can anyone confirm any way to get this to work?
Joy2Key?
Any specific drivers or emulation software?
Maybe a Brook Universal board can work on KI and PC?
Is it even possible? There's a void of specific information out there on this.

Thanks in advance.

What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting.

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The "what stick/controller should I get" Guide.

Warning: This thread is heavily opinionated as are the nature of any product review. Movie and game reviews are heavily opinionated as well.
As well all have contrasting views on what is good/acceptable, as rule from the moderators, we shall not devolve into a VERSUS thread.
Personal opinions are fine, trying to argue that your favorite stick is better will not be tolerated. Do not confuse opinion with fact and vise versa.
Your Results/Mileage will vary. And don't ask for us to make a choice for you, I am not holding anyone's hand.

When it comes to my own reviews, I will not go through and point out what is my own opinions from what is fact (as my prerogative), and I encourage everyone to do your own fact finding research before you make a final conclusion for yourself. That is what google is for, finding your own research and making your own decisions.

Stop asking for Promo codes and sales for any Mad Catz or other products.
Mad Catz has a front page ad on SRK's homepage. If there any codes to be had it be ether there or a insider like MarkMan will share with us the good news via a post in Tech Talk.
You will find out when everyone else dose.

I will come back and edit and update this thread as needed so if you spot something wrong, let me know. And you other experts on Tech Talk, feel free to add your own wisdom and insight.
Yeah I am not having that any more, because I am a jerk.

Keep in mind I am purposely leaving out many limited edition and/or collectors sticks, as it goes outside the intentions of the guide. Collectors are going to collect.

ATTENTION ALL READERS
And I also like to keep custom sticks off the thread entirely, Custom sticks are outside of the scope of this guide and is considered off topic. If you want a custom stick go to the
Need a Modder in Your Area? or you can try the Trading Post.

If you have questions for a mod try the search function here at SRK or
The Absolute Noobie Thread Or The Info Thread: Rules FAQs and Tutorials
Please do not post build questions here.

And do not ask about Converters, Converts can be found here.
Converter Compatibility Thread

Quick tip on searching the forums. Courtesy of RosserRooster
If you ever want to search SRK google : site:shoryuken.com and then beside it put what your looking for bookmark it It makes searching SRK and so much easier and efficient

SRK vets should really advertise this more maybe it would cut down on some of the repetitive question...nah it wouldn't because people are too lazy to search for answers


At no time I will rate Sanwa or Seimitsu with each other or IL and Happs, or Japanese vs US/European vs Korean style parts.

Before I start with the cool part of this guide, we will first cover three more important objectives.
And what you need to consider above all else.
  • Needs
  • Wants
  • Budget
Needs. This covers what you absolutely have to have, strip down and basic. With any purchase this is what you should think of first. When it comes to Video Game controls this is usually covered by the Default game pad, only a few games require specialized controls or controls modified for those who have special needs. Example a One handed controller for a gamer who only have one useable arm.
I am assuming most people reading this guide now are hardcore fighter or arcade game fans who the regular d-pad is not cutting it for you, as we all hear complaints over the Xbox 360 or PS3 D-pad.

Wants. This is what you have your heart set for. For most people this is your end results.

Budget. This is how much money you have to spend. Budget is the more realistic and sobering part of the purchase process. Typically a stick will run you 60 to 250 dollars U.S. retail this figure will change with what the normal market price is in your region of the world.
Any stick you find less than $50 is not worth your money and breaks easy. Sticks more than $200 are no longer considered Beginner Sticks.
My general rule of thumb on these things: when in doubt, pass. I'd rather pay the few extra dollars and get one that I KNOW works than one that may or may not. My peace of mind is worth a few extra dollars

If you find some cheap stick or pad somewhere from questionable sources, consider it highly risky and pass. Usually what is too good to be true usually is.

Keep in mind if you are broke (Budget), and the default game pad works fine enough for you (Need) that these 2 will and should over ride your Wants.

Now I am also going to cover other features of each stick/ controller here. These factors are also important to cover but goes secondary to the above. I be using this on almost every stick I list here.
  • Quality
  • Reliability
  • Ease of Modification
  • Purpose or special use
Quick Short Cuts
Mad Catz
Hori
Sega
American/ European Style , Korean Style, Qanba and others

Unless otherwise noted, each sticks are for the PS3 and the Xbox 360.

Read about PlayStation 4 sticks here
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195854/ps3-ps4-retail-arcade-sticks-list-with-information-facts-photos-etc-in-progress/p1

Difficulty Scale for Modding
From a scale of 1 to 5. This will factor in installing Buttons, Joysticks and replacement panels, and to a lesser extend PCB replacement.
This will not factor actual Dual-mods, replacement art or any painting.
  1. Easy: Standard parts drops right into place, reasonable access to all parts.
  2. Medium Easy: Still uses standard parts, access can be difficult/ time consuming
  3. Moderate Difficulty: Requires minor case modding or appropriate mount plates
  4. Medium hard: Requires some physical tool use to fit parts into place.
  5. Hard: Requires Heavy modding using tools to cut, grind or drill to fit replacement parts.
Last but not least I ask readers to go outside of this thread and do your research. Read reviews here on SRK and reviews on online stores and in magazines. Weigh the Pros and Cons before deciding which stick to get. And stop posting new threads on what stick you should buy, its why this thread is sticked.

How to Win at eBay.
Keep in mind eBay is not an online store. eBay is a listing and auction service, you are buying from that individual seller not eBay. And Every Seller is different.
For Experienced sellers who sold hundreds if not thousands, Look for sellers with a Feedback score of 99.5% rating or better. Huge time sellers with a 95% or lower are to be avoided like the plague. Pay attention to the text in the negative feedbacks, check to see if the negative feedbacks buyers actually have an issue or they are just jerks.
For people with a hundred sales or less, if they do not have a 100% rating, avoid them.

*When Bidding
Never, ever bid early. You only drive the price up higher.
Wait till the last possible minute, sometimes the last possible twelve seconds.
Also decide in advance the maximum you want to bid.

*How to know if you have a good price or not
Swing over to the reviews on PAGE 1 (it is required for this thread). I did not list the current price of a stick, I listed there original MSRP (or close to it). With the exception for huge collectors’ items avoid sticks that price them higher than I have them listed. (Examples Comic Con TE, Chun Li TE is going to be priced higher than other TEs) Many sellers have a terrible habit of over inflating the price of their sticks thinking the Market will bear, do not fall for it.
Also beware for sticks that are market high and are not in NEW/ Close to NEW condition. DO NOT pay full price on "customized sticks" with a few exceptions. Otherwise only pay full price on sticks that are keep stock.

Those exceptions are:
* Sticks that do not come as Full Sanwa or Full Seimitsu (they used knock off Parts instead of authentic parts) are modded to be all authentic buttons and joystick. Example finding a Mad Catz WWE Brawl Stick that has a JLF and Sanwa buttons installed. You should not pay any more than (approx) 10% more than the cost of the stick + cost of the new parts.
* Sticks that has been professionally Dual-Moded (if in doubt ask someone in SRK TT) The pricing should be cost of the stick + Dual Mod PCB Cost + 10% to 25% of the stick for labor.
* Older era (Decades old sticks such as SNES and Genesis/MegaDrive Era and back) sticks that are refurbish. Many of these are collector items.

As for buying online outside the United States? This is a tricky issue as each countries fighting game scene is different.
The market strong in Parts of Asia (like Japan or S. Korea), Europe (mostly Western Europe), Australia and Canada (maybe Mexico) otherwise you have to eat heavily shipping costs.
Tip for you guys overseas is try to find a seller in your home country first if possible, better if he is in your home province/area.
If that not possible look at neighboring Countries that are friendly to your own. Example You are living in Span, try a French, British or German Seller if you can't find someone in Spain (yes I know they are not right next to each other).

Here is another VERY GOOD guide for buying on eBay
It is on a website for cameras and photography but everything on that guide applies to arcade sticks as well. Just that all their examples are photography related.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/ebay/
P.S. Ken Rockwell is also having great advice and tips on photography.

Also there is no such thing as a "BEGINNER STICK" so do not ask. There are no Training Wheels in the FGC.

Also there is the thread FrankCastleAZ started, I am defaulting anything said to his thread.

DEFINITIVE PS4/PS3 RETAIL ARCADE STICKS LIST WITH INFO/FACTS/PHOTOS/ADVANTAGES/DISADVANTAGES/ETC
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195854/definitive-ps4-ps3-retail-arcade-sticks-list-with-info-facts-photos-advantages-disadvantages-etc/p1

Vertagear Chairs

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Figured this is a good place to ask.

So I have some extra scratch and was thinking about picking up a Vertagear chair.

First, the price is whoa. Still, they do have a steel frame which seems to be rare for racing seats.

Second, they seem nice with all those bells and whistles but are they comfortable to sit in?

The point of this thread is to get some feedback from those who have used and/or own Vertagear chairs to let me know if it's worth the price. My office seat at home is extremely uncomfortable for long sessions of gaming and work so I need to upgrade my shit.

Please give me any advice you can. Thanks!

How Many Arcade Sticks Do You Own

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I'm considering buying my 3rd arcade stick. I think its kinda silly to own more than one arcade stick, but I just can't help myself. I just want to collect the best looking arcade sticks. How many fightsticks/arcade sticks do you own? Which one is your favorite? I personally like the Mad Catz Pro stick because of the arm rests.

Making a stick and need a case. Help?

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I plan on making a stick on my own for the first time and need to get a case. Problem is I'm broke so I am trying to spend as little as possible. I've done a lot of research on cases but I can't seem to find a good quality case for under 100. Can someone help? Also I'm going to be putting a Korean stick in it so bonus points if someone can help me find a case that would fit that.. if not I'll have to get a crown lever and convert it to be as Fanta-like as possible. Thanks in advance.. any help is appreciated.

Note: I don't really like the art hobbies ones .. seem flimsy and don't look all that great. Best I've seen is the Makestick case but it's like $110 after shipping :(

Hayabusa joystick install driving me insane

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I'm about to give up on this and wire in a seimitsu. I can take apart the Hayabusa and put it back together carefully, plug the joystick into whatever, and it either works great for a couple seconds or half the switches don't respond.
Sometime there's a click and it doesn't register, sometimes there's no click.
it seems like there's one level it wants to stay at but it isn't doing so.

When I got it it was fully disassembled so I'm not sure if i'm screwing something up on reassembly. But even if I have it working in my hand, and screw it into the joystick (mayflash f300) carefully, at least one side stops responding.
It's not a wiring problem because the shaft doesn't seem to stay vertically where it should, and the manual doesn't provide any insight on this really.


Does it need to be greased or am I putting it together wrong?

If i can't figure this out in a couple days I am gonna put a Seimitsu in and forget about the Hayabusa.

ZD Arcade Control Encoder And ZD ReMatch (PS3/PS2/PC) (The most cost efficient PCBs to date!)

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I don't know if this is well known or not but i didnt see any threads mentioning this so ill just post everything here.
[copypasta]
Zero Delay Arcade Control Encoder
ZeroDelayEncoderBoardRev2.jpg
The Zero delay is the most cost effective encoder option available. It is plug and play, lag free and very compact. (8.5 cm X 3.5 cm X 1 cm)
The Zero Delay board comes with:
  • USB Cable
  • 4 Wire sets for joystick.
  • 8 Wire sets for 8 buttons, or 12 wire sets if you want to upgrade.
  • Instructions
The Zero Delay also has these additional features for those that wish to utilize them:
  • Hat switch for secondary joystick, POV controls, or console style gaming controls
  • Autofire option
  • Rapidfire option
  • 5 pin port for Japanese (Sanwa) ports
BoardFront.jpg
BoardBack.jpg

FAQ:

Q: What method does this board encode the controls?
A: Controls are encoded like a gamepad.

Q: How do I hook up the controls?
A: one end of the wire plugs right into the board port, the other end connectors into the joystick or button switch. The included instructions will let you know what each port maps to. The terminals will fit up to .187 size terminals, which is the most common size for arcade switches. If you have switches that take the larger .25 terminals, you can either soldier on the terminals or crimp on new connectors.

Q: Have these boards been inspected?
A: Each board was given QC initials. Also, I have personally plugged every board in my PC and determined that it registers correctly with the PC. I have also visually inspected all the wires and boards.

Q: How should payment be made?
A: I am set up for Paypal. If you are interested in purchasing, send me a PM.

Q: Is this compatible with PS3?
A: I have had a chance to try it out, yes, it worked great. It should be great for fighters!

Q: Does it need special software?
A: It uses the standard joystick drivers on the computer, no software needed!
[/copypasta'd]

I'm sure you all are dying to know the price by now, this thing only cost $14.75 SHIPPED!

I personally haven't had a chance to FULLY test these out myself but so far they're holding up as promised. The main thing i wanted to test out on this is to see if optical joysticks work with this thing. I haven't had much luck but they're several VCC points on the PCB so someone else who's more hella tech savvier can test that out themselves.



Im not sure if im allowed to link to other forums to where you can buy it, so if you're interested in this and want to talk to the man himself thats selling these send me a convo and ill link you to his thread....or better yet just google it and and im sure you'll get a direct hit...lol

Again, this is compatible with PS3 and PC ONLY! sorry Xbox 360 heads. You lose out once again.........blame Micro$oft.

Just wanted to let those in the dark know whats up. If you have any question feel free to ask.
That is all.

EDIT:
Fuck it.
EncoderBanner.jpg
eb476b4dda56f9cfea44fcfcd91fa127.gif.....CLICK DAT!

TE2 AUX panel Wire harness size?

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Hey guys, i recently modded my TE2 with a Jasen's Customs EZ Mod and Brook UFB. I love it but i have one question.

The wire harness that connects from the front aux panel (with the PS Home button) to the EZ mod board is starting to act up on my stick. If it bends in certain ways it completely turns off the front panel and the Home button wont work anymore. Its the 14 pin wire harness at the very top of this picture here 5TR6zPJ.jpg

I just wanted to know where, if anywhere, I could fine a replacement wire harness? Or does anyone know where I could find the correct size female connectors so I would be able to make my own?

I know i could probably just snip the wires at both sides and solder new wires to them, but i just wanted to know if there was an easier option out there.

Hori RAP W? LEAK

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image

Around the 0:42 mark, $149.99.

Just creating some especulation. What do you guys think?

T.E.2+ Holding Left Input on D-Pad and Left Stick

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So I purchased a used for parts arcade stick off Ebay thinking I could fix it since it was indicated that the only problem was the Joystick. After spending some time investigating the issue I have not found a solid answer to my issue. Using proper drivers and having checked the joystick PCB and even the wiring from the PCB to the Joystick Is till can not get it to default to neutral. I've seen that there is a possibility that the USB cable itself could be having issues, but other than a random post on reddit have found nothing to back this up. Is there a fix for this I'm just not finding or do i just need to replace the control PCB it came with?
imgur.com/a/n57Y6

The Official TE2, TE2+, TES+ EZ MOD Thread

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Hi everyone! I wanted to take a minute to create this thread so everyone can ask questions, get help, etc. from one location with the TE2 EZ MOD.

What is the TE2 and TE2+ EZ MOD?

The TE2/TE2+ EZ MOD allows easy installation of the Brook Universal Fighting Board in all Madcatz TE2 sticks (and NOW TE2+ STICKS). If you are not familiar with the Brook UFB, check the link out. It's a PCB (or brain if you will) that allows your Fight/Arcade Stick to work with the following consoles: PS3/PS4/XBOX 360/XBOX ONE/Wii U (Pokken) and of course PC. It was released earlier this year and is a very welcomed addition to the community.

Why install it?
It mods your single stick into a multi platform beast quick and easy. Perfect for traveling around to tourneys, local events, etc. It works with all variants of the TE2 and, in my opinion, can't be installed improperly. It requires one minor modification to the stock wiring of the stick, removing the soldered on USB connector wires. They can be clipped right at the board easily. It fits in the stock location for the TE2/TE2+ so it looks clean when installed and keeps the Brook UFB swappable to other sticks as well because the connectors are common and top mounted.

What's included in the kit?
The TE2 and TE2+ EZ MOD Board is included with all necessary cables and connectors that require soldering to the Brook UFB. Can't solder? Don't worry! The shops carrying the TE2 EZ MOD will have Brook UFB pre-soldered for painless and solder-free install upon arrival.

TE2 EZ MOD Board Picture:
RIeYjGH.jpg

TE2 EZ MOD Board Installed into an XBONE TE2:
8rMWRTx.jpg

Install Video Part 1:
image

Install Video Part 2:
image

Basic Install "How To"
EPiZemY.png

Where to buy it?
You can get the TE2 EZ MOD from the following retailers later this month (June 2016) as the production run is being finalized now. Yes, each board is professionally manufactured and assembled.

Arcade Shock
Paradise Arcade Shop

You can get the TE2+ EZ MOD from me at EVO2016. Yes, each board is professionally manufactured and assembled.

FAQs (TE2 EZ MOD)
  • Price? - I am leaving this up to the Vendors, however, I expect about $30 for the kit with some special combo deals from time to time when purchased with the Brook UFB.
  • Will this work with the LVT3? - Yes. It should work fine. The Power Connector "U$8" aka "TO LVT3 or LED BOARD provides the necessary power to the stock MCZ LED board and the LVT3 board.
  • What are the jumpers in the kit used for? - You connect them to pins on JP4 (RIGHT BUTTON on the AUX Panel) and JP5 (LEFT BUTTON on the Aux Panel). These let you set those buttons to either L3, R3, TP Click, or Turbo.
  • What does JP6 do? - This is a programming header. Do not connect anything to this. It is not used by the end user.
  • Can you use this to connect a PS360+ ? - Absolutely. In this case you will only need to connect the 4P USB interconnect and the 20P ribbon cable between the two boards.
  • Can I use a Kaimana Khameleon with this setup? - Absolutely! The only modification you will need to make is making your own mini-USB to Molex 4 pin connector cable. Simply cut the non-mini end off of the cable and connect the wire ends to a molex 4P KK housing. Here's a link. Don't forget the pins!
  • What do the LEDs on the Aux panel end up doing? - On sticks that have it, the LOCK button indicates Turbo Function. Solid = Turbo activated, Blinking = Turbo in effect for the button you are pressing. The Player LEDs work as expected lighting up for what player you are on the system. The remaining don't do anything. The one fun part is on XBONE variants all LEDs do a Knight Rider chase on power up. How fun!
  • Do you have other EZ MODs? - Yes! The PS4 version of the Hori VLX has an EZ MOD available as well.And a TE2+ EZ MOD is being produced now. I have no immediate plans for TE+S EZ MODS due to military commitments and relatively low sales of that stick.
  • My MCZ LED Board doesn't light up! - Don't worry, we can fix it. It's not clean but it will work until you can update to an LVT3 LED controller. On the 3 pin LED Board Connector, connect the middle pin and the pin closest to the start/select header. You can clip the wires and then solder/splice them together or even bridge the pins on the EZMOD board underneath. The LEDs should fire right up. Thanks @Megahurtz for being the guinea pig on this work around ;)

FAQs (TE2+ EZ MOD)
  • Price? - TBD, but I hope to keep it between $35 and $40. I didn't make as many of these so volume pricing won't be as good.
  • Who sells it? Just me at EVO 2016 right now. If its popular and the TE2 EZ MOD does well, I suspect other shops will want to carry it as well.
  • Do I have to use Jumpers? Nope. Not on this one. The TE2+ had all the right buttons this time!
  • Does the UNLOCK/LOCK button work? Yes, as TURBO. To keep the board low cost and minimize the number of processors and programs to deal with I chose to NOT make that function work in lieu of using the Turbo Function.
  • Does the Touch Pad work? Yes and No. It is setup to work once Brook implements the Touch Pad connections into the UFB Firmware. The TP click does work.
  • Will this work with the LVT3? - Yes. It should work fine. The Power Connector "U$8" aka "TO LVT3 or LED BOARD provides the necessary power to the stock MCZ LED board and the LVT3 board.
  • What does JP6 do? - This is a programming header. Do not connect anything to this. It is not used by the end user.
  • Can you use this to connect a PS360+ ? - Absolutely. In this case you will only need to connect the 4P USB interconnect and the 20P ribbon cable between the two boards.
  • Why are there LEDs on the board? What do they do? Two indicate the two voltages on the board, VBUS and VCC. If they are lit, power is working properly. The final LED is a "heartbeat" this indicates that the processor is working. If it's blinking, the EZ MOD is working
  • Can I use a Kaimana Khameleon with this setup? - Absolutely! The only modification you will need to make is making your own mini-USB to Molex 4 pin connector cable. Simply cut the non-mini end off of the cable and connect the wire ends to a molex 4P KK housing. Here's a link. Don't forget the pins!
  • What do the LEDs on the Aux panel end up doing? - The LOCK button indicates Turbo Function. Solid = Turbo activated, Blinking = Turbo in effect for the button you are pressing. The Player LEDs work as expected lighting up for what player you are on the system, except there is a twist! The Player 1 LED lights up Blue if you are Player 1. Then if you are Player 2, Player 1 and Player 2 LEDs light up RED. If you are Player 3: Player 1, 2, and 3 light up GREEN. Player 4: All 4 LEDs are ON and Purple! Fun! Also, the Knight Rider woosh goes on startup and the Player LEDs cycle their colors to show everything is working. Finally in XBONE mode, all 4 LEDs are on and glow WHITE.
  • Do you have other EZ MODs? - Yes! The PS4 version of the Hori VLX has an EZ MOD available as well and the TE2 EZ MOD.

Bug Fixes and Applicability

** IF YOU HAVE A TE2 EZ MOD WITH AN XBOX 360 TE2 ONLY. EZ MOD SHIPPED AFTER 7/1/16: Player 4 LED is always lit due to a software bug we found and fixed compliments of @Feargus001100 (thanks Copy and Paste)! If you received your EZ MOD from ArcadeShock or ParadiseArcadeShop and find that the Player 4 LED on your XBOX 360 Version TE2 is always ON please contact me for a fix!

LVT3 USERS

Some of the LVT3s designed for the MCZ TE2 are not compatible with the EZ MOD. Specifically, the XBONE version. The others ARE compatible but may not work right out of the box with the TE2+ and TE2 but may require a cable fix that connects the LVT3 to the EZ MOD. Basically, if your buttons don't work after install, you need to tweak the included LVT3 cable. What is happening is the button signal connections from the LVT3 are being connected directly to the GND plane and the GND plane of the LVT3 are being connected directly to the button signals. Clearly, nothing will work this way. Here's how the connector on the EZ MOD is setup:

yKBbKAq.png

Here's the link from Paradise Arcade discussing what to do to swap the wires around:

http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/solutions/articles/14000026297-te2-and-te2-with-the-lvt3

Help with mcz te2 on psn

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Hey whats up. Here is my issue. I gave my cousin away two madcatz te2, the blue ones. For ps4 and they work great on sfv and kof xiv, but for some reason they dont work on kof 2000. Anybody have any ideas what might be happening?

HRAP Mod: do you like it?

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Dear

I need your advice, I swap some of pert betwen HRAP 2 and HRAP 2 SA, I like it, but and you do you like it? What is your preference? Keep original or mod, and which?
All remarks accept.

THX

img_2057.jpg
img_2059.jpg
img_2058.jpg

Help me with installing ls-32 and hayabusa in a TE2

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Hello all,

I've ordered a seimitsu ls-32-01, ls-40-01 and a Hori hayabusa sticks for my madcatz TE2 (xbone red black). As well as kowal actuators, 2lbs and 4lbs springs plus ss and se plates.

So the ls-32-01 and ls-40-01 with flat plate should fit the TE2 without problems correct? Or must i use the se plate?
The issue is with the 5pin should i put the 5pin the same way as with the stock jlf or as some say flip the 5pin then connect?
What about the hayabusa connect the 5pin the same as with the stock jlf or flip it around?

Lastly does the hayabusa stick accepts kowal 1mm actuator if not which one does?
Tried searching for answers but no luck...
Your help is much appreciated.

Thank you in advance

384x224 Resolution and CPS2 games

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Although these games were played on 4:3 CRTs, for some reason they have native widescreen resolution. I did some googling, even ran a search here and read a thread in which people were stating the games were meant to be fitted into a 4:3 aspect ratio and that they'll look too "fat" or wide without doing so. However, I feel as if the sprites actually look correct at the original resolution the game outputs, even if the displays of the time were using 4:3.

Here is a sprite rip of Sakura and a screenshot of Street Fighter Alpha 2 in it's native resolution.

tioPrEM.gif aCSw03W.png

As you can see, it's literally identical in appearance to how the sprite is before being outputted via the system and game. I don't see this as being too wide or anything either, it looks the most "correct". Am I wrong here?




Brook PS4 / XboxOne Controller Converters Thread

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Hey Everyone,

Updating this post with all the confirmed working Controllers and PCBs that people have tested thus far from this discussion. If you would like to contribute please add your confirmed findings in the comments and I will update this post. Clearly state which model/color Brook adapter and the confirmed working controller manufacturer / model.

Manufacturers Website: http://www.brookaccessory.com/product/

My Reviews / Lag Test on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLIZO5l6xAWmH7XnBbMn157GJR8uFEoPGh

Official Firmware Updates:
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download

*General Compatibility - Most Officially Licensed Products should work with these converters as they are required to follow exact specifications from Sony / MS.

The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

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Welcome Sheets:
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf

MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip

Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/

Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.

Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis

Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.

_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:

Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.

Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.

Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)

Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)

Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread

Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.

Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.

Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.

Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.

Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power

Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack

Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.

Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.

Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.

Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.

Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework

Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:

PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS

PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select

PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)

1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X

Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A

Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start

Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks

NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)

NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A

NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start

SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select

Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L

3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop

TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)

Normal:
1K: II
2K: I

Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I

Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I


Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.

Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.

Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.

Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.

Q: What about converter support?
A:
Tested as working:
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)

Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
____________
ChimpSMD Questions

Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.

Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577

Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.

Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.

Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.

Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.

Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp

Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306


Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3:
[] /\  R1  L1
 X  O  R2  L2
For Xbox360:
X  Y  RB  LB
A  B  RT  LT
You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.

Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.

Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.

Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.

Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:

If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:

Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)

If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.

Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html

Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.

Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.

Quick question about Mayflash PCB

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The PCB comes with a joystick with 4 switches each wired up to a 2 pin cable. How can I figure out with a digital multimeter if the PCB expects ground to be on one side and signal on the other or if it doesn't care as long as the switch is wired up? I am going to get a stick without a PCB in this but wanted to verify this before wiring it up.

Next to it is the more standard 5 pin joystick connector, but I can't use my 5 pin cable with soldered ends unless I daisy chain all the grounds, which I might do.

Not my pic:
5BjNM5m.jpg

Xbox 360 USB/Cronusmax to Gamecube Help?

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Hi all. I have a cronus max that I wrote a script for smash bros such that I can use a brook universal pcb to control the game. Right now my setup goes from cronus max
10393415.jpg

to a maxgear cross fight 2.0
81rH5CN0N0L._SX425_.jpg

and then plugs into the wii u usb ports. I'd like to be able to just plug it into a gamecube adapter.
71M404KvsxL._SX522_.jpg

I saw this being sold on amazon and was hoping I could rewire it to gamecube pinouts
41QBHejYftL.jpg


I can provide extra power to the cronusmax if need be with it's side prog usb port, so that's not an issue.

Does anybody have any suggestions? Do I need to buy an Damned decoder for this, or is there a simple shortcut for gamecube controller pinouts that I don't know about? I know that RJ45 cables can go to the gamecube. Is there some simple wiring I can do to go from usb to rj45 to gamecube?

The Hori PS4 VLX thread

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I have been waiting for a new VLX for awhile. Who is preordering one? I am tempted although I already have a VLX diamond. The only downside is it comes with shitty Kuro buttons.

What are your guys thoughts?
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