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Custom Controller? (Stickless)

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Hi there everyone. Occasional lurker, first time poster here.
Finally decided to start looking for a stickless arcade stick so figured I'd come ask some questions and see if I could get some relative feedback/pointed in the right direction.
First question is a twofer! I've seen some triangle and square sanwa buttons (link: http://www.arcadeshop.de/index.php?cPath=79_91&sort=2a&page=2 ) and was curious if they are as reliable/effective/whatevs as the traditional circle buttons I see on most sticks.
My brother is real fond of his Qanba Q4raf so I figure mine should use one as a base as well so guests could have option of stick/less on same box style. I found a site that had a custom panel builder so I could set up a layout shape but it only had circle buttons. Which leads to the next question.
Provided them triangle and square buttons are comparable to the circle ones who/where should I look to commission a Q4 with layout shown but triangle buttons for the directionals (pointed in their appropriate direction and color coordinated like super famicom's abxy) and squares on the input buttons (color coordinated for XBox layout on left 4 and blacks/whites for Bumper/Trigger) on the right? (start/select round buttons)
Last question...How many systems supportable can one realistically get with such a mod? We have ps2, Xbox360, Wii, WiiU, PC, and plan to get XBone, PS3/PS4

(note: image is not on quanba as it was not an option on the site)
potentiallayout.png

Hitbox Original or Jasen's Hitbox Layout?

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I want to buy a hitbox but I'm stuck between the original hitbox and Jansen's. I love the build quality of Jasen's sticks but idk if the hitbox is better with or without the palm support. Has anyone tried both and is willing to offer me their opinion of the two?

How to convert a MadCatz TE-S to a "hitbox" keystick

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So, I have an Mad Catz TE-S arcade stick that was modded by Gummowned. He added MC Cthulhu to it so I could use the stick on all of my old consoles. But I want to convert it to a "hitbox" (yeah, I know it's a brand name and all) style keyboard stick. But with a twist, I want to have to "up" inputs. Here's a mockup that I made on tek-innovations:
rVCLGbs.png
basically it's a hitbox with a WASD keyboard layout. the "thumb" button and the top button ("W) are both up inputs.

can someone explain to me how to convert my stick into something like that? I have pretty much zero experience with modding (aside from reconnecting the wires to the buttons that have fallen off over time), so please explain it to me like I'm a baby haha. is it possible to do it without any soldering tools/experience? I've heard about a daisy chain movement adapter that focusattack.com used to sell that would make it easier, but I can't find it anymore =/ and how can I wire two up inputs to the two buttons?

if it's as easy as plugging in all of the cords into buttons, then i'm all for it. and does tek-innovations do custom plexi glass layouts? I would like to have artwork as well... sorry for the general noobness when it comes to stick modding, haha.

Brook PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB Thread

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Hey Everyone,

Brook just announced a new 40mm x 40mm Square PCB called the "Fight Board". Myself and few SRK tech talk members had some early access to the board and have been testing it for the past few weeks. With the help of our feedback they are ready for retail production and will be available through Brook's retail channels worldwide later this month (November 2015) at around $40 (US).

tUFSXnj.jpg

Features:
- Auto detects PS3 and PS4
- No 8 Minute Timeout on PS4
- SOCD Cleaner
- Firmware Updatable
- Optional Access to Turbo, Analog Controls (via firmware Update), TouchPad & Touchpad button, & LEDs.
- Common Ground

fD9AyRG.jpg

*One thing to note is that It requires soldering to access the inputs and does not come with screw terminals. So break out those irons...

As far as initial performance goes myself and @wazwuz have found the board to perform slightly faster or atleast equal to a FC4 pad hacked board. We will be testing further and with more detail when the retail firmware is available.

Brook via @gogo.zippy will be closely monitoring this thread throughout its initial release and as always will be available for questions and feedback.

The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

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Recently announced Razer Arcade stick looks sleek but it seems to be only on the xbox. Also it doesn't look like it uses quick disconnects that we're used to, But a different kind that has both connectors in 1.
more info at their site, Don't forget to sign up for their beta Program!
Link: http://www.razerzone.com/bredtofight

EDIT:
List of suggestions:
Mandatory
Different Quick Connects for the buttons and stick
Common Ground PCB
Move the insides to the Bottom of the Stick
Move The Latch that Opens the stick
Make the height inside the stick taller so it can have parts that aren't japanese

Minor
Button Layout
Include Button Plugs

Gorilla Gaming Pro Arcade Stick

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Hi Guys,

Tried searching for this within the forums and wasn't able to find anything about it.

I recently purchased this arcade this off a NZ/Aus company: https://www.mightyape.com.au/product/gorilla-gaming-pro-arcade-fight-stick-ps4-ps3-pc-ps4/25566623

The price point looks to be on par with the Razer Panthera Stick.

I was able to purchase this off their ebay store, with an additional ebay promotion code taking an additional $20 dollars off. Picked it up for $285 AUD, compared to the $350 for the Panthera

From the descriptions it looks to be using Sanwa Denshi parts, and the stick looks to have been released last year?

Looking to see if someone else has seen/tried this.

Happy to share pics once I receive this.

Know How: The Mad Catz Pro Cable

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Hello everybody... I am making this PSA to give you the details on the Pro Cable that are used in a majority of Mad Catz high end controller and joysticks since there is not much info that I can find in the internet about them. The cable is the most vulnerable part in a joystick/controller that may fail from excessive external forces (wire trip, stressful bending, pet chew). And as we know currently, the only way to obtain a spare Pro Cable would be to either buy a joystick/controller that comes with it or find a seller online that sells the cables by itself. Oh, and Mad Catz used to sell spare Pro Cables but now only give out the cables for warranty purposes.

There are a few people in this forum that made an assumption or jumping into conclusion thinking that Mad Catz uses a "proprietary" plug on their Pro Cables for their own benefits. I would like to say that these plugs are not proprietary, nor are they unique... I know this because I was reading the TE2+ Product Guide that had a picture of the Pro Cable connectors and at that moment while servicing my soldering iron, I've noticed the connector on my soldering pen look striking similar to the Pro Cable connector.
9earHkF.jpg
A familiar connector in the soldering iron.

So after doing a quick search online, I have found out that they were using aviation connector (used in a few obscured electronic devices). The aviation connector do come in different sizes and pin count and the Mad Catz Pro Cable specifically uses a GX12 5-pin aviation connector. So, I went to eBay and bought an aviation connector for around 1 dollar and have to wait almost a month for shipping since the seller is at China.
dOw7vIF.jpg
Same pin count, different size.

Once the connector has arrived, it comes with a male connector and a female connector.
The male connector is mounted to the panel of your box and wires are soldered from the connector itself to the controller pcb, while the female connector clamped and solder to the usb cable end.
7MoMNGz.jpg
A closer look of the aviation connector.

Closer inspection on the connectors show that they are notched for correct connectivity and each individual pins are labeled with numbers.
i8jS06W.jpg
A macro shot of the numbering on the connector.

I have gotten a hand on the Mad Catz Pro Cable and used a multimeter to do a continuity test on each pins of the connector with the corresponding end of the usb plug. Oh, by the way, the Pro Cable does fit perfectly on the male end of the aviation connector in case you are wondering.

Obu6GdI.jpg
Pro Cable connector on the left and female aviation connector on the right.

IdsA1bi.jpg
Fits like a glove.

So, here are the results of the continuity test:
xhb3RpV.jpg
Pin 1 - (Green): Data +
Pin 2 - (White): Data -
Pin 3 - (Red): +5V
Pin 4 - (Black): Ground
Pin 5 - (Black): Shield

Overall, the information that I have posted here is to give everyone an option on creating their own custom Pro Cable or maybe even installing the aviation connector in their own box. The benefits of installing the GX12 aviation connector over the Neutrk USB would be the size of the mounting hole (12mm vs 24mm), the cable would be screw lock into place, and the cost... while the only drawback that I see will be the soldering requirement. Now that you all know, knowing is half the battle... thank you for reading and have a nice day.

Edit: New pic link via Imgur... Photobucket tried to break me. :tongue:

Hori RAP 4 - Did I just buy a dud ?

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Hi friends, a newbie here. I recently bought a HORI RAP 4 arcade stick from the middle east through a friend of mine working there. I chose the middle east route since the same stick costs roughly about 400 USD in India. That's PS4 console ballpark and I just couldn't justify the extra premium that I had to shell out. So my friend came back to India with the arcade stick and I was pretty excited just to see the packaging let alone the stick. I took the stick home and connected it to the PS4 after watching a few YouTube videos on how to properly connect one. Then came the bummer, the joystick wouldn't register down input *Facepalm*,every other input worked pretty flawlessly. I then started reading on this specific problem online and after scouring through various threads came across the potential cause, that it could be due to a faulty snap action switch in the joystick assembly. I sourced the micro switch that they widely use in arcade cabinets in my town and replaced the original and what I thought was the faulty one with the new micro switch. The stick still didn't respond to the down input and I pretty much concluded that the problem lies elsewhere. And my temporal lobe was like, 'Elsewhere, you mean the bloody PCB, that's rocket science, that's way beyond what a mere mortal like you could fiddle with '. So, I threw a random Hail Mary and entrusted the stick with a friend who said he knew people who work on dual shock controllers and consoles. It has been a while now and when I spoke with him last week he said they were unsure if they could fix it since they weren't familiar with one. It is depressing just to think about the stick now.
Is there any way the stick could be fixed ? Looking forward to valuable suggestions from fellow tech savvy members. Thanks in advance.

Posting a few photos for reference
http://imgur.com/a/dOFGt

Regards
Gautham

Project Magenta 2017

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Instead of reviving an old thread, I'm just starting new one, and the Magenta (at least the pre molded gate one) is here....

Some of the comments from Evo:
This joystick is my dream
This is a game changer
I have been telling everyone about this - Mr Wizard, our first install/customer
This is some amazing shit
I went from hitting 1 out of 4 times to hitting that move almost every time

The feedback was extremely positive, with one single detractor, "People want clicks though", to which I said, "We can leave the micros" @Toodles

This was a project we announced 5 years ago and has come to fruition through some blood, sweat and tears.

Magenta is an analog joystick that takes an analog field and maps it to digital outputs. In other words, this takes something like this:
20229357_1572107589516789_5203059030728703684_n.jpg?oh=5a5a2cf4a5570eaba1d69110fbd1ed06&oe=59FB777C

And makes it communicate with your stick like 4 microswitches...

So what does this mean, it means you can change how the stick behaves with different positions and tweak to your play:
1) Each direction can have independent slider control to determine sensitivity
2) You can change the relationship or the cardinals and diagonals
3) you can rotate the map to correct for a slight hook or slice
4) 4 different modes are stored so you can easily switch between games

The plan is to launch this fall, but I wanted to open a thread for discussion and to say I'm really glad to be back on TT more!
Quick FAQ that will be elaborated on:
1) You program by mini usb directly to your computer
2) Security in place to prevent tampering
3) Installed just like an optical, and does require a 5v power source
4) Has been declared tournament legal!!!!

Pictures from Evo:
20108223_1570372666356948_2174995907935564573_n.jpg?oh=648500e38da4d6b046431e91549dedec&oe=59C7D44A
19990591_1570372716356943_2476784958869525712_n.jpg?oh=b69acdb70d1893b99fe8709c3945c50e&oe=5A0EEF52

Need help modding an OG PS3 Hori VLX for PS4/PC(xinput) (Resident tech experts please guide me!)

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Hi guys, I have a rather complicated question that I cant find the answer to after hours of googling and searching around on the srk forums. Really hope the tech experts here can guide me along!

I'd like to buy an old PS3 Hori Vlx but would like to have it work on both the PS4 and PC(xinput). However, I want to make the mod reversible to stock without permanent damage and I would like it to be a solderless option as I am unfortunately not adept with a solder nor do I own a kit.

So far, I am aware of 2 options from Brook that might allow me to do that. The first is the PS4+audio fighting board, ( http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/09922855/ ) and the second is the EZ mod by Jasen and the Brook UFB ( https://arcadeshock.com/products/brook-universal-fighting-board-hori-vlx-ez-mod-kit-package )

I initially thought the EZ mod would be the answer to my problems, but in the tutorial video by Jasen himself, ( image ) under the comments he says it is not compatible with the old PS3 VLX without rewiring some connector cables or making adapters. I would think rewiring requires cutting and splicing the stock harness or soldering which I am not prepared to do, and I have no idea how to make an adapter.


I would really appreciate it if anyone can chime in with ideas or show me how you modded your own OG Vlx for use with the PS4 and having xinput for the PC.

My last resort would be to get a ps3 to ps4 converter, but I'd really like to avoid that route as it adds input lag to the (apparently) already laggy stock Hori PCB and I want this dream stick to work as well as it can.

(Last side question, am I right in thinking the OG VLX already works with PC out of the box, but uses dinput instead of xinput?)

Newb questions on modding 8bitdo NES30 Arcade Stick with Sanwa joystick

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Greetings Shoryuken forums!

I just bought an 8bitdo NES30 Arcade Stick and have become interested in modding it (seems I'm not alone).

I've never done this before but the other night succeeded in re-arranging the quick connects in order to change the button layout to make more X-Input compatible games bearable (I have no idea why people prefer putting X on top of A, when so many run and gun games require you to hold X and hit A to jump...). This was pretty easy and infused me with the hubris and now I've gone crazy fantasizing about replacing everything with Sanwa parts.

Alas, this stick doesn't have the typical 5 pin connector that can be hooked up to Sanwa style sticks but instead employs a weird 2 pin port for each direction, which on the other end has two .187 wires attaching to each of the four sides of the joystick (apparently this is used for American style sticks pretty often).

I've been browsing Focus Attack and I have an idea of what might work, but again I am inexperienced and fueled by hubris from being able to successfully rewire the buttons (hey it was a big deal for me). So let me know if this sounds nuts.

First, I'll buy a 5-pin Female to 5-pin Female cable, which I'll plug into the Sanwa joystick.

Next, I'll buy a .187 to 5-pin conversion harness, which I'll plug into the other end of the above mentioned 5-pin cable.

Next, I'll also buy four of these ".187 harness for zero delay USB encoders", as it looks like that ends with a two pin plug like the kind found on the 8bitdo.

You may have noticed a piece of the chain is missing, and it's how to attach the two .187 cables's female ends to each other to finally connect the 8bitdo to the 5-pin to .187 harness.

I'm guessing I'll need to buy a male to male .187 adapter of some kind. I have no idea where to buy this and am surprised I can't easily find such a thing, enough that it's making me wonder if I'm making some fundamentally flawed assumptions here (what I'd like to buy looks similar to this I imagine):

My other big question is if reversing how the 5-pin to .187 harness flowed would work? Seems like it's normally designed to plug an American style joystick like the 8bitdo already has into a 5-pin compatible board.

Sorry in advance if these questions are really stupid or I've broken any social mores of the forum with my inaugural post.

Did I destroy my Mad Catz TE stick? Home button keeps triggering.

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I recently got back into bullet hell shmupping and set up my tate display and arcade stick again. Then I remembered that the last thing I did with the TE stick was replace the Sanwa stick with a Seimitsu LS-58. But after I did that the Xbox home button kept randomly triggering every 5 to 10 minutes, which would bring up the home menu. That is a big issue and I don't know how to solve it.

I checked the insides of the stick again and can't see any issue with it. Now I am afraid that I destroyed the stick for good. Did anything like this happen to anyone before? Is there a possible way to fix this? I don't know if it is supposed to work just with the turbo button but locking the control panel with the switch next to the home button doesn't work either.

Issue with Madcatz TES+

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Hello, I recently bought a Madcatz TES+ and I'm having an issue with the LB/R2 button being shown as always being pressed. It seems like this person https://support.focusattack.com/hc/en-us/articles/115001863283-TE2-and-TE-S-stuck-input-issue-fix had a similar problem and concluded that defective diodes were causing the buttons to stay active.

I wanted to ask if anyone knew which specific diode might be causing my problems, or had any other advice, before I get to randomly guessing which diode to desolder. Thanks in advance!

The Hori PS4 VLX thread

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I have been waiting for a new VLX for awhile. Who is preordering one? I am tempted although I already have a VLX diamond. The only downside is it comes with shitty Kuro buttons.

What are your guys thoughts?

Issues concerning Myoungshin Fanta

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Hello everyone! I'm fairly new to this site, but I've been wanting to get some assistance with the new joystick which I have ordered. So far, the Myoungshin Fanta seems great, and it's very responsive when I want it to be. However, I have a set of questions about this joystick.

1) Why is there an odd wobble whenever you gently shake the stick? Is this a normal occurrence?

2) For some reason, the dust cover that came stock with the Myoungshin seems to keep catching on where the shaft is held. Why does it do this?

3) Upon further inspection of the joystick itself, I noticed that one of the microswitches seemed to be slightly bent. I bought this off of FocusAttack, and even on their site, it looked like the switches were slightly bent towards the end of the switch itself. Are they supposed to be this way?

These three things concern me a ton, however I'm not the brightest when it comes to Korean sticks, since I'm new to modding arcade sticks. Thank you!

Will a sanwa octagon restrictor plate fit the blee?

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Hey guys, noobie here. Just bought my first arcade stick controller, for my nintendo switch. I bought the 8bitdo nes30 arcade. I already ordered sanwa buttons. Now I just need the stick.

Is it true that sanwa sticks are a pain to put on the nes30 because of the 5 pin connector? If so, then I'm looking at the blee arcade controller.

The question is,

Will this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004AU0H4U/

Fit into this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0F52P9/

Street Fighter 15th Anniversary Stick?

Arcade stick disconnecting!?

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Just bought a brand new Qanba Drone as my first fight stick. For some reason my playstion 4 keeps disconnecting the stick! Is it the usb ports on the PS4 or is it the stick!? I can normally play for 10 minutes without a problem and then I get a "controller disconnected" message. Any help will be awesome!

** Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN **

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Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN!

We have now re-launched the web shop with new design, additional url (akishop.jp) and even more great products at quality prices!
What you get when you buy from us is that we buy directly from the manufacturer and then ship it from Japan directly to the customer. Picture of your order before shipping is sent out to the customer as standard.
If you have any questions then feel free to post them in this thread and I will try my best to answer them.

Arigato :).
AkihabaraShop.jp


***Disclaimer***

Akihabara Shop is not responsible for packages lost or damaged during transit. We will always take a photograph of your order before shipping out, but when it is shipped it is out of our hands. We cannot be held responsible for customs or other local taxes imposed when a parcel reaches its destination, please find out what applies to your country before ordering.

Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more

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We have been floating around for a little while posting and received a recommendation to start a thread. Paradise Arcade Shop is based in Hawaii, working to bring a variety of controls to the arcade and fight stick market. We carry a number of different options for price points in both sticks and buttons, but we only sell products that we would use. That means, there is a difference between a Porsche and a Toyota, we see a place for both of those in the market, and we won't sell Toyota's at Porsche prices.

I say "we" as Ponyboy likes to harass me about, because the company is my wife and I. For those of you who have ordered already(thank you) she packs the orders and answers about 90% of the emails (mostly logisitics, but she is answering the "How to I light an LED" questions now) This is also her full time job and my part time job. She works hard to send out all stock items in 1-2 days, and rides my ass about the cutsom builds so they stay close to 1-3 days(We build LED sticks to order, and some of our game systems)

I have been an active membe of KLOV, Coinopspace, and BYOAC for sometime, and we sell on EBAY and Amazon. I will probably edit the intro down in the future, but I wanted just let people know who "we" are and who I am. Thank you for all the support and orders we already have received and now...it's time for the good stuff!

Mortal Kombat 9 Stick mod products!!!!! If you want new controls with the same forms to just upgrade your stick try some of these IL products and microswitch upgrades.

Translucent Concave IL buttons - A great upgrade to your stick, especially with...

IL-lumination LED pads - Available in RGB or single color
[media=youtube]P7zdGGsF2oI[/media]

IL Eurosticks provide "Happ Competition" Style with an upgrade in quality

And, for amazing light touch, upgrade any Happ or IL button to our 20 gram micros (Please note that these are 20 gram max spec and really are closer to 15 grams of actuation force)

We also carry JLF's, JLW's, LS-32, LS-32-01, LS-40, PS-14-KN pushbuttons, re-released PS-14-K Skeleton buttons, Paradise LED sticks, custom ball tops and a variety of hollow shafts(we also have 10 new custom hollow shafts on order, need a long JLF shaft or want to put a ball top on a Eurostick joystick?)

Finally... we have two new ball tops in, Pearls and Emerald Green that will be available shortly and were built to match the Rollie Buttons.
IMG_6424.JPG
And the answer is "Yes, the pearl will light up."
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