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PS4 Fightstick TE2+ Help!

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Hi All

I have been around the fighting community for a long time but just decided to create an account to ask for help on my fightstick.

I bought a display fight stick TE2+ for a good price and when I brought it home to test it out. The "Square" button doesn't work (top row far left, which would translate to light punch). All the other buttons work.

I popped up the panel and switched the wires to test if the button is faulty but it isn't. The wire harness for the "Square" button isn't working. Should I get a new harness or is it the PCB board?

Any ideas on this?
Please help.

Thanks!

The Official Qanba Fightstick Thread (New products Coming)

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Hello everyone:

My name is Xianglong, QANBA's marketing manager. I'm making this thread the official QANBA thread. We will use this thread to release any new informations and to answer any questions regarding to our QANBA fightsticks. Mean while, any advices or complains can also be bosted at this thread. You are more than welcome to give us your valuable opinions.

In order to meet gamers' needs, we will constantly enhance and improve our fightsticks. Our goal is to provide extreme gaming enviroments to arcade gamers. Enjoy your game, Enjoy QANBA. We hope you like our fightsticks!

Qanba Dragon Arcade Joystick

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Qanba Crystal Wired USB Joystick

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Qanba Drone Arcade Joystick
June 2016
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8 Directions
Easy to learn
Easy to combo

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Qanba Guardian backpack
June 2016

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Qanba Carbon Arcade Joystick
June 2016

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"Defender" QanBa Fighting Stick backpack
April 2013

•Fits most modern joystick models up to 19 inches long
•Hemp-style durable fabric
•Detachable plush felt interior liner
•Dual snap-buckles for easy access
•Triple auxiliary zipper pockets
•Dual water bottle stretch pockets
•25 x 15 x 8 inches

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QANBA New Q1

•Products compatible systems compatible PS3 console, computers, automatic identification procedures
•Computer, no drivers, computer systems automatically identify connection, plug and play
•Use QANBA latest motherboard, support firmware upgrade
•PC/PS3 mode to support joystick bursts bursts need to meet the specific game
•Product added hidden closing box design, increasing the portable performance
•Re-define the the START key bit position, and function keys are embedded design to prevent the occurrence of misuse
•The back of the product design a removable fixture kit, more accurate operation
•State have folders without folder, the stick provides two operating angle selection. On the table at the same time there folder (placed in use) angle can adjust their own size
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QanBa Q2PRO
2012-5-18
Q2PRO Product Description:
The QanBa Q2pro is a quality arcade fight stick that uses top of the range Sanwa parts and is compatible with PlayStation 3 & PC. This QanBa Q2PRO is also compatible with left hand play joystick or right hand play joystick. Function control panel below buttons , Hidden carrying handle ,Firmware upgrade .It is very easy to mod, should you wish to change the joystick/buttons etc.
Q2PRO standard edition:Straight layout
Q2PRO Professional edition :Vewlix layout
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· Hidden carrying handle
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· USB Port (support PS3 USB Headset ,PS3 USB Keyboard)
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· compatible with left hand play joystick or right hand play joystick
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QanBa Q4
2012-2-28

QanBa Q4 eLivePro|Kindevu

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QanBa Q4 eLivepro|RF
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QanBa Q4 eLivepro|D44BAS


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2011-11-25

Q4 RAF ICE RED 3in1 coming

clear red case
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clear red handle
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sanwa clear buttons
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2011-11-12
Qanba stick Bag

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2011-8-28
Q4 RAF 3in1 (white)

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Q4 RAF 3in1 ice blue 6 button( Artwork design: MINSK, Germany )

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2011-7-10

Q4 RAF ICE-BLUE FOR PC release 10th July 2011 in China

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clear plexi

easy replace artwork

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sanwa joystick and sanwa buttons(OBSF-30DB,OBSF-24DB)

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Seimitsu joystick and PS-14-KN,OBSF-24

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blue translucent case

easy change joystick or buttons

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Sample 3D Artwork

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2011-3-18
Q4 RAF 3in1 will release 28th March 2011 in China
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2011-2-21

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2011-1-18
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Q3 Wired Fightstick Q3 QanBa-Empire(For PS3/PC 2in1) Will Listing

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Q3 Wired Fightstick Q3-XS(For XBOX360) Will Listing

Q3 Wired Fightstick Q3-XS(For XBOX360)

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QanBa 3 PS3/PC 2in1 wireless joystick will listing

Sample Pics

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UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

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Introduction -

Alright, folks, here it is, a fully consolized CPS2. And when I say fully consolized I don't mean with some monstrous external power supply and DB 15 connectors that require custom joysticks or adapters. I'm talking about a setup where everything is "off the shelf."

The core elements of this project are: Power, Video, and Controls:

Power - Internal DC/DC converter. An off the shelf laptop charger supplies this board with power which is then converted to proper voltages necessary to run everything inside.

Video - [NTSC] Composite, S-Video, and low resolution RGB+S (no Component). Uses a standard off the shelf Playstation A/V port cable.

Controls - 2 Player XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support. Yes, you just plug and play.

Photos of one of my prototypes:

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Location Tests -

Devastation 2011 - Phoenix, AZ (early prototype, hard-wired controls)
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EVO 2012 - Las Vegas, NV (prototype, XBOX 360 support)
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AIAB This is It! 2012 - Tucson, AZ (prototype, PS3 & XBOX 360 support)
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ST Games @ EVO 2013 - Las Vegas, NV (production, PS3 & XBOX 360 support)
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F.A.Q. -

Ordering:
Q: What am I getting exactly?
A: You will receive a modified system (CPS2 A Board), power adapter (100-240V AC), video cable (Composite & S-Video), and USB cable for future firmware updates to the controller interface. You will still need a game (CPS2 B Board), TV (CRT with S-Video recommended), and controller (X360 or PS3).

Q: Can I pre-order one of these now?
A: Yes! I have not opened an official sales thread, but for the time being you can send me a PM or e-mail me: udgametech [AT] gmail.com

Q: So, how does ordering work, exactly?
A: Just let me know that you want to order a system and I will respond with an order number and an estimated time to complete it. When your order is being built, I will send you a payment request, after which you will have 2 weeks to make payment or forfeit your order position.

Q: How much does shipping cost?
A: It depends on which country you live in. USA is $20. Other countries vary.

Q: What forms of payment do you take?
A: This also depends on which country you live in. USA: PayPal (shipping only to verified address), money order, bank transfer, or personal check. Other countries: bank transfer or money order.

Q: I already have an A Board. Can I save money on my order and just send you mine?
A: Yes. You can receive $30 off of your order for each A-board sent (you can send multiple). However, you are not guaranteed to receive the exact board you sent (it is difficult to keep track of who sent what when they are disassembled in batches). Two other reasons to send me an A Board would be 1.) you would like an ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange compatible system, or 2.) you want an absolutely mint condition A Board and you happen to have one.

Q: I already have a laptop power supply. Can I save money on my order and just use mine?
A: No. I'd rather you start with a setup that has already been guaranteed to work than spend any time trying to figure out why power supply x isn't working properly.

General:
Q: What region/color B Board (Game Cartridge) will run on the UD-CPS2?
A: The standard compatibility for the UD-CPS2 is US/Blue and JP/Green (and RENTAL/Yellow, as far as I know). If one desires to play ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange games, a custom order can be placed for a unit which is compatible with (only!) one of those.

Q: Will this still work on an arcade cabinet?
A: No. Even if the JAMMA connector were exposed, there are still technical reasons for it not being able to run both ways.

Video Related:
Q: I'm tired of lugging around a heavy CRT TV to gatherings/tournaments. Being able to hook this up to a monitor would be a huge convenience. Is there any way to have Component Video available for this?
A: Not natively. You could run the UD-CPS2's RGBS output through an RGB to Component transcoder (like this) to output 240p Component Video, but any HD monitor (that actually supports 240p) must upscale that resolution in order to display it. Upscaling inevitably adds lag to your setup, therefore (non-HD) CRTs are the lag free display of choice for this system.

Q: I would like to stream/capture video from this unit. Do you have a recommended setup?
A: In the realm of standard resolution, the highest video quality for the least amount of hardware headache is certainly S-Video. By simply running S-Video and Stereo Audio to a distribution amplifier (like this or CE Labs AV 400SV) you can run both the player setup and stream/capture setup at excellent quality with fairly little extra hardware/cabling.

Q: Will this output PAL video?
A: No. There are no immediate plans to add PAL support.

Controller Related:
Q: Will all PS3 and XBOX 360 controllers work with UD-CPS2?
A: This cannot be guaranteed, but based on location testing, it certainly works with the majority. Also, the controller interface firmware can be updated via USB, so future firmware updates may expand controller support as more data is gathered.

Q: Can USB controllers other than XBOX 360 & PS3 be used?
A: No. I'd like to add support for other controller types in the future, though.

Q: Can buttons be re-mapped?
A: Yes, all buttons except for START and SELECT are able to be mapped to any one of the 6 Punch/Kick buttons.

Q: Can directions be re-mapped?
A: No.

Spinoff Products -

For those of you looking to add XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support to your own superguns, I will be making discrete USB Decoders, soon. There's a dedicated thread for those here:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/186701/undamned-s-usb-decoders-usb-to-jamma-etc/p1

I will also be making available the internal DC/DC converter used in the UD-CPS2 so people can use those in their own consolization/supergun projects! When those are available, I will update this post with a link to a separate thread.

The rest of this thread is a work log from early in the project up to the present...

Moledcule: Kaimana Theme Builder, Compiler, Flasher... ...you design... ...we code!

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Updates
Reserved Post For Updates

Sunday, April 4, 2017
v1.0.6 kaimana restore bug

Sunday, March 12, 2017
v1.0.5 balltop fix

Wednesday, February 15, 2017
v1.0.3 now with balltop LED selector
this is my valentines day gift to you all :heart:

Friday, January 7, 2017
v1.0.2 Windows 10 Device Fix

Friday, January 6, 2017
v1 Fixed Windows Version for Device

Wednesday, December 1, 2016
v0.9.9 Changed apps window bounds

Friday, November 25, 2016
v0.9.8 Patched Cross Color Fading (throw, focus, taunt)

Wednesday, November 23, 2016
v0.9.7 Minor bug fix (LED miscount on menu buttons)

Tuesday, November 22, 2016
v0.9.4 Added layouts for neopixel ring
v0.9.5 Hot patch (facebook bug fix)
v0.9.6 Hot patch (profile bug fix)

Monday, November 21, 2016
v0.9.3 Hot patch (minor bug fix)

Sunday, November 20, 2016
v0.9.2 Hot patch of app release in Chrome App Store
thank you testers

Saturday, November 19, 2016
v0.9.1 first wide release


Update Chrome App

Go ahead, delete mod. I found appropriate topic to post in.

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Delete me, I found proper discussion to post in.

Replaced my JLF in my TE

Neo Geo X Stick Help

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0Sorry if this is repetitive. I looked.
I got a Neo Geo X stick when they were cheap, and I've been trying to make it playable since. The lever is my main concern. When the actuator is against the gate, any extra pressure results in a grinding sensation and a lurch further out. It feels kind of like it's jumping a curb. After much assembly and disassembly, switching parts out, and scratching my head, it appears the pivot is jumping out of "center" and causing this. I have tried an LS-56 spring. I've tried a small washer above the pivot. I've tried a JLF washer up against the body. So far, anything that tightens it up enough to avoid the "jump" makes it too tight to play at all.

Any advice? Anyone with a similar problem? I'm getting close to salvaging the PCB and scrapping this thing. I've even considered using industrial adhesive or epoxy to permanently mount the lever body out of my old T6 wireless (yes, an old white plastic Hori is better then this thing at present). Ideas?

Find a Next Gen Arcade stick build in Headset jack.

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Have song of the game+micro is the best feature of the X1 / PS4.

For tournament if your arcade stick is build in headset jack you can have your own headset with you and have song of the game.
And for home is a good feature too , no need more cable.

Sadly the first New Gen Arcade stick don't have headset jack...

I hope next or another brand will make it....

in waiting does somebody can build a custom stick build headset jack for X1 /PS4 ?

Know How: The Mad Catz Pro Cable

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Hello everybody... I am making this PSA to give you the details on the Pro Cable that are used in a majority of Mad Catz high end controller and joysticks since there is not much info that I can find in the internet about them. The cable is the most vulnerable part in a joystick/controller that may fail from excessive external forces (wire trip, stressful bending, pet chew). And as we know currently, the only way to obtain a spare Pro Cable would be to either buy a joystick/controller that comes with it or find a seller online that sells the cables by itself. Oh, and Mad Catz used to sell spare Pro Cables but now only give out the cables for warranty purposes.

There are a few people in this forum that made an assumption or jumping into conclusion thinking that Mad Catz uses a "proprietary" plug on their Pro Cables for their own benefits. I would like to say that these plugs are not proprietary, nor are they unique... I know this because I was reading the TE2+ Product Guide that had a picture of the Pro Cable connectors and at that moment while servicing my soldering iron, I've noticed the connector on my soldering pen look striking similar to the Pro Cable connector.
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A familiar connector in the soldering iron.

So after doing a quick search online, I have found out that they were using aviation connector (used in a few obscured electronic devices). The aviation connector do come in different sizes and pin count and the Mad Catz Pro Cable specifically uses a GX12 5-pin aviation connector. So, I went to eBay and bought an aviation connector for around 1 dollar and have to wait almost a month for shipping since the seller is at China.
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Same pin count, different size.

Once the connector has arrived, it comes with a male connector and a female connector.
The male connector is mounted to the panel of your box and wires are soldered from the connector itself to the controller pcb, while the female connector clamped and solder to the usb cable end.
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A closer look of the aviation connector.

Closer inspection on the connectors show that they are notched for correct connectivity and each individual pins are labeled with numbers.
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A macro shot of the numbering on the connector.

I have gotten a hand on the Mad Catz Pro Cable and used a multimeter to do a continuity test on each pins of the connector with the corresponding end of the usb plug. Oh, by the way, the Pro Cable does fit perfectly on the male end of the aviation connector in case you are wondering.

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Pro Cable connector on the left and female aviation connector on the right.

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Fits like a glove.

So, here are the results of the continuity test:
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Pin 1 - (Green): Data +
Pin 2 - (White): Data -
Pin 3 - (Red): +5V
Pin 4 - (Black): Ground
Pin 5 - (Black): Shield

Overall, the information that I have posted here is to give everyone an option on creating their own custom Pro Cable or maybe even installing the aviation connector in their own box. The benefits of installing the GX12 aviation connector over the Neutrk USB would be the size of the mounting hole (12mm vs 24mm), the cable would be screw lock into place, and the cost... while the only drawback that I see will be the soldering requirement. Now that you all know, knowing is half the battle... thank you for reading and have a nice day.

Edit: New pic link via Imgur... Photobucket tried to break me. :tongue:

Dreamcast TDC Final V2 and Dreamcast Padhacking

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anyone still providing padhacking for dreamcast? im looking to build an arcade cabinet using a dreamcast. and if someone could point me to where i can get a hold of the TDC Final, i would appreciate it. thanks.

Lag input on tv

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I have a TCL 55 inch 4k smart tv (55s401 series) and there is a massive input lag from my computer to tv. I've put it into gaming mode but that only changed it's slightly, I've also turned off features and nothing really helps.

I have checked my graphics card on my computer and it does support 4k output, HDMI cord is good at least to my knowledge. My question is if you've experienced this problem how did you end up fixing it or if anyone has any knowledge of how to fix it please let me know I've tried everything I could think of.

Sorry if this is an incorrect place to post this, if this is incorrect maybe someone can point me in the right direction?

rendering help

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Ok, i need your eyes for this video footage test. I am trying to render a video in 60 fps but it not working out so great so i am going down to 24 fps in my render(thank you youtube for being shitty). You’re going to see two video’s in these test footage. One is the mp4 to mpeg2 video in 1080-24p and the other is the fla/ts video to mpeg2 1080-24p with no sound. Please click on the links and tell me which is best and can you tell from any motion blur or shuttle’s in these video’s. While telling me what is best the mp4 or fla/ts video. Both video’s are not modify with no color correction or sharpness. Also please view these video’s on your pc or smart tv then a cellphone.

1. mp4 to mpeg2 1080-24p
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2. fla/ts video to mpeg2 1080-24p
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Hori Hayabusa joystick magically became stiffer

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I used to mess with my Hayabusa stick with different springs and such and eventually I put in the old spring back inside and it miraculously felt stiff, which for me it isn't a bad thing. But does anyone know any possibilities as to how it became stiffer? And is it bad for the stick at all? I'm just wondering because the feel of this stick is unique to other Hayabusas and I want to replicate it.

Brook Sniper: Giving the FGC (& FPSC) Options

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Brook released the sniper and one of the ancillary features is the usb port on the back. It basically acts as a Brook plug and play auto detect Universal Fighting Board. I've tried every unboxed stick & pad I own from various consoles at it and so far it works on the PS4 and is hot swappable. Also there is a 3.5mm input for audio\voice on PS4, an easier way to use your 3.5mm headsets with sticks and pads lacking this option and for folks not using USB\BT headsets.
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•End goal is to provide a comprehensive list of everything you need to know about this converter and with it's unique properties I believed it was owed its own thread. As I have more time (If you own the Brook Sniper as well feel free to post your own discoveries or tests and I'll update this OP) with the sniper I plan to test & upload video(s) on the following;

Input Lag
  • Will use the 60fps recorded video method on USFIV & then SFV per pad/stick.
  • Will test input lag with eTokki PSXto360 & Brook PS2toPS4 adapter.
  • Will compare input lag with a native PS4 stick plugged in directly to the PS4 and the same PS4 stick plugged into the Brook Sniper as a pass through.

Compatibility With Other Consoles
  • 360, XB1, PS3, PC & MAC

Disassembly & The Guts of This Device
  • Mini UFB inside?
  • Modular?
  • Can it be scaled down and used specifically for the converter and 3.5mm headset properties?

Valuable Use
  • I can see the Sniper being used at your local eSport Centers or even zealous TOs. Mount two of these adapters near/to each PS4/Console and advertise the ability for customers/contestants to bring the Stick/Pad of their choice from any console. Or Keyboard & Mouse for the FPS crowd or that one player you know that prefers playing SF on their keyboard.
  • Players with multiple adapters can consolidate into this one adapter albeit a larger form factor, unless we find we can scale down the adapter's pcbs.
  • Brook future support for Tournament Mode, I've tested some Macros for Keyboard\Mouse on a FPS but haven't tried creating a Macro for SFV.
  • The micro USB has a USB that has another USB piggy backed onto it. Only 1 of the USB's need to be plugged into the console, the other USB is only needed if your KB&M draw enough current to require it or the Gamepad\Arcade Stick port draws enough current to require it. Only plugging in the primary USB frees up the only other USB port available on the original PS4s. A powered USB hub can be used here as needed as well.
  • I can use my mechanical keyboard as a hit box! Kind of, worked fine for shotos but I could not register a 360 motion in SFV? Will try USFIV and other fighters\consoles.
  • Pad\Stick and KB&M all remain under 1 PSN profile
  • Hotswapping a Pad\Stick when a KB&M is plugged in doesn't trigger a new PSN profile login (saves a few seconds of next user to just sit down and play instead of picking a PSN profile)
  • Hotswapping a Pad Stick without KB&M plugged in untested
  • 3.5mm Audio plugin support for PS4, untested for other consoles but brooks advertises it only works for PS4

    I'very started a video series for Brook for providing this review unit from a FPS perspective;
    The playlist will stay the same but will automatically have more videos on the playlist as the videos reach their scheduled date and time for public viewing.
    • Unboxing Video @ 3/3/17
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    • Initial Impression for FPS/OW @ 3/4/17
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    • 5 Weekly Videos @ 3/5/17 and every Sunday for 5 wk.'s, follows a Master Rank Overwatch player go from DS4 to a Corsair Strafe KB & a Razer Imperator
      • image
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    • Final Impression for use on FPS/OW: Available after 5th week
    • Comparison to Xim4 @ TBD
    • Hotswapping Sticks and pads demonstration on PS4 @ TBD
    • Various Input Lag test @ 4/20/17 more to come
    • Razer Panthera with upgrade FW: 1.01 vs HFC4 & HRAPVX connected to the PS4 via Brook Sniper
    • image

    **I Will update the first post with the new info as it's created and post the new edits in the reply posts.
    **If you own a Brook Sniper or have access to one anything you test or discover update the rest of us and I'll add it to this OP.

Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.) !

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Intro:

Well, folks, it's been a long time coming, but I'm really close to finally getting these things out there and into your hands!

Description:

This is the opposite of boards like Toodles' Cthulhu or the PS360 which take the button/joystick wire signals and turn them into USB. This takes input from your USB 360 or PS3 controller and turns that into button/joystick wire signals. You could use this to control any number of projects from Superguns to robotics, to anything you can imagine that you'd like to control with your digital 360 or PS3 joystick!

These are essentially the same circuit and firmware as that of the UD-CPS2 (ran at multiple major events including ST Games @ EVO, The Fall Classic, etc.).

Target price is $35 for the Screw Terminal version and $40 for the DB15 version.

Screw Terminal Version Features:

- Terminal Blocks for solder free wiring (signal layout intentionally similar to MC Cthulhu so you can mate them for fun things like TE stick on SNES)
- USB A Socket
- Alternate header for USB signals - for people who don't to use the on-board USB socket
- Indicator LED - bi-color, red/green
- Alternate header for LED signals - for people who don't to use the on-board LED
- Pull-Up Selection Jumper - allows for pulling button/joystick signals up to +5V or +3.3V, depending on the application
- Player Select Jumpers - tell the joystick to light up the appropriate controller LED (can be set for P1-P4)
- Custom button mapping - for 6-8 action buttons
- Firmware can be updated via USB for future features/improvements

History:

Here's what @Rufus did with a couple boards which were used at SoCal Regionals, early last year:

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(sweet 3D printed case by @Rufus not included)

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(running on a supergun at SoCal Regionals 2013)

Future:

I will continue to improve the firmware features as I have time.

Let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!

Resources:

User Manuals / Firmware - http://udgametech.blogspot.com/p/firmware.html

Ordering:

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com (search for "undamned")
https://www.akishop.jp (search for "usb decoder")

-ud

new switch snes wireless pad

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man just found these on amazon said to be released in december
https://www.amazon.com/8Bitdo-Wireless-Controller-Classic-super-nintendo/dp/B074HBQ78V/ref=pd_cp_63_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=9QSWPY7MF4Z6K9VX2N70&dpID=41BGv5hYzUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail&th=1

man they look sow ell made they also make some with analog controls and 4 back buttons compatible with steam ect these are gonna be amazing im glad i didnt buy the buffalo pad yet i may do it anyway to compare them since they claim they are the best atm

Hori Hayabusa Silent Optical Joystick In TE2+?

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I'm thinking bout picking up the Hori Hayabusa Silent Optical Joystick. I hear it has a 6 pin harness and comes with a 6 pin cable. Is it possible to adapt this to my standard 5 pin harness while keeping my current cable stock?

Madcatz TE2+ HACK

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hello everyone i have a madcatz te2+ (the one with ryu in the artwork) and I modded the fightstick with the brook ufb and Jason ez mod. Now I have the original pcb for the stick and I wondering has any one ever tried to hack this and make another fightstick with it? If so could any one help me with such a thing

Controller from Makestick.com not shipping, any experiences?

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Hello,
i ordered a IST DIVA CON from Makestick.com. I paid over Paypal and get no responses from them, not
even an order transmitted mail or something.
I mailed two of their mail-adresses but no response. Seems like a slow shop, or eventually a scam?
Someone got any experiences with that shop?
I just want a Hastune Miku Controller :(

The Hori PS4 VLX thread

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I have been waiting for a new VLX for awhile. Who is preordering one? I am tempted although I already have a VLX diamond. The only downside is it comes with shitty Kuro buttons.

What are your guys thoughts?
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