Venom arcade stick PS4/PS3

February 3, 2015, 9:49 am

≫ Next: Brook Sniper: Giving the FGC (& FPSC) Options

≪ Previous: Real Arcade Pro. 4 Kai vs Real Arcade Pro N Hayabusa suggestions.

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Hi guys!
do you have heard anything about the Venom PS4 arcade stick? I take a look at the description and photos(since it´s the only thing we got) and it looks like the mayflash V2, the case looks the same used on the mayflash v2.
Since the descrition says it has premium quality parts (I dont know what they call premium quality parts) I assume it comes with sanwa or seimitsu parts. The color of the buttons and balltop looks navy, so maybe it has the PS-15 navy(I dont believe but it´s the only quality buttons I know with that color). The price is 75€($86), a nice chance to get a PS4 stick. It looks nice btw, here is some photos:





I was looking on the net and I found other PS4 stick with the same name but different in all aspects, looks a kind of cheap one, here is it:

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Brook Sniper: Giving the FGC (& FPSC) Options

March 2, 2017, 10:21 pm

≫ Next: Brook Mars Wired PS3/PS4/Switch Gamepad

≪ Previous: Venom arcade stick PS4/PS3

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Brook released the sniper and one of the ancillary features is the usb port on the back. It basically acts as a Brook plug and play auto detect Universal Fighting Board. I've tried every unboxed stick & pad I own from various consoles at it and so far it works on the PS4 and is hot swappable. Also there is a 3.5mm input for audio\voice on PS4, an easier way to use your 3.5mm headsets with sticks and pads lacking this option and for folks not using USB\BT headsets.


•End goal is to provide a comprehensive list of everything you need to know about this converter and with it's unique properties I believed it was owed its own thread. As I have more time (If you own the Brook Sniper as well feel free to post your own discoveries or tests and I'll update this OP) with the sniper I plan to test & upload video(s) on the following;

Input Lag

• Will use the 60fps recorded video method on USFIV & then SFV per pad/stick.
• Will test input lag with eTokki PSXto360 & Brook PS2toPS4 adapter.
• Will compare input lag with a native PS4 stick plugged in directly to the PS4 and the same PS4 stick plugged into the Brook Sniper as a pass through.

Compatibility With Other Consoles

• 360, XB1, PS3, PC & MAC

Disassembly & The Guts of This Device

• Mini UFB inside?
• Modular?
• Can it be scaled down and used specifically for the converter and 3.5mm headset properties?

Valuable Use

• I can see the Sniper being used at your local eSport Centers or even zealous TOs. Mount two of these adapters near/to each PS4/Console and advertise the ability for customers/contestants to bring the Stick/Pad of their choice from any console. Or Keyboard & Mouse for the FPS crowd or that one player you know that prefers playing SF on their keyboard.
• Players with multiple adapters can consolidate into this one adapter albeit a larger form factor, unless we find we can scale down the adapter's pcbs.
• Brook future support for Tournament Mode, I've tested some Macros for Keyboard\Mouse on a FPS but haven't tried creating a Macro for SFV.
• The micro USB has a USB that has another USB piggy backed onto it. Only 1 of the USB's need to be plugged into the console, the other USB is only needed if your KB&M draw enough current to require it or the Gamepad\Arcade Stick port draws enough current to require it. Only plugging in the primary USB frees up the only other USB port available on the original PS4s. A powered USB hub can be used here as needed as well.
• I can use my mechanical keyboard as a hit box! Kind of, worked fine for shotos but I could not register a 360 motion in SFV? Will try USFIV and other fighters\consoles.
• Pad\Stick and KB&M all remain under 1 PSN profile
• Hotswapping a Pad\Stick when a KB&M is plugged in doesn't trigger a new PSN profile login (saves a few seconds of next user to just sit down and play instead of picking a PSN profile)
• Hotswapping a Pad Stick without KB&M plugged in untested
• 3.5mm Audio plugin support for PS4, untested for other consoles but brooks advertises it only works for PS4
  
  I'very started a video series for Brook for providing this review unit from a FPS perspective;
  The playlist will stay the same but will automatically have more videos on the playlist as the videos reach their scheduled date and time for public viewing.
  
  • Unboxing Video @ 3/3/17
  • Initial Impression for FPS/OW @ 3/4/17
  • 5 Weekly Videos @ 3/5/17 and every Sunday for 5 wk.'s, follows a Master Rank Overwatch player go from DS4 to a Corsair Strafe KB & a Razer Imperator
  • Final Impression for use on FPS/OW: Available after 5th week
  • Comparison to Xim4 @ TBD
  • Hotswapping Sticks and pads demonstration on PS4 @ TBD
  • Various Input Lag test @ 4/20/17 more to come
  • Razer Panthera with upgrade FW: 1.01 vs HFC4 & HRAPVX connected to the PS4 via Brook Sniper
  
  **I Will update the first post with the new info as it's created and post the new edits in the reply posts.
  **If you own a Brook Sniper or have access to one anything you test or discover update the rest of us and I'll add it to this OP.

Brook Mars Wired PS3/PS4/Switch Gamepad

November 1, 2017, 5:37 am

≫ Next: I need help fixing a Madcatz TES+ (SOS!)

≪ Previous: Brook Sniper: Giving the FGC (& FPSC) Options

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Even though I try to keep my ear to the ground for pads, sometimes something amazing slips by without me noticing.

http://shoryuken.com/2017/09/05/brook-announces-the-mars-wired-controller-for-playstation-4-playstation-3-switch-and-pc/

Brook, who makes those awesome arcade boards (The ones with virtually no lag, if I'm remembering right) have decided to make a controller, and it looks great!

I've recently figured out that while Hori makes really cool sticks - they make a name for themselves with sticks using other brands for the levels, and/or buttons.

That is why this: https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Arcade-Pro-PlayStation-4/dp/B00SULMRI4
Is so much better than this: https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Fighting-Stick-Mini-PlayStation-4/dp/B014KXMEW4

The top one is using HAYABUSA. Now for some reason I can't seem to figure out if Hori and HAYABUSA are two different companies, or if HAYABUSA is just the name for "Hori products that aren't 'meh' at best."

Ether way, it seems like if Hori doesn't use HAYABUSA tech, they end up with a 2.5/5 product.
And this is the case with their controllers - such as: https://www.amazon.com/Fighting-Commander-PlayStation-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01GVOFIAA

Now, maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think Brook products have that high/low end problem, so having Brook make a controller is very interesting.

Needless to say, I'm wanting information on it.

-Are the L and R Triggers buttons, or axis's?
-What motions do the 3 dpads specialize in - Which is easier to do with what dpads? (Between Hadoken, and Shoryuken)
-How much lag does this controller have over a Sony PS4 (CUH-ZCT2U) on a PS4 (Preferably non Pro)
-How much lag does this controller have over a Switch Pro Controller on a Nintendo Switch?
-How does the controller itself hold up on wear and tear?
-How does the dpad (Or how do the dpads) hold up on wear and tear?

-Are there any flaws and or faults?

Finally, does anyone know when I'll be able to buy one on Amazon again?

I need help fixing a Madcatz TES+ (SOS!)

November 1, 2017, 10:25 am

≫ Next: Crown 309mj feels to stiff

≪ Previous: Brook Mars Wired PS3/PS4/Switch Gamepad

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I recently bought a Madcatz TES+ off of ebay (that I knew had minor problems with it) and I could use some advice on how to fix it. When I plug it in the stick registers 'down' and 'downback' normally and 'downforward' registers as 'up' with the rest of the directions not working. When I got the stick all of the buttons were not wired correctly so I put all the colors in the right place but even still when I started up Blazblue it registered as 'R1' being pushed all the time so I unplugged it and still it was doing it so maybe it wasn't R1? When I did Tekken 3 buttons were all being pushed simultaneously. I need some help so please if anyone can lend advice it'd be greatly appreciated.

Here is an imgur post of some of the internals.. I can take more pictures if needed.. I also don't know anything about soldering but I have a friend who does and can help me out later if that's what needs to be done. https://imgur.com/a/NDOfq

I know I sound like a big noob but I've put sticks together before but this is throwing me for a loop

Crown 309mj feels to stiff

November 1, 2017, 5:47 pm

≫ Next: HORI Fighting EDGE

≪ Previous: I need help fixing a Madcatz TES+ (SOS!)

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Hello. I just recently modified my first fight stick with a new crown 309mj lever. My main complaint is that it feels to stiff and i would like to make it feel somewhat lighter and easier to move. I already have a low tension rubber (st 25). After playing around with it for a day i came to the conclusion that it was the switches that have high tension when i move the stick further away from neutral. Are there switches i can purchase with less tension to replace the ones that came with the crown? Ive heard the fantas are lighter but i dont know much about fight sticks to begin with. i recently tried to look for a site that has the FLF-ST Lever for purchase because i heard it was low tension and had light switches but i cant find it anywhere for sale. If there is no way to make my current lever feel less stiff is there other Korean style levers that can be recommended to me with a lighter feel?

HORI Fighting EDGE

May 7, 2012, 7:19 pm

≫ Next: Using NES30 arcade stick on PS3

≪ Previous: Crown 309mj feels to stiff

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I hope you all caught the unveiling of the Fighting EDGE last Wednesday on Level Up's Wednesday Night Fights!! We've opened up this thread to answer any questions you may have regarding the Fighting EDGE. Hit us up with any questions or feedback you may have!!

Using NES30 arcade stick on PS3

November 2, 2017, 2:05 pm

≫ Next: Mad Catz TE SF4 Stick stopped working.

≪ Previous: HORI Fighting EDGE

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Is there anyone to get the NES30 to work on the PS3?

Mad Catz TE SF4 Stick stopped working.

November 2, 2017, 10:21 pm

≫ Next: Recent Purchases and Good Finds

≪ Previous: Using NES30 arcade stick on PS3

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Hi,

I bought a VIA usb pci-e card to run the Mad Catz TE stick as needed, and the stick started working.
However after I shut-down my PC and turned it back on the buttons and stick stopped working but the PC still knows the sticks there.
I was wondering if anyone has a fix for this?
I tried uninstalling the stick drivers and the xhci usb host controller and re-installing them but no luck.

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Recent Purchases and Good Finds

August 23, 2009, 11:12 am

≫ Next: Sub 1 frame HDTV/Monitor Input Lag Database

≪ Previous: Mad Catz TE SF4 Stick stopped working.

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I've seen this on other forums lately and figured I would give it a try.

Pick up a HRAP for a steal? Find a SFAC stick at a garage sale? Post it here.

I'll start out:

I picked up a Namco PS1 stick for $40 shipped today. I've been after one for a while ever since MarkMan claimed it was his favorite stick. I have a few sticks now so I'm excited to give it a try.

Also recently got a ReKleSS Saturn to PS2 converter with a very nice condition Saturn pad for $42 from Ikagi-chan in the Trading Outlet. I was supposed to have gotten a PS2 Saturn pad a while back for $90 and I'm just as happy with this.

I know this isn't technically Tech Talk, but there's already a post about people's multi-thousand dollar entertainment setups. I won't posting be in there anytime soon.

Sub 1 frame HDTV/Monitor Input Lag Database

September 4, 2011, 2:41 am

≫ Next: SNES & PS360+ - Firmware Updated, should work, not working?

≪ Previous: Recent Purchases and Good Finds

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Purpose: To index input lag (average) results from various HDTVs and monitors that have sub 1 frame (16.66ms) of lag when compared to a CRT TV or Monitor.

Sources:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk - Test LCD monitors for input lag compared to a CRT monitor.

http://www.prad.de - Test input lag using an oscilloscope.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk - Test the latest HDTV's for input lag compared to a CRT display. (Which they started doing from April 2010)

The New Definitive HDTV Lag FAQ - Been through 55 pages (Will complete looking through the thread in the coming days) or so and will add the monitors or HDTVs that lag less than 1 frame compared to CRT. http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-new-definitive-hdtv-lag-faq.55593/

Testing Methods:


Please refer to TFTCentral's article on testing methods.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/input_lag.htm

Preferred Testing Program / Hardware:

SMTT v2.0 or Oscilloscope.

http://smtt.thomasthiemann.com/index_en.html (SMTT Homepage)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope (Info on Oscilloscopes.)

How you can help: If you find that I have missed a HDTV or Monitor that has sub 1frame (average) of lag compared to a CRT please link to the test and results. If everything checks out it will be added to the list.

HDTVs:

Sony 32W400 - 8.6ms input lag 32" 1080p

Panasonic TC-L32X1 - 8-9ms input lag 32" 720p

Samsung LE32C530 - 14ms input lag (Any mode) 32" 1080p (U.S model LA32C530)

Panasonic TX-P50ST50B - 16ms input lag 50" 1080p (U.S model TC-P50ST50)

Samsung UE32D5000 - 16ms input lag 32" 1080p (U.S model UA32D5000)

Samsung LE32C450 - 16ms input lag 32" 720p (U.S model LA32C450)

Panasonic TX-P42S30B - 16ms input lag 42" 1080p (U.S model TC-P42S30)

Panasonic TX-P42C3B - 16ms input lag 42" 1024×768

Panasonic TX-P42ST30B - 16ms input lag 42" 1080p (U.S model TC-P42ST30)

Panasonic TX-P50S20B - 16ms input lag (Game picture mode) 50" 1080p

Panasonic TX-P42GT20 - 16ms input lag (2D to 3D conversion mode only) 42" 1080p

Panasonic TX-P42VT20B - 16ms input lag (2D to 3D conversion mode only) 42" 1080p

Panasonic TX-P46VT20B - 16ms input lag (2D to 3D conversion mode only) 46" 1080p

LG 32LD450 - 16ms input lag (Game picture mode) 32" 1080p

Samsung PS51D550 - 16ms input lag (HDMI 1 input label set to PC) 51" 1080p (U.S model PN51D550)

Samsung PS51D6900 - 16ms input lag (HDMI 1 input label set to PC) 51" (U.S model PS516900)

Toshiba 47VL863B - 16ms input lag (Game picture mode) 47" 1080p

User Reviewed HDTV's:

An area for user reviews of HDTV's that don't have hard results, however according to the poster "feels" to have low input lag. This section was added due to the very limited number of HDTV reviews that actually test for input lag. So, these HDTV's listed might be worth trying out at a store for yourself.

Samsung UE32EH5000 - low input lag 32" 1080p User Review

Monitors:

Dell E228WFP - 3ms input lag TN Film 22" 1680x1050 (User Tested)

Dell S2330MX - 3.8ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

Acer S243HLAbmii - 3.8ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

Philips 273P3LPHES - 4.4ms input lag (SmartResponse "On") TN Film 27" 1920x1080

ASUS MS238H - 5.05ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

AOC e2352Phz - 5.1ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

Samsung C27A750X - 5.3ms input lag (Fastest setting enabled) TN Film 27" 1920x1080

BenQ XL2410T - 5.6ms input lag (Instant = On) TN Film 120Hz 24" 1920x1080

Sceptre X270W - 5.75ms input lag TN Film 27" 1920x1080

BenQ GW2750HM - 6ms input lag AMVA27" 1920x1080

BenQ GW2450HM - 6ms input lag AMVA24" 1920x1080

LG IPS231P - 6.9ms input lag (user mode) e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

ASUS MS246H - 6.9ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

ASUS VE228H - 7ms input lag TN Film 22" 1920x1080

Samsung SM245B - 7.5ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1200

Hazro HZ30W - 7.5ms input lag S-IPS 30" 2560x1600

Hazro HZ26Wi - 7.5ms input lag H-IPS 26" 1920x1200

Asus VG278H - 7.9ms input lag (at 60Hz) TN Film 27" 1920x1080

NEC EA232WMi - 8.1ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Dell U2311H - 8.2ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

ASUS VE247H - 8.3ms input lag TN Film 23.6" 1920x1080

ASUS VH236H - 8.3ms input lag (game mode) TN Film 23" 1920x1080 (A.K.A EVO MONITOR)

ASUS VH238H - 8.3ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

Dell G2410H - 8.59ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

Hazro HZ27WC - 8.8ms input lag H-IPS 27" 2560x1440

NEC EA231WMi - 8.8ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Asus PA238Q - 8.9ms input lag P-IPS 23" 1920x1080p (Factory Setting)

Dell U2312HM - 9.3ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

LG L227WT - 9.4ms input lag TN Film 22" 1680x1050

Viewsonic VX2739wm - 9.4ms input lag TN Film 27" 1920x1080

Dell U2412M - 9.4ms input lag e-IPS 24" 1920x1200

HP ZR24W - 10ms input lag e-IPS 24" 1920x1200

Samsung F2380 - 10.6ms input lag cPVA 23" 1920x1080

Dell U2311H - 10.6ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

HP ZR30W - 11.26ms input lag S-IPS 30" 2560 x 1600

Hazro HZ27WB - 11.3ms input lag H-IPS 27" 2560x1440

ASUS VG236H - 12ms input lag TN Film 120Hz 23" 1920x1080

LG E2711PY-BN - 12.9ms input lag TN Film 27" 1920x1080

Apple 27" Cinema Display - 12.73ms input lag IPS 27" 2560x1440 (Late 2010 model)

BenQ XL2420T - 13ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

Dell U2410 - 14.4ms input lag (Game mode) H-IPS 24" 1920x1200

Hazro HZ30Wi - 14.4ms input lag H-IPS 30" 2560x1600

LG IPS235V - 14.7ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Samsung 2233RZ - 15ms input lag TN Film 22" 1680x1050

ASUS ML239H - 15ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Dell U2211H - 15.6ms e-IPS 22" 1920x1080

Panel Technologies TN Film, MVA, PVA and IPS Explained

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/panel_technologies_content.htm

SNES & PS360+ - Firmware Updated, should work, not working?

November 3, 2017, 1:22 pm

≫ Next: Games that require Digital Stick for good gameplay, but don't default there

≪ Previous: Sub 1 frame HDTV/Monitor Input Lag Database

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Have a PS360+ and am trying to use it with SNES/SFC. The firmware is fully updated, so it SHOULD work, yet it doesn't. It's not the cable that's crimped, because the same cable works with two different MC Cthulhu sticks.

Is there a different pinout, or something with the PS360+ firmware itself?

Games that require Digital Stick for good gameplay, but don't default there

November 3, 2017, 5:31 pm

≫ Next: Hori Fighting Commander 4 not working on PS4 Slim

≪ Previous: SNES & PS360+ - Firmware Updated, should work, not working?

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I am planning on making my custom joystick for all my consoles from the 2600 to the switch. I notice some Mad Catz sticks had digital actuation of analog controls, by mapping it to LS.

First I'm going to assume unless the game controls in an analog manner, that a fight stick would be better than a pad. Second, I'm trying to have it wired to the d-pad of a real stick. It would cost extra money to wire it to a analog stick, plus the wiring would be more complicated, so therefore, I'm trying to take a survey of games that don't map to the d-Pad, but should.

An obvious first is all Atari 5200 games that use basic arcade controls, a digital to analog conversion hookup would be desirable, nay, mandatory. (Except for the few games like Kaboom, Missile Command, Star Wars the Arcade Game, Pole Position, and a couple others.) Plus wiring is simple. Because there's no d-pad/digital stick default, the ONLY wiring would be for the d->a-stick.

Every game up until the N64 would probably play better with a stick compared to a pad. I looked at my N64 collection, no game screamed "digital" except for games that default map to the d-pad, like Killer Instinct Gold and Mortal Kombat Trilogy.

Most PS1 games allowed use of the standard controller if it either doesn't need the analog-ness or the extra inputs. Most Saturn games use the standard pad unless it uses the analog stick, and even then it's not required.

Beyond that, I looked at my collection, I thought of only ONE game I know of, that should optimally be controlled with a D-Pad, but is ONLY controllable with an Analog stick, on it's BEST control option. That's Metal Slug Anthology for the Wii. The Game Cube controllers requires you to use the analog stick, and all other options are funny versions of motion controls. If that's the only game that has this wonky feature, I got the solution: the PS2 version of Metal Slug Anthology, which I bought when the analog stick wasn't quick enough.

Are there ANY games, without knowing my collection, where a digital actuation of an analog stick is vital, yet default analog controls are the norm and suck? It can be download, or retail, for any system from the N64 and up. I'm trying to see whether it's worth justifying the price of adding a joystick mapped to LS feature. Any game, any genre, any era (and don't list any fighting games where you can actuate with the D-pad, I'm doing a D-pad hack stick for each console.)

Hori Fighting Commander 4 not working on PS4 Slim

November 3, 2017, 6:32 pm

≫ Next: China Vewlix Clone Discharging electrical shock

≪ Previous: Games that require Digital Stick for good gameplay, but don't default there

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Anyone else had this problem?

I went to a local today, I played on PS3 and PS4 FAT and everything went well. I tried playing on a PS4 Slim and it didn't recognize the controller. PS Button didn't work, Restarting the console didn't work.

It seems logical to the problem to be that particular console, but earlier this year I had the same problem with a PS4 Slim during other event. Anyone sharing this experience?

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For the record, I padhacked the HFC4 PCB

It goes like: PCB---Neutrik----5m long USB A-B cable

China Vewlix Clone Discharging electrical shock

November 6, 2017, 4:47 am

≫ Next: Video Attenuation on Arcade Boards (Neo Geo MVS in particular)

≪ Previous: Hori Fighting Commander 4 not working on PS4 Slim

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I recently purchased a vewlix clone from china.
It works great and all but the metal conductive parts give off an electrical discharge (electrical shock kinda feel).
I suspect it is not properly grounded? can anyone advise.

I've a shot of the psu. not sure if it helps

Video Attenuation on Arcade Boards (Neo Geo MVS in particular)

September 23, 2017, 11:30 am

≫ Next: wow.. is it supposed to be this hard to buy an arcade stick?

≪ Previous: China Vewlix Clone Discharging electrical shock

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So not to long ago there was this huff on the internet about proper sync levels on the RGB cables on various Game Consoles.
And there these two competing standards for Csync on consoles, TTL Sync and 75Ω Sync (75Ω is named after the impedance on Consumer video displays).
Hence what spawned this post. The post here is copied from my Face Book post.

So I been looking into proper video attenuation for a Neo Geo MVS. I am posting my findings and hoping on some feedback.

I would post pics, but everything covered in heat shrink tubing and I do not feel like undoing everything now. And I didn't have the foresight to photograph before hand.
[Edit] I No longer have the attenuation circuits in the Scart head.

[EDIT 9/26/2017]
So I neglected to mention I have a MVS board MVH-MV1T. Apparently different boards have different output levels.


The most common thing to do is just top add some 1k adjustable Pots to the RGB lines. This works mostly fine for the bulk of Superguns for overall/generic compatibility. But I want to get the precise attenuation Neo Geo MVS.
I found I got the proper RGB Video Balance when I had a 75Ω Resistor and a 220 µF capacitors to the RGB Lines. This gives the NEO GEO MVS video the right levels of brightness, and the Caps provide some AC current filtering so there no return voltage on the input RGB lines.

As for the Sync, I believe the sync comes in at 5 volts peek TTL Sync. To get the sync closer NTSC specs, I followed the same attenuation circuit that is used properly wired Sega Genesis/Megadrive and Sega Master System Scart Cables. 470Ω going into a 10µF cap.

This does nothing for the picture quality per say but rather it avoids future burn-out consumer video equipment by bringing the sync signal down to the 75Ω impedance that consumer video equipment and TVs use.

Sources I used for my findings includes

Voultar's Poor SCART Cable Design w/ Analysis and Rework Tips
https://youtu.be/khl6x0S_bV0

René's dbGrafx Booster – Not Every SCART Cable is Created Equal
https://db-electronics.ca/2016/06/30/dbgrafx-booster-not-every-scart-cable-is-created-equal/

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wow.. is it supposed to be this hard to buy an arcade stick?

March 5, 2011, 10:33 pm

≫ Next: How to start implementing your own computer?

≪ Previous: Video Attenuation on Arcade Boards (Neo Geo MVS in particular)

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hello all, i'm new here.
i've never imagined in my wildest dream that it would be this hard to buy an arcade stick.
i live in vancouver (canada) and i thought i could just walk into one of those big name stores like futureshop and bestbuy to buy an arcade stick.
apparently not.
today, i've been to all over the place, including zellers, wallmart, futureshop, bestbuy, gamestop etc. and none of them carry what i'm looking for.
i was looking to buy any madcatz tournament edition arcade stick.
it looks like even ebay has only few (overpriced i think) madcatz te stick.
so i'm looking at hori sticks now on ebay but have no idea which ones are good.
can someone please tell me which one i should buy from these:

1.Hori Real Arcade Pro V3 SA
2.Hori Fight Stick EX2
3.HORI REAL ARCADE PRO EX SE
4.Hori Real Arcade Pro VX
5.Xbox360 Real Arcade PRO.EX Premium (this one seems too expensive.. my budget is under $200)

this will be my first arcade stick ever and i know absolutely nothing about arcade sticks, so please help me out! thanks.

How to start implementing your own computer?

November 6, 2017, 10:54 pm

≫ Next: Righthanding a Street Fighter anniversary stick

≪ Previous: wow.. is it supposed to be this hard to buy an arcade stick?

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Do somethings in free time, can I talk some off topic before my question? If I was hated my characters, is there anything ways to developed my life?Thanks.
The background for question:

As a first step I need to select a circuit board, CPU & RAM/ROM chips and I/O connectors. How do I select a board that can interconnect all these components? Perhaps you could give examples of a full configuration (board and chip models). What type of board would you recommend for a beginner (solderless, stripboard, PCB, ...) ?

Project Outcome: create a motherboard by myself to which I could connect a monitor and a keyboard and the monitor would display the keys I've typed. An additional extension would be receiving and sending data from a network interface.

Question background
I would like to start doing some hardware projects in my spare time.

I've been looking around on the internet for materials to understand how programs are executed on hardware. Two great resources I've found are the http://nand2tetris.org/ which I am currently undergoing and the raspberrypi motherboard which seems like a simple hardware platform to write your first OS. Given the understanding I can get about the basic workings of operating systems from those resources I would like to start to assemble my own motherboard using standard ICs and write programs for it.

Could you give some initial pointers on where to look for information regarding such kind of projects? In particular I have no idea which ICs would make up a working computer, which kind of board to use to assemble them, how to create the circuits between the ICs. Any kind of information on those basic things would be useful to get me started.

UPDATE:

Since the question seems to be considered vague (how else it could be if you need some kick-start information on an unknown topic) I would like to emphasize that I know programming (Java, C/C++, Python, Assembler x86), i've also done some projects in tools like OrCAD etc. The problems I am struggling with are:

I've never learned the basics for working with physical components
I have little knowledge in components other than general purpose CPU and RAM/ROM chips and how they interconnect with CPU and memory chips in order to make a working computer (the clock, power supply unit, keyboard/monitor/network interface units)
So given all this I need some pointer to resources that contain step-by-step instructions on buying the necessary components and assembling them into a working mini computer.
Thanks.

Righthanding a Street Fighter anniversary stick

October 17, 2017, 10:03 am

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I noticed something. My Street Fighter Anninersary stick is a pretty versatile stick. If I plug it into a PS2-> Xbox One converter, I can use the OS joystick remapping functions, and because the buttons are 2 rows of 4 buttons, American style, I can reprogram up it where up and down are switched, left and right are switched, and punches and kicks are switched vertically, but not horizontally, because you want your quick attacks at your index fingers and your consumable attacks at your pinky.

it may not be the most optimum lefty stick (from the perspective of an Atari 2600 joystick defining right hand stick) but most lefty sticks have the button contoured to the right hand, so when you flip the stick over and try to use it right handed, either one or both of 2 things happen. 1 it "smiles" at you, when a "frown" is a more optimal contour for joysticks, and 2) you have to backcock your left hand at a leftward angle, either or both of which become more uncomfortable right handed than just playing left handed.

Now I found a Street Fighter PS2/Org Xbox Anniversary Stick in the wild for like $20 many years ago. The only problem with it is that if I want the same righty formation on other systems, like Genesis, SNES, Saturn, PS1/2, Xbox, 360 and other systems, those adapters are not likely to have button remappers and are even less likely to have direction remappers. I have to rewire it at the source it is an accurate righty stick.

A couple of questions. 1) in order to mod it, is it as simple are reconnecting wires, or must I hire someone to solder it? 2) if it is as sipmle as reconnecting connectors, are there any directions on how to do it. 3) will I have to reconnect the Original Xbox and PS2 separately, or are they combined in one PCB? 4) how do both Retro adapters like the Tototek adapter as well as the modernizing and cross generation mappers work? Do they all tend to map it relative to the Street Fighter button layout of Quicks ion index, balanced on middle, hard on ring, super on pinky, meaning if it's correctly that way on a PS2 stick then the layouts will follow naturally without reprogramming? I need something for the dreamcast, preferable with VMU slot, and Game cube, I'd also like 360, Wii/ Wii U classic and Nintendo Switch adapters. The only problem with a switch converter is it doesn't do "double translations" like ps2-> Xbox One -> Switch or PS2-> PS3 -> Switch. going backwards, I'm looking for Saturn, N64, SNES, Genesis, TG16, NES, 7800, SMS, 5200, Coleco (both standard and super action, I've got games that only recognize the standard controller like Qbert's Qubes and The Activision Decathlon, and others just use the super action) Intellivision, 2600 and Bally Astrocade. If I had a game that would use it, I'd get one for the jaguar and 3DO, but the jaguar may not have pro controls, and the 3DO Tototek adapter doesn't have daisy chaining for multiplayer, and I have a Goldstar and that has some logical issues if it doesn't detect a daisy chain port.

If you want to see my real good ambidextrous design, visit http://www.56ok.org/Ambidextrous/index.htm I don't have much soldering skills, so if someone would like to complete my dream joystick there is a $250 deposit I'm willing to pay for the start of the job, which is more than most whole basic joysticks with no artwork. and more money in the future. I'll provide the controllers as both sacrifices to the alter of right handedness, as well as collateral to assure payment.

Ps4 venom arcade stick custom artwork required.

November 8, 2017, 7:51 am

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Hi all

Are there any members based in the uk e
Who offer printing and cutting of artwork for thr arcade stick above.
If so please get in touch.

Many thanks
K

Mad Catz Type-N Panel Artwork

November 8, 2017, 9:03 pm

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Now that Mad Catz is sadly defunct, does anyone know where one would be able to get that black artwork that came with the Type-N replacement panel? That artwork is super clean, and it would be a shame if it weren't available at all :(

Maybe someone can scan it???