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Official new covers for LS-40
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LF: Computer Repair in Tokyo
Hello Everyone,
I have a Macbook Pro 13" 2009 that a friend gave me and It has been water damaged. I was wondering if there were any SRKers here in Tokyo that can help me out by fixing this or finding a place to fix. I know very little Japanese and need all the help I can get.
thanks!
I have a Macbook Pro 13" 2009 that a friend gave me and It has been water damaged. I was wondering if there were any SRKers here in Tokyo that can help me out by fixing this or finding a place to fix. I know very little Japanese and need all the help I can get.
thanks!
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Help Dual Modding a Non-Common Ground PCB
Can someone guide me through dual modding a non-common ground 360 PCB? I've searched for hours and I understand I have to replace the PCB, but there hasn't been any step-by-step guide on how to do actually do the mod.
I have a Hori SCV stick and this is what it looks like inside of it:
![Brr6VTI.jpg]()
![xOIPKGd.jpg?1]()
I have a Hori SCV stick and this is what it looks like inside of it:
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TvC/Brawl sticks. Just how do their joysticks perform?
I'm just wondering how the joysticks in the post-TvC sticks work. I dont need them as main use controllers, just something to bring along with my mobile setup.
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Put Felt on Bottom Panel of Your Stick
I just did this to my stick today and wrote up an article about it. My site is pretty hokey, but I'm not a web designer so go easy on the criticisms please. I hope you enjoy.
http://nerdyvideogamestuff.com/default_ArcadeStickTweaksforCheap.htm
One of my favorite functional things about the EightArc arcade sticks is the felt bottom they use to prevent the stick from sliding around. I like it so much that last night, after I got done swapping parts between a HRAP3 and Amazon.co.jp HRAP2 and testing it, I realized I was not able to consistently perform inputs the way I could on the EightArc. This made me pay attention closely to my own inputs, and I realized the stick would slide just slightly, and the new angle threw me off enough to make a difference. After this realization I did a search and found that [SIZE=13px]Michaels [/SIZE]has adhesive-backed felt sheets, and it seemed that my problem would be solved (well, one of my problems. If I weren’t so bad at video games at my old age, I wouldn’t need to go through this effort). So off I went to Michaels. To play video games better. I know. It doesn’t sound right.
Read the rest here:
http://nerdyvideogamestuff.com/default_ArcadeStickTweaksforCheap.htm
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HORI Fighting EDGE
I hope you all caught the unveiling of the Fighting EDGE last Wednesday on Level Up's Wednesday Night Fights!! We've opened up this thread to answer any questions you may have regarding the Fighting EDGE. Hit us up with any questions or feedback you may have!!
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dual mod a mad catz fighting stick pro for ps3 to ps3/xbox360
Whats the best way for doin it? what should i buy? ive been looking for info and ive read some people do it with a fighting pad for xbox360...
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The Optical Joystick Discussion
I thought it would be pretty cool to start a thread dedicated to the discussion of optical joysticks. These include:
- The Happ/WICO Perfect 360 joystick
- The Sanwa JLHS-8Y FLASH 1 joystick
- The ASCII Answer (Optical) joystick
as well as recent reproductions:
- Toodles' Spark
- Rollie Electronics and Happ Controls' reproduction FLASH 1
What is an optical joystick and why should I care?
What's so great about optics? Well, the beauty of optical joysticks is that unlike their microswitch counterparts, there's not a single component on the PCB that moves. That means as long as you're not running these things out-of-spec, they'll last a really long time. The optical joysticks invented thus far have required +5V power to power their sensors and LEDs. All 5 sticks listed above have however been successfully installed onto PlayStation 1 and 2 era sticks without much of a hitch. This would normally be an issue since PS1 and PS2 PCBs output at only +3.3V.
All of the original joysticks been out of production for a long time. The Sanwa HS-ASSY FLASH 1 PCB was discontinued in 2006; the old WICO Perfect 360s have been out of production for maybe a decade (someone fact check me on this) and the ASCII optical joysticks were just hard to find to begin with. So, needless to say, if you want an original, you're going to have to prepare a chunk of cash to get it.
HOWEVER, do not be mistaken that just because they're reproductions that Toodles' Spark or Rolllie's FLASH 1 are any worse. They are reproductions, but they are based on the same design principles and standards that original optical joystick PCBs work on. They will work the exact same.
Where can I buy an optical joystick?
As stated, if you're looking to get an original optical joystick, be prepared to get some cash on hand because depending on which joystick you want, you're going to have to spend a LOT of cash. Here are some figures regarding the average going rate I've seen for these joysticks here on SRK's Trading Outlet:
WICO Perfect 360: $100.00 +/- $20.00
Sanwa JLHS-8Y FLASH 1: $200.00 (!) +/- $20.00
ASCII Answer (Optical): $120.00 +/- $20.00
And here's the price for the reproduction optical PCBs:
Toodles' Spark: $55.00 + shipping
Rollie's FLASH 1: To be determined
Except for the newer production Happ Perfect 360s, which you can get commonly from LizardLick for $39.95 plus shipping and handling, every other optical joystick ever made is out of production. Go figure why they're so sought after; the last time people were able to get an optical joystick for reasonable prices was around in 2006!![:wasted:]( ":wasted:")
If you are a fan of American parts you can still get a Happ Perfect 360 joystick from places like LizardLick. Just be aware that the newer Happ Perfect 360 joysticks are manufactured by Happ in their factories in China and the first batches of P360s have had issues with various aspects of the build; pivot grinding issues, diagonals not registering, and other issues have been noticed in the newer P360s (none of these reported issues have anything to do with the optics. If there were any optics issues, it's because you're not powering your joystick properly).
However, that was a few years ago when Happ first made the switch to their China factories. Today, their P360s are mostly issue free, though WICO P360 owners will tell you the new P360s "Just don't feel the same." You can get a newer Happ P360 for around $40.00 USD from LizardLick, but for a WICO P360, you're going to need to do a bit of hunting for them and shell out some more cash. I've seen WICO P360s go for around $120.00 here on SRK. The easiest way to tell if it was made by WICO or Happ is to look at the bottom of the joystick. If it was made by WICO, it will have "WICO" written on the bottom. If Happ, it will say "HAPP P360." There have been some cases where some people got a P360 without any writing on the bottom at all, and it's mostly been assumed that these are WICO P360s, but just be sure to ask.
If you are fan of Japanese parts and are looking to use an optical joystick, looking for an ASCII Answer (Optical) is probably your best bet. They're incredibly good in terms of build quality and you can find them for significantly cheaper than a Sanwa FLASH 1. Of course, you typically won't find them sold as just the joystick. The ASCII Answer is pretty elusive only because when you look for any possible ASCII joystick that might have them, people are worried about whether the stick they're buying actually has an optical joystick since ASCII did manufacture sticks with microswitch joysticks. This detailed post by jdm714 however helps us out a lot. It covers the 6 ASCII sticks ever produced that used an optical joystick along with giving us the Japanese katakana for the joystick so that if you're feeling ambitious, you can hunt for them on Japanese auction sites.
Wiring up the ASCII Answer is a bit odd since it does not use a standard connector for its directions, voltage line, or ground. All we get with it is the wires that were attached to the original ASCII PCB. But courtesy of our encyclopedic resource, jdm714, we have a diagram for those who want to wire one up into another stick.
![madcatzasciiwire.png]()
The colors correspond to each of the wires on the ASCII Answer PCB. Depending on whether you are using a Dreamcast or PlayStation 1 era ASCII Answer, your wire coloring may vary. This post by jdm714 tells of all the known color schemes so far:
Alternatively, you can purchase a reproduction optical PCB to install into your Sanwa JLF in your stick of choice. The first contender is made by our resident PCB wizard, Toodles.
You might some PlayStation 1 era ASCII Answers had a purple wire (image courtesy of fujifilm, linked to by jdm714) instead of blue! But they wire up just the same. Bear in mind the diagram does not mean the ASCII Answer can exclusively be installed in a Mad Catz Arcade FightStick or with a Mad Catz PCB. It's just a reference diagram. It can be easily installed in any stick you want.
What about those reproductions? Resident PCB wizard Toodles has himself designed and manufactured an optical PCB designed for use in a Sanwa JLF joystick called the Spark. You can order one of these from his site. These are very reliable PCBs and are a very cost-effective solution if you want to try out an optical joystick for yourself.
Recently as well, Rollie Electronics in partnership with Happ Controls has begun reproducing the original FLASH 1 optical PCB designed for the Sanwa JLF joystick. I won't go into details, but you can find more information in their thread here:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-original-flash1-is-back-a-product-review.151531/
Anyways, enough background information. I'd like to propose the following discussion question:
What should we dub the ASCII optical joystick?
The term "ASCII Optical" is certainly easy to remember and is definitely precise enough for people to understand what you're talking about, but (it might be just me) I feel that it's very boring sounding. Happ/Wico had their "Perfect 360" bit going, a name signifying the perfection in movement that their optical joystick gave to the player. Sanwa's FLASH 1 had a reference to light in the name, and is almost synonymous with the phrase "High-Speed Response."
So what about ASCII? I personally think that we should dub it the "ASCII Answer" for two reasons:
1) It was, after all, ASCII's own "answer" to Sanwa's optical joystick.
2) For the deep, psychological part of the name, the term "answer" refers to how the ASCII optical joystick shall always be there to "answer" to whatever request you may make of it.
I dunno though; I thought my own attempt was pretty lame so let's get talking about the ASCII's new name or anything else optical.
Have at it gentlemen!![:tup:]( ":tup:")
- The Happ/WICO Perfect 360 joystick
- The Sanwa JLHS-8Y FLASH 1 joystick
- The ASCII Answer (Optical) joystick
as well as recent reproductions:
- Toodles' Spark
- Rollie Electronics and Happ Controls' reproduction FLASH 1
What is an optical joystick and why should I care?
What's so great about optics? Well, the beauty of optical joysticks is that unlike their microswitch counterparts, there's not a single component on the PCB that moves. That means as long as you're not running these things out-of-spec, they'll last a really long time. The optical joysticks invented thus far have required +5V power to power their sensors and LEDs. All 5 sticks listed above have however been successfully installed onto PlayStation 1 and 2 era sticks without much of a hitch. This would normally be an issue since PS1 and PS2 PCBs output at only +3.3V.
All of the original joysticks been out of production for a long time. The Sanwa HS-ASSY FLASH 1 PCB was discontinued in 2006; the old WICO Perfect 360s have been out of production for maybe a decade (someone fact check me on this) and the ASCII optical joysticks were just hard to find to begin with. So, needless to say, if you want an original, you're going to have to prepare a chunk of cash to get it.
HOWEVER, do not be mistaken that just because they're reproductions that Toodles' Spark or Rolllie's FLASH 1 are any worse. They are reproductions, but they are based on the same design principles and standards that original optical joystick PCBs work on. They will work the exact same.
Where can I buy an optical joystick?
As stated, if you're looking to get an original optical joystick, be prepared to get some cash on hand because depending on which joystick you want, you're going to have to spend a LOT of cash. Here are some figures regarding the average going rate I've seen for these joysticks here on SRK's Trading Outlet:
WICO Perfect 360: $100.00 +/- $20.00
Sanwa JLHS-8Y FLASH 1: $200.00 (!) +/- $20.00
ASCII Answer (Optical): $120.00 +/- $20.00
And here's the price for the reproduction optical PCBs:
Toodles' Spark: $55.00 + shipping
Rollie's FLASH 1: To be determined
Except for the newer production Happ Perfect 360s, which you can get commonly from LizardLick for $39.95 plus shipping and handling, every other optical joystick ever made is out of production. Go figure why they're so sought after; the last time people were able to get an optical joystick for reasonable prices was around in 2006!
If you are a fan of American parts you can still get a Happ Perfect 360 joystick from places like LizardLick. Just be aware that the newer Happ Perfect 360 joysticks are manufactured by Happ in their factories in China and the first batches of P360s have had issues with various aspects of the build; pivot grinding issues, diagonals not registering, and other issues have been noticed in the newer P360s (none of these reported issues have anything to do with the optics. If there were any optics issues, it's because you're not powering your joystick properly).
However, that was a few years ago when Happ first made the switch to their China factories. Today, their P360s are mostly issue free, though WICO P360 owners will tell you the new P360s "Just don't feel the same." You can get a newer Happ P360 for around $40.00 USD from LizardLick, but for a WICO P360, you're going to need to do a bit of hunting for them and shell out some more cash. I've seen WICO P360s go for around $120.00 here on SRK. The easiest way to tell if it was made by WICO or Happ is to look at the bottom of the joystick. If it was made by WICO, it will have "WICO" written on the bottom. If Happ, it will say "HAPP P360." There have been some cases where some people got a P360 without any writing on the bottom at all, and it's mostly been assumed that these are WICO P360s, but just be sure to ask.
If you are fan of Japanese parts and are looking to use an optical joystick, looking for an ASCII Answer (Optical) is probably your best bet. They're incredibly good in terms of build quality and you can find them for significantly cheaper than a Sanwa FLASH 1. Of course, you typically won't find them sold as just the joystick. The ASCII Answer is pretty elusive only because when you look for any possible ASCII joystick that might have them, people are worried about whether the stick they're buying actually has an optical joystick since ASCII did manufacture sticks with microswitch joysticks. This detailed post by jdm714 however helps us out a lot. It covers the 6 ASCII sticks ever produced that used an optical joystick along with giving us the Japanese katakana for the joystick so that if you're feeling ambitious, you can hunt for them on Japanese auction sites.
Spoiler:
jdm714, post: wrote:For PlayStation
ASCII Stick 3 (?????????3)
ASCII Stick Zero 3 (?????????ZERO3)
ASCII Stick Justice (????????? ??????)
For Dreamcast
ASCII Stick FT (?????????FT)
ASCII Stick FT Special: SNK Version (?????????FT SP SNK?????)
ASCII Stick FT Special: Capcom Version (?????????FT SP ?????????)
Wiring up the ASCII Answer is a bit odd since it does not use a standard connector for its directions, voltage line, or ground. All we get with it is the wires that were attached to the original ASCII PCB. But courtesy of our encyclopedic resource, jdm714, we have a diagram for those who want to wire one up into another stick.
The colors correspond to each of the wires on the ASCII Answer PCB. Depending on whether you are using a Dreamcast or PlayStation 1 era ASCII Answer, your wire coloring may vary. This post by jdm714 tells of all the known color schemes so far:
jdm714, post: wrote:Dreamcast has colors going Green, Brown, Gray, Yellow.
PlayStation has the colors going Green, Orange, Blue, Yellow.
The colors are different, but they are the same as diagrammed.
Alternatively, you can purchase a reproduction optical PCB to install into your Sanwa JLF in your stick of choice. The first contender is made by our resident PCB wizard, Toodles.
You might some PlayStation 1 era ASCII Answers had a purple wire (image courtesy of fujifilm, linked to by jdm714) instead of blue! But they wire up just the same. Bear in mind the diagram does not mean the ASCII Answer can exclusively be installed in a Mad Catz Arcade FightStick or with a Mad Catz PCB. It's just a reference diagram. It can be easily installed in any stick you want.
What about those reproductions? Resident PCB wizard Toodles has himself designed and manufactured an optical PCB designed for use in a Sanwa JLF joystick called the Spark. You can order one of these from his site. These are very reliable PCBs and are a very cost-effective solution if you want to try out an optical joystick for yourself.
Recently as well, Rollie Electronics in partnership with Happ Controls has begun reproducing the original FLASH 1 optical PCB designed for the Sanwa JLF joystick. I won't go into details, but you can find more information in their thread here:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-original-flash1-is-back-a-product-review.151531/
Anyways, enough background information. I'd like to propose the following discussion question:
What should we dub the ASCII optical joystick?
The term "ASCII Optical" is certainly easy to remember and is definitely precise enough for people to understand what you're talking about, but (it might be just me) I feel that it's very boring sounding. Happ/Wico had their "Perfect 360" bit going, a name signifying the perfection in movement that their optical joystick gave to the player. Sanwa's FLASH 1 had a reference to light in the name, and is almost synonymous with the phrase "High-Speed Response."
So what about ASCII? I personally think that we should dub it the "ASCII Answer" for two reasons:
1) It was, after all, ASCII's own "answer" to Sanwa's optical joystick.
2) For the deep, psychological part of the name, the term "answer" refers to how the ASCII optical joystick shall always be there to "answer" to whatever request you may make of it.
I dunno though; I thought my own attempt was pretty lame so let's get talking about the ASCII's new name or anything else optical.
Have at it gentlemen!
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Dual-stick / Twin Stick Guide and Work Log
Hello and welcome to my Dual-Stick/ Twin Stick Guide
Why both names, well generally both names are used, so using both allows this thread to be found by search engines faster. I will be using the 2 terms interchangeably.
Why make a Dual-Stick?
Certain games are more intuitive with a Dual-Stick set up, this would include but not limited to Robotron 2040, Smash TV, Assault, Battle Tank and the Virtual-On series.
Most players I know make twin-sticks for virtual on so I will start there.
Cyber Troopers Virtual-On Oratorio Tangram on XBLA uses 1 of 3 preset controller settings
Standard type, Twin Stick Type A and Twin Stick Type B.
Control Types
Standard type are similar controls to Frist person shooters
Left Analog for movement, Right for turning
Twin Stick Type A still uses the left and right analog but are set closer to the arcades as left analog controls the left level and right analog controls the right level
Twin Stick Type B has the option of using the D-pad and the A,B,X and Y buttons instead of analog.
Type B controls
As Type B is easier to wire for I go into more detail for Type B
D-Pad Directions directly apply to the left level directions
Right Level goes as follows:
Up - Y
Down - A
Left - X
Right - B
LB and RB are your left and right Turbos (as in turbo rockets)
LT and RT are your Left and Weapons (they are different from left and right, you need both)
Select/ back: Special attack (used on certain mecha)
How I made my own Twin Stick.
Materials
1. Hrap 1,2,3 or EX case (or make your own custom case)
2 Dual trigger joysticks. You can find the joysticks I used here Import Flight Stick
You can also use Sanwa JFJ, Seimtisu LSX-57-01, source 2 joysticks from a Saturn or Dreamcast Twin Stick and even NES Quick Shot Joysticks.
1. Custom Top Panel (Blk Lighting Custom for me, but a Art Hobies custom works as well.)
1. Xbox 360 Common ground PCB (my case a Mad Catz Fight Pad PCB)
3. 24mm push buttons
wire, disconnects, terminal strips
Optional Art Hobies Hrap top Loaders
Optional 2nd PCB for Dual-Mods
You also have to hack the analog triggers if your PCB requires it, we will need the RT and LT.
Why a Hrap case?
The Hrap case is large enough to accommodate everything, with enough depth. And the sturdyness and weight helps alot too. Unlike most arcade sticks, you would want a heavy Twin-Stick.
Go ahead and guy everything out including the buttons, JLF and the PCB.
For this project you will need a common ground PCB.
Check these threads for more info on pad hacking and Dual-Mods
How to Padhack an 08/09 MadCatz 4716 Common Ground X360 Pad
The Padhacking Thread
Dual Modding 101
Can I use a Xbox 360 TE PCB?
Yes
What the Panel layout should look like?
Similar to the image below, keep in mind what kind of mount plate you are using as this effects the mount holes.
![virtualonlayout.jpg]()
You can leave or cut out the guide area, your choice, I chosen to take out the guide area.
The button in the middle is Select/Back used for Special Attack.
Why both names, well generally both names are used, so using both allows this thread to be found by search engines faster. I will be using the 2 terms interchangeably.
Why make a Dual-Stick?
Certain games are more intuitive with a Dual-Stick set up, this would include but not limited to Robotron 2040, Smash TV, Assault, Battle Tank and the Virtual-On series.
Most players I know make twin-sticks for virtual on so I will start there.
Cyber Troopers Virtual-On Oratorio Tangram on XBLA uses 1 of 3 preset controller settings
Standard type, Twin Stick Type A and Twin Stick Type B.
Control Types
Standard type are similar controls to Frist person shooters
Left Analog for movement, Right for turning
Twin Stick Type A still uses the left and right analog but are set closer to the arcades as left analog controls the left level and right analog controls the right level
Twin Stick Type B has the option of using the D-pad and the A,B,X and Y buttons instead of analog.
Type B controls
As Type B is easier to wire for I go into more detail for Type B
D-Pad Directions directly apply to the left level directions
Right Level goes as follows:
Up - Y
Down - A
Left - X
Right - B
LB and RB are your left and right Turbos (as in turbo rockets)
LT and RT are your Left and Weapons (they are different from left and right, you need both)
Select/ back: Special attack (used on certain mecha)
How I made my own Twin Stick.
Materials
1. Hrap 1,2,3 or EX case (or make your own custom case)
2 Dual trigger joysticks. You can find the joysticks I used here Import Flight Stick
You can also use Sanwa JFJ, Seimtisu LSX-57-01, source 2 joysticks from a Saturn or Dreamcast Twin Stick and even NES Quick Shot Joysticks.
1. Custom Top Panel (Blk Lighting Custom for me, but a Art Hobies custom works as well.)
1. Xbox 360 Common ground PCB (my case a Mad Catz Fight Pad PCB)
3. 24mm push buttons
wire, disconnects, terminal strips
Optional Art Hobies Hrap top Loaders
Optional 2nd PCB for Dual-Mods
You also have to hack the analog triggers if your PCB requires it, we will need the RT and LT.
Why a Hrap case?
The Hrap case is large enough to accommodate everything, with enough depth. And the sturdyness and weight helps alot too. Unlike most arcade sticks, you would want a heavy Twin-Stick.
Go ahead and guy everything out including the buttons, JLF and the PCB.
For this project you will need a common ground PCB.
Check these threads for more info on pad hacking and Dual-Mods
How to Padhack an 08/09 MadCatz 4716 Common Ground X360 Pad
The Padhacking Thread
Dual Modding 101
Can I use a Xbox 360 TE PCB?
Yes
What the Panel layout should look like?
Similar to the image below, keep in mind what kind of mount plate you are using as this effects the mount holes.
You can leave or cut out the guide area, your choice, I chosen to take out the guide area.
The button in the middle is Select/Back used for Special Attack.
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HORI 360 Tekken Tag Tournament 2 Arcade Stick worked on older win 7 64 pc but not new win 7 64 pc
Hey Guys
Was reading through the tech talk Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!) and Info Thread: Rules, FAQs and Tutorials Inside. (READ THIS BEFORE HITTING THAT NEW THREAD BUTTON!) but couldn't find anything similar really apart from [DRIVER RELEASE]HORI FIGHTING STICK 3 ON PC thread.
Ok what I do is plug in http://stores.horiusa.com/-strse-166/Xbox-360-Tekken-Tag/Detail.bok into usb ports in PC and within Device Manager under Other Devices appears STICK AP, now I google STICK AP and there is no entry of it or others having a similar problem. I installed XBCD and also the official Microsoft XBOX 360 controller for Windows 7 64 bit software, but still STICK AP under Device Details says
The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28)
There is no driver selected for the device information set or element.
I update driver and point towards XBCD driver folder but it says Windows was unable to install your STICK AP
So I am out of ideas, please help as just wanted to play some SSF4 AE ver 2012 on PC etc
Thanks
Was reading through the tech talk Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!) and Info Thread: Rules, FAQs and Tutorials Inside. (READ THIS BEFORE HITTING THAT NEW THREAD BUTTON!) but couldn't find anything similar really apart from [DRIVER RELEASE]HORI FIGHTING STICK 3 ON PC thread.
Ok what I do is plug in http://stores.horiusa.com/-strse-166/Xbox-360-Tekken-Tag/Detail.bok into usb ports in PC and within Device Manager under Other Devices appears STICK AP, now I google STICK AP and there is no entry of it or others having a similar problem. I installed XBCD and also the official Microsoft XBOX 360 controller for Windows 7 64 bit software, but still STICK AP under Device Details says
The drivers for this device are not installed. (Code 28)
There is no driver selected for the device information set or element.
I update driver and point towards XBCD driver folder but it says Windows was unable to install your STICK AP
So I am out of ideas, please help as just wanted to play some SSF4 AE ver 2012 on PC etc
Thanks
↧
help for a control hori arcade
hello good afternoon!! gostarai to know if I have to install on my control hori vx sa one-sensoe opitico? be able to help me I will be grateou.
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General Troubleshooting & Repair Guide
The purpose of this guide is to cover common and basic issues with Arcade sticks, how to find and spot the issue and repair the arcade stick. This guide doesn't cover all situations or pacific brands or PCBs.
For a particular board I would direct you to that board's thread and read there.
Okay your Stick do not work as it should, what will you do?
Step 1: First off calm down and approach the issue rationally. Being angry and flustered helps no one.
Step 2: Identify the issue. What is wrong with your stick? Not responding, broken button, direction on the joystick not registering?
Step 2B: Is your stick NEW or OLD. If you have a new retail/ commercial stick this would be the time to take advantage of the manufacturer's Warranty. If this is a Custom stick please contact your stick builder. Please note individual custom stick builders (usually)do not offer warranties and have no obligation to help, especially if you get angry with them. Please give stick builders a few days (aprox 7 days) to contact you to sort the issue out.
Step 3: This is if you are repairing the stick your self, once you identify the issue you need to go and trouble shoot the problem.
Step 4: Repair
Step 5: Recover. This includes reasembily and any finishing touches. If you working on a Computer you be uninstalling programs and apps you installed to make a fix (like mal-ware removal tools, cleaner apps ect).
Also All repairs can be broken down in 4 steps so, this applies to anything including PCs, Cars, Medicine, air craft ect...
1. Diagnose the device
2. Assets the problem
3. Repair
4. Recover
Tools Needed:
Non working Arcade stick
For a particular board I would direct you to that board's thread and read there.
Okay your Stick do not work as it should, what will you do?
Step 1: First off calm down and approach the issue rationally. Being angry and flustered helps no one.
Step 2: Identify the issue. What is wrong with your stick? Not responding, broken button, direction on the joystick not registering?
Step 2B: Is your stick NEW or OLD. If you have a new retail/ commercial stick this would be the time to take advantage of the manufacturer's Warranty. If this is a Custom stick please contact your stick builder. Please note individual custom stick builders (usually)do not offer warranties and have no obligation to help, especially if you get angry with them. Please give stick builders a few days (aprox 7 days) to contact you to sort the issue out.
Step 3: This is if you are repairing the stick your self, once you identify the issue you need to go and trouble shoot the problem.
Step 4: Repair
Step 5: Recover. This includes reasembily and any finishing touches. If you working on a Computer you be uninstalling programs and apps you installed to make a fix (like mal-ware removal tools, cleaner apps ect).
Also All repairs can be broken down in 4 steps so, this applies to anything including PCs, Cars, Medicine, air craft ect...
1. Diagnose the device
2. Assets the problem
3. Repair
4. Recover
Tools Needed:
- Screw drivers Both Phillips and flat head, depending on the stick you need multiple sizes.
- The correct bit to open the top and/or bottom panels of your stick, this might include hex keys or some security bit to loosen these screws.
- Paper and Pencil, you will be taking notes
- Multi-meter or continuity tester. Preferably a Multi-meter, although for some test a continuity tester works too.
- Needle nose pliers
- Wire cutters, Wire Strippers and Crimpers. These can be separate tools or a all-in-one tool
- A Digital camera. To take images of your stick, use this prior to disassembly.
- Soldering iron, solder and soldering accessories.
- Electric tape (not masking tape, gift wrap tape or duct tape) or shrink wrap tubing.
Non working Arcade stick
- Is the stick plunged into your game system and the game system turned on?
- Is your stick set to the correct player? Player 1, Player 2 and so on.
- Is the stick the correct controller for that system? For Dual Mods is the stick set to the correct mode? This applies to Automatic, Button presses mode changes as well as DPDT switch Dual-Mods.
- Are you using your Arcade Stick with a PC? What Chip set you have on your mother board? Are the Drivers Installed?
- The controller cable is damage or disconnected (on most modern sticks this is a USB cable)
- The Printed Circuit board is disconnected or damaged.
- With the stick plugged into the CORRECT system and the system is on?
- Is your stick set to the correct player? Player 1, Player 2 and so on.
- is the wires to the push button/ push button micro switch are connected properly to the wiring and that wiring to the PCB?
- Remove the push button, using the 2 exposed wire ends or quick disconnects, will the button signal respond when the 2 wire ends touch?
- Does the button show Continuity when the button is pushed?
- Comparing to a working push button do you see a High or Low change in the voltage on that button's line?
- With the stick plugged into the CORRECT system and the system is on?
- Is your stick set to the correct player? Player 1, Player 2 and so on.
- Is the stick selector set to "LS", "DP" or "RS", Set it to the correct setting, usually this is DP on consoles.
- Is each of the four cardinal directions, Up, down , left and Right responds?
- Do the four corner directions respond?
- If you have a 4/8 way gate (usually square) is the gate set to 4 way or 8 way play.
- Do you have a 2 way gate?
- Is your wiring harness is plugged in correctly and in the correct orientation. its common for the stock wire harness for some sticks (specially the TE) to be installed upside down.
- Does the Microswitches show continuity?
- is the wires/ wire harness to the joystick/ joystick micro switches are connected properly
- Is the wires/ wire harness is connected to the correct way? No backwards wire harnesses or wires connected to the wrong switch?
jdm714 wrote:Darksakul, when people say that their Directionals lag, it is usually because LS.
When people say the Joystick one day just die, it is usually RS.
↧
The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!
Welcome Sheets:
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip
Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/
Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.
Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis
Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.
_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:
Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.
Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.
Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)
Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)
Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread
Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.
Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.
Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.
Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.
Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power
Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack
Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.
Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.
Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.
Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.
Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework
Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:
PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS
PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select
PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X
Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A
Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start
Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks
NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)
NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A
NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start
SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select
Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L
3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop
TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)
Normal:
1K: II
2K: I
Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I
Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I
Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.
Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.
Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.
Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.
Q: What about converter support?
A:
____________
ChimpSMD Questions
Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.
Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577
Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.
Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.
Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.
Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.
Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp
Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306
Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3: [] /\ R1 L1 X O R2 L2 For Xbox360: X Y RB LB A B RT LT [/CODE] You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported. Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do? A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires. Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself? A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded. Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC. A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode. _____________________ Misc: Q: What are the golden rules? A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods: 1. All pcb's must be common ground. 2. All pcb's must be powered at all times. Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again. A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT. _____________________ Ordering: If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers: [URL="http://www.focusattack.com/toodles-cthulhu-multi-console-pcb/"]Focus Attack[/URL] [URL="http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/cthulhupcb.htm"]Gremlin Solutions (UK)[/URL] If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible. Q: How do I order? A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: [url]http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html[/url] Q: How long to ship? A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out. Q: How long will it take to arrive? A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.[CODE]
For PS3:
[] /\ R1 L1
X O R2 L2
For Xbox360:
X Y RB LB
A B RT LT
[/CODE]
You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.
Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.
Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.
Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.
Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:
If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:
Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)
If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.
Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html
Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.
Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip
Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/
Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.
Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis
Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.
_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:
Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.
Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.
Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)
Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)
Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread
Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.
Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.
Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.
Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.
Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power
Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack
Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.
Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.
Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.
Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.
Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework
Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:
Spoiler:
PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS
PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select
PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X
Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A
Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start
Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks
NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)
NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A
NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start
SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select
Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L
3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop
TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)
Normal:
1K: II
2K: I
Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I
Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I
Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.
Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.
Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.
Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.
Q: What about converter support?
A:
Spoiler:
Tested as working:
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)
Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)
Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
ChimpSMD Questions
Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.
Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577
Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.
Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.
Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.
Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.
Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp
Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306
Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3: [] /\ R1 L1 X O R2 L2 For Xbox360: X Y RB LB A B RT LT [/CODE] You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported. Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do? A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires. Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself? A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded. Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC. A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode. _____________________ Misc: Q: What are the golden rules? A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods: 1. All pcb's must be common ground. 2. All pcb's must be powered at all times. Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again. A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT. _____________________ Ordering: If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers: [URL="http://www.focusattack.com/toodles-cthulhu-multi-console-pcb/"]Focus Attack[/URL] [URL="http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/cthulhupcb.htm"]Gremlin Solutions (UK)[/URL] If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible. Q: How do I order? A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: [url]http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html[/url] Q: How long to ship? A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out. Q: How long will it take to arrive? A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.[CODE]
For PS3:
[] /\ R1 L1
X O R2 L2
For Xbox360:
X Y RB LB
A B RT LT
[/CODE]
You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.
Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.
Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.
Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.
Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:
If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:
Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)
If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.
Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html
Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.
Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.
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Custom Two-Player Panel for a PS3 Cabinet?
I've been looking around the 'net for a two-player control panel for a future PS3 cabinet build. I've seen some of the Blast City panels and was wondering how easy/hard they are to mod for PS3 use. Also, I have a spare PS3 Madcatz TE. I've been thinking about finding another one on the cheap, throwing them in a custom panel and putting art down over the top so it appears seamless, as one solid panel.
Any words of advice/caveats? It'd be nice to mod one of the Blast City panels but I'm not confident in my modding skeelz at this point. Any one use two TEs cleverly? Pictures are approved. ;)
Peace!
Any words of advice/caveats? It'd be nice to mod one of the Blast City panels but I'm not confident in my modding skeelz at this point. Any one use two TEs cleverly? Pictures are approved. ;)
Peace!
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PSA: Only Xbox One controllers, accessories will work with Xbox One
http://www.joystiq.com/2013/05/22/microsoft-only-xbox-one-controllers-accessories-will-work-wit/
So if you just bought a 360 stick, you're SOL.
Dunno what the situation is with PS4 yet.
So if you just bought a 360 stick, you're SOL.
Dunno what the situation is with PS4 yet.
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COM 2 JVS I/O (NAOMI) EMULATION PROJECT
Hello to the community. Im elkiman and i want to present my project com2jvs: its a software based solution to change the jvs i/o board and put a pc with com port and with direct input use the pc joystick, racing wheel, pc guns into the naomi sistem via RS485 (pc com to naomi 485).
The next week i try to update with my test with the new version of the emulation software (for now only makes communication).
Its the beggining of the project and i need documentation and if someone can help reply this message.
The next week i try to update with my test with the new version of the emulation software (for now only makes communication).
Its the beggining of the project and i need documentation and if someone can help reply this message.
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Permanent fix for "dead" Xbox 360 rechargeable batteries?
Is there a permanent way to fix these "dead" batteries. I use the quotation marks because alot of the time, they simply aren't dead. I put them on the charger and the light flashes red then turns green after just a few seconds. I have even resorted to trying the "paper clip fix" as demonstrated in this video.
![image]()
But even that solution is temporary at best. Is there a permanent fix for these sorry excuses for rechargeable batteries? I even heard that one of the reasons these batteries start "dying" is because of disuse...so it's basically a lose-lose situation. Play it too much? too bad. Want to conserve it, too bad. Sheesh Microsoft, you sure know how to make durable, long lasting products
But even that solution is temporary at best. Is there a permanent fix for these sorry excuses for rechargeable batteries? I even heard that one of the reasons these batteries start "dying" is because of disuse...so it's basically a lose-lose situation. Play it too much? too bad. Want to conserve it, too bad. Sheesh Microsoft, you sure know how to make durable, long lasting products
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How Many Arcade Sticks Do You Own
I'm considering buying my 3rd arcade stick. I think its kinda silly to own more than one arcade stick, but I just can't help myself. I just want to collect the best looking arcade sticks. How many fightsticks/arcade sticks do you own? Which one is your favorite? I personally like the Mad Catz Pro stick because of the arm rests.
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Best resolution to use when playing sf4
Just wondering, does it make a difference in input lag, when I use different resolutions when playing sf4?
If there is, what would be the most optimal resolution to play sf4 in, 1080p 1080i, or even 720p?
If there is, what would be the most optimal resolution to play sf4 in, 1080p 1080i, or even 720p?
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What is the fuss over Vewlix layout/cabinets?
More and more I see stick manufacturers trying to replicate part of the Vewlix layout in their sticks, why is there so much fuss over these cabinets/layouts? is it because they are used for SFIV in the arcades or is it something about the layout, e.g. ergonomics, that makes it superior to other layouts?
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