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What screws to use for mounting a Korean Joystick in my HRAP 3?

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Ok so having installed my joystick, everything works just fine. Only thing is that the screws that I am using (I got at my local hardware store) will go in about half way and then just stop turning.. so I had to use duct tape for the time being to secure it just so I could test if the thing worked. So any suggestions? The second pic are the screws I used to secure the joystick (I am using the 4 in the corner, not the middle 2 points that fastened the JLF).

PIC_0120.jpg

PIC_0121.jpg

PS360+ on Windows XP Control Panel

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I'm wondering if it's a normal behaviour, the pictures explains all. Besides, there are differences........the buttons are mapped differently for each one and MAME along with other emulators has the buttons config messed up including select / start.

th_ps3601_zps05f45a04.jpgth_ps3602_zps81122010.jpg

Afterglow Prizmatic Gaming Headset Review

New Korean Lever Offers New Possibilities for Mad Catz FightSticks

What size of buttons do you use?

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Hey guys I plan on building a custom fightstick using a case from tek-innovations and was wondering what the average size of buttons you guys use?
I see there is 24mm and 30mm which is quite a difference in size.
What do you guys prefer?
Are there advantages/disadvantages?

Official 'Kitty' class boards thread

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And let's get this started....

'Kitty' reffers to a new class of boards. The other boards I've made were made to be as usable in as many places as possible; Cthulhus, Imps, and FGW LED Controllers have been installed in all sorts of different sticks with great results. The Kitty boards represent a very different viewpoint. Instead of trying to make a single board that can be used in a wide variety of situations, these will be made to be installed in very specific sticks.

Goals:
1. Make installation as easy as possible in the specific Xbox360 arcade stick.
2. Make use of all of the features available in the stick as if the Kitty was part of the original design.
3. Add as much awesome as is physically possible.

As of this writing, boards and kits are ready to go for the first two products in the Kitty line: 'TE Kitty' and 'VLX Kitty'. These are made specifically for the MadCatz Tournament Edition FightSticks, and Hori VLX stick. I'm still in the middle of writing the normal documentation, but I welcome early adopters. Feel free to send a PM if you're willing to get your hands dirty with a new toy.

Most recent firmwares will always be available at these URLs:
VLX Kitty firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/vlxkitty.zip
TE Kitty firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/tekitty.zip

How to order:
Easiest way is through the Paypal checkout page I've setup:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html

Crown CWJ 303 A Review & Comparison

QanbaPS3 Xbox 360 PC Multi-Console Joystick PCB

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Looking for help connecting cables to this Pcb. My buttons and joystick are happ so i will have to replace the connectors with larger ones. No paperwork came with it came from hong Kong. Trying to connect to a old Red Octane joystick with 8 buttons and start and select. Only thing I can figure out is the joystick commands with the ground wire.


c5d3af00e18250a3934999d817879ef2.image.850x404.JPG



http://www.gyarcade.com/images/gy_diy_qanba_3in1_pc_ps3_360_01.JPG


Converter Compatibility Thread

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Read the FAQ before posting! :bluu:

There is not a converter for using a TE on a system other than the one it was designed for.

There is no USB to anything older. No USB to PS2, Dreamcast, etc. You must mod your stick with a MC Cthulhu or a second PCB.

If you want a stick that works on both Xbox 360 and PS3 (And PS2, Dreamcast, etc.) get a PS2 stick like a HRAP or Namco. You can then use converters to adapt it to various systems.

You can not plug a random USB controller or converter into either the Xbox 360 or PS2. The Xbox 360 only works with Xbox controllers due to its security scheme. The PS2 was never designed to accept it.

The PS3 can use HID compliant (driverless) USB controllers for PS3 and PS1 games (not PS2). This makes the USB Saturn pads worth getting. Beware of bootlegs.

The PS1 Dual Shock has the best compatibility with converters. If you are building a custom stick then these are the way to go. The original, non-analog controllers have problems with most converters and are not recommended if you can avoid them.

Most custom PS1/PS2 sticks were made with Sony PCBs. When submitting a compatilibility report open your stick and see what kind of pad is inside. The Dual Shock pads have analog sticks. The original Digital pads do not.

There are three versions of the SFAC stick. Unscrew the bottom of the case to check the PCB before purchasing an adapter. Check next to the system cable for the voltage. It will read either 3.5V 7.5V or 8V. This number is indicated in the listing below whenever possible.

Please test your converter if it can be connected to a PC:

If you purchase a converter that's USB (PS2 to PS3, etc.) and want to test it for lag (on Windows) then download this application developed by SRK member Colac. It's straightforward to use once you get the hang of it.
To accurately test your adapter/converter, you need to:

1) Turn off vertical sync in your graphics card settings.

2) Using a key on your keyboard to run through the program once and record down the input lag time from your keyboard.

3) Plug your gamepad and stick through the adapter that you want to test into your PC. Then, use programs like (xpadder) to map a button on your gamepad or stick to the SAME key that you tested in step one. Run the program and record down the input lag again.

4) Subtract the two results you got from previous steps. If the difference is less than 2 ms (i.e., stick input lag - keyboard input lag <= 2ms), then your adapter can be considered as lag free.

PS2 to PS3/USB

Note: Sony is at it again with 3.5. The Real and HAIS are reportedly done for.

The 2.7 firmware update rendered the Sumoto and TAC adapters unusable with the PS3. This was corrected with 2.8. I'm hesitant to recommend them in light of this but they are working again.

The majority of these converters should also work on a PC without drivers (InPin, Pelican). If you only care about PC compatibility then the Super Joy Box 3 Pro was highly recommended. It does not work on the PS3.

*Recommended* InPin: This is the best option that's readily available. It's sold by exclusively by SRK member laugh. Visit his eTokki shop to order one.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS, MAS, HRAP Series, Namco PS1, SFAC 3.5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V?, certain PS1 Digitals

*Recommended* Pelican: People claim that these are the only adapter to feature code from Sony. They have excellent compatibility with the exception of PS1 digital PCBs. They're by far the most expensive ($50+) but can occasionally be found used at GameStop for a few dollars.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, HRAP 2, SFAC 3.5, Namco PS1, Saulabi
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, SFAC 7.5V

HVG2: These are reportedly a good converter if your stick has a analog capabilities; like a custom with a PS1 DS. It will not work with a digital PCB like most consumer sticks have (HRAP).
Compatible With: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, Hori Fighting Stick, SFAC 3.5V, 7.5V
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Namco PS1, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2, SFAC Pad
Reviews: Riotblade

DragonPlus: There were conflicting reports on this adapter. Most of its owners reported it as lagless. Press Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Tekken 5 stick

Cablesforpc: This is the one to get for owners of the SFAC stick with an 8V PCB. It allows two PS2 controllers to be connected.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, 8V, HRAP 1
Incompatible with: SFAC 7.5V
Reviews: Annihilationscape

Sumoto: These were reported as the best adapter for Sony digital PCBs (original pads without analog sticks). A few users have claimed they're lagless, and I haven't seen a negative review on them yet.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, Tekken 5, Pelican Universal, Pelican PS2, Ascii PS1, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with:

TAC: These were reported to work well with SFAC and HRAP series. MarkMan and others reported that it has issues so I would avoid it in favor of something else. Hold Analog for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital

Real (Incompatible with 3.5): These were once all the rage but are now discontinued. They notably do not work with PS2 DS controllers.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1, SFAC, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: PS2 DS

Hais (Incompatible with 3.5): These reportedly work well and include a PS2 memory card reader. They have taken Sumoto's place as a solid/budget converter. Press Analog or Up+Select for XMB. Hold Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC, SFAC pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Pelican Universal
Reviews: Canto

PS2/3 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* Controller Converter Pro by Blaze (?): This is an unmarked converter that is similar in appearance to the Blaze PS2-360. It notably does not require a 360 controller for passthrough. It reportedly works well with a HRAP3 and features similar compatibility to the Blaze.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS3 DS3, HRAP3, HRAP2, Namco T5, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: MadCatz TE and SE, Pelican Universal

PS2 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* PS&PS2 to 360 converter (Xtokki360) by Tinybee: These converters, originally sold through Focalprice, are the best available option for PS2 to 360. They do not require an Xbox 360 controller for passthrough like the others listed below. They are also the only converter to feature a headset jack. They are sold by SRK member laugh. He is the recommended supplier because of Focalprice's questionable shipping. Analog or Select + L3 for Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, Tekken 5, MC Cthulhu, Mayflash PS2/PS3, Tekken 4, Fighting Stick PS, ASCII Stick 3
Incompatible with:
Reviews: kaioshade, DrgnAK

The following converters require a wired 360 controller to bypass Microsoft's security scheme. A wireless controller with a Play & Charge cable will not work. Read Ikagi-chan's post for more information. The Blaze and Xtokki360 above feature a Microsoft security chip to bypass this requirement.

*Recommended* Xconverter 360 by Joytron: These were the best option until the introduction of the Xtokki360. They are now discontinued. Previously sold by SRK member laugh who brought us the InPin. Analog = Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, MAS, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:
Reviews: laugh, Ikagi-chan, Gamecop

*Recommended* BlazePro: These Hong Kong converters can be had for $10 on eBay. They are basically superseded by the PS3 to 360 converter listed above.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller, Saturn PS2 pad, Blaze Twin Shock
Incompatible with:
Reviews: Source thread

Max Shooter by Mayflash: These work great except for an issue with simultaneous key presses. Pressing corresponding buttons, for example: Right+Circle will cause the converter to freeze until another button is pressed.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP 1, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: HRAP 2, SFAC 8V

XFPS by XCM: There are a few revisions of this adapter but I can't recommend it at all. It reportedly lags and/or drops input even with a real Sony PS1 or PS2 controller. The OP repeatedly trashes them earlier on in the thread. There are 10 negative posts for every positive I could find. Read this, this, this, this, this, and this before deciding to spend your money on one of these.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS
Incompatible with: Namco PS1, HRAP 2

Xbox 360 to PS3

Cross Battle Adapter by XCM: MarkMan confirmed that this drops inputs similar to the XFPS. People with 360 sticks should look into adding a Cthulhu PCB (Photos) for PS3 compatibility.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with:

PS2 to DC

*Recommended* Total Control Plus: These are usually recommended since they're readily available. Toggle the switches on it to change the triggers.
Compatible with: Sony DS 2, HRAP, HRAP 2, SFAC, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: Some MAS sticks

*Recommended* Dream Connection 2 by Innovation (original URL, sold out): These as reportedly the best converters but are expensive and hard to come by. The SFAC Pad isn't recommended because it treats L1 and R1 (the HP/HK buttons) as the same button.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2/SA, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V

PS2 to GameCube/Wii

*Recommended* Cube JoyBox Pro by Mayflash: These are the most commonly recommended converters for GC. They work with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom on Wii.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA, MAS, Namco PS1, Tekken 5, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:

Magic Path II by EMS: These apparently work equally as well as the Cube JoyBox. They're also reported to work fine with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, HRAP
Incompatible with:

Game Elements (eBay): This is the converter I've happily used for years. It works great on the GameCube/Wii as well as the Xbox. ArcadeStickMonk used it as well.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 2 SA, MAS
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital (works on Xbox) SFAC 8V, Tekken 5 (Works on Xbox), SFAC Controller

PS2 to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: These are lag free and the Saturn port is awesome. It went completely nuts when I plugged in my PS1 DS stick.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP, HRAP 2 SA
Incompatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC Pad, SFAC 8V

*Recommended* Game Elements: These work very well. See the GameCube section above.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2 SA, MAS, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Directional issues w/3rd Strike

X-Connection by Innovation: I would think the Innovation name would guarantee this one a winner, but it reportedly doesn't work with certain games or the HRAP 2.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with: HRAP 2

PS2 to Saturn, SNES, etc.

A company called ToToTEK makes a wide variety of PS2 to classic system adapters. There's one for 3DO, Neo-Geo, Famicom (NES), FC2003 (?), Saturn, GameCube, SNES, PC Engine (TurboGrafx-16), and Genesis (Mega Drive). They reportedly work well from everything I've read.

Saturn to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: This works great with an official Sega pad. There isn't a Select button for Insert Coin but some Xbox emulators like FB Alpha allow it to be remapped. Only problem is that they're hard to find.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad
Incompatible with: Nights Analog Pad

Saturn to PS2

*Recommended* Keio Console Converters: These are a godsend for people wanting to use their Saturn pads on other systems. They can be chained to other converters for use on the Xbox 360, PS3, etc.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad, HSS-0130
Incompatible with:

Xbox to USB (Not PS3)

The original Xbox uses a USB connector with a funky male end. Female Xbox to male USB adapters can be had on eBay for a few dollars. No conversion is necessary. This reportedly works fine for the SFAC stick.

Xbox 360 to USB (Not PS3)

Xbox 360 sticks/controllers work fine on Windows using Microsoft's drivers. They're available for both 32-bit and 64-bit.

zero delay pcb help

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I got some parts in the mail and they included this pcb that has a 4 pin connector to usb but when i insert it into my computer it doesn't recognize it as an arcade stick like an sf one where you can check the connection for the buttons and such. How could i program this pcb so that it reads it as a device and so that i can check the connections to joystick and the buttons?

Is it possible to use an Xbox 360 stick on PS3?

IC: Tek-Case Mini

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Good morning all! I have been speaking w/ Art of Tek-innovations.com about building mini portable tek-cases, and he is up to it if enough interest is gathered. Dimensions would be 9.5*7.33*2 which is the same as an Ipad2 vs the current 13.5*8.5*2.25.

case3.jpg

Painting the Fightstick (With Krylon or Vinyl Dye)

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Edit: Feel free to post your painted SE/TE or whatever project in this thread. Provide tips on your experience or any questions. If ya mess up, it's cool cuz then maybe someone can learn from your mistakes like I hope others learned from mine. Let us know what you did, what paint you used and anything you learned from it. :tup:

Krylon Guide
http://pages.videotron.com/thief/

Vinyl Dye Guide
http://www.gideontech.com/content/articles/202/1


Spraying my Madcatz Fightstick SE down now. 90% of the entire thing perfect. Looks beautiful, except for three drips side by side on the front of the case. All the guides say they will eventually vanish, these pooled up and dried like that. Now the drips themselves are darker than the rest of the work, and are very noticeable. I do not think they are going to vanish on their own.

Sanded it down with 800, then 600 grit as I would with regular spray paint and respraying does nothing. It's so much darker than the rest of the work that it's totally visible. Kind of dissapointed in this stuff. (Krylon Fusion)

Spray paint, when sanded down, at least covers up when resprayed. This stuff won't. Not as "simple" as everyone raves about it. The stuff is so thin I can still see the lettering on the plastic. I thought it'd be a little more effective at painting than this. 4 coats of it and it's as if the last one wasn't there.

What can I do?

Edit: Apparently Krylon Fusion is NOT Vinyl Dye. Like 3 different places on this forum set you up to think so, but it's not. I just ruined the damn case. All Krylon is is a Vinyl Dye wannabe. Regular paint that adheres to plastics better. No wonder the damn drip didn't "seep" into the plastic.

Let it be known here, that Krylon Fusion, regardless of what the guy at the damn auto parts store tells you, is NOT vinyl dye. Why is this topic so unheard of with people? I went to three different auto parts stores, and did searches on many forums and everyone reccomended Krylon as Vinyl Dye, when it's not. Now I can't use Vinyl Dyde ever, ever, ever on my case cuz it's been painted on.

Maybe this thread will be of use to someone. I got sanding to do. -_-

Spray painting arcade sticks

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Hello

Any tips on how to spray paint my arcade stick and what kind of paint to use? The guide(s) that I found here aren't exactly informative, and there seems to be lots of misinformed people giving out advice. Some information also seems to be outdated, but mostly it just feels scattered.

Basically I want to know what kind of spray paint I should look for, how I should sand paper the stick if at all, how many layers etc. I'm not sure if I can trust some random summer job dude over at the local market when it comes to choosing the correct paint.
I do have experience from spray painting miniatures, both metal and plastic, so I know basic spray painting techniques, I just have to find the correct paint!

I've been planning to paint my MadCatz SFxT Pro FightStick (still haven't decided the color, it totally depends on the overall design), anyone have experience of doing that? I'm not sure how I should approach painting the sides of the stick with the curvaceous design. Other than the sides I don't see any other problem in painting the thing.

Hope to get some answers, thanks!

Difference between Hori RAP V3 SA and the 'KAI' version?

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Hi,

first of all I would like to welcome everyone on this forum and apologize for my n00bi$h question. I'm new to the fighting games but I really enjoy SSF4:AE (even if I get beat up every time :)). I thinking of buying an arcade stick and the Hori RAP caught my eye. So getting to the question in the topic, what is the difference between those two sticks and do you know if they work on PC (if bought PS3 version)?

Injustice: Gods Among Us Battle Edition Arcade Stick

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EDIT: 4/15/13

Kaihong was nice enough to offer detailed pics & dissection starting with this post:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/8091923/#Comment_8091923

Details:

Case material: Plastic with spray on (?!?) soft rubber matte black texture & thin foam bottom panel. Clear top panel is plastic. There are no metal panels. Also has a detachable 10+ feet USB cable.

Artwork: Heavy duty cardstock underneath the top panel.

Components: All Qanba-based (Omron microswitches for the joystick lever just like in a Sanwa JLF) with individual button & joystick lever LED's. Black bat-top & clear shaft cover.

Weight: ~3.5 - 4.0 pounds.

Modding: Hex screws on the top panel & Phillips screws on the bottom panel. Will fit both Sanwa & Seimitsu 30mm buttons & ball-tops.

Additional features: Two options for the LED's (on & pulse aka vibration as there are no vibrating motors). Lockout of Start, Select/Back & Home.

FWIW, the game developers are the same one's that did MKvDCU & the MK-series. Just like the previous PDP MK sticks (TE & Klassic) surprisingly, it has excellent fit & finish. This Gamestop exclusive bundle is for the PS3 & 360 but not for the WiiU (the mention of this in their PR is an error they retracted).

http://www.joystiq.com/2013/01/15/injustice-gods-among-us-hits-april-16-batte-edition-revealed/

PS3:

http://www.gamestop.com/ps3/games/injustice-gods-among-us-battle-edition/107664

360:

http://www.gamestop.com/xbox-360/games/injustice-gods-among-us-battle-edition/107663

2812301-igau_battle_edition_ps3.jpg

2812503-screen_shot_2013_01_15_at_9.44.03_am.png

Edit 2 (4-8-13): Credit goes to forum member, DirtyLary:

BHW_jisCIAAE2HC.jpg:large

From here: http://twitpic.com/ci0g1k

Credit goes to forum member, butteroj:

902171_401613656603479_1229438028_o_zps6c505346.jpg

Credit goes to forum member, LiQuiD[EViL]:

dcbfrb.jpg

What kind of Stick is in the MLG Arcade Stick?

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Hello Everyone,

A friend of mine recently purchased a couple of the MLG arcade sticks for his arcade and he told me that everyone who tried them out was not happy with the feel of the stick itself. People complained that it just felt off to them. I tried it out and I did notice there was a difference. It seemed to require more of a throw to reach the corners of the gate. Considering I have a fairly large hand, I actually found this to be quite refreshing. Hitting diagonal inputs seemed much easier with this stick than on the normal gate. There were even some moves I normally struggle with on my hitbox that were easy to do with the MLG arcade stick.

Though, I'm still not exactly sure what is so different about this stick compared to the normal sticks out there. Does anyone know what kind of stick is in the MLG's and where I can find one? I would prefer to put it in a dual modded arcade stick like a Qanba. If anyone can shed light on this please feel free.

Thanks,

UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

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Introduction -

Alright, folks, here it is, a fully consolized CPS2. And when I say fully consolized I don't mean with some monstrous external power supply and DB 15 connectors that require custom joysticks or adapters. I'm talking about a setup where everything is "off the shelf."

The core elements of this project are: Power, Video, and Controls:

Power - Internal DC/DC converter. An off the shelf laptop charger supplies this board with power which is then converted to proper voltages necessary to run everything inside.

Video - [NTSC] Composite, S-Video, and low resolution RGB+S (no component). Uses a standard off the shelf Playstation A/V port cable.

Controls - 2 Player XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support. Yes, you just plug and play.

Photos of one of my prototypes:

th_DSC07928.jpgth_DSC07925.jpgth_DSC07923.jpg
th_DSC08337.jpg
th_DSC08335.jpg

Location Tests -

Devastation 2011 - Phoenix, AZ (early prototype, hard-wired controls)
th_DSC07913.jpg

Evolution 2012 - Las Vegas, NV (prototype, XBOX 360 support)
th_DSC08205.jpg

This is It! 2012 - Tucson, AZ (prototype, PS3 & XBOX 360 support)
th_DSC08316.jpg

F.A.Q. -

Ordering:
Spoiler:
Q: Can I pre-order one of these now?
A: I am not opening up pre-orders for this quite yet. When I am ready to order parts in bulk and build these in batches, I will likely open up for pre-orders. Until then, hang tight and when I am ready to release these to the public, this post will be updated with a link to a sales thread.

Q: If I can't pre-order, can I get on some sort of waiting list?
A: I really just want to focus on getting to full production before I worry about who was in line first. I have no intention of limiting production on this, so Lord permitting, there will be plenty.

General:
Spoiler:
Q: What region/color B Board (Game Cartridge) will run on the UD-CPS2?
A: The standard compatibility for the UD-CPS2 is US/Blue and JP/Green (and RENTAL/Yellow, as far as I know). If one desires to play ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange games, a custom order can be placed for a unit which is compatible with (only!) one of those.

Q: I already have a laptop power supply. Can I save money on my order and just use mine?
A: No. I'd rather you start with a setup that has already been guaranteed to work than spend any time trying to figure out why power supply x isn't working properly.

Q: I already have an A Board. Can I save money on my order and just send you mine?
A: Yes. You can save $20 off of your order by doing so. If you do the math on the cost of shipping vs. what you are saving, it makes sense to just keep your A Board. The only instances I can recommend sending me your A Board are: 1.) I am out of A Boards, 2.) you would like an ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange compatible system, or 3.) you want an absolutely mint condition A Board and you happen to have one.

Q: Will this still work on an arcade cabinet?
A: No. The intent of this device is to reach outside of the arcade savvy audiences, so no effort has been made to retain those functions.

Video Related:
Spoiler:
Q: I'm tired of lugging around a heavy CRT TV to gatherings/tournaments. Being able to hook this up to a monitor would be a huge convenience. Is there any way to have Component Video available for this?
A: Not natively. You could run the UD-CPS2's RGBS output through an RGB to Component transcoder (like this) to output 240p Component Video, but any HD monitor (that actually supports 240p) must upscale that resolution in order to display it. Upscaling inevitably adds lag to your setup, therefore (non-HD) CRTs are the lag free display of choice for this system.

Q: I would like to stream/capture video from this unit. Do you have a recommended setup?
A: In the realm of standard resolution, the highest video quality for the least amount of hardware headache is certainly S-Video. By simply running S-Video and Stereo Audio to a distribution amplifier (like this or CE Labs AV 400SV) you can run both the player setup and stream/capture setup at excellent quality with fairly little extra hardware/cabling.

Q: Will this output PAL video?
A: No. There are no immediate plans to add PAL support.

Spinoff Products -

Look forward to some spinoff products regarding the USB host, such as USB to DB-15. Based on some interest, I'll also be making available the internal DC/DC converter so people can use those in their own consolization/supergun projects! When those are available, I will update this post with a link to a separate thread.

The rest of this thread is a work log from early in the project up to the present...

The New Definitive HDTV Lag FAQ

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RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.
RESPONSE TIME HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH LAG.

It's 2009, and HDTVs are still as laggy as ever. Let's take a look at what went wrong, and how a savvy consumer can now eliminate the issue altogether. If you're unfamiliar with any of the terms in this FAQ, read a general HDTV guide first. This guide will not benefit you if you don't understand the very basics of HDTVs.

For our intents and purposes, the old HDTV FAQ is a now outdated, so please refer to this one for the most current and relevant information.


Why do games lag on HDTVs?

There are two different reasons for this, and either one or both can contribute to the overall delay on an HDTV.

A] Scaling/Deinterlacing: The HDTV is fed a signal different from its native resolution. The HDTV experiences a processing delay while scaling the signal (example: 480i signal from PS2 to 1080p HDTV).
B] Postprocessing: Postprocessing consists of additional features on HDTVs to clean up or "improve" the visual picture quality of images (example: 1080p signal from PS3 to 1080p Samsung HDTV still has lag).


What is wrong with Postprocessing?

The key issue with Postprocessing in consumer-grade displays is that it isn't optional. Many HDTVs have a "Game Mode" in which the main purpose is to disable both Scaling/Deinterlacing delay and Postprocessing delay. However, even with "Game Mode" enabled, most HDTVs still suffer from lag due to postprocessing that simply can't be disabled.


How much does my set suffer from HDTV Game Lag?

There are two different ways to test this. One is with a copy of Guitar Hero II or higher. These titles includes a calibration test, which gives you the delay in milliseconds after testing a "note" going down the screen. You can strum with the D-Pad of your controller (no guitar controller necessary).

The other way is with a copy of Rock Band 2. Rock Band 2 includes a calibration test with no input required from the user. The lag is measured automatically using the Rock Band 2 Guitar and Microphone. This is the most accurate method at the time of this writing for the average consumer to measure HDTV Game Lag.

You'll want to conduct two different tests, one for HD resolution (720p, 1080i/p) and one for non-HD resolution (480i/p). You can accomplish this by changing the resolution in your X-Box 360 or PS3 settings.

!!!!!!!!!!!DO NOT ASK OTHER PEOPLE HOW MUCH AN HDTV LAGS! TEST IT YOURSELF AND POST RESULTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!DO NOT ASK OTHER PEOPLE HOW MUCH AN HDTV LAGS! TEST IT YOURSELF AND POST RESULTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!DO NOT ASK OTHER PEOPLE HOW MUCH AN HDTV LAGS! TEST IT YOURSELF AND POST RESULTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!DO NOT ASK OTHER PEOPLE HOW MUCH AN HDTV LAGS! TEST IT YOURSELF AND POST RESULTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!DO NOT ASK OTHER PEOPLE HOW MUCH AN HDTV LAGS! TEST IT YOURSELF AND POST RESULTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why is this important? There are THOUSANDS of HDTVs. Nobody knows how much X or Y HDTV lags off the top of their head--even if they own the HDTV, most people are royal newbs so they're not going to actually do a real test (like Rock Band 2), they're just going to pull some shit out of their ass and tell you it's fine when they play Halo 3 and live in permanent denial.

The only way to see if an HDTV you want to buy lags is to go to the store and test it yourself with Guitar Hero 2+ or preferably Rock Band 2. If you bought your HDTV from a retail store, there is a 99.9% chance it lags, and probably still lags even with Game Mode enabled. If you are buying your HDTV online because of a "good deal" or whatever, good for you, but you ARE taking a risk and nobody can help you. Anyway, relax--that's what this guide is for, to help you get around the lag anyway.

Frame Conversion:

1 frame is approximately 17 milliseconds.
Ideal (unnoticeable) delay for fighting or rhythm games is 8 milliseconds or less, or 1/2 of a frame.

Acceptable (playable) delay is 9 to 34 milliseconds, or 1/2 of a frame to 2 frames. Note that while gameplay will still be affected by a delay of 2 frames, most people will still have a difficult time noticing the difference immediately.

Unacceptable (unplayable) delay is over 34 milliseconds, or anything higher than 2 frames. Typically, this is a point when timing-sensitive gamers will even feel a delay at the menu screen or with the cursor when selecting a character.


The Best Solution: Commercial-grade HDTV Displays

What if there were an HDTV that had both lightning-fast scaling as well as no unnecessary and bloated postprocessing?

Guess what: they're here. They're just not marketed towards you and me. They are marketed towards Emergency Centers, Network Operations Centers, hospitals, airports, and other businesses requiring accurate, up-to-the-millisecond digital signage under a 24x7 environment. To see more, Google "digital signage" or similar. The same type of monitors are used in HD arcade cabinets, which is why they don't lag.

While these sets do not typically include HDTV tuners (and thus, are not officially sold as televisions), 95% of you HDTV watchers probably have a box from your cable company that does this already. Just hook it up through Component/DVI/HDMI and you're ready to roll.

Better yet, Commercial-grade HDTVs do not have ridiculous branding all over the monitor bezel like your typical Sharp, Samsung, or Sony. They are simplistic and classy, like something you'd see in a movie. This is just my opinion, but I think that the 2008 HDTV models from these companies have looked hideous; definitely not something I'd want to mount on my wall.

Without further adieu, my newest HD display, the Viewsonic CD4620:

http://www.viewsonic.com/products/digital-signage/cd4620.htm


Purchased from Newegg at the link below:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116111


This set has a definite 4ms or lower delay on every signal I've thrown at it so far, both SD and HD with no extra gadgets required. The price is definitely high for a 46" display, but was still about $500 cheaper than a 46" 2008 Sony Bravia XBR6 and thousands cheaper than the XBR8. Furthermore, unlike the Sony Bravia sets, this one doesn't lag!


The next-best solution: HD Fury or Console VGA cable
This is the best solution if you have already made your HDTV purchase and do not plan on upgrading!

http://www.hdfury.com/

The HD Fury is a device that allows you to connect any HDMI device (with HDCP) to a regular analog RGB input port. The original intention of this device is to hook up HDMI devices to analog-only monitors or projectors, and strip the HDCP protection for standard viewing. In our situation, we might be able to eliminate lag with it.

How? Turns out, many (but not all) HDTVs don't have postprocessing enabled on the VGA port only. That means if you simply plug your PS3/X360 into the VGA port, you should be able to both get high-definition output (with Blu-Ray support, etc) but avoid the 40+ms lag induced by most consumer HDTV postprocessing. The HD Fury doesn't actually do any upscaling or downscaling; it simply converts the signal from digital to analog.

If it's an X-Box 360 you need to hook up, there is an official Microsoft VGA Cable which will accomplish the same thing with much less work.

If it's a PS3 or Wii you need to hook up, there is a 3rd party cable that ought to do the trick.


These cables should take care of what the HD Fury does much more cheaply, but of course only work with the specific consoles!


What about my Playstation 2 or older console?

If you're still worried about gaming on your PS2, you can still use the HD PRO BOX (Cheap!) or the XRGB-2+ to get a "straight-to-VGA" connection for HDTVs and also rid yourself of those pesky 480i signals that would've caused even more lag.

Remember that Dreamcast doesn't need an upscaling box, you can simply purchase a Dreamcast VGA box and hook it up straight to your HDTV's VGA port for theoretical lag-free gaming.

There's also the excellent DVDO Edge, which completely eliminates upscaling lag but won't do much for postprocessing lag issues. If you were to pair this up with an HD Fury, you'd have the ultimate combination since you could hook up all of your consoles to the DVDO Edge and then output everything at once to your HDTV's lag-free VGA port!


~~

Let's get cracking on a lag-free future!

Madcatz TE S+ and Xbox 360

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I leave my madcatz fightstick connected to my xbox360 and for some strange reason it won't turn on when I turn on my xbox i have to unplug it and plug it back it. Can someone answer my question please and thank you
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