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The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

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Welcome Sheets:
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf

MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip

Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/

Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.

Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis

Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.

_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:

Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.

Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.

Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)

Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)

Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread

Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.

Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.

Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.

Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.

Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power

Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack

Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.

Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.

Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.

Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.

Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework

Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:
Spoiler:

PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS

PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select

PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)

1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X

Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A

Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start

Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks

NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)

NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A

NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start

SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select

Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L

3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop

TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)

Normal:
1K: II
2K: I

Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I

Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I


Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.

Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.

Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.

Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.

Q: What about converter support?
A:
Spoiler:
Tested as working:
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)

Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
____________
ChimpSMD Questions

Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.

Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577

Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.

Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.

Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.

Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.

Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp

Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306


Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3:
[] /\  R1  L1
 X  O  R2  L2
For Xbox360:
X  Y  RB  LB
A  B  RT  LT
You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.

Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.

Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.

Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.

Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:

If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:

Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)

If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.

Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html

Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.

Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.

The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!!

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I figured we need a place for everyone to post their Arcade Cabinets. Custom Built, MAME Machines, Cocktails, Straight from the arcade, Whatever!!!

I've seen some really nice cab's here, but it's hard to find them all.

I'll start.

101_0996-1.jpg

This is my Dynamo 20" Street Fighter 2 Cab. Currently houses a PS2 with hacked DS1 pads under the CP.

101_0985.jpg

Up next is my Current WIP. It's a vewlix style cab using T5's as a CP. This should be done in a few weeks.

101_0874.jpg

Last is my MAME setup. Usually going for high scores in Donkey Kong. Had to build the CP from scratch. Pretty Stoked about how it came out.



Alright all, let's see some Cabs!!!

TE-S "S" logo?

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Hey guys, I was wondering if any of you know where I can find the S logo on the MC TE-S. I am trying to make my custom artwork but I want that S just to solidify that it is indeed the slimmer version.

Titan One converter is the new and improved Cronus?

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http://www.extreme-mods.com/Titan-One-for-Playstation-4-PS4-Xbox-One-Xbox-360-Playstation-3-PS3_p_5513.html

Does anyone know if these will be tournament legal? I know the old Cronus was banned because it drew too much power and could cause dropped inputs for the other player but they specifically mention that as a fixed feature from the Cronus. Anyone have any experience using these? Also works with PS4 / XB1, so it could be a pretty good stick solution if its lag free and the dropped inputs problem is fixed.

Can´t update PS360+ firmware

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Im triying to update mi PCB PS360+ (The actual firmware is 1.2
) using the official doc. for Akishop.

I already google it and the "solution" that I get is copy the .dll in the "usb" folder, but a get the same error, anyone knows how to fix it?

And when I try to connect via USB I get the following error:
6b2mzu.png


and my Laptop specs are:
HeBdmu.png

LS-40 and JLW mods thread (JLW-01 and JL-40W featured)

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Disclosure: Paradise has sent me parts at no charge for R&D on my own projects and Paradise also sells some of my products. I've worked side by side with PAS at EVO and also been paid for services rendered to PAS. I've also promoted products made by Jasen Hicks and his company at a booth and convention. I've also been sent a product for R&D collaboration by Jasen Hicks. Just being as transparent as possible here on out, especially as I write articles here and there with parts provided by said parties.

No secret that the JLW is one of my favorite sticks ever. It's an excellent stick, very similar to the LS-40, probably my second favorite stick every. The LS-40 was the first legitimate stick I ever bought after using a MadCatz SE JLF knock off. The JLW was the last stick I've fiddled with out of nearly every Japanese stick on the market. I guess you could say, first love still strong and save the best for last?

As much as I love the LS-40, there was always things that bothered me about it. Spring tension was definitely a step up from the JLF, however, the short shaft mounting on just about any configuration you can think of unless using a S plate on a metal control panel always left me wanting. Aside from that, it's a great stick.

JLW, is pretty much nearly the same as a LS-40. Some minor differences but things the JLW has that the LS-40 lacked was an extended shaft (even longer than JLF) and a nice spring tension you can't find in other Japanese sticks. Basically, JLW fills the gaps that the LS-40 lacked. However, there are some things the LS-40 fills that the JLW doesn't, such as, a more accurate gate and how switches sit on the body are handled.

What's that?

Yeah, so recently I've found myself enjoying little to no switch tension and all spring tension. It makes for a lovely smooth operating stick, something you can't get with a floppy spring and high tension switches. While I still feel high tension switches can be nice, at times, I just want something seriously smooth. This is where Magenta (@armi0024‌ so ready for it) or Zippy 20 gram switches comes into play. On a JLW, this is a very nice set up. You still have good spring tension and little resistance as you hit directions, something you simply can't get with other stick setups.

This lead me to explore modding the JLW, something I didn't really feel a need to do because for the most part, the JLW is an excellent stock lever, more so than just about every other lever on the market.

I'll cover this in detail in posts 3 and 4 of this thread. For now, I'm going to cover a very simple, but effective JLW mod.

The JLW-01

Mod Theory:
So uh, ever think "Hey, I'd love it if the JLW had a PCB!" No? Fuck you then! For serious, it's not something that really crossed my mind either but it's really easy to do.

Tools required:
LS-32-01 PCB
Screw driver

Optional:
Crimpers
Soldering iron
Set of choice switches
Thick gauge wire
.187 quick disconnects

Process:

Not going to take a million pictures for this one because it's pretty straight forward.

If you're like me, you probably despise the LS-32. It's a stumpy short dick lever with a bad pivot. Imagine being a super horny female and LS-32 is the guy who takes you home. You unzip his pants and see a short dick stump, but you let him mount you anyway only to find out his lack of length leaves much to be desired and his girth is a little too wide for most practical purposes. Before you're even done, LS-32 busts a nut and rolls over to fall asleep, leaving you unfulfilled and feeling dirty, knowing the next day he'll tell all his buds what a pimp he is and those dudes will tell everyone in turn how pimping LS-32 tis because he's so old school. Yeah, that's LS-32. But hey, guess what? It's not all bad, even after a night of bad sex not all is lost, because LS-32 left his wallet.

In his wallet is a beautiful PCB ready to use on some real hardware. It's 100% compatible with JLW, easy drop in replacement. It's a tad snug, but works amazingly well. The problem is if you don't like the switches, you're a bit out of luck unless you want to do optional mods to it. The switches are about the same tension as the Sanwa re-branded Zippy switches that come with the JLW.

Behold, for here it be on real hardware. No short dick tree stump girthy levers here, yo!
Spoiler:
01.JPG

Optional mods are to desolder the original switches and solder wires to the soldering points, then crimping on quick disconnects for easy switch swapping. I am not interested in tackling this particular mod just yet, but when I do, I will upload pictures and edit this post.

Anyway, once done, enjoy your JLW-01. Makes it a much easier drop in replacement for mass produced sticks. MadCatz SE, Brawl, TvC, and KE sticks will need destructive modding to the case to drop it in because of the mounting plates not fitting. Easy to fix with Dremel.

DIY Analog sticks for padhacks

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Hi forum, I've been reading the various threads about making arcade sticks, but what I'm personally after is a plug n play replacement for the entire controller, down to the analog sticks.

The only appropriate stick I've found is the Suzo-Happ ultimate analog stick, which has 5k pots but you can order 10k ones instead (for 30 bucks more), which brings each stick to around 200 bucks which is probably way out of the budget for most DIY projects. I might go that route if my investigations in DIY don't pan out.

Basically, what I've done so far (aside from tons of research) is desoldered one of the analog sticks from an old 360 gamepad, to inspect the mechanics of the stick itself. I then re-wired up the pots and tested I didn't melt something via my PC control panel and the axis still works fine as I twist a screwdriver to rotate the potentiometer.

My idea to make this do-able / cheap enough, is to scale up the analog sticks enclosure to something bigger and more rugged, suitable for a drop-in pad hack replacement, using a piece of wood or metal as the base, some brackets to hold a couple heavy duty ball bearings, and then figure out the best way to replicate how the pots are connected, which in my 360 and I presume most other analog sticks (you can buy replacements for Xbone / 360 / PS4 sticks from alibaba for a couple bucks) are merely some small metal clips that hook into the up / down pot.

I just want to make sure that no one has done such a project before (other than those who just gave up when confronted with the Suzo-Happ's prohibitive cost), before proceeding, and if anyone had any insights or tips.

Ideal outcome:
1) 10k pots from Alibaba or ebay are super cheap, figure out some heavy duty ones to get. At worst, buy a couple 10k heavy duty ones from Suzo-Happ which they told me to use for an analog stick pad hack project.
2) Replicate the design of the current sticks at a larger scale using off the shelf or easily available hardware and bearings, etc
3) Share the design and iterate on it with community help / insights
4) Use our dual-analog stick arcade sticks to play any console game, Xbox 360 / One, PS4 / DS4 (for Bluetooth wireless PC compatibility) + CronusMax, PC, Wii / Wii U (via a Wii U Pro controller hack and a cheap wii u remote that we can rig into the cabinet).

At this point, I believe using the DS4 might be better since the Xbox One doesn't communicate to my PC wirelessly, and having wires to your couch or even coffee table (where many arcade sticks would sit during play) is no fun and a step backwards.

Couple questions:
1) Are DS4 analog sticks using 10k pots as well? Because if they use, say, 5k, then I could save about 30 bucks from having to replace the 5k default ones with 10k pots when buying the Suzo-Happ analog sticks. I'm definitely buying at least one to inspect the construction and perhaps try to replicate it with cheaper parts from other arcade joysticks. If not, then that's even better because then it would be electrically compatible with Xbox One and Wii U and 360 pad hacks too. I believe they all use 10k pots, but this is to be confirmed. I asked one of the original manufacturers of the DS4 analog sticks what resistance they have but they didn't answer yet.

2) What springs and off the shelf parts are best to use? I want to build this project in the cheapest possible way, but in a way that's still compatible with most people's preferred arcade joystick parts, like using commodity shafts of various lengths and compatible balltops etc.

Another thing I'm wondering, for down the road, is whether to use digipots instead of analog pots, and print out some kind of greyscale image in a circle, to glue onto each axis, so that one could use, say, a mouse's laser to read the intensity and simply map those values to the 10k pot's inputs somehow. That would allow super high sensitivity and completely eliminate the analog lifespan issues that might arise. A benefit of using optical is that you can print out various greyscale patterns to get whatever dead zone + acceleration curve you want out of your stick. But that's a pro performance upgrade for later.

ZD Arcade Control Encoder And ZD ReMatch (PS3/PS2/PC) (The most cost efficient PCBs to date!)

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I don't know if this is well known or not but i didnt see any threads mentioning this so ill just post everything here.
[copypasta]
Zero Delay Arcade Control Encoder
ZeroDelayEncoderBoardRev2.jpg
The Zero delay is the most cost effective encoder option available. It is plug and play, lag free and very compact. (8.5 cm X 3.5 cm X 1 cm)
The Zero Delay board comes with:
  • USB Cable
  • 4 Wire sets for joystick.
  • 8 Wire sets for 8 buttons, or 12 wire sets if you want to upgrade.
  • Instructions
The Zero Delay also has these additional features for those that wish to utilize them:
  • Hat switch for secondary joystick, POV controls, or console style gaming controls
  • Autofire option
  • Rapidfire option
  • 5 pin port for Japanese (Sanwa) ports
BoardFront.jpg
BoardBack.jpg

FAQ:

Q: What method does this board encode the controls?
A: Controls are encoded like a gamepad.

Q: How do I hook up the controls?
A: one end of the wire plugs right into the board port, the other end connectors into the joystick or button switch. The included instructions will let you know what each port maps to. The terminals will fit up to .187 size terminals, which is the most common size for arcade switches. If you have switches that take the larger .25 terminals, you can either soldier on the terminals or crimp on new connectors.

Q: Have these boards been inspected?
A: Each board was given QC initials. Also, I have personally plugged every board in my PC and determined that it registers correctly with the PC. I have also visually inspected all the wires and boards.

Q: How should payment be made?
A: I am set up for Paypal. If you are interested in purchasing, send me a PM.

Q: Is this compatible with PS3?
A: I have had a chance to try it out, yes, it worked great. It should be great for fighters!

Q: Does it need special software?
A: It uses the standard joystick drivers on the computer, no software needed!
[/copypasta'd]

I'm sure you all are dying to know the price by now, this thing only cost $14.75 SHIPPED!

I personally haven't had a chance to FULLY test these out myself but so far they're holding up as promised. The main thing i wanted to test out on this is to see if optical joysticks work with this thing. I haven't had much luck but they're several VCC points on the PCB so someone else who's more hella tech savvier can test that out themselves.

I also don't know how long these things hold out or last but for $14.75 shipped that really shouldn't even be an issue. And for all you skeptic ass niggas out there that think this is too good to be true:
Spoiler:
101_0455.jpg 101_0458.jpg

Im not sure if im allowed to link to other forums to where you can buy it, so if you're interested in this and want to talk to the man himself thats selling these send me a convo and ill link you to his thread....or better yet just google it and and im sure you'll get a direct hit...lol

Again, this is compatible with PS3 and PC ONLY! sorry Xbox 360 heads. You lose out once again.........blame Micro$oft.

Just wanted to let those in the dark know whats up. If you have any question feel free to ask.
That is all.

EDIT:
Fuck it.
EncoderBanner.jpg
eb476b4dda56f9cfea44fcfcd91fa127.gif.....CLICK DAT!

So i modded my first arcade stick a while back.

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So i modded my first arcade stick a while back, and while exchanging the buttons i ran into a little issue. I broke every god damn button possible. Now the second time through im not as bad, i messed up the side clip things on one out of 8 buttons but nothing i couldnt fix with some elbow grease real quick. Does anyone have any insight on how much power you need to take out a button/ a better way to do so than i have been? im a pretty big dude so when i push in on the side clips on sanwa buttons i push pretty hard by accident.

Chat with TE2 on PS4

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Hello everyone, I did a quick search and did not notice this already asked. How do you chat while using the Madcatz TE2 stick on PS4? I did not see a mic port on my stick anywhere unless I managed to miss it. Really hope your not expected to keep a headset hooked to a separate controller to chat with? Not even sure how well that would work with the games yet.

How Many Arcade Sticks Do You Own

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I'm considering buying my 3rd arcade stick. I think its kinda silly to own more than one arcade stick, but I just can't help myself. I just want to collect the best looking arcade sticks. How many fightsticks/arcade sticks do you own? Which one is your favorite? I personally like the Mad Catz Pro stick because of the arm rests.

Has anyone played on a PC using a PS2 controller with USB adapter?

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I'm using a PS2 controller with USB adapter, and it's not too bad. There are some disadvantages though:

* Dashing with the analog stick is a nightmare.
* Any move with the d-pad is a nightmare.

I heard there are input delays when you use a USB adapter, is this true? should I get a X360 controller since Windows supports it natively?

Silent Kuro buttons and HSS?

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Has anybody used these yet? I know the normal versions are out and around but I just ordered that Midnight Edition HRAP v4 with the silent stick and buttons stock, I can't find a single reported experience using them. I just wanted to know how quiet they are compared to the sanwa silent parts

The ebten GG Xrd stick

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Did anyone else get this? I'm curious to know other people's opinions on it. What character button came with yours? Mine was Elphelt and I read that one other person got May.

The main thing I wanted to ask about were the papers that came with the stick; I was hoping someone could translate them. The first is the manual that came with the extra art panels:

http://imgur.com/tki6ziV
http://imgur.com/0tH6vou

These came in the smaller envelope that included the character button.

http://imgur.com/7LF8IMr
http://imgur.com/BmEFvLx

Last thing is: how do I change the artwork? I know I have to take the nubs off the front but I don't want to scratch the plexiglass.

Sub 1 frame HDTV/Monitor Input Lag Database

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Purpose: To index input lag (average) results from various HDTVs and monitors that have sub 1 frame (16.66ms) of lag when compared to a CRT TV or Monitor.

Sources:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk - Test LCD monitors for input lag compared to a CRT monitor.

http://www.prad.de - Test input lag using an oscilloscope.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk - Test the latest HDTV's for input lag compared to a CRT display. (Which they started doing from April 2010)

The New Definitive HDTV Lag FAQ - Been through 55 pages (Will complete looking through the thread in the coming days) or so and will add the monitors or HDTVs that lag less than 1 frame compared to CRT. http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-new-definitive-hdtv-lag-faq.55593/

Testing Methods:


Please refer to TFTCentral's article on testing methods.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/input_lag.htm

Preferred Testing Program / Hardware:

SMTT v2.0 or Oscilloscope.

http://smtt.thomasthiemann.com/index_en.html (SMTT Homepage)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope (Info on Oscilloscopes.)

How you can help: If you find that I have missed a HDTV or Monitor that has sub 1frame (average) of lag compared to a CRT please link to the test and results. If everything checks out it will be added to the list.

HDTVs:

Sony 32W400 - 8.6ms input lag 32" 1080p

Panasonic TC-L32X1 - 8-9ms input lag 32" 720p

Samsung LE32C530 - 14ms input lag (Any mode) 32" 1080p (U.S model LA32C530)

Panasonic TX-P50ST50B - 16ms input lag 50" 1080p (U.S model TC-P50ST50)

Samsung UE32D5000 - 16ms input lag 32" 1080p (U.S model UA32D5000)

Samsung LE32C450 - 16ms input lag 32" 720p (U.S model LA32C450)

Panasonic TX-P42S30B - 16ms input lag 42" 1080p (U.S model TC-P42S30)

Panasonic TX-P42C3B - 16ms input lag 42" 1024×768

Panasonic TX-P42ST30B - 16ms input lag 42" 1080p (U.S model TC-P42ST30)

Panasonic TX-P50S20B - 16ms input lag (Game picture mode) 50" 1080p

Panasonic TX-P42GT20 - 16ms input lag (2D to 3D conversion mode only) 42" 1080p

Panasonic TX-P42VT20B - 16ms input lag (2D to 3D conversion mode only) 42" 1080p

Panasonic TX-P46VT20B - 16ms input lag (2D to 3D conversion mode only) 46" 1080p

LG 32LD450 - 16ms input lag (Game picture mode) 32" 1080p

Samsung PS51D550 - 16ms input lag (HDMI 1 input label set to PC) 51" 1080p (U.S model PN51D550)

Samsung PS51D6900 - 16ms input lag (HDMI 1 input label set to PC) 51" (U.S model PS516900)

Toshiba 47VL863B - 16ms input lag (Game picture mode) 47" 1080p

User Reviewed HDTV's:

An area for user reviews of HDTV's that don't have hard results, however according to the poster "feels" to have low input lag. This section was added due to the very limited number of HDTV reviews that actually test for input lag. So, these HDTV's listed might be worth trying out at a store for yourself.

Samsung UE32EH5000 - low input lag 32" 1080p User Review

Monitors:

Dell E228WFP - 3ms input lag TN Film 22" 1680x1050 (User Tested)

Dell S2330MX - 3.8ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

Acer S243HLAbmii - 3.8ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

Philips 273P3LPHES - 4.4ms input lag (SmartResponse "On") TN Film 27" 1920x1080

ASUS MS238H - 5.05ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

AOC e2352Phz - 5.1ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

Samsung C27A750X - 5.3ms input lag (Fastest setting enabled) TN Film 27" 1920x1080

BenQ XL2410T - 5.6ms input lag (Instant = On) TN Film 120Hz 24" 1920x1080

Sceptre X270W - 5.75ms input lag TN Film 27" 1920x1080

BenQ GW2750HM - 6ms input lag AMVA27" 1920x1080

BenQ GW2450HM - 6ms input lag AMVA24" 1920x1080

LG IPS231P - 6.9ms input lag (user mode) e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

ASUS MS246H - 6.9ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

ASUS VE228H - 7ms input lag TN Film 22" 1920x1080

Samsung SM245B - 7.5ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1200

Hazro HZ30W - 7.5ms input lag S-IPS 30" 2560x1600

Hazro HZ26Wi - 7.5ms input lag H-IPS 26" 1920x1200

Asus VG278H - 7.9ms input lag (at 60Hz) TN Film 27" 1920x1080

NEC EA232WMi - 8.1ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Dell U2311H - 8.2ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

ASUS VE247H - 8.3ms input lag TN Film 23.6" 1920x1080

ASUS VH236H - 8.3ms input lag (game mode) TN Film 23" 1920x1080 (A.K.A EVO MONITOR)

ASUS VH238H - 8.3ms input lag TN Film 23" 1920x1080

Dell G2410H - 8.59ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

Hazro HZ27WC - 8.8ms input lag H-IPS 27" 2560x1440

NEC EA231WMi - 8.8ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Asus PA238Q - 8.9ms input lag P-IPS 23" 1920x1080p (Factory Setting)

Dell U2312HM - 9.3ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

LG L227WT - 9.4ms input lag TN Film 22" 1680x1050

Viewsonic VX2739wm - 9.4ms input lag TN Film 27" 1920x1080

Dell U2412M - 9.4ms input lag e-IPS 24" 1920x1200

HP ZR24W - 10ms input lag e-IPS 24" 1920x1200

Samsung F2380 - 10.6ms input lag cPVA 23" 1920x1080

Dell U2311H - 10.6ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

HP ZR30W - 11.26ms input lag S-IPS 30" 2560 x 1600

Hazro HZ27WB - 11.3ms input lag H-IPS 27" 2560x1440

ASUS VG236H - 12ms input lag TN Film 120Hz 23" 1920x1080

LG E2711PY-BN - 12.9ms input lag TN Film 27" 1920x1080

Apple 27" Cinema Display - 12.73ms input lag IPS 27" 2560x1440 (Late 2010 model)

BenQ XL2420T - 13ms input lag TN Film 24" 1920x1080

Dell U2410 - 14.4ms input lag (Game mode) H-IPS 24" 1920x1200

Hazro HZ30Wi - 14.4ms input lag H-IPS 30" 2560x1600

LG IPS235V - 14.7ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Samsung 2233RZ - 15ms input lag TN Film 22" 1680x1050

ASUS ML239H - 15ms input lag e-IPS 23" 1920x1080

Dell U2211H - 15.6ms e-IPS 22" 1920x1080

Panel Technologies TN Film, MVA, PVA and IPS Explained

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/panel_technologies_content.htm

newbie soldering selection help

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So I just got a weller 8200pks 100w soldering iron from home depot for christmas but it seems I have to return it. The reason I have to return is because I read that this gun isnt good for pcbs and im not sure if its good for headphone wiring either. Would you guys be able to help me choose a 20-30 dollar soldering thats decent enough for headphone wiring and pcb jobs? Your help would be greatly appreciated and merry christmas guys/gals.

** Focusattack.com fighting game store **

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Hey all,

Thought it was high time to formally introduce myself and my shop. I'm Jaleel, the owner of Focusattack.com and fellow Guile main (Akuma looks great as an avatar, though). Focusattack was started in 2009 with the intention of bringing all sorts sweet of fighting game merch to the community. It's grown to highlight the modding community, with joystick parts, custom accessories and other unique items. The shop also embraces unique items designed by players right in the community.

» Go to latest page

So what's the deal? Why go to focusattack.com?
  • Competitive prices on joystick parts. Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks, buttons and balltops/battops. We may not have everything the big guys do, but we strive to offer the best prices on them, and the list keeps growing.
  • Order fulfillment is fast. We usually ship within 1-2 business days of your order, or sometimes within 24 hours!
  • Unique items from the community. Check our unique section "Made in the FGC" for a list of products made for players, by players!
  • Contests -- we often offer our products as great contest prizes for players around the world!
  • Worldwide shipping: We'll ship anywhere that USPS can deliver. We also ship to US forwarding mailboxes courtesy of BONGO.
  • Helpful, Quick Service - No one likes to wait...Have questions about your order? You can now contact fulfillment@focusattack.com. Any other questions? You can hit me up via email (service@focusattack.com), Twitter, Facebook or here on SRK with any questions. I'll personally respond within 24 hours.
  • Focusattack.com is giving to the tournaments you attend with prize sponsorships, adding to the winner's pot, and participating in other community related events. We do this more than most other arcade shops.
[media=youtube]4DUYbwe10Vg[/media]

Those are just some reasons to check out the site. :) You might know a friend or two on SRK that purchased from focusattack and have good things to say. If you have any questions, hit up any of the places I mentioned or post them here on this thread. I'll gladly answer them.

That's it for now. Remember that we always highly value you, the player, the joystick builder, and the joystick enthusiast. If you have any questions, drop me a line via SRK PM, Twitter, Facebook, or service@focusattack.com.

Take care.
Jaleel
Final Boss
Focusattack.com

Hori RAP VX SA Kai wont work with PC

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Hi there, im new to this Forum so go easy on me :)

Well, i recently bought an Hori VX SA Kai to use it with my almost new PC
(Windows 7 64x, MSI Z77A-G45). Latest chipset drivers, graphics and so on are installed. Also the latest XBox Accesoires Software.

My xbox360 gamepad works just fine but when i plugin my VX SA the 4 green lights on the X-Button light up for 1 sec and it goes off. Windows tells me no Drivers can be found. In the Device Manager the device is listed as RAP.NX with the yellow exclamation mark.

On my Windows 8 Laptop the Stick works with no problems with the same XBox Controller software.

I already tried uninstalling and reinstalling the XBox Accesoires Software a few times, no change at all. Is it possible that my mainboard (MSI Z77A-G45) is incompatible with this Stick or does the Stick get to less power which i dont think because no other sources are connected to the mainboard except mouse and keyboard and the power supply has over 650 watts. It must be a driver/registry problem...or sth else...
I cant find anything on google with helpful information relating to this specific problem...and there are of course no Drivers around for the RAP.NX Device, only the XBox software, which "should" work...

bsm2.jpg
vlpo.jpg
r1il.jpg

Good PS2 Arcade Sticks?

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I was just wondering if there was anything like a TE for the PlayStation 2; something sturdy with actual arcade parts in it. Is the only option to either get my TE modded or to make my own stick?

The reason I'm asking is because I'm trying to speedrun Mega Man Classic & Mega Man X games on my PS2 (with MM Anniversary Collection and MMX Collection), and I'm so used to playing Mega Man fan games on my PC with an arcade stick (since it's far superior to using a controller) that I kind of need one not to stink so bad. Also, using a controller tends to make my hands cramp up more than an arcade stick.

Big Arcade Naomi Marvel Vs Capcom 2 Problem.

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I put a Marvel Vs Capcom 2 arcade machine at some liquor store and when I set it to coin operated, it always has 24 credits installed. Even when I use up all the credits and turn it off and turn it on, it always has 24 credits installed. That's a big problem.

Does anyone know how to fix this? Having 24 free credits installed every time the machine is turned on is not good.

Please help!!!

Thanks in advance.
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