I'm sorry if it feels like I'm posting too much on the same topic, but I have no one else to ask other than Google. I have a basic knowledge of electronic principles but I've never made a fight sick or any other controller, or anything for that matter. Just class projects.



Anyone have Any idea on how I'll connect these to one of those custom PCBs or console controller PCBs? Should it respond the same as an analog stick on a controller? The JLK-GF2-AT is analog. Info please & thank you

So it looks like my dog decided to chew on my cord and now I can't connect my fightstick to the xbox. I've searched the internet far and wide and can't seem to find a place to buy a replacement cable. Has anyone had any luck tracking one down? I emailed madcatz but I was hoping I could just order one already, I need me some Killer Instinct.

This post is in progress and will forever need updating.





IF YOU ARE ABLE TO HELP PROVIDE INFORMATION, PHOTOS, DETAILS, OR PERHAPS EVEN HELP DO RESEARCH USING THE LINKS AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS FIRST POST IN SPOILER TAGS AND REPORT BACK, IT IS MUCH APPRECIATED.




It's taken me a lot of time to gather this information up so far, put it in a neat format, find photos and resize etc. If you can volunteer to help for the good of all arcade stick lovers and SRK TT, please do.

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First off, I've gotta shout out @Superking for the original post back in July 2005 and for the work he did in keeping track of info and data on the Hori RAP sticks at least up until the middle of the PS2 gen and some of the PS3/360 gen.
Below you'll see the info he organized reworked in a new format with more info and photos.

Original thread (39 pages of topic from July 2005 to mostly April 2012)
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/13083/hori-real-arcade-pro-faq-for-all-versions/p1

If you have general arcade stick questions, please ask in the "Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)" thread
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/194283/absolute-question-and-answer-thread-v-3-ask-your-questions-here

If you desire information on other arcade sticks that are not listed here or want suggestions on what to buy, please visit the "What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting." thread
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/137321/what-stick-controller-should-i-buy-read-the-guide-on-pg-1-before-posting/p1

There will be no tier list, and there will likely not be a "I SUGGEST YOU BUY ________ ARCADE STICK" info.

This is information for you to use to your advantage to make an independent decision based on what features you may or may not enjoy. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not come in to this thread and just ask "Which one should I buy?".
Use knowledge below to grow, think, and learn.

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Listed in order of console:

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Playstation 1 / Playstation 2

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Hori RAP1
-Hori Real Arcade Pro (Mirror Finish)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg or 5.7 lbs)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Mirror finish looks nice but is easily susceptible to scratches and fingerprints
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Hori buttons

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP CFJ
=Hori Capcom Fighting Jam

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Hori buttons

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP1
-Hori Real Arcade Pro Orange Amazon Exclusive

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Hori buttons

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions-
=What is the official title for this arcade stick from Hori?
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP1 SA
-Hori Real Arcade Pro Special Addition
-Special Addition also can be viewed as Hori's way of saying Sanwa (SA)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Sanwa OBSF-30 and OBSF-24

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP1 SE
-Hori Real Arcade Pro Special Edition
-Special Edition also can be viewed as Hori's way of saying Seimitsu (SE)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Seimitsu LS-32-01

Buttons-
-Seimitsu PS-14-GX

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori AH1
-Hori Arcana Heart Arcade Stick
(unsure of official title since it's difficult to find data on now)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (___________)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Hori buttons

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori AH2
-Hori Arcana Heart 2 Arcade Stick
(unsure of official title since it's difficult to find data on now)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (___________)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Buttons-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori FUC-LE
-Hori Real Arcade Pro Stick Fate/Unlimited Codes Limited Edition
(unsure of official title since it's difficult to find data on now)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (___________)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Buttons-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP2
=Hori Real Arcade Pro 2

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Hori buttons

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP2 SA
-Hori Real Arcade Pro 2 Special Addition
-Special Addition also can be viewed as Hori's way of saying Sanwa (SA)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Sanwa OBSF-30 and OBSF-24

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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HRAP SCIII
=Hori Real Arcade Pro Soul Calibur III

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Buttons-
-Hori

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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HRAP Tekken 5 JP
=Hori Real Arcade Pro Tekken 5

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Hori

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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HRAP Tekken 5 10th Anniversary
=Hori Real Arcade Pro Tekken 10th Anniversary

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
-Hori

Buttons-
-Hori

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Playstation 3

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HRAP3
=Hori Real Arcade Pro 3

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-Hori

PCB-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

Wiring-
=NEED INFO/DETAILS

USB Cable-
=PS3 cable exits base on back
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP 3 SE
=Hori Real Arcade Pro. 3 SE

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs


Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Easy Top Panel access through Hex key
+Universal Joystick mount

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations


Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Seimtisu LS-32-01

Buttons-
+Seimitsu PS-14-G, PS-14-D

PCB-
=same as HRAP 3

Wiring-
+Buttons are quick disconnects
+5-pin Joystick Harness

USB Cable-
=USB 2.0
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP 3 BlazBlue
=Hori Real Arcade Pro. 3 BlazBlue

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
+Exclusive BLUE case


Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
-Two-point Joystick Mount (Seimtisu VF/JLF Wings)

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-HORI stock buttons

PCB-
=same as HRAP 3

Wiring-
-Buttons are PCB Mounted
+5-pin Joystick Harness

USB Cable-
=USB 2.0
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP 3 Tekken Tag 2 Prologue
=Hori Real Arcade Pro. 3 Tekken Tag 2 Prologue
+Last ever Original HRAP design produced

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)



Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
-Two-point Joystick Mount (Seimtisu VF/JLF Wings), uses the JLF mounting plate points
+Namco NOIR Layout

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8Y-SK

Buttons-
-HORI stock buttons

PCB-
=Same as HRAP 3

Wiring-
+Buttons are quick disconnects
+5-pin Joystick Harness

USB Cable-
=USB 2.0
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Playstation 4 / Playstation 3

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to edit

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XBox 360

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Hori RAP EX-SA
=Hori Real Arcade Pro. EX-SA

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs


Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Universal Joystick mount

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
+Easy Top Panel access through Hex key

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K

Buttons-
+Sanwa OBSF-30, OBSF-24

PCB-
=same as HRAP EX/EX-SE

Wiring-
=Buttons are quick disconnects, Joystick is individually soldered microswitches

USB Cable-
=USB 2.0
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=Do we have details on the PCBs? CommonG/SecondaryButtonPCB etc?

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Hori RAP Deathsmiles
=Hori Real Arcade Pro. Deathsmiles Stick

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Universal Joystick mount

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K

Buttons-
-HORI stock buttons

PCB-
=same as HRAP EX/EX-SE

Wiring-
+Buttons are quick disconnects
-Joystick is individually soldered microswitches

USB Cable-
=USB 2.0
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP Deathsmiles IIX
=Hori Real Arcade Pro. Deathsmiles IIX Stick

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Namco NOIR Layout
- Two-point Joystick Mount (Seimtisu VF/JLF Wings)

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available NOT AVAILABLE at Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-K

Buttons-
-HORI stock buttons

PCB-
=same as HRAP EX/EX-SE

Wiring-
+Buttons are quick disconnects
-Joystick is individually soldered microswitches

USB Cable-
=USB 2.0
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori RAP Mushihimesama Futari
=Hori Real Arcade Pro. Mushihimesama Futari Stick

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (2.6 kg)
=Sizes - Width = 412mm, Depth = 243mm, Height (including lever) = 135mm
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
+Exclusive GREEN Case

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Universal Joystick mount

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options available via Tek Innovations
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
+Seimtisu LS-32-K-SS2

Buttons-
-HORI stock buttons

PCB-
=same as HRAP EX/EX-SE

Wiring-
+Buttons are quick disconnects
-Joystick is individually soldered microswitches

USB Cable-
=USB 2.0
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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Hori OG
=Hyper Stick Pro Otomedius Gorgeous Ver. (Konamistyle Limited Edition)

SRKTT thread-
=Unknown

Case-
RAP Base
=Weight (_______________)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles made swapping parts and getting 3rd party support easier
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Nuts and bolts for top metal panel are difficult to remove and assemble
=Top loaders available via Tek Innovations allowing removal and assembly of top metal panel easier

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four rubber feet

Joystick-
=Sanwa JLF-TM-8T-SK-GT-B (Octogate)
+Uses Yamatake MS-Y-3 microswitches (not Omron)

Buttons-
=Sanwa OBSF-30, HORI 24mm

PCB-
=Touch screen
=PCB must be unique from other versions of RAP due to touch screen

Wiring-
=Joystick has individually soldered microswitches
+Buttons are quick disconnects

USB Cable-
=PS2/PS1 connector exits plastic base
=No cord compartment

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
=TO EDIT

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XBox One

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to edit

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Uncategorized or detailed yet

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to edit





























BELOW SPOILER TAG IS FOR INFORMATION THAT I HAVE NOT YET BEEN ABLE TO SORT THROUGH OR UTILIZE IN FINDING INFORMATION

Hello everyone,
I just purchased a new laptop and installed steam usf4 and I am noticing a good amount of input lag. Is there something in the in game settings or something that I can change about my computer settings to reduce the input lag?

Here are the specs of my laptop. I'm not sure if there is anything other info that would be useful...

Acer Aspire V15 Nitro Black Edition VN7-591G-7857
Intel Core i7-4720HQ Processor (2.6 GHz)
16 GB DDR3 RAM
1 TB 5400 rpm Hard Drive, 256 GB Solid-State Drive
15.6-Inch Screen, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 860M
Windows 8.1

I'm not interested in purchasing an external monitor as it will not look great in my office lol

This is my first gaming laptop and I have 0 experience gaming on laptop outside of ggpo years ago. I've made changes in the in game settings as suggested on the steam forums (v sync off, etc.) and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Are there settings that I could change on my graphics card to help out? Thanks for your time!

Hi all,

I recently bough a Hayabusa to replace my current sanwa stick, and I'm experiencing input issues. Whenever I do a quick qcf (or hcf) motion from one side, it will register an extra input the other direction. For example, if I do qcf to the left it will input: down, downforward, left, right. It's like snapping back to the other direction somehow. This causes a lot of input issues with the srk input leniency in USF4, and it's not a problem when I qcf from the other direction, nor was it ever a problem when I used my sanwa.

This is my first time installing my own stick so I'm hoping I messed up somehow and its not because the stick itself is defective...

Thanks for any help

I currently have the toodles spark in my stick (from waaaaaay back) and its is really great but i am wondering if that silent stick is any good?

Hey guys,

This is Ryan, better known as LAUGH among fighting game players, and I have recently opened a new web store to better serve the needs of communities around the world.

As a serious gamer myself, I have been sharing and offering items and ideas within the community that I personally used to improve my gaming experience, and it has developed into what is now etokki.com.

My team will continue to offer products and services I have been offering for the community for years such as InPin converters & Xconverter 360 Plus's as well as Korean and Japanese arcade parts, and we hope to continue to bring out the best for all gamers looking for quality products and services.

The store is continuously being added with more products and deals, so be sure to sign up for the mailing list to get the latest news on groundbreaking new products as well as discounts and special deals on various products.

So check out the store and please let us know if there are any questions!

Ryan
www.etokki.com

Hello everyone,

I am a PC player that's why i bought this gorgeous arcade stick (which is PC/PS3) some times ago. But i, often have opportunities to play on Xbox360 : fun with friends and tournaments ; i'm tired of playing on other people's sticks. That's why i am looking for a cheap but lagfree converter to buy.

Quote :
*Recommended* Controller Converter Pro by Blaze (?): This is an unmarked converter that is similar in appearance to the Blaze PS2-360. It notably does not require a 360 controller for passthrough. It reportedly works well with a HRAP3 and features similar compatibility to the Blaze.

But i can't manage to put my hand on this converter so far..
So if you guys know where to buy this kind of stuff, let me know !

Best regards and thanks for any help

PS : I live in Belgium, so a shop in Europe would be more appreciated

It looks like people have been confused, misinformed, or ignorant about preventing SOCD (Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Directions, such as inputting Left and Right at the same time) on All-Button Controllers (ABCs). I've seen posts on SRK such as "If you dual-mod a HitBox, the other system won't have SOCD prevention" and "I converted my stick to an ABC, but I wish I had SOCD prevention on it." I created this thread to show everyone that it's possible to add SOCD prevention to any common ground PCB, and how to do it. I am by no means a Tech Talk guru, so if you see something wrong or have something to add, please speak up!

SRK member Rufus figured out in the "The "Stickless Arcade Stick" Thread" thread that you can use 7400 chips in order to prevent SOCD. 7400 chips are microchips with 4 NAND logic circuits inside of them, and by wiring them up a certain way, you can get them to disallow two inputs on an axis from reaching the PCB.

You will need one 7400 chip per axis. For easiest soldering, you would want to buy 7400 chips meant for through-hole soldering, such as these.

The circuit below will cancel both inputs on an axis to Neutral.


The circuit below will cancel Up + Down to Up. This is how the HitBox handles Up + Down. Some prefer this over canceling to Neutral, because it makes Super-Jumps come out quicker.


You install these circuits between the button's input wire (not the ground wire) and the PCB. The button's input wire goes into the chip, and the filtered output (which has SOCD prevention) comes out of the chip and goes into the PCB. You also need to provide power to the 7400 chips, so connect Pin 14 (Voltage) to Voltage on the PCB, and connect Pin 7 (Ground) to Ground on the PCB.

Some notes on these circuits:
(Optional) For cleaner wiring, you can use a blob of solder to join two adjacent legs instead of using wire.
Each 7400 has a maximum power draw of 22mA according to the datasheet.
If you're worried about input lag, the circuits within the 7400 chips are comprised of discrete analog electronic components with no microprocessor. Therefore, the amount of lag in these circuits is technically a few (<25) nanoseconds, but a 60fps frame is 16666667 nanoseconds... in other words, they don't lag. Check the datasheet if you doubt me.

Some notes on installations (these assume you have built the circuits already):
If you are converting a stick to an ABC, or building your own ABC, or installing these into an ABC without SOCD prevention, and want to prevent SOCD on it, you can install these circuits by connecting a piece of wire to your direction button (the input side and not the ground side), soldering the other end of that wire to the appropriate Input on the 7400 circuit, soldering another wire to the corresponding Output of the 7400 circuit, and connecting the end of that Output wire to the direction on the PCB. If you're installing these into to an ABC without SOCD prevention, disconnect the wires that go directly from your button to your PCB before installing these circuits.

If you are dual-modding a HitBox and want to prevent SOCD on your other PCB, you can install these circuits by connecting a piece of wire to a direction's screw terminal on the HitBox Cthulhu+ PCB, soldering the end of that wire to the appropriate Input on the 7400 circuit, soldering another wire to the corresponding Output of the 7400 circuit, and connecting the end of that Output wire to the direction on the other PCB. edit: I posted an ugly visual aid for using 7400s in a HitBox dual-mod later on in this thread, click here if you want to see it.

Update: 2/26/15

Shafts are now in!

Thanks to everyone who helped out! If you pre-ordered your shaft it will be going out tomorrow or saturday!

Pics:
Recently I got a Suzo 500 and was disappointed with the lack of compatibility with japanese handles, dustcovers, and annoying mounting heights with the stock stick, and was going to get a custom hollow shaft made out when i realized that there were a few others who had previously wanted a suzo 500 shaft as well.

Shaft would be hollow to fit 3mm LEDs and there will be 6mm thread to support JP balltops. The shaft would be shorter than the stock shaft and will utilize 8mm E clips (provided by me) instead of C clips to hold the spring flange. There will also be a slot for a flat head screwdriver to tighten and remove the balltop. Stock shaft covers will not be compatible unless they are shortened in length. Shaft will be stainless steel.

Currently the pricing would be $20 per shaft

You can order direct from me by PM'ing me here or emailing me at D2nd_Pryde@yahoo.com

Edit 12-21:
Some users may have seen the last post by me on this thread along with the picture of a prototype shaft. Well that model was thrown out the window... and replaced with one that has even more grooves for more compatibility

Thanks to many generous users across a handful of different forums, the new shaft now supports the following sticks:

Suzo 500
Happ Competition
Happ Super
IL Eurostick
IL Compact
and the T-Stik

Intro:

Well, folks, it's been a long time coming, but I'm really close to finally getting these things out there and into your hands!

Description:

This is the opposite of boards like Toodles' Cthulhu or the PS360 which take the button/joystick wire signals and turn them into USB. This takes input from your USB 360 or PS3 controller and turns that into button/joystick wire signals. You could use this to control any number of projects from Superguns to robotics, to anything you can imagine that you'd like to control with your digital 360 or PS3 joystick!

These are essentially the same circuit and firmware as that of the UD-CPS2 (ran at multiple major events including ST Games @ EVO, The Fall Classic, etc.).

Target price is $35 for the Screw Terminal version and $40 for the DB15 version.

Screw Terminal Version Features:

- Terminal Blocks for solder free wiring (signal layout intentionally similar to MC Cthulhu so you can mate them for fun things like TE stick on SNES)
- USB A Socket
- Alternate header for USB signals - for people who don't to use the on-board USB socket
- Indicator LED - bi-color, red/green
- Alternate header for LED signals - for people who don't to use the on-board LED
- Pull-Up Selection Jumper - allows for pulling button/joystick signals up to +5V or +3.3V, depending on the application
- Player Select Jumpers - tell the joystick to light up the appropriate controller LED (can be set for P1-P4)
- Custom button mapping - for 6-8 action buttons
- Firmware can be updated via USB for future features/improvements

History:

Here's what @Rufus did with a couple boards which were used at SoCal Regionals, early last year:


(sweet 3D printed case by @Rufus not included)


(running on a supergun at SoCal Regionals 2013)

Ordering:

Screw Terminal Version:

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/undamned-usb-decoder/1491-undamned-usb-decoder.html

DB15 Version:

[Just waiting for parts to come in so I can build some more.]

Future:

I will continue to improve the firmware features as I have time.

Let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!
-ud

My buddy just got a Razer Atrox Xbox 360 version. He's having an issue with USF4 on PC with the up directional not working.

In controller properties (control panel) and in other tests all directions work.

The switch is set to DP.

Tried remapping the directions and it wont.

I can't figure it out for the life of me.

Tried using search and google and im coming up empty.

Anyone know of a fix or what the issue is?

I was wondering which is more rare, the USA boards or the World edition? thanks in advance

Been thinking about doing this for some time now.

Since people were using the old TE/SE art thread for stuff other than MadCatz sticks and the threads for the other sticks were just about ignored. Here's a new thread to cover art for all sticks (MadCatz, Hori, Namco, Sega, custom, etc.)

If possible, please upload your pics to the SRK Sticks Imageboard (http://srksticks.booru.org/) Instructions will be listed below.

Rules
-NO IMAGE QUOTING. Copy the image's URL and paste it. The forum should automatically recognize it as a link when you click on "Post." Failure to do so will result in an infraction.

-Please do not post full 300dpi images on the forums. This slows down the thread for everyone. Anyone who does so will receive an infraction. Resize your images to around 1024 pixels in width.

Contributors
Shin-RoTeNdO (for the original TE/SE thread)
Likkuid - Flickr: blastd's Photostream
MarkMan
Canto
zero2000
d3v
Lizanias
KaboXx - http://shoryuken.com/f13/marvel-vs-capcom-3-templates-56k-warning-261763/
Fiveaways - HORI FS3 template
syn13
chuu
Montoia

Art Templates!
MadCatz TE 2:
-Official MadCatz TE 2 Blank Template
-D3vlicious TE2 Template
MadCatz SE/Wii/BrawlStick:
-Original MadCatz SE Template
-D3vlicious SE Template (w/ more accurate buttons)
MadCatz TE Rd.1:
-Original MadCatz TE Template
-Art's Hobbies TE Template (w/ more accurate buttons)
MadCatz TE Extended:
-Art's Hobbies Extended TE Template
MadCatz TE 'S'/TE full panel:
-Art's Hobbies Full Panel Template
MadCatz TE Bottom Panel:
-Art's Hobbies TE Bottom Panel Template
MadCatz TE Combat Panel Rd.1:
-Art's Hobbies TE UMK Round One Template
MadCatz TE Combat Panel Extended:
-Art's Hobbie TE UMK Extended Template
MadCatz TE Combat Panel Full:
-Art's Hobbies TE UMK Full Panel Template
Hori FS3:
-Fiveaways' FS3 Template
Hori RAP1/T5
-Art's Hobbies HRAP1/T5 template
Hori RAP2/3/EX
-Art's Hobbie HRAP2/3/EX Template
Hori RAP.V series:
-D3vlicious HRAP.V series Template
-syn13's HRAP.V series Template
-Art's Hobbies HRAP.V series Template
Hori RAP.V series KAI:
-Art's Hobbie HRAP.V series KAI Template
Hori RAP Premium VLX:
-RAP-VLX Template
Namco:
-Art's Hobbies Namco Template
Agetec:
-Art's Hobbies Agetec Template
Agetec VMU:
-Art's Hobbies Agetec VMU Template
SFAE:
-Art's Hobbies SFAE Template
Sega VSHG
-Art's Hobbies VSHG Template
Qanba Q4/Eightarc Fusion
-D3Vlicious Qanba Q4 Template
-Art's Hobbies Qanba Q4 Template
Mayflash
-Mayflash Template
-DacoTaco's Mayflash Template
Project GiantSword
-PGS Template
NHTran
-Art's Hobbies NHTran Template
MAS Systems
-D3vlicious MAS Template
MadCatz FightStick Pro
-Art's Hobbies SFxT Pro Top Panel Template
-Art's Hobbies SFxT Pro Bottom Regular Panel Template
-Art's Hobbies SFxT Pro Bottom Full Panel Template
MadCatz Fightstick VS
-Art's Hobbies SFxT V.S. Top Panel Template
-Art's Hobbies SFxT V.S. Bottom Regular Panel Template
-Art's Hobbies SFxT V.S. Bottom Full Panel Template
-Art's Hobbies SFxT V.S. Side and Back Panel Template
MadCatz Soul Calibur V T.E.
-Art's Hobbies TE Soul Calibur V Top Panel Template
-Art's Hobbie TE Soul Calibur V Top Full Panel Template
Hori Soul Calibur V/Gundam Extreme Vs.
-Art's Hobbies Hori Soul Calibur V Top Panel Template
Injustice Battle Edition
-D3vlicious Injustice Battle Edition Template
Razer Atrox
-Razer Atrox Official Art Template
-Art's Hobbies Razer Atrox Top Panel Template
Qanba Q2
-ArcadeShock Qanba Q2 Pro Template
-D3Vlicious Qanba Q2 Pro Template
Nitewalker's Simplecase Widebody -Simplecase Widebody Template

likkuid's Preview Templates
Download SFIV_TE_FLOPROJEK_v2.rar from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way <ALTERNATIVE LINK>

Lizanias' Templates
Download TE_S Mockup Template 1.4.rar from Sendspace.com - send big files the easy way

Other Templates
RapidShare: 1-CLICK Web hosting - Easy Filehosting

Making Your Stick Pretty: A Custom Stick Art Guide/Tutorial by: d3v
Making Your Stick Pretty: A Custom Stick Art Guide/Tutorial

Art swap tutorials
How To: Add Custom Art to Your TE FightStick
How To: Add Custom Art to Your SE FightStick

Image Mishmash: Stick Art Request Thread
The Stick Art Request Thread

Old Stick Art Threads
The Official Street Fighter IV TE/SE Template Thread
Top Panel Template HRAP2SA/HRAP3
PS3/Wii Hori Fightstick Art Template Thread
The TE/SE Fighstick Template Thread Categorised by Character/Theme *very image heavy*

So I'm fairly certain that I have everything wired correctly aside from not having the Xbone PCB attached, since that hasn't arrived yet. I can't imagine that being a problem however and causing the drivers to turn up that way, when if I connect just the PS360+ to my PC it works fine. Any ideas what could be wrong?

As many of us our receiving our Kai's this week I figured it would be helpful for prospective buyers to have a thread that provided some initial impressions of the stick. However I do believe that while frank castle's thread is a must read but while that thread is (and should be) factual and informative, it might be nice to have a space to dedicate to owners thoughts. All thoughts are opinions and not definitive by any means.

Upon unboxing the first thing I noticed was the sticks weight. It is solid. Not light by any means but not heavy enough to be cumbersome. I found it to be a nice balance between the two and feels good on the lap as well as on a table. The grip material on the bottom is well placed and keeps the stick firmly planted on a table or in my lap .

Thehayabusa stick itself has a nice smooth action and has a satisfying click to it. Resistance feels great, not heavy but not ligh . Again, well balanced.

Kuro buttons felt great to me. I know some have mentioned a squeak I the buttons but I found this to be untrue on my particular unit. Buttons felt responsive and operated smoothly. They were quieter than expected especially when compared with the sanwas. I did not find them to be mushy at all and execution was crisp.

Instructions were near useless for figuring out the different functions of the togge switches. (Perhaps an ambitious soul would care to write a thread explaining these essential functions in plain English) However all toggle switches worked as intended, it just takes a while to figure out if you are not familiar withtheir operation.

Touchpad worked just as well as the ds4 controller when tested (used it to send a message and it felt very responsive)

Cord compartment door felt solid and closes with a satisfying click. The door is not flimsy and stays shut both in storage and during play.

Not directly related to the stick but amazon DID ship the stick in another box, so if you care to keep the hori box clean and undamaged this may be the way to order yours.

All in all I,m very satisfied with the purchase

By the way, even though this is my first post I've been a longtime lurker and have noaffiliation with hori lol. To be honest I originally ordered the te2 but backed out once I saw the late April shipping and lack of touchpad support.

Anyway hope this helps somebody out there!

New options for adding XBox One to an arcade stick have emerged this month. There are 3 new xb1 third party controllers that were released this month. Two are made by PowerA: Xbox1 Spectra ($50) and Xbo1 mini ($40). One is made by PDP: Xbox1 Rockcandy ($40)
[update 2/3/2015] Added Horipad for xb1 to the list.

I will separate the info of each controller into the next three posts. I'll leave the first post as a summery and info for the trigger inversion.




Rockcandy Pros
-Cheapest pad other than the mini.
- Comes with long white micro usb cable that has a breakaway end.
- Comes with 3 day Xbox Live Gold
- Comes with $10 PDP reward card...what that means IDK yet.
- Has an onboard micro usb jack.
Rockcandy Cons
- Triggers need inverting
- Size is in between the other two
- Much like the MS pad it has two pcbs that connect together. Better to remove the top pcb as you'll want to solder to the TP on the bottom.

Mini Pros
- Cheapest pad other than the rockcandy.
- Contact spots are easily read on front. Has alt TP on back, but labels aren't obvious
- Smallest pcb
- Can get cool colored usb cables
Mini Cons
- Triggers need inverting

Spectra Pros
- Can be hacked to also add led effects to clear buttons. Not as advanced as using a separate led controller board, but its better then nothing.
- Contact spots are labeled on front and for alt TP on the back
- Dpad pcb can be easily removed.
Spectra Cons
- Retail price is more expensive than the other two pads.
- Both sets of triggers and shoulder buttons need to be inverted. Not really that big an issue if using hex inverters though.
- Largest size pcb out of the three.

Horipad Pros
- No trigger inverting.
- Easy solder points.
- Pricing matches others.
- Has IR leds.
Horipad Cons
- Shape is kind of weird?
- Most likely have to order online.

The winner is the Horipad if you can get a hold of one as not having to do a trigger inverting is going to be more useful for most people. Otherwise its a toss up between the mini and rockcandy. Pretty much the rockcandy has a better deal if you buy it new as you get the extra lil freebies plus the onboard micro usb jack is nice too. The mini might be easier for people to solder to though.



Trigger inversion:
Since the triggers on all three pads are active high we will need to add a hex inverter to make them active low. We can reuse the same method that was used on the madcatz 360 pads that also had active high triggers. Note that in Toodle's schematic he used the A/Y pair 1 and 2. I will be using pair 1 and 6 to make wire routing easier.


I'm using the 74HCT04N chip. Pins are labeled.

I'll be using the dead-bug setup. Since its on its back all the pins will be flipped. It is important to remember this.

Here is an example of the 10k ohm resistors soldered to the pins.

Her is an example of 10k ohm SMD resistors soldered instead.

Example of how it would be wired up to a Rockcandy pad. 1A would be wired to the sticks RT button and 6A would be wired to the sticks LT button.

I know there's stores you can get them at mainland, but I've driven around on Oki and haven't seen anything that looks like it'd have pushbuttons / joysticks. Anyone who's been here knows that Oki is different than mainland Japan. I've searched everywhere on SRK for some kind of list of brick and mortar stores that carry arcade parts in Japan / Oki and haven't found anything. I'd like to buy them locally because it just seems silly to buy them online to have them shipped to the US and back.

Making the thread so we can combine our efforts and do this as soon as we can. I am going to try to get my hands on a controller asap.

P.S. This may be a little early but..... the people need this. Also missed Team tech talk, sup. If you are a big dog around here, please reply below, I only know OG's

JUST WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR THEIR AWESOME WORK. HERE IS AN AWESOME PCB PINOUT GUIDE BY CHAOTIC MONK(Great Job!)

ChaoticMonk wrote: »

Heres an attempt to consolidate the thread into a guide.

If your new to padhacking, highly recommend reading this as it goes over a lot of it http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html

Before you begin, test the controller out and make sure all the inputs work. Last thing you'd want to do is void it and later discover its a dud.

Start off by removing the boards from inside the pad as done in this vid (you can stop watching at 6:26).


You'll be left with 2 PCBs shown below with the spots you'll be connecting too (optionally you could connect to the pins shown but can be difficult due to close proximity)


On Top Board Topside you'll notice a 'sticker' on the dpad.


You'll want to use something thin and sharp to lift an edge then you should be able to just peel it off.


Gently and carefully scrape off the black stuff at the signal points till you see shiny metal (careful not to scrap too much or you could take off the contact point).


keep going on all the signal points till you have shiny metal visible and ready for tinning.


Tin (apply small amount of solder) the signal points and wires. Can be made easier with the use of flux


Solder the wires to the signal points (put tinned wire against tinned signal point, apply heat and they should join together)


You'll want to apply a dab of hot glue to the wire next to each solder to stop it from moving around and potentially breaking off.

When connecting the triggers (RT & LT), you'll need to use a 100ohm resistor
(img credit MacabreMonster)

The two analog cubes can be left on the board or taken off and replaced with resistors.

If leaving on the board simply cut down the grey analog pole that sticks out of the cube and while making sure its centered, apply hot glue to keep it in place.
(img credit socks)

If removing, you'll need to replace with 4 resistors (10k ohm recommended).
There'll be 2 sets of 3 points. You'll need to connect a resistor from each of the outer points to the center point.


Once you have everything wired up your ready to add to your stick. The rest depends on what your setup is.

If your just doing an Xbone stick then its just a matter of connecting the wires to the button/stick and feeding a micro usb cable through.
(img credit MacabreMonster)

If adding to an existing setup with other boards you'll either want to use a seperate usb cable for xbone and leave the existing usb for your current setup
or you'll need to add a switch to determine where the usb should go (could be an actual switch or an Imp board).
Just make sure every board has power (VCC) and ground connected to it or you'll run into issues with buttons pressing by themselves.


Good luck!

Hey I just recieved my multi-console hitbox in the mail today and I can not get it too work. First the problem was it was not recognized by my PC (windows 8), plugging into a specific usb in the back holding jab It gets recognized as a controller but then when i go into sf it only move in the menu for a couple of seconds then drops. I looked at the other threads about this and there is no advice I could find that worked.