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Art's Hobbies Big Update! 1/32" Acrylic, V.S., Pro, Qanba, HRAP V3/VX, Custom Art Dustwashers.

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Website: Welcome to Art's Hobbies

Big Update 3/4/2012

Hey guys! It's been a while since I've had the chance to be more active around here, and provide the occasional updates and question sessions. Long story short, I picked up consulting on a software project for the County. So between working on that and taking care of orders, I've been pretty beat up, trying to balance everything. Even with some added help in the business, I'm still the only one to answer emails and work on the more customized orders, so I have been a bit overwhelmed, particularly over the winter season and tournament seasons.

Now that my county project is at a phase where I can take a break, and after I had a little opportunity to relax, I'm refreshed and back with updates! And what timing too... with the V.S., Pro, and other new things coming out! Here's some things on the plate.

1/32" Acrylic!
This is one of the biggest things for me. For a while, I've had people ask me about 1/32" options, and I always had to turn them down because the only material that is normally available in that thickness, is Polycarbonate (Lexan). I've mentioned before that laser cutting Lexan can emit potentially toxic fumes and tends to discolor and burn the edges. So for a while I've been searching for an acrylic option in 1/32" thickness. Some places could make normal acrylic in that thickness, but it becomes way too brittle. Regardless, I continued to look for options.

Now, finally I have found a source that carries 1/32" Impact Modified Acrylic. This material is 10x stronger than normal acrylic, and is perfect for a thin alternative to Polycarbonate. It's incredibly flexible and more than durable enough for fight stick purposes, even for those times of pushing down hard to snap in buttons. Also, Acrylic has the advantage over Polycarbonate in that it is crystal clear (more clarity), less prone to scratches and will not yellow over time when exposed to UV (sunlight). Here are some images for you to compare.

acry_1.jpg

Incredibly flexible and durable. (It can bend more than this)
acry_3.jpg

Superior clarity. And this is after it was bent.
acry_2.jpg

So I'm very excited to offer this new line of acrylics. This idea of 1/32" Impact Modified Acrylic is still so new, that most plastic businesses either haven't even heard of it, or still don't carry it in that thickness. Trust me, I've called like over 30 companies in California alone, and only one out of those 30 knew what I was talking about.

I'm aiming to make these available on my site in a few weeks. I just ordered a huge batch of them so I still need to wait for them to arrive, while also updating a lot of other products and the need to code in a lot of new options on my site.

Madcatz Street Fighter x Tekken V.S. Fightstick

As it's already mentioned in the V.S. thread, covers for the Top, Bottom, Sides and Corners have been worked on. The templates are currently available. That case is incredibly modifiable and easy to personalize. There's more that can be done and I'll continue looking at ways to offer more options to spice things up. More info and pictures in that thread:

V.S. Thread - Post 1
V.S. Thread - Post 2

Madcatz Street Fighter x Tekken Pro Fightstick

I've also got the Pro Top and Bottom covers. More info and pictures in the Pro thread here:

SFxT Pro Post

Qanba Plexi and Artwork

I've had a lot of requests for this but while working on my other projects, I really couldn't give an answer to working on a new stick. Now, I finally had a chance to complete the Qanba plexi. It also has Laser 3D engraved countersunk holes so you can use the existing screws. This method of countersinking can only be done on 1/8" or thicker material, otherwise it can cause thinner plexi to become too brittle and crack. So thank goodness Qanba plexi's are 1/8" thick.

I understand Qanba has their own plexis, but I was told it can some times be too large for some of the fightsticks and some sanded was necessary. Well, I modeled my template from the original Qanba plexi, and the person whom I've worked with (Motoyuki) has confirmed that everything fits perfectly without sanding (as he had to do with his replacement Qanba plexi from another source). Additionally, this will allow me to offer Artwork print and Cut services and other plexi color options for the many different colors Qanba has.

qanba.jpg


HRAP V3/VX and Artwork.

Finally, I get a chance to work on the V3/VX. It's been on my plate for a while, and I finally got to it. One of the things that stalled this project were the issues with the countersunk screw holes that could put a lot of stress on regular acrylic. But with the 1/32" Impact Modified acrylic, it is no longer an issue!

Notice, like the MadCatz Pro, I did not cut the middle screw hole as the screw there would very likely cause discomfort with game play, since it's so close to the lower button.

The necessary screws to install the plexi/artwork, as well as giving you top access for modifications, will also be included. Will be coming in another week or two along with all the other new additions =).

Here is the VX/V3 Template.

( Taokaka design by Stoogie )

vx.jpg


TE Soul Calibur V Covers. (In Madcatz TE Section, scroll down a little to see them)

te_scv_1.jpg

te_scv_2.jpg

HORI Soul Calibur V



hscv_2.jpg


Custom Artwork Dustwashers Return!

cdw_1.jpg

When I first introduced these, they were laminated by a clear acrylic laminate spray. Unfortunately, that spray produced some technical difficulties in its application and made it difficult to produce a consistent, good quality product. So for a while, I was trying to look for an alternative. It took some time because most laminates that were presented to me, usually had some type of vinyl, polycarbonate, or pvc element to it, all of which are bad for laser cutting.

Well, finally I found a great quality overlaminate that is safe for laser cutting. So now, I can bring back the custom artwork dustwashers that many have emailed me about, and with more consistent quality.

Here are some closeups of some SFxT Dustwasher samples.

cdw_6.jpg

cdw_5.jpg

cdw_2.jpgcdw_4.jpg

Custom Artwork dustwashers will be available again this upcoming week.

Alright, that was a ton of stuff. Time to get some rest. Hopefully I get to talk to some of you guys again, and get a chance to check out everyone's stick posts. Been seeing great things! Thanks again for everyone's support! Have a good one!

-Arthur

Also, Shoutout to JDM. Thanks for all your help to answer questions while I wasn't around on my threads. You rock!

Please check my website for more details : Welcome to Art's Hobbies

IC: Tek-Case Mini

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Good morning all! I have been speaking w/ Art of Tek-innovations.com about building mini portable tek-cases, and he is up to it if enough interest is gathered. Dimensions would be 9.5*7.33*2 which is the same as an Ipad2 vs the current 13.5*8.5*2.25.

case3.jpg

Introducing Project Kajitsu: USB-JAMMA Controller based on Raspberry Pi... Oh, and its free!

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What is Project Kajitsu?

Project Kajitsu (Kajitsu is Japanese for Berry) is the brain child of Mike Wolak and Jasen Hicks based on the $35 Raspberry Pi B+ Model. The goal was to use the Raspberry Pi with a custom Pi Hat / Linux kernel and turn 2 ordinary PS3 or XBOX360 controllers into 2 Discrete JAMMA compatible controllers. We succeeded.

Who did all of this and why?

All of the software, hardware, and testing associated with Project Kajitsu was done in house between Jasen and Mike. We undertook this project to bridge the gap between modern consoles and arcade games of the past. One of the fun benefits is that you can also control things like robots or other gadgets looking for 5V or 3.3V logic inputs!

Why the Raspberry Pi?

The Raspberry Pi B+ released in July 2014 opened the aperture on how much you can do with the Pi because of the expanded GPIO. It now has 40 pins instead of 26 with only a few being set aside for specific uses (power, ground, i2c, serial bus). This means we can use two controllers on the Pi and create enough discrete outputs for both Player 1 and 2 on a SuperGun. Think… only one device to handle two players!

What controllers are supported, and is there lag?

In the first release, RC12, Wired XBOX 360 and Wired PS3 Controllers are working with no no perceivable lag. With more testing and getting additional hardware other PCBs will be added in future releases. Our goal isn't to use all the controllers on the market but the main ones. Want to tinker? We’ll be releasing the source files at a later date so the community can tinker and experiment.

What about Bluetooth?

Bluetooth is an awesome technology that adds a little bit of freedom to your gameplay. Unfortunately, initial testing has shown the pairing sequence isn’t as simple as the plug and play usb version and requires more testing and tinkering on our part before we add that functionality. When we do add it, PS3 and Wii controllers should work with Project Kajitsu.

Tell me more about this Linux you are running…

Our custom light weight Linux operating system image boots our USB-DISCRETE App in less than 3 seconds! Mike Wolak has fine tuned the Pi image to behave more like a high speed micro-controller vs. an underpowered desktop computer allowing nearly instantaneous startup times.

What/When can I download?

Today, you can download the BETA RC12 version of our Custom Linux Kernel and the EAGLE Board files associated with our two Project Kajitsu Pi Hats. Beta V0.1 is fully tested, V0.4 is being made for testing. Links are embedded in our original post here: freecade.org/project-kajitsu/

These files are provided as BETA files only. We are not responsible for any damage to your Pi, Pi-Hats, or SD Cards. We have used them with a lot of success so far. If you are interested in the schematic files for the Project Kajitsu Hats, we will make them available at a later date.

Part Lists:

3x 74HC245DW Buffers
2x 3.9K 0805 Resistors
1x 0805 LED
2x 1K 0805 Resistors
3x .1uF 0805 Capacitors
1x 100nF 0805 Capacitor
1x i2C EEPROM
1x 0805 Diode
4x 3pin .100 headers
2x 12 position .100 screw terminals
1x 2 position .100 screw terminals
4x Jumpers

1x Raspberry Pi B+
1x Micro USB Cable and Wall Wort

Can I just buy this preassembled?

We are doing a small batch of boards right now and should be ready in October. Pricing is to be determined.

project_kajitsu_1.jpg
project_kajitsu_2.jpg
project_kajitsu_3.jpg



**EDITED FOR PRECISION OF LANGUAGE WRT LAG**

www.JasensCustoms.com - More than just awesome Fight Stick Cases!

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Good morning everyone! Wanted to throw launch the shop into the Tech Talk Community because why not... every other vendor has. I'll migrate over my SALES threads to here and ask the mods to close them out once I get everything moved over.

** About me and the Shop **

Some of you may know me, some of you may not... I am Jasen and I am a DIY-Aholic. I build Fight Sticks, SuperGuns, Print and Cut Custom Graphics, and Sell buttons, sticks, and tech to fuel my addiction. What started out as a minor hobby as a kid (pulling things apart to see how they worked and getting rocked at Street Fighter II and Samurai Showdown) turned into an obsession. Many things I make such as the Panzer Fight Sticks, SuperGun Cases, and graphics started out as something I needed for a project I was working on. Over the past two years it evolved into a "business", a term I use loosely because I'm not trying to make money... just trying to save it for my random projects and passing it along the best I can to the community. By night I may be an arcade/gaming enthusiast but by day I am a LCDR in the US Navy and drive Submarines for a living. Because of my day job I have been able to learn a lot of crazy stuff that has influenced my designs and projects. Thanks Navy for training me and testing me as a Nuclear Engineer!

I run this by myself so I know the quality of parts, prints, and builds... in my house. America was built from the home, I'm going to try and keep it that way. Plus it saves me money :-D

** Announcement Section / New Projects **

Panzer Fight Stick Korean Edition

Ok, enough of the touchy-feely stuff. Let's get onto some Tech Talk. I had a customer that really wanted a stick based around the Myoungshin Fanta Stick. It was interesting. His design was ideas were good and I really liked the case when it was done. Fast forward to April 2014 and my vacation to Seoul Korea... I went overboard and bought a crap-whack of Fantas. Also learned that "Crown" isn't the company name... it's actually Crowin. I digress...

I went to work designing a Panzer Fight Stick to house the new stick because it's completely different than everything else on the market. I wanted something new and unique as well as tough and worthy of the Panzer Fight Stick name. This is what I came up with:

- Panzer Fight Stick Korean Edition
- Crowin/Myoungshin Fanta Mounts
- 30mm Buttons Vewlix Layout
- 24mm Buttons Front (Home Start Select)
- Neutrik Interface for USB or RJ45
- Black Sandtex Top and Graphite Sandtex Bottom
- Low Profile Feet
- Digitally Printed Graphics
- PS360+

10275453_1610835362475813_4944993314178431891_o.jpg

I am going to do a limited run of these, only 10, and they will be completely built out ready for kicking ass when you receive it. So far, the facebook response has been very good. I don't expect these to last. Price point is being determined due to the limited number I am doing as well as the fact I plan on using GamerFinger buttons in the final product.

Silent JLFs - $69.95 (Harness and Balltops Included
https://jasenscustoms.com/Sanwa-Silent-JLF-Lever-JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK.html

I was skeptical at the value and the bennies associated with the Silent JLF... until I got one. These are very quiet. I posted up in the SANWA JLF Thread my db findings and it's damn quiet. I think the max room dB was 106 with the standard JLF being clicked around and then 76 with the Silent JLF being clicked around. It wasn't the most scientific test, but it was the best was I could numerically represent the stick. All Sanwa really did was solder the quiet Omron D2RV-G switches to a standard JLF PCB and make the gate a single piece vs. one with a removable gate. It looks like the actuator may be a little larger than stock, but I haven't broken out the calipers to check it yet. Stock JLF gates/restrictors work with the silent stick as well as all of your original balltops and harnesses.


Buttons, Buttons, and more Buttons
https://jasenscustoms.com/Pushbuttons/

I have a stock of them now. I resisted for as long as I possibly could. It just made sense to start carrying a few so those buying Panzer Fight Sticks could include them with their orders. Nothing special or new about these buttons. They are just good OBSF-30s and PS-14-Gs. Ill be adding more as I get them photographed and uploaded. If I don't have it, I can get it or simply haven't added it yet.

Standard JLF - $19.95
https://jasenscustoms.com/Sanwa-JLF-Lever-JLF-TP-8YT.html

Playing nice with others has its benefits. Another shop and I teamed up to get a killer deal on Sanwa JLFs and have been able to bring the price down to $19.95. Same great stick, new lower price. Oh, did I mention it ships for $3.99?

Crossbone Kits - Launch 21 June!
@Phreakazoid‌ did a killer job coming up and implementing a slick pad-hack to use the XBONE with your current or future stick builds. We have been chatting since it's announcement on brining it to JasensCustoms.com and what the best way to implement it was. I have teamed up with @armi0024‌ from ParadiseArcadeShop.com to pool our braincells and release this on day one with a lot of great options!

Xbox Atrox stick converted via PS3 PCB board causing some message about USB power

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Sup,

Was at a recent capcom pro tour tourney where my stick suddenly stopped working, When I would unplug it and plug it back in sometimes it would start working again.

This was rather scary, so I read online about using a power supply to fix the issue. I did this the day of the tournament, and so far nothing has happened. However, I don't own a ps3 so I cant test this out in the long run.

Does anyone have any experience with this happening? Hopefully after the power supply is introduced into the equation, there are no longer any problems.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Mod TE stick into Hitbox?

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Hi,

I am planning to mod my XBOX 360 TE stick into a 'hitbox' style layout, that is, buttons for directions instead of a stick. I can get the panel and the buttons from shops, but am lost as to how I can wire my current TE to accept directional inputs through buttons. I don't want to build a new stick with a new PCB, just want to use the TE's PCB and just change the wiring. Can anyone tell me how this can be done? Is there a way to do it without soldering?

Thanks a lot

*The "padhacking" thread*

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I thought a pad hacking/pad info thread should be started so that everybody can see where to solder on different pcb´s.
If you want a picture added please write in the thread.



***Microsoft***

Xbox:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/xbox_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/xbox_diagram2.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/xbox_diagram3.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/xbox_diagram4.jpg


Xbox 360:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram2.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram3.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram4.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram5.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram6.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram7.jpg

http://akihabarashop.jp/images/ChImpHookUp360Full.jpg
Chimp with Madcatz Xbox 360 PCB.

http://akihabarashop.jp/images/IMPconnection.jpg
MCC with Madcatz Xbox 360 PCB and Imp PCB.



***NEC***

Turbo Grafx 16:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/tg_diagram1.jpg



***Nintendo***

Nintendo Entertainment System (NES):

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/nes_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/nes_diagram2.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/nes_diagram3.jpg


Super Nintendo Entertainment System (SNES):

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/snes_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/snes_diagram.jpg


Nintendo 64:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/n64_diagram1.jpg


Nintendo GameCube:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/gc_diagram1.jpg



***SEGA***

Sega Genesis:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/gen_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/gen_diagram2.jpg


Sega Saturn:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/sat_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/sat_diagram2.jpg


Sega Dreamcast:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/dc_diagram1.jpg



***SONY***

Sony Playstation 1:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram2.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram3.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram4.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram5.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram6.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram7.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram8.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps1_diagram9.jpg


Sony Playstation 2:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram1.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram2.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram3.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram4.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram5.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram6.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps2_diagram7.jpg


Sony Playstation 3:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps3_diagram2.jpg
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/ps3_diagram3.jpg

The ultimate Ghetto Bluetooth Fightstick!

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Hello everyone and welcome to THE ULTIMATE GHETTO BLUETOOTH FIGHTSTICK BUILD!!

After looking for Ideas online I came across This. Some time ago i commissioned a custom bartop build based on his PortaPi project and stumbled upon the Bluefuit HID controller. This, along with spare parts I had from some other sticks, led me to build this (add echo) ULTIMATE GHETTO BLUETOOTH FIGHTSTICK BUILD!!

The parts for this build are:

1x Mayflash case
8x Sanwa OBSF 30mm
1x Sanwa JLF
1x Adafruit Bluefruit
Cabling and terminals

Get you Mayflash stick and install the buttons. I have 8 buttons becuase of Start and Select so its a legitimate 6 button for all you believers out there :smile:
pvEXB3d.jpg

Git that JLF in there brah! I had to cut away the 4 screw holes and insert edging for the default stick and then drill two more holes for the extra mount points (no mounting plate here!)
hKzggeD.jpg

Add your wiring
xWnGo7Y.jpg

Here is the final wiring, lots of terminals for solderless building, my breadboard is powered by @Phreakazoid 's USB repair tool (nifty little thing) I will add a portable usb battery charger when it arrives in the mail.
oujSmwg.jpg

Here is the BlueFruit, it comes disassembled so you can either solder the included pins or just wire directly like the Pro's here.
GRQPW1r.jpg

IT LIIVEESSS!

https://youtu.be/CwJu-hK8F5w

I look forward to your comments for this ULTIMATE GHETTO BLUETOOTH FIGHTSTICK BUILD!!

Qanba Q1 button screwing me up.

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As title says, one of my Qanba Q1's button has started to get me into the trouble in matches. Basically what it does, is that Medium Punch button won't sometimes register at all. When round starts, it can work like wonders, but suddenly, any time of the round, it just stops registering my command, no matter how hard or kindly I press the button.

I of course started to think that maybe button is starting to break, but I decided to pass by and ask for a help. So;

Is there other possibilities than that button is starting to break, like dirt or something that I could take care for..

..Or should I just replace my current Qanba buttons (maybe Joystick in some day too?) with Sanwas (I've thought of doing so, whether button was broken or not) and keep old Qanbas as "emergency replacement" buttons? I've heard and watched some Youtube videos and from what I've seen, Qanba feels like it's very easy to mod..

And one extra question: Is there any way to get rid of joystick "squeaking", while you play? It sometimes drives me crazy.

Zero delay ps2 encoder. joystick problem

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Hi. I'm a newbie to this group. I recently received the zero delay ps2 encoder from Ebay last week. The face buttons all work great, but my joystick only recognises the right and diagonal d,r directions. Could somebody help me please??

The Crossbone, Xbox One padhack with minimal effort.

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Crossbone-Logo-Color-300x187.png

The Crossbone is designed to allow the user to padhack an Xbox One first party controller with ease, eliminating >90% of the soldering and work and replacing it with a near plug and play experience.

It's very simple, unhook the original top board of the connected PCBs, and replace it with the Crossbone. All of your normal input points are then broken out, including a micro USB connector for easy incorporation to your set up.
1-300x225.jpg
Top Side
2-300x225.jpg
Bottom Side

The connector is placed at a right angle to the PCB, this allows for minimal space usage, even with bulky connectors. There is also 0.1" pitch solder points if you want to directly tie into the lines if it's easier or better suited for your application.

The Crossbone also comes equipped with an on-board signal switcher so that 2 cables, or an external switching mechanism, are not needed. It defaults to the Xbox One, so if you don't need it you don't have to worry about it.

However to utilize it you simply attach the "SYS. 2" solder points to your second system of choice, and the "Switch" signal to whichever button you want to control this function. The "Invert" solder jumper swaps the selection, so that you could have whichever system you want as the primary in the chain of your particular setup. You simply solder the two pads together to activate the Inversion, see the below breakdown:

Invert = untouched
Switch signal grounded = SYS. 2
Switch signal left alone = Xbox 1

Invert = soldered
Switch signal grounded = Xbox 1
Switch signal left alone = SYS. 2




You can access the USB signals for all areas, including the ones after the signal switch if you need more advanced applications or need to debug an issue.

The Crossbone also comes equipped with a front end protection diode, meaning you can't reverse the voltage on the main input, which should keep any accidental power swaps from destroying the board.
3-300x225.jpg
4-300x225.jpg


The board also contains spots for trigger fix resistors, in case you accidentally wreck the Hall Effect sensors while soldering the triggers, which are 2 of the 3 required solder points.
crossbone-008-300x225.jpg




Installation

Step 1.

Remove the power board from the Xbox One controller PCBs, and connect the Crossbone in it's place. Note that it makes things easy if you look in between the two boards when doing this as the Crossbone's headers do NOT have plastic shrouding to help with alignment. This is because the headers on the Xbox One's PCB are proprietary and no others have this matching material. Just take your time and when you have it aligned, press together.
crossbone-011-300x225.jpg
crossbone-013-300x225.jpg
5-300x225.jpg

Step 2.

Solder small wires to the required points, which are B, LT, and RT.

More details on soldering to these points can be found here:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/184953/xbox-one-padhack-thread-calling-the-goons-toodles-gummowned-phreak-and-you-do-it-for-the-kids/p1

RT and LT can be difficult for new users, and technically you can solder directly to the Hall Effect sensor's pin, but it ensures part longevity if you solder after the resistor and capacitor pair noted in the diagrams and thread. The Crossbone does NOT have a 100 Ohm inline resistor on-board.
crossbone-015-300x225.jpg
crossbone-016-300x225.jpg
crossbone-017-300x225.jpg

Step 3.

Solder the other ends to the corresponding points on the Crossbone, LT/4k IN, RT3K IN, and B/2K IN
6-300x225.jpg


Step 4 (set up dependent).

If your set up requires a secondary system attachment for a multi-console mod, select which input you want as your "Switch" and if you want to use "Invert" to adjust the primary system. The table is reiterated below:

Invert = untouched
Switch signal grounded = SYS. 2
Switch signal left alone = Xbox 1

Invert = soldered
Switch signal grounded = Xbox 1
Switch signal left alone = SYS. 2

Check out this awesome install video and primer by @Lemony Vengeance

image





That's it! now you can connect the broken out points however you choose. The 3.5mm positions are easy to solder to, but will probably be offered as screw terminals as an add-on order, since not everyone wants them and they add extra height. Likewise the 20P header spot is a direct plug and play for the PS360+ PCB, but does requires that a 20P header be soldered to the PS360+ since it's not there by default. I'm looking into ways to help avoid doing that, but soldering a 20P header is very quick work even for someone with so-so abilities.
7-300x225.jpg
This is the older version as you can see, but works for now as a reference to the attachments.


I screwed up the triggers by pulling off the sensors!
crossbone-019-300x225.jpg
Don't worry, if you can still attach to the trace somewhere, the Crossbone has you covered.

Step 1. Grab a high Ohm resistor, such as a 4.7k or 10k ohm.
crossbone-020-300x225.jpg

Step 2. Solder it into place where the "Trigger Fix" is designated. The left and right side of the board denote LT and RT, respectively.
crossbone-022-300x225.jpg



Extra fun stuff

The Crossbone also comes equipped with circuitry to handle the LEDs, both the Home LED and IR LEDs. They are denoted in the 3.5mm screw terminal area by HO LED and IR LED, respectively. The resistors are already on-board, so the only thing you need to do is connect the anode to VCC and the cathode to the LED control point. This allows you to place the LEDs that might be beneficial to you wherever you choose, so place the Home LED externally on your stick, or route the IR LEDs to the front of it if you want to take advantage of the Xbox One's player recognition.

Fun fact, you can also connect whatever LED you want to the IR control and it will blink as it's supposed to, which is fun but won't actually allow the system to see/read the controller in that fashion.
8-300x225.jpg
9-300x225.jpg




FAQ

-How much?
$30

-I still need to solder?
To take full advantage, yes. If you want to run a setup with minimal connections and deal with button mapping you can totally do that though.

-Autodetection?
No, this thing has no brains other than to swap based on an input, this keeps costs low as the microcontroller is very inexpensive and quick to program.

-Where can I pick one up?
You can grab the crossbone, accessories, or even a fully blown preassembled kit from Focus Attack, Jasen's Customs, and Paradise Arcade Shop

Focus Attack: http://www.focusattack.com/tags/crossbone

Jasen's Customs: https://www.jasenscustoms.com/MODS/

Paradise Arcade Shop: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1260-phreakmods-crossbone-xbox-one-padhack-board-stage-1.html



Debugging
Help! It will detect on Xbox One but not on my secondary system of choice.

Cable length is the #1 cause of this issue. Reduce the cable length out of the stick, and perhaps the length between the SYS. 2 and your second PCB's USB points.

Keep in mind that most of our setups are getting more complex, with more interconnects and also wires of undetermined length between PCBs.

For example, with the crossbone, many will use a neutrik or similar:
Long cable -> Neutrik -> USB A to micro -> Xbone -> signal switch -> soldered wires of undetermined length -> soldered or crimped to PS360+ which has multiple contact points for USB due to the multiple connection spots.

All that combined adds distortion, so the easiest way to combat it is to use something like a 10 foot or less direct solder cable to the crossbone, or something akin to a 6 foot cable if using a neutrik, especially the RJ45 legacy style of connections that offer 0 shielding.

a. Having an issue on one or more of the signals where it's constantly pressed
b. Having an issue where it's not detecting on Xbox one, but when I use the original top board it detects

Step 1. First thing to do is to remove the crossbone from the Xbox One PCB and visually inspect the soldered headers that attach to the XB1 PCB and ensure there are no obvious solder bridges.
crossboneshort-300x225.jpg


Step 2. Once you're done with that, plug in the crossbone via micro USB by itself, not attached to an xbox one PCB, and use a multimeter to measure the voltage on these marked points and the USB IN VCC. Do this before going any further. Place the black probe on GND and the red probe on these points.

3e-300x174.jpg

You should see these voltages:
USB IN VCC: ~5v
1: ~4.75v
2: ~3.5v
3: ~3.3v
4: ~3.0v

If they check out then unplug the board from the PC, put your multimeter on continuity check and test the affected inputs to see if they are shorted to ground, do this by itself and with the XB1 PCB attached.

bliss-box adapter turns in to a 4 player device and lunches on KickStarter

Street Fighter X Tekken Arcade Fightstick V.S.

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88387_SXT.jpg

it can also be connected to a 2nd one

VS_connector_kit.02.jpg

like that


it looks really good but the $200 price tag kinda scares me.

dyeing seimitsu buttons

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has anyone been able to dye these?

i got RIT dye at hobby lobby and it didnt take at all. Left them in for almost an hour, it just slid right off.

MADCATZ TE2 XBOX ONE NOT WORKING

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Hello guys, I friend of mine just sent me his TE2 to check it. At first, it was up-down inputs not working so I switched the cable for one I used with my PS3 SE (which has the same inputs)
After closing the stick, it just stopped working. Now the buttons dont light up when you plug the stick to the console and it's not recognized. The panel doesnt light up either

How can I check that I didnt screw the PCB?
Thanks in advance

Regards

Buying Sanwa / Seimitsu Retail in Okinawa?

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I know there's stores you can get them at mainland, but I've driven around on Oki and haven't seen anything that looks like it'd have pushbuttons / joysticks. Anyone who's been here knows that Oki is different than mainland Japan. I've searched everywhere on SRK for some kind of list of brick and mortar stores that carry arcade parts in Japan / Oki and haven't found anything. I'd like to buy them locally because it just seems silly to buy them online to have them shipped to the US and back.

** Focusattack.com fighting game store **

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Hey all,

Thought it was high time to formally introduce myself and my shop. I'm Jaleel, the owner of Focusattack.com and fellow Guile main (Akuma looks great as an avatar, though). Focusattack was started in 2009 with the intention of bringing all sorts sweet of fighting game merch to the community. It's grown to highlight the modding community, with joystick parts, custom accessories and other unique items. The shop also embraces unique items designed by players right in the community.

» Go to latest page

So what's the deal? Why go to focusattack.com?
  • Competitive prices on joystick parts. Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks, buttons and balltops/battops. We may not have everything the big guys do, but we strive to offer the best prices on them, and the list keeps growing.
  • Order fulfillment is fast. We usually ship within 1-2 business days of your order, or sometimes within 24 hours!
  • Unique items from the community. Check our unique section "Made in the FGC" for a list of products made for players, by players!
  • Contests -- we often offer our products as great contest prizes for players around the world!
  • Worldwide shipping: We'll ship anywhere that USPS can deliver. We also ship to US forwarding mailboxes courtesy of BONGO.
  • Helpful, Quick Service - No one likes to wait...Have questions about your order? You can now contact fulfillment@focusattack.com. Any other questions? You can hit me up via email (service@focusattack.com), Twitter, Facebook or here on SRK with any questions. I'll personally respond within 24 hours.
  • Focusattack.com is giving to the tournaments you attend with prize sponsorships, adding to the winner's pot, and participating in other community related events. We do this more than most other arcade shops.
[media=youtube]4DUYbwe10Vg[/media]

Those are just some reasons to check out the site. :) You might know a friend or two on SRK that purchased from focusattack and have good things to say. If you have any questions, hit up any of the places I mentioned or post them here on this thread. I'll gladly answer them.

That's it for now. Remember that we always highly value you, the player, the joystick builder, and the joystick enthusiast. If you have any questions, drop me a line via SRK PM, Twitter, Facebook, or service@focusattack.com.

Take care.
Jaleel
Final Boss
Focusattack.com

Help! How to install JLHS Flash1 PCB on HRAP Pro 3. SA

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Hi I need help on how to connect the 5V wire to HRAP PCB. Thanks

Building a PC for Recording and Streamimg

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RIght now at our weekly I am recording our tournaments and streaming them from home (only had access to Wifi) But we are getting access to a hardline into their router and would like to record and stream at the same time. I want to build a new computer to do this so I can record at 60fps and if the connection is good enough also stream at 60fps. Any opinions on the minimum processor, video card, and memory specs? I'm using X-Split and the hauppauge hd pvr 2, and 3 camera.

Micro$oft to offer free Windows 10 upgrades to pirates and non-pirates

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http://venturebeat.com/2015/03/18/microsoft-will-offer-free-windows-10-upgrades-to-pirates-worldwide/

In January, we learned that for one year, Microsoft would offer free Windows 10 upgrades to those running Windows 7, Windows 8.1, and Windows Phone 8.1. Today, at its Windows Hardware Engineering Community (WinHEC) event in Shenzen, the company revealed that this deal will be available to pirates worldwide.

Reuters first broke the news by quoting Terry Myerson, Microsoft’s Windows chief: “We are upgrading all qualified PCs, genuine and non-genuine, to Windows 10.” Yet the article’s headline and body focused on China, where Windows piracy rates are particularly high, so we reached out to Microsoft to confirm the scope.

“Anyone with a qualified device can upgrade to Windows 10, including those with pirated copies of Windows,” a Microsoft spokesperson told VentureBeat. “We believe customers over time will realize the value of properly licensing Windows, and we will make it easy for them to move to legitimate copies.”

We further asked to make sure that the announcement means the following is technically possible: During this one-year period after Windows 10’s launch, anyone can pirate Windows 7 or Windows 8.x and then upgrade to Windows 10 for free. “Correct; anyone in the world with a qualified device can upgrade a pirated copy of Windows to Windows 10,” the Microsoft spokesperson confirmed to VentureBeat.

This is huge. It shows just how dedicated Microsoft is to getting as many users as possible onto its latest and greatest operating system. The move also underlines the company is ready to move away from generating revenue from its Windows business.

The decision will likely translate into the fastest market share growth for a new operating system. We’re willing to bet Windows 10 will become the most popular operating system before 2015 is over.

Microsoft today also announced Windows 10 will launch “this summer” in 190 countries and disclosed hardware requirements and upgrade paths for the operating system. Still, these are all expected developments.

The fact Microsoft wants to fight piracy with free upgrades is by far the biggest news. Regardless of when a new version of Windows will be available, and what is necessary to run it, pirates tend to be the first to upgrade. This time around, though, Microsoft is giving them its blessing.
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