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I think I have been scammed

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The past 15th of may I ordered a dozen of Gamer Finger buttons from the site https://www.akishop.jp and also a couple of ball tops to customized my TE 2 and Razer sticks. I even choose the super fast EMS shipping (I have used it on sites like amiami or Nin nin game perfectly fine) However, the guys who manage the site teld me about sending me a pic with a tracking number so I could check my order status. They only sent me one pic but no tracking serial. I have ask them multiple times about my order and they always give me a excuse (no shipper avaible, lots of orders, etc) Today two weeks have passed and I haven't gotten anything. I suspect about these guys so I will call PayPal authorities in order to keep my payment away from them. I just wanna tell all the community about this problems so nobody has to suffer about this...

PD: English is not my native tongue

Playing on a 1440p monitor

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Anyone of you guys play on a 1440p monitor? I'm thinking of getting the BenQ XL2730Z. However, I don't know how the monitor will scale down to 1080p or 720p. I've heard things will look blurry. Any of you guys have experience plugging a console to a 1440p monitor and your experience with input lag.

** Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN **

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Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN!

We have now re-launched the web shop with new design, additional url (akishop.jp) and even more great products at quality prices!
What you get when you buy from us is that we buy directly from the manufacturer and then ship it from Japan directly to the customer. Picture of your order before shipping is sent out to the customer as standard.
If you have any questions then feel free to post them in this thread and I will try my best to answer them.

Arigato :).
AkihabaraShop.jp


***Disclaimer***

Akihabara Shop is not responsible for packages lost or damaged during transit. We will always take a photograph of your order before shipping out, but when it is shipped it is out of our hands. We cannot be held responsible for customs or other local taxes imposed when a parcel reaches its destination, please find out what applies to your country before ordering.

MAS Systems Official Thread

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*We recieved full permission from Kyle to make this thread*

Welcome to the MAS Systems Official Thread. In this thread you can: ask questions about our products, purchase from us, or just give us feedback on anything at all related to our merchandise or company. However, I?ll do my best to already answer a couple of these questions down below.

Which consoles do you currently make controllers for?

We make controllers for pretty much everything. Here?s a list of a couple of the popular ones:
? PS2 (works with PS1)
? PS3 (which is PS2 with an adaptor; this means if you buy the PS3, your controller will work for PS2 and PS1, all in one controller)
? PC
? X-Box 360
? GameCube
? Dreamcast
? Neo-Geo
? Supernova
And so on.

Do you offer different sized controllers?
Short answer: Full size and mini size (See below for pictures).
We manufacture both a full sized controller, as well as a mini sized controller. The main difference for the controllers: full sized controllers are more often used for tabletop purposes, which means you play with the controller sitting in front of you, not on your lap. The mini sized controller was made for the purposes of having a lighter version to place on your lap while you owned it up, sitting back into your couch or however you wished to play. Also, if your wondering, the mini version can compete just as well with a full size version, it's merely based on which one you feel suits your playing style better.

How much are your controllers?
Our controllers have a starting price of $115 for both sizes. However, the X-Box 360 has a different starting price of $170.

How much are the PCB's/PIC's?
We no longer use PCB's for our controllers, and we do not sell the PIC's by themselves.

Why does the X-Box 360 start at $170? Can I have it added to my old joystick?
It starts at $170 because the engineering behind it is a lot more difficult and labor intensive. Also, because of the way it?s made, the X-Box 360 cannot be added to an existing controller. You would have to purchase the X-Box 360 controller as your starting console, and then add more systems to that controller from there on.

Can I add more than one system to my controller? How much is it?
You can add as many systems as you would like all into one controller. The way this works cost-wise is once you decide to purchase a controller at the starting price of $115, you can then add an additional system for $40, unless you want the PS3, which is only an additional $20. Please be aware that the X-Box 360 is different in this respect. The X-Box 360 has a starting price of $170, and it cannot be added to a pre-existing controller. The only way to have multiple console with the X-Box 360 is by purchasing the X-Box 360 controller from the very start. From there, you can add on as many consoles as you want.

Will I be able to add systems later on/after I purchase the controller? Can I ship it back and/or stop by to have it done?
Definitely! A lot of people will do this, actually. You shouldn't have to buy a separate stick for every console you own. If you would like to just ship your order back to us, please make sure that you include a note inside explaining what you want in as much detail as possible; be sure to include personal information as well. If you need a format to follow, use the one at the bottom, but instead of explaining your order in detail, explain what you want added to the controller. Usually it's not a problem, but please make sure that your writing is also legible (easy to read), as that could pose some obvious problems. Alternatively, you could also drop on by and have it worked on right then and there, but please make sure you call in before doing this, as we can't ensure that we will time to work on your controller with all the other orders we have to work on! If you're lucky enough though, you may end up waiting anywhere from a half hour to a couple hours depending on what you want added in i.e. just one console as opposed to multiple consoles (please read the restrictions for X-Box 360 being added in).

What if I just want to purchase a case? How much are they?
We offer just plain empty cases for sale for both the full sized controller and the mini one. The full size case is $60 and the mini size case is $50. The X-Box 360 case is $65. Please keep in mind that shipping and handling still apply depending on your location, and in which way you choose to have it shipped

I purchased your case because I?d like to build the controller on my own, but if I have any questions on how to build it, will you help me out?
Unfortunately, we cannot help you out due to the fact that we are a business and we sell a certain product. It wouldn?t make sense for us to sell our product to those who bought it rightfully so, and then for us to turn around and help you build our product for yourself.

What kind of parts do you use for your controllers?
Traditionally, we have only used Happ parts in our controllers, and that?s what our engineer is used to working with as well. For this reason alone and also due to the fact that I only handle sales, it is not my decision on which parts can be used. Although, EvilSamurai did suggest shining some light on the subject of changing which parts we use (quoted below), which I have yet to look into as of right now, but I will definitely bring it up to the engineer.
Hi, can you guys use IL parts ( Happ has stopped purchasing their parts from Industrias Lorenzo and shifted production to their own plant in China. The quality has gone down the toilet) and quick disconnects?

Will I be able to customize my order? How so?
You can definitely customize your order to way you would like, but there are some restrictions to how far we can do this. You can customize the color/type of your buttons, you can also customize the color of the sides, as well as the type of joystick. There are a couple choices you have which I'll add in later in more detail. The T-molding is a standard black. We can do any custom faces that you would like, so long as you give us the picture you want! You have three options for the face: a black face which isn't fully black, a fully black face, or a white face.

05312010_004.jpg
*Please note that the all black mini controller with blue buttons is a special order for one of our dealers, and we cannot make that exact one for you. Its purpose is to show the all black face.*

Do you guys have any blank templates that I can use?
Short version:We're releasing blank templates of our controller layouts. Keep checking the original post as they should be up within the next day or so.

Long version: Just a heads up for anyone who may be interested. Traditionally, MAS Systems has been hesistant to allow others to use our templates for customizing their own face, but I've been receiving a lot of questions regarding blank templates lately. I've talked this over with the engineer, who I wouldn't have expected to be very interested, but as it seems, because of the direct feedback that I receive from you guys, I've managed to successfully persaude him into providing you all with a template! Expect a file to be available for use within the next day or so on the original post. Thanks for all the great feedback and questions everyone! Remember, you're always free to ask me any question at all, or suggest something you would like to see from MAS Systems. We always appreciate the feedback we receive, and the buyer's interest is of the utmost importance to us. Thanks for your time.

We do ask that you refrain from using anything copyrighted (unless it's okay to do this like with streetfighter or other things that I'm not aware of), only fan-based art or something that isn't copyrighted, or just create your own, but now you will have an exact template to work with. Thanks for your interest in MAS controllers!

How do I pay? How much is shipping? Do you ship internationally?
Payments can be made through PayPal to massystems2006@sbcglobal.net and shipping will depend on the buyer's location. We do ship internationally. TAX IS INCLUDED IN THE COST.

What if I live within the area/I'm local, can I pick it up in person and/or pay by cash instead?
If you're within the area/local, you are more than welcome to save yourself the cost of shipping and pick it up in person. You can also choose to pay by cash as well (a lot people have shown to like this method the most as it's both quick and easy).

You haven't mentioned anything about accepting cards, why is that?
Not enough customers actually paid by card, and over the years it was always the same. The card service charges a monthly fee in order for us to just have the machine there to accept cards regardless of whether or not it's used (it just wasn't being used, so we got rid of it). I'm sorry if this poses as an inconvenience to any of you, but you can still use PayPal, which is highly recommended, or pay by cash if you're local! Thanks for understanding.

Just when exactly will I be receiving my order? How come the orders aren't always finished and received within the expected time?
Your order should ship within 2-3 weeks, and it also depends on how fast you want it shipped. I understand that it can be frustrating to not recieve your order on the expected time of arrival, however you must remember that MAS Systems is only run by mainly one person who handles several orders day in and day out. Our engineer works tirelessly to make sure that each and every order is built with 110%.

Hmm.. will I be able to check up on my order then?
You will most certainly be able to check up on the status of your order! We will never hide anything from the buyer.

I'm sold, how do I go about buying one?
You can either call our phone number directly (714) 839 9770, or contact me through a PM with the following format. However, it is highly reccomended that you use the format below, or something similar to it. It just makes it easier to process/finalize your order, and things do go a lot quicker that way. It also helps to ensure that we can stay organized with our orders, instead of trying to keep track of a single order over multiple messages. No offense to anyone who has already done that, it's just preferred that we have things more organized! Thanks a lot!
Name:
Adress:
Your order in as much detail as possible:
Shipping preference (default is ground shipping):
Anything else:

You can also PM me for any questions, comments, or concerns.

- MAS Systems

P.S. We are fully aware of the fact that our phone seems to be having a lot of trouble with receiving calls, however you can still place an order either through here or through a PM. I?ll be able to get you set up just the same.

I'm still curious though.. why is this in the wrong forum? How do we know if you're legitimate or not?
If you're still wondering why this thread was made in the Tech Talk forum and not the Trading Outlet, it's because I was unable to get set up in the Trading Outlet due to strict rules and regulations. But with the help of Kyle and other supporters, I was able to set up a shop here. It's all legitimate, and I have already verified who I am with Kyle as well. I hope that answered any remaining confusion there may have been. Thanks for your time.

There are a lot of other questions that have been answered throughout the thread. Please take the time to briefly search through before asking a similar question!

BLANK TEMPLATES ARE AVAILABLE NOW!! See below! You may notice that these are full size templates, but they work just the same for mini ones. Also, just in case you're wondering, your picture should go beyond the bolded black border/frame (you can delete the black border if you want.), but the main parts of your picture should not touch the sides. This is because some of the sides are lost in the the process of fitting the design onto the controller, but I wouldn't worry about it too much. I'm guessing it would be around a quarter of an inch to half an inch.

6 button layout (REGULAR)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/6buttonlayoutREGULAR.jpg

8 button layout (REGULAR)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/8buttonlayoutREGULAR.jpg

6 button layout (XBOX 360)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/6buttonlayoutXBOX360.jpg

8 button layout (XBOX 360)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/8buttonlayoutXBOX360.jpg

HayabuSilent? Silentbusa? Hayabusa Optical Mod, ahoy!

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I love Hori's Hayabusa joystick. That V-housing just makes everything come out like butter. And as someone with a roommate, having anything that makes a bunch of noise is not exactly practical if you want to keep the peace. While you can put in silent switches, I wanted to see if I could do one better. Hence, the use of an optical pcb. But as some of you may have noticed, it's not as easy to simply just swap out parts and drop in an optical.

So let's get started. You will need a sharp knife, a rotary tool (I used a circular fine tip grinder), and a willingness to fry a $30-60 PCB. Also, I accept no responsibility if you fry/maim/bludgeon things. Carefully read through ALL of this before you even attempt this project, as you can really mess up something if you're not careful.

For more pictures of the Hayabusa and stock reference, check the Unboxing thread. Anything that I'm not covering should be noted enough in there.

Let's take a look at the two options available right now. Those being Rollie Flash1, and Toodles' Spark. Being that I had Spark on-hand and not the Spark CE, this mod is for the original Spark. I'm assuming that modding the Spark CE will work the same, as there appears to only be one extra piece on the board (the sensitivity dial), and no other changes. If anyone knows differently, feel free to let me know and I'll edit this post.

On to the PCBs:

Rollie Flash1
Toodles Spark

If you notice on the Rollie, I actually started to cut away at the "top" of the board. I stopped because I noticed that I would cut into the trace lines. This was not a big deal to me, since my original intent was to cut into as much as a I needed, and severing traces in the process. After that, I would've soldered some wires to reconnect those severed traces. But then I took a look at how the other spots I'd have to cut into and found that I might have more problems down the line. Those being some trace potentially from the face to the bottom of the board on the right side near the R7 point. I would also have to worry about the black "cover" to the PCB being affected by fitted height, should I have some new wires on the board where some of the cover rests. Bummer.

However, Toodles Spark has some things laid out a bit more spaciously, and the traces don't really get in the way of things.

Spark Cover and Screw Points
Spark Traces and Cut Points

*BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL HOW YOU HOLD AND HANDLE YOUR PCB BEFORE YOU PROCEED* You do NOT want to bend ANY of those LEDs, as you might mess up operation of those. TAKE YOUR TIME.

For the cover, the green points are where the screws have to go through to secure either the stock square gate, or any JLF gate mod. You'll need to cut away at those green triangles on the Cut Points. You don't have to go all the way to those spots, but that's where you have some leeway. You'll also notice that I have green lines on some of those gaps. You will want to grind or CAREFULLY cut away a little bit of those "sides", otherwise, you'll have a fun time trying to fit the PCB into the Hayabusa, as you'll notice some of the "pillars" will make it a rather tight fit. I initially tried to just drill through 4 points, but if you're off by even just a slight angle, the screw will not go through correctly when putting things back together. So I just grinded away after until I got what I wanted.

Also note, you'll have to grind/cut out spots VERY close to the LEDs in order to have the PCB fit correctly:

LED Cut Point

Be VERY careful with this point, as you don't want to go too far. Here's the finished product:

Finished Spark
Close-up LED

I went slightly further than I needed to in some cases, but I just wanted to get enough clearance for the screws. Also note, look at the left side of the Close-up LED image. When I started to grind into the spot next to the labeled 4K7, I slightly opened up a trace. You can kind of see a copper opening there. I stopped going further when I saw that. This also made me put the Hayabusa back together with only 3 screws. I don't know the long term affects this may or may not have, so...yolo?

Now, onto the easy part!

The only mod you need to do to the Hayabusa is to cut out a little bit from the side of where the PCB prongs stick out of.

Hayabusa Cut 1
Hayabusa Cut 2
Finished Cut

This is surprisingly easy with a box cutter, or even exacto knife. Just be careful not to cut yourself. Voila, you're done. Time to reassemble. Just put the Spark into the Hayabusa and ease it in. It might require a little bit of force to fit it down depending on how much/little you hacked away at it. Be VERY careful where and how you push it down in there. If it requires more than a bit of nudging, pop it back out, grind out a little more of the problem side, then try again. Put the cover back on the Spark, and now it's time for the gate!

One thing you'll notice is that the Spark sits a little bit taller than the Rollie:
Height Difference

Which forces the Hayabusa to not close "fully":
Assembled

This is actually fine as the screws go in far enough to hold. When putting the screws back in though, do not screw in the first one all the way. Be VERY careful about even doing this, as you may end up snapping and cracking something if you screw in the gate too far. Put the first screw in until it's "tight enough", then repeat for the other two screws. Until each one is in, tighten just a little bit more. If the gate bends in, it's probably too tight. Remember I did not put in the fourth screw near that problematic 4K7 spot.

Installed back into Fighting Edge

And here's my Hori Silent Edge:

Hori Silent Edge


Finishing Thoughts/Notes:
One thing I've noticed is that because the gate rests a little bit lower than before, there's no more of the "popping" issue some have described (top of this page). But this thing feels like money now. Silent, fast, and responsive. Couple this with the GamerFinger buttons, and I have something that doesn't piss off my wife.

Edit: "Why not just use the cover of the Rollie and drop that onto the Spark? Wouldn't that fix the 'height' issue?", you might ask. Take a look back at the Spark Traces and Cut Points image. There are four blue circles where little "pins" from the cover slide in to. Those are different than the Rollie cover. If you look on the Rollie, there are two "pin" points where its cover rests. There's a hole at the top-left of the board falling under "2011" and to the right of "94V-0". The second point is on the bottom-right of the board in-between the points marked R9 and R10 (sorry if that's not more visible). Just do a visual comparison of both PCBs and you'll see why, without a bunch of hacking around, is not possible. There's also the matter of the LEDs being in different spots. Spark LEDs also stand a little bit higher.

I may or may not get a Spark CE sometime soon(ish?), because I personally feel that the Spark is a bit more sensitive than I prefer (Rollie feels perfect). My brain is also itching to see if I can get the Rollie modded up with soldering and such. So if I do either, I'll update this thread accordingly.

Full Album

Thoughts/Comments/Questions?

Edit: Wtf with the spam thing right after I posted this?

HRAP4 Kai thread

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As many of us our receiving our Kai's this week I figured it would be helpful for prospective buyers to have a thread that provided some initial impressions of the stick. However I do believe that while frank castle's thread is a must read but while that thread is (and should be) factual and informative, it might be nice to have a space to dedicate to owners thoughts. All thoughts are opinions and not definitive by any means.

Upon unboxing the first thing I noticed was the sticks weight. It is solid. Not light by any means but not heavy enough to be cumbersome. I found it to be a nice balance between the two and feels good on the lap as well as on a table. The grip material on the bottom is well placed and keeps the stick firmly planted on a table or in my lap .

Thehayabusa stick itself has a nice smooth action and has a satisfying click to it. Resistance feels great, not heavy but not ligh . Again, well balanced.

Kuro buttons felt great to me. I know some have mentioned a squeak I the buttons but I found this to be untrue on my particular unit. Buttons felt responsive and operated smoothly. They were quieter than expected especially when compared with the sanwas. I did not find them to be mushy at all and execution was crisp.

Instructions were near useless for figuring out the different functions of the togge switches. (Perhaps an ambitious soul would care to write a thread explaining these essential functions in plain English) However all toggle switches worked as intended, it just takes a while to figure out if you are not familiar withtheir operation.

Touchpad worked just as well as the ds4 controller when tested (used it to send a message and it felt very responsive)

Cord compartment door felt solid and closes with a satisfying click. The door is not flimsy and stays shut both in storage and during play.

Not directly related to the stick but amazon DID ship the stick in another box, so if you care to keep the hori box clean and undamaged this may be the way to order yours.

All in all I,m very satisfied with the purchase

By the way, even though this is my first post I've been a longtime lurker and have noaffiliation with hori lol. To be honest I originally ordered the te2 but backed out once I saw the late April shipping and lack of touchpad support.

Anyway hope this helps somebody out there!

PS2 Controller on PS4?

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Anyone have a solution for this?
It seems like USF4 on PS4 has somehow allowed controller support beyond Madcatz fightsticks, and I've seen people saying that their USB Sega Saturn Controllers are working too. I use a PS2 contoller and was looking for a latency-free method of converting my PS2 controller to my PS4 somehow but I'm not sure what adapter to invest in or if this would even work?

Damaged Disk - Need to Train - Will this work?

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Someone at CFAS Hard Times in Manassas, VA jacked my copy of Marvel last week. Boo hoo. Now I'm using a version of the game that was trampled by a 50 pound boxer mix. Sometimes the xbox menu saying the disc is unreadable pops up when im in training mode - unusual considering most of the loading has already been done.

If i were to go buy a copy of marvel from Gamestop, install it, and return it, do you think the game would operate with a hard drive copy plus the damaged disc? Might be worth a shot? Thoughts would be great, I may just experience the same issues. On the other hand, maybe the xbox just checks for the disc to be present and then runs the full version off the drive, otherwise, WTF would be the point of installing it?


Merged: te2 button talk

Qanba Q1 Xbox Compatibility

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Hello,
I purchased a Qanba Q1 wih the intent of using it on my PS3 and PC. I'm going to a tournament where only 360's are being used. Is there an adapter or something I can buy? Everyone says they suck, and I'd rather not mess with the insides of my stick. On the website there are two sticks, one for PS3 and one for Xbox. If this has already been answered, please point me in the right direction.
Thank you!

Converter Compatibility Thread

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Read the FAQ before posting! :bluu:

There is not a converter for using a TE on a system other than the one it was designed for.

There is no USB to anything older. No USB to PS2, Dreamcast, etc. You must mod your stick with a MC Cthulhu or a second PCB.

If you want a stick that works on both Xbox 360 and PS3 (And PS2, Dreamcast, etc.) get a PS2 stick like a HRAP or Namco. You can then use converters to adapt it to various systems.

You can not plug a random USB controller or converter into either the Xbox 360 or PS2. The Xbox 360 only works with Xbox controllers due to its security scheme. The PS2 was never designed to accept it.

The PS3 can use HID compliant (driverless) USB controllers for PS3 and PS1 games (not PS2). This makes the USB Saturn pads worth getting. Beware of bootlegs.

The PS1 Dual Shock has the best compatibility with converters. If you are building a custom stick then these are the way to go. The original, non-analog controllers have problems with most converters and are not recommended if you can avoid them.

Most custom PS1/PS2 sticks were made with Sony PCBs. When submitting a compatilibility report open your stick and see what kind of pad is inside. The Dual Shock pads have analog sticks. The original Digital pads do not.

There are three versions of the SFAC stick. Unscrew the bottom of the case to check the PCB before purchasing an adapter. Check next to the system cable for the voltage. It will read either 3.5V 7.5V or 8V. This number is indicated in the listing below whenever possible.

Please test your converter if it can be connected to a PC:

If you purchase a converter that's USB (PS2 to PS3, etc.) and want to test it for lag (on Windows) then download this application developed by SRK member Colac. It's straightforward to use once you get the hang of it.
To accurately test your adapter/converter, you need to:

1) Turn off vertical sync in your graphics card settings.

2) Using a key on your keyboard to run through the program once and record down the input lag time from your keyboard.

3) Plug your gamepad and stick through the adapter that you want to test into your PC. Then, use programs like (xpadder) to map a button on your gamepad or stick to the SAME key that you tested in step one. Run the program and record down the input lag again.

4) Subtract the two results you got from previous steps. If the difference is less than 2 ms (i.e., stick input lag - keyboard input lag <= 2ms), then your adapter can be considered as lag free.

PS2 to PS3/USB

Note: Sony is at it again with 3.5. The Real and HAIS are reportedly done for.

The 2.7 firmware update rendered the Sumoto and TAC adapters unusable with the PS3. This was corrected with 2.8. I'm hesitant to recommend them in light of this but they are working again.

The majority of these converters should also work on a PC without drivers (InPin, Pelican). If you only care about PC compatibility then the Super Joy Box 3 Pro was highly recommended. It does not work on the PS3.

*Recommended* InPin: This is the best option that's readily available. It's sold by exclusively by SRK member laugh. Visit his eTokki shop to order one.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS, MAS, HRAP Series, Namco PS1, SFAC 3.5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V?, certain PS1 Digitals

*Recommended* Pelican: People claim that these are the only adapter to feature code from Sony. They have excellent compatibility with the exception of PS1 digital PCBs. They're by far the most expensive ($50+) but can occasionally be found used at GameStop for a few dollars.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, HRAP 2, SFAC 3.5, Namco PS1, Saulabi
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, SFAC 7.5V

HVG2: These are reportedly a good converter if your stick has a analog capabilities; like a custom with a PS1 DS. It will not work with a digital PCB like most consumer sticks have (HRAP).
Compatible With: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, Hori Fighting Stick, SFAC 3.5V, 7.5V
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Namco PS1, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2, SFAC Pad
Reviews: Riotblade

DragonPlus: There were conflicting reports on this adapter. Most of its owners reported it as lagless. Press Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Tekken 5 stick

Cablesforpc: This is the one to get for owners of the SFAC stick with an 8V PCB. It allows two PS2 controllers to be connected.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, 8V, HRAP 1
Incompatible with: SFAC 7.5V
Reviews: Annihilationscape

Sumoto: These were reported as the best adapter for Sony digital PCBs (original pads without analog sticks). A few users have claimed they're lagless, and I haven't seen a negative review on them yet.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, Tekken 5, Pelican Universal, Pelican PS2, Ascii PS1, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with:

TAC: These were reported to work well with SFAC and HRAP series. MarkMan and others reported that it has issues so I would avoid it in favor of something else. Hold Analog for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital

Real (Incompatible with 3.5): These were once all the rage but are now discontinued. They notably do not work with PS2 DS controllers.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1, SFAC, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: PS2 DS

Hais (Incompatible with 3.5): These reportedly work well and include a PS2 memory card reader. They have taken Sumoto's place as a solid/budget converter. Press Analog or Up+Select for XMB. Hold Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC, SFAC pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Pelican Universal
Reviews: Canto

PS2/3 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* Controller Converter Pro by Blaze (?): This is an unmarked converter that is similar in appearance to the Blaze PS2-360. It notably does not require a 360 controller for passthrough. It reportedly works well with a HRAP3 and features similar compatibility to the Blaze.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS3 DS3, HRAP3, HRAP2, Namco T5, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: MadCatz TE and SE, Pelican Universal

PS2 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* PS&PS2 to 360 converter (Xtokki360) by Tinybee: These converters, originally sold through Focalprice, are the best available option for PS2 to 360. They do not require an Xbox 360 controller for passthrough like the others listed below. They are also the only converter to feature a headset jack. They are sold by SRK member laugh. He is the recommended supplier because of Focalprice's questionable shipping. Analog or Select + L3 for Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, Tekken 5, MC Cthulhu, Mayflash PS2/PS3, Tekken 4, Fighting Stick PS, ASCII Stick 3
Incompatible with:
Reviews: kaioshade, DrgnAK

The following converters require a wired 360 controller to bypass Microsoft's security scheme. A wireless controller with a Play & Charge cable will not work. Read Ikagi-chan's post for more information. The Blaze and Xtokki360 above feature a Microsoft security chip to bypass this requirement.

*Recommended* Xconverter 360 by Joytron: These were the best option until the introduction of the Xtokki360. They are now discontinued. Previously sold by SRK member laugh who brought us the InPin. Analog = Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, MAS, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:
Reviews: laugh, Ikagi-chan, Gamecop

*Recommended* BlazePro: These Hong Kong converters can be had for $10 on eBay. They are basically superseded by the PS3 to 360 converter listed above.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller, Saturn PS2 pad, Blaze Twin Shock
Incompatible with:
Reviews: Source thread

Max Shooter by Mayflash: These work great except for an issue with simultaneous key presses. Pressing corresponding buttons, for example: Right+Circle will cause the converter to freeze until another button is pressed.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP 1, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: HRAP 2, SFAC 8V

XFPS by XCM: There are a few revisions of this adapter but I can't recommend it at all. It reportedly lags and/or drops input even with a real Sony PS1 or PS2 controller. The OP repeatedly trashes them earlier on in the thread. There are 10 negative posts for every positive I could find. Read this, this, this, this, this, and this before deciding to spend your money on one of these.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS
Incompatible with: Namco PS1, HRAP 2

Xbox 360 to PS3

Cross Battle Adapter by XCM: MarkMan confirmed that this drops inputs similar to the XFPS. People with 360 sticks should look into adding a Cthulhu PCB (Photos) for PS3 compatibility.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with:

PS2 to DC

*Recommended* Total Control Plus: These are usually recommended since they're readily available. Toggle the switches on it to change the triggers.
Compatible with: Sony DS 2, HRAP, HRAP 2, SFAC, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: Some MAS sticks

*Recommended* Dream Connection 2 by Innovation (original URL, sold out): These as reportedly the best converters but are expensive and hard to come by. The SFAC Pad isn't recommended because it treats L1 and R1 (the HP/HK buttons) as the same button.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2/SA, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V

PS2 to GameCube/Wii

*Recommended* Cube JoyBox Pro by Mayflash: These are the most commonly recommended converters for GC. They work with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom on Wii.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA, MAS, Namco PS1, Tekken 5, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:

Magic Path II by EMS: These apparently work equally as well as the Cube JoyBox. They're also reported to work fine with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, HRAP
Incompatible with:

Game Elements (eBay): This is the converter I've happily used for years. It works great on the GameCube/Wii as well as the Xbox. ArcadeStickMonk used it as well.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 2 SA, MAS
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital (works on Xbox) SFAC 8V, Tekken 5 (Works on Xbox), SFAC Controller

PS2 to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: These are lag free and the Saturn port is awesome. It went completely nuts when I plugged in my PS1 DS stick.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP, HRAP 2 SA
Incompatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC Pad, SFAC 8V

*Recommended* Game Elements: These work very well. See the GameCube section above.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2 SA, MAS, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Directional issues w/3rd Strike

X-Connection by Innovation: I would think the Innovation name would guarantee this one a winner, but it reportedly doesn't work with certain games or the HRAP 2.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with: HRAP 2

PS2 to Saturn, SNES, etc.

A company called ToToTEK makes a wide variety of PS2 to classic system adapters. There's one for 3DO, Neo-Geo, Famicom (NES), FC2003 (?), Saturn, GameCube, SNES, PC Engine (TurboGrafx-16), and Genesis (Mega Drive). They reportedly work well from everything I've read.

Saturn to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: This works great with an official Sega pad. There isn't a Select button for Insert Coin but some Xbox emulators like FB Alpha allow it to be remapped. Only problem is that they're hard to find.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad
Incompatible with: Nights Analog Pad

Saturn to PS2

*Recommended* Keio Console Converters: These are a godsend for people wanting to use their Saturn pads on other systems. They can be chained to other converters for use on the Xbox 360, PS3, etc.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad, HSS-0130
Incompatible with:

Xbox to USB (Not PS3)

The original Xbox uses a USB connector with a funky male end. Female Xbox to male USB adapters can be had on eBay for a few dollars. No conversion is necessary. This reportedly works fine for the SFAC stick.

Xbox 360 to USB (Not PS3)

Xbox 360 sticks/controllers work fine on Windows using Microsoft's drivers. They're available for both 32-bit and 64-bit.

Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more

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We have been floating around for a little while posting and received a recommendation to start a thread. Paradise Arcade Shop is based in Hawaii, working to bring a variety of controls to the arcade and fight stick market. We carry a number of different options for price points in both sticks and buttons, but we only sell products that we would use. That means, there is a difference between a Porsche and a Toyota, we see a place for both of those in the market, and we won't sell Toyota's at Porsche prices.

I say "we" as Ponyboy likes to harass me about, because the company is my wife and I. For those of you who have ordered already(thank you) she packs the orders and answers about 90% of the emails (mostly logisitics, but she is answering the "How to I light an LED" questions now) This is also her full time job and my part time job. She works hard to send out all stock items in 1-2 days, and rides my ass about the cutsom builds so they stay close to 1-3 days(We build LED sticks to order, and some of our game systems)

I have been an active membe of KLOV, Coinopspace, and BYOAC for sometime, and we sell on EBAY and Amazon. I will probably edit the intro down in the future, but I wanted just let people know who "we" are and who I am. Thank you for all the support and orders we already have received and now...it's time for the good stuff!

Mortal Kombat 9 Stick mod products!!!!! If you want new controls with the same forms to just upgrade your stick try some of these IL products and microswitch upgrades.

Translucent Concave IL buttons - A great upgrade to your stick, especially with...

IL-lumination LED pads - Available in RGB or single color
[media=youtube]P7zdGGsF2oI[/media]

IL Eurosticks provide "Happ Competition" Style with an upgrade in quality

And, for amazing light touch, upgrade any Happ or IL button to our 20 gram micros (Please note that these are 20 gram max spec and really are closer to 15 grams of actuation force)

We also carry JLF's, JLW's, LS-32, LS-32-01, LS-40, PS-14-KN pushbuttons, re-released PS-14-K Skeleton buttons, Paradise LED sticks, custom ball tops and a variety of hollow shafts(we also have 10 new custom hollow shafts on order, need a long JLF shaft or want to put a ball top on a Eurostick joystick?)

Finally... we have two new ball tops in, Pearls and Emerald Green that will be available shortly and were built to match the Rollie Buttons.
IMG_6424.JPG
And the answer is "Yes, the pearl will light up."
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Sanwa JLF vs Hori Hayabusa

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What is a better stick, the Sanwa JLF or the Hori Hayabusa and why?

Sanwa 30mm Buttons vs Hori Kuro Buttons

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What are better, Sanwa 30mm Buttons or Hori Kuro Buttons, and why?

Razer Atrox Question/Arcade Stick Quesiton

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I had a question about arcade sticks now I am sure that this has been answered somewhere on the forums but I am looking to get an Arcade Stick, I was going to get the Street Fighter Round 2 TE but amazon seems to be out of those. So I have been looking at possibly getting a Razer Atrox. Now currently I am playing on an Xbox 360 for UMvC3 and Street Fighter but I may get an Xbox One (Killer Instinct) in the future so I was planning on possibly getting the Xbox One version of the Atrox after the release. Now I was wondering if the Atrox will be able to work on Xbox 360/PC/Xbox One. I can not seem to find any concrete information on if that will be possible.

Thank you guys for any help.

Xbox One HRAP Hayabusa questions

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Hey all, my lovely wife surprised me with an HRAP for the Xbone for my birthday. Has anyone tried their hand at adding a PS360+ to it, or another dual/tri/quad mod with the existing PCB? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

arcade button specs?

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im looking for what the normal arcade button sensitivity is and what size buttons do i need for the te2? thanks.

Avermedia Live Gamer Portable help

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If possible, I've been trying to find a way to record Xbox Live party chat when using the Avermedia LGP in PC free mode. Can anyone please help?

Disabling TURBO on Madcatz PS3 PCB

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So I realized that my problem was becoming very off topic in the Xbox One Third Party thread and I can't find a solution anywhere so I figured I'd post this and see if anyone knows how to to it.

I tri modded a Mad Catz KE PS3 stick with an MKX Xbone/360 pad. All the inputs work and I'm able to go from PS3 to Xbox One to 360 with no problem but every time I use the Xbox pad, all the inputs act like they are in TURBO mode (the actual LED on the turbo panel flashes and everything). It happens randomly and not right away. I can start playing a game and then all of a sudden any button I press will go into turbo mode. It pretty much acts the same way turbo would act if you intentionally hold the turbo button down to activate a specific input. This however does not occur on the PS3 side, this side still acts normal.

I have double checked everything (maybe over 4 times lol) and nothing seams out of place. I have both GROUND and 5v connected together and the button signal wires meeting at the barrier strip.

Since there doesn't seam to be anything obviously wrong with the installation, I want to remove the turbo function completely. Do you guys know if this is possible?

Sanwa OBSF-30RG questions..

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I'm thinking about placing an order from akihabara shop for some of these buttons for my new Hori VLX stick... Anyone have experience with these buttons? I've found with my experience that the Sanwa OBSF-30's are a bit "inconsistent", meaning that some of the buttons I've used have a different feeling give to them. I'm hoping that these buttons have the same resistance is a normal OBSF-30 but are more consistent... One thing that sucks is they don't have white or black buttons, so the only choice I can really go with is red.. Oh well.. Anyone care to chime in?
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