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Venom arcade stick PS4/PS3

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Hi guys!
do you have heard anything about the Venom PS4 arcade stick? I take a look at the description and photos(since it´s the only thing we got) and it looks like the mayflash V2, the case looks the same used on the mayflash v2.
Since the descrition says it has premium quality parts (I dont know what they call premium quality parts) I assume it comes with sanwa or seimitsu parts. The color of the buttons and balltop looks navy, so maybe it has the PS-15 navy(I dont believe but it´s the only quality buttons I know with that color). The price is 75€($86), a nice chance to get a PS4 stick. It looks nice btw, here is some photos:

510vrHSsA9L._SL1000_.jpg
51n%2BjTsrADL._SL1000_.jpg
61%2BUA4cxMtL._SL1000_.jpg

I was looking on the net and I found other PS4 stick with the same name but different in all aspects, looks a kind of cheap one, here is it:

Joypad-Sony-Arcade-Stick-Sony-PS4-Zubehoer.png







Hit Box - We so S Tier1!!

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Welcome to the Hit Box community!

[media=youtube]dGU1d-cmtuQ[/media]
http://www.hitboxarcade.com
http://www.youtube.com/hitboxes


FAQ
1. What is the Hit Box?

The Hit Box all-button controller, AKA the "Stickless Stick," is a game controller specifically designed for fighting games. We replaced the joystick with directional buttons that are controlled by your fingers.

2. Why buttons?

By using 4 directional buttons controlled by 4 fingers, you gain:

- Increased input speed
- Consistent inputs yield fewer mistakes
- Exclusive control over your movement
- No travel time inputting directions
- Button techniques apply to movement and special inputs (plinking, piano, double tap, slide)
- Game-specific features such as SSFIV input shortcuts (such as walking dragon punches)
- No unintentional inputs such as accidental jumps
- No arm/wrist motion
- Stays put in your lap



3. Are those smaller buttons than normal?

Yes. We use 24mm Sanwa pushbuttons with exception to the 'Up' button, which is 30mm. They are highly sensitive buttons and work perfectly. 24 mm buttons are able to be brought closer together and fit the natural curve of the human hand. When the button spread is closer together, players find all buttons directly at their finger tips with no hand-hovering.

4. Can I still execute throws and focus attacks on this smaller layout?

Yes.

5. What about plinking and double tapping my combo links?

Of course.

6. Why have a shared jump button for your thumbs?

It is larger than the other buttons so both thumbs can access "Up" depending on player preference. By utilizing this, you can perform advanced "joystick" motions easily. Tri-jumps and Tiger Knee inputs are much faster and more accurate. It also makes many Just-Frame inputs incredibly easy.

8. Who is this for? Do I need keyboard experience?

While it appears to share the most common ground with a keyboard, Hit Box is a balance between Joystick, Pad, and Keyboard together. You dont need background in any controller to appreciate the Hit Box: Anyone can use it!

9. Can I still do everything I can do on my joystick?

Everything and more.

10. What about Hadokens and Dragon Punches and SPDs?

Yes. Quickly and accurately.

11. What about "______'s ________ combo"?

Yes.

12. Is there a learning curve?

The learning curve is creating fast, new memory in your fingers. It doesn't take long. This also gets rid of old bad habits too!

13. Are these for advanced players only?

No! The benefits of these boxes can be appreciated by everyone from the beginning player to the most advanced tournament player. The whole purpose of the Hit Box is to aide your fundamentals and build your foundation so that you can focus on what actually matters in a match: your opponent.

14. What happens when you hold the Left and Right buttons together?

Left + Right = Neutral. Your character will stand still. No charging or blocking occurs.

15. Can I hold Left and Right to block cross ups?

No. Left + Right = Neutral; you will get hit in the face.

18. Can I walk forward and charge a sonic boom?

No.

19. Can I hold Back and perform shoryuken motions?

No. Left + Right = Neutral.

20. Is "Left + Right = Neutral" useless?

No! Left + Right is the basis for many advanced techniques that will make your life easier! You get access to 3-frame dashes, 1-button FADCs, rapid dragon punches, new option selects, safe and easy Korean backdash cancelling, and much more! Left + Right will help your execution significantly. Check out all of the tech in our video section!

Combo Videos
How to Hit Box Tutorials

Interactive Learning Tools


N_Close_2_1024x1024.jpg?28


Interested in getting your Hit Box modded? Vickomods located nearby Hit Box HQ and offers his services for your Hit Box modding needs. Check him out at vickomods.com!!!
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UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

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Introduction -

Alright, folks, here it is, a fully consolized CPS2. And when I say fully consolized I don't mean with some monstrous external power supply and DB 15 connectors that require custom joysticks or adapters. I'm talking about a setup where everything is "off the shelf."

The core elements of this project are: Power, Video, and Controls:

Power - Internal DC/DC converter. An off the shelf laptop charger supplies this board with power which is then converted to proper voltages necessary to run everything inside.

Video - [NTSC] Composite, S-Video, and low resolution RGB+S (no Component). Uses a standard off the shelf Playstation A/V port cable.

Controls - 2 Player XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support. Yes, you just plug and play.

Photos of one of my prototypes:

th_DSC07928.jpgth_DSC07925.jpgth_DSC07923.jpg
th_DSC08337.jpg
th_DSC08335.jpg

Location Tests -

Devastation 2011 - Phoenix, AZ (early prototype, hard-wired controls)
th_DSC07913.jpg

EVO 2012 - Las Vegas, NV (prototype, XBOX 360 support)
th_DSC08205.jpg

AIAB This is It! 2012 - Tucson, AZ (prototype, PS3 & XBOX 360 support)
th_DSC08316.jpg

ST Games @ EVO 2013 - Las Vegas, NV (production, PS3 & XBOX 360 support)
th_DSCF0417_zpsb1535561.jpg

F.A.Q. -

Ordering:
Q: What am I getting exactly?
A: You will receive a modified system (CPS2 A Board), power adapter (100-240V AC), video cable (Composite & S-Video), and USB cable for future firmware updates to the controller interface. You will still need a game (CPS2 B Board), TV (CRT with S-Video recommended), and controller (X360 or PS3).

Q: Can I pre-order one of these now?
A: Yes! I have not opened an official sales thread, but for the time being you can send me a PM or e-mail me: udgametech [AT] gmail.com

Q: So, how does ordering work, exactly?
A: Just let me know that you want to order a system and I will respond with an order number and an estimated time to complete it. When your order is being built, I will send you a payment request, after which you will have 2 weeks to make payment or forfeit your order position.

Q: How much does shipping cost?
A: It depends on which country you live in. USA is $20. Other countries vary.

Q: What forms of payment do you take?
A: This also depends on which country you live in. USA: PayPal (shipping only to verified address), money order, bank transfer, or personal check. Other countries: bank transfer or money order.

Q: I already have an A Board. Can I save money on my order and just send you mine?
A: Yes. You can receive $30 off of your order for each A-board sent (you can send multiple). However, you are not guaranteed to receive the exact board you sent (it is difficult to keep track of who sent what when they are disassembled in batches). Two other reasons to send me an A Board would be 1.) you would like an ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange compatible system, or 2.) you want an absolutely mint condition A Board and you happen to have one.

Q: I already have a laptop power supply. Can I save money on my order and just use mine?
A: No. I'd rather you start with a setup that has already been guaranteed to work than spend any time trying to figure out why power supply x isn't working properly.

General:
Q: What region/color B Board (Game Cartridge) will run on the UD-CPS2?
A: The standard compatibility for the UD-CPS2 is US/Blue and JP/Green (and RENTAL/Yellow, as far as I know). If one desires to play ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange games, a custom order can be placed for a unit which is compatible with (only!) one of those.

Q: Will this still work on an arcade cabinet?
A: No. Even if the JAMMA connector were exposed, there are still technical reasons for it not being able to run both ways.

Video Related:
Q: I'm tired of lugging around a heavy CRT TV to gatherings/tournaments. Being able to hook this up to a monitor would be a huge convenience. Is there any way to have Component Video available for this?
A: Not natively. You could run the UD-CPS2's RGBS output through an RGB to Component transcoder (like this) to output 240p Component Video, but any HD monitor (that actually supports 240p) must upscale that resolution in order to display it. Upscaling inevitably adds lag to your setup, therefore (non-HD) CRTs are the lag free display of choice for this system.

Q: I would like to stream/capture video from this unit. Do you have a recommended setup?
A: In the realm of standard resolution, the highest video quality for the least amount of hardware headache is certainly S-Video. By simply running S-Video and Stereo Audio to a distribution amplifier (like this or CE Labs AV 400SV) you can run both the player setup and stream/capture setup at excellent quality with fairly little extra hardware/cabling.

Q: Will this output PAL video?
A: No. There are no immediate plans to add PAL support.

Controller Related:
Q: Will all PS3 and XBOX 360 controllers work with UD-CPS2?
A: This cannot be guaranteed, but based on location testing, it certainly works with the majority. Also, the controller interface firmware can be updated via USB, so future firmware updates may expand controller support as more data is gathered.

Q: Can USB controllers other than XBOX 360 & PS3 be used?
A: No. I'd like to add support for other controller types in the future, though.

Q: Can buttons be re-mapped?
A: Yes, all buttons except for START and SELECT are able to be mapped to any one of the 6 Punch/Kick buttons.

Q: Can directions be re-mapped?
A: No.

Spinoff Products -

For those of you looking to add XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support to your own superguns, I will be making discrete USB Decoders, soon. There's a dedicated thread for those here:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/186701/undamned-s-usb-decoders-usb-to-jamma-etc/p1

I will also be making available the internal DC/DC converter used in the UD-CPS2 so people can use those in their own consolization/supergun projects! When those are available, I will update this post with a link to a separate thread.

The rest of this thread is a work log from early in the project up to the present...

The continuing adventures of the XBOne padhack

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So, I have been wondering about how I might light my buttons on my padhack if I decide to go down that route later.

So would love some input from people with more knowledge on XBOne pad hack setups.

Thought 1: I'm assuming self lit buttons would just work, yes?

Thought 2: Assuming I want the lights to trigger when the rumble feature is activated, could I wire LED's into my rumble motor contact points successfully?
If I could I'm assuming I may need resistors or the like as not to detonate the lights, what would I be looking at in this regard?
Extending on this idea, does anyone know if all rumble motors trigger at the same time?

Thought 3: More about internal lighting for my box, how would this best be achieved?

And on a slightly different note, I'm sure I've seen it somewhere on here before, but if anyone could link me I will love you forever, wiring up a battery pack for an xbone padhack?

Sega Saturn display problem

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Hi guys,
Unsure where to post as as I opened a thread before and they said to post here.

I've hooked my sega saturn up, it's av cable to scart. It came with it from when I bought it from eBay, and had it boxed for 10 years until now .....so i get this screen?


https://m.imgur.com/W3fLYWE

This just needing needing a different wire for my hdtv?


....and the clock keeps restarting. .I've heard this is something to do with a battery but that's a minor issue for now?

30mm art circles for buttons

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Good evening fine people of SRK! Just had a quick question regarding custom button art. What do you guys use to cut 30mm circles? I know I can just cut it by hand, but I would like to make these as close to perfect as possible. Anyone have a neat tool they use or something?

Anyone here bought a VEWLIX kit from KRAY?

Having issues with the PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB


Noodalls input lag testing (unique method - games/controllers/etc) (11/4 averages added + ranked)

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I wanted to create my own thread on this topic, as the method that I've come up with overcomes several of the disadvantages of other methods. I feel that I have a lot of information out on twitter and in other threads, but it would be nice to consolidate it all into one thread that can be updated as I test.

The concept for how this test works is to watermark the screen image at the exact time the controller is being pressed. This is done using optocouplers, so that there can be no electrical cross talk between different components of the testing circuit. This should ensure mean that the signal arrives at the controller at the same time as it interrupts the video signal.

I have made several videos explaining this here.



New one explaining the results format

image

USB extension cable for stick - anything to worry about?

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The cord of my stick (PS3 R1 TE if it matters) is a little too short for me now that I've changed my setup and need to route it behind my entertainment shelf. So I figured the obvious solution would be to get a USB extension cable (this one specifically).

Do I have to worry about a USB extension possibly causing dropped inputs/lag, not being recognized by the PS3, or anything of that sort? I'm assuming that they don't cause any problems since they're such a simple product, but I just wanted to make sure before buying one.

USB device not recognized

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Hello SRK forums,

I recently bought a modded Xbox 360 MadCatz SE fightstick online in hopes of using it to play AE on PC. This is also my first fightstick, so I was pretty excited. My PC uses Windows 7, and on the first day of use, it installed the drivers immediately after being plugged in, and worked perfectly. Second day, it's also working perfectly. On the third day, I booted up AE and realized the buttons suddenly weren't working despite the light being on. "No biggie" I say, and simply unplug it and plug it back in. After plugging it back in, I get "USB device not recognized" on the screen. This continued after several tries of unplugging/plugging it back in. I tried uninstalling and re-installing the driver, system restore to an earlier time, various other drivers, plugging it into the other USB ports, researching for hours and all for nothing. I start thinking that maybe the stick is faulty, but before assuming so I tried plugging it into my dads laptop, which runs Windows XP, and it worked just fine. The stick isn't the problem so it has to be something with either my PC's USB ports, or Windows 7. All the other related stories I read about were people attempting to use their fightstick or 360 controller on Windows 7/Vista as well. After some more experimenting, I find out that I can simply unplug/plug it back in until it works.This obviously isn't the best solution considering I was sitting there unplugging/plugging it in for at least 2 minutes before it finally worked on the last try. I was wondering if anyone else has, or had this problem, and what might be a good fix for it.

Thanks,

Shade

The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

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Welcome Sheets:
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf

MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip

Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/

Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.

Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis

Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.

_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:

Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.

Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.

Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)

Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)

Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread

Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.

Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.

Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.

Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.

Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power

Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack

Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.

Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.

Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.

Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.

Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework

Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:

PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS

PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select

PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)

1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X

Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A

Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start

Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks

NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)

NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A

NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start

SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select

Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L

3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop

TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)

Normal:
1K: II
2K: I

Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I

Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I


Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.

Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.

Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.

Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.

Q: What about converter support?
A:
Tested as working:
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)

Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
____________
ChimpSMD Questions

Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.

Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577

Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.

Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.

Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.

Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.

Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp

Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306


Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3:
[] /\  R1  L1
 X  O  R2  L2
For Xbox360:
X  Y  RB  LB
A  B  RT  LT
You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.

Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.

Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.

Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.

Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:

If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:

Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)

If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.

Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html

Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.

Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.

Project: Dedicated Smash Bros Arcade Stick - Update - Seimitsu LS-64 in action!

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Update:
Intro Video
image

Stick in action
image

Update 2
JLF smash stick: added the ability to taunt (up, down, left, and right) with the 4 un-used buttons on the top of the qanba q1 case (the disabled home, turbo, select, and mode buttons)

LS-64 smash stick: had Gummo wire the joystick and buttons to a harness so I can drop everything in and out of cases with ease. I plan to have a temporary case done within a week made out of wood (I'm having my good friend help me out, he's the one playing on a Frankenstein arcade stick currently like I mentioned in an earlier post). I'd also like to have a permanent custom case finished within 2 months. Here's 2 videos of the LS-64 in action!

image

image

Full details here: (will be updated with more info soon)
Non-Analog Arcade Stick
This was the one I competed with at CEO. The gamecube padhack is housed in a qanba q1 I had already owned and I upgraded the parts to sanwa at CEO. The analog version currently lacks a case because the LS-64 is too big to mount in any existing case I have, I have to get a case custom made for it.

Top view - shows button layout. Ignore the button names on the default qanba artwork.
4 orange buttons = A, L, Y, B (from bottom to right)
4 yellow buttons = c-stick buttons (up, down, left, and right)
green button = "shift" button. (See video below)
bzB9ddi.jpg
3gGxSqI.jpg
image
Demonstration was done via Dolphin emulator because I don't own any nintendo consoles, however the shift button on the arcade stick works the same way on console as it does in Dolphin emulator. Whenever the shift button (green button) is NOT pressed, the joystick is 100% engaged (acting as the left analog stick). Whenever the shift button IS pressed, the joystick is x% engaged. I can I open the stick and adjust the percentage (in every direction) if I'd like but I currently have it set to 40%. I plan to raise it but need to do more testing to find what will be appropriate. The shift button is what allows me to walk/run, and do tilt attacks so it was an integral part of this build since this stick lacks an analog joystick.

If you look to the left of the stick (in the video), you can see a gamecube-PC adapter, this is needed so I can use the stick on the computer since the stick now lacks a usb cable and now natively uses a gamecube cable (since there's a gamecube PCB inside it).
wBPz0m7.jpg


Due to the gamecube PCB inside, Gummo had to dremel off a piece of the interior structure of the case so the case could close. The piece that was removed served no vital part of the structure of the case, it was just a piece that allowed the qanba q1 to be mounted with table clamps. We covered the hole with black electric tape.
T5SIg9S.jpg
z8A5vA5.jpg
maxresdefault.jpg

Now for the part that every one wants to see... the guts!
tKTY6un.jpg

I highlighted 3 unique areas of the insides (see spoiler below).
Red = screw terminals which is where the buttons and everything are connected to. This allows solderless removal/addition of buttons since currently not every button is mapped to the stick because I currently lack enough buttons on the stick.
Green = Trigger potentiometer. This is a slider that is normally attached to the gamecube controller's trigger, sliding this allows me to set whatever % I'd like for the light shield button. Currently the stick lacks a light shield button and only has a hard shield button. This will change once I get a new case/plexi with enough button holes.
Blue = 4 potentiometers that allow me to adjust how much % the "shift" button will change the joystick to. Each pot controls one direction of the joystick. You just take a small flathead screw driver and turn them, it's pretty simple. However, they will turn forever so I hooked up the arcade stick to a computer to know how much % I'm getting when I'm turning them.

I also included close-up's of the pcb.
1Qxuoa3.jpg
hUY3RnT.jpg
qsi8Ifz.jpg



Analog Arcade Stick
This is the stick that will use the LS-64. Because this one lacks a case, I can only show you the wired PCB, buttons, and joystick (LS-64).
P1NLQFl.jpg
IryW0pG.jpg
tsYeHvf.jpg


Original Post (outdated):
Intro

I know this thread/topic has come up numerous times in the past, but I have done my research into this to make sure this thread isn't anything close to a repost. The thread will be ordered into an easy to read manner, as well as important parts being bolded (if you want a tldr version) and my final question listed at the bottom.

This is a project I would love to start but there are physical limitations I don't know how to get around, which is why I'm creating this thread. In short, I want to create an arcade stick dedicated to playing Smash Bros which doesn't limit me to things normally available on a normal Gamecube controller. This means that a digital joystick is not a possibility.

Two main features I want included in the finished arcade stick are: an analog/49 way joystick and a "lock" button allowing the joystick to also be used as a c-stick.



Parts/Features

Joystick
Movement is done by an analog stick in Smash Bros (walk/run). So the joystick must be either analog or 49-way. Both sticks would serve the same purpose in what is needed to play. The picture below shows an example of how it works by throw distance (how far the stick is engaged).
Visual Illustration
mdmmUst.jpg

Different Deadzone Possibilities
Tight: Kqiq6VR.png Medium: CGxdgGx.png

Source:
http://web.archive.org/web/20120201184812/http://urebelscum.speedhost.com/49waySticks.html
Goes into great detail on how 49-way joysticks work.

I narrowed my choices down to 3 joysticks: [analog] the seimitsu ls-64 and ultramarc ultrastik 360; [49 way] happ 49-way joystick. My top choice is the seimitsu ls-64 but it apparently is extremely hard to purchase online now.

C-Stick
A feature I would really like to be included is the ability to use the joystick as the C-stick as well. Toodles has already made such a feature in his Cthulhu Multi Console PCB which is described in detail below.
Toodles wrote: »
5. Smash Bros. Advanced [hold Fierce and Roundhouse when plugging in.]..........'lock' button is for complex C-stick manuevers. It locks the analog stick where its at, and your stick will control the C-stick until you release the lock button. So, to do Peach's floating b-air, jump and hold up on your stick, hold the lock button, and move the stick to the left or right.

Source:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/1620359/#Comment_1620359





Problems

A requirement for this arcade stick, is for it to work on a Gamecube. Every console version of Smash Bros (besides Smash 64) will be playable since the Gamecube controller works on the Wii, and Wii U as well.

Joystick
One problem I have is the incompatibility of the joysticks themselves. The Ultramarc Ultrastik 360 only works on PC, and the Happ 49-way joystick was originally used in certain arcade games:
Global VR Madden Football, Midway NBA Showtime, Williams Blitz, Blitz 99 and Gauntlet
so I'm unsure if it's possible to be used. This leaves my first choice of available joysticks left, the Seimitsu LS-64. Like I said earlier, it's extremely hard to find being sold online. So if anybody is able to find one being sold, I'd love to be given a link.

PCB
My first choice was using Toodle's Cthulhu Multi-Console PCB (since it has a Smash Bros feature allowing use of the "lock" C-stick button), but this PCB doesn't allow analog input from the joystick, nor do the majority of fighting game multi-console PCB's either. A solution to this, would be Toodle's patching the Cthulhu PCB to allow analog input; but I'm not sure if this is possible. I will be emailing him (he hasn't logged on SRK in 2 years) shortly after making this thread asking him about this.

My second choice was padhacking a Gamecube PCB but using this option wouldn't allow me make use of the "lock" C-stick button. The C-stick is an important part of playing Smash Bros, so I wouldn't want to lose this feature. It would be possible for my to add 4 extra buttons mapped to the C-stick for each cardinal (up, down, left, right) direction; but I wouldn't enjoy this layout.



Final Thoughts and Questions

Smash is essentially a 4 button game. X/Y - Jump, L/R - Shield, A - Attack, and B - Shield.
Z is simply used as a shortcut of L/R + A so it isn't needed as a button, and the Dpad (Dpad Down would be mapped for character specific uses) is used as a taunt (which serves uses in competitive play).
ex: Kirby removing a character hat after inhaling an opponent; ex: Footstool (jump on top of somebody's head) which was a mechanic added in Brawl and Smash 4
I believe a 6 button layout (I prefer Vewlix) should be used, with the hand resting "KOF" style on the main 4 buttons, and the bottom 2 buttons being "Dpad" and "Lock". See the picture below.
Ignore the red scratch, I just removed the %'s I had written for the joystick's throw distances.
I2vBm3s.png

Ignore the different button layout, this picture just shows a possibility of extra buttons used for the C-stick if the "lock" button isn't a possibility.
CxCrzK8.png

What are your guys' thoughts on how I can get an analog joystick working? And/or how can I get the C-stick "lock" button working if I padhacked a Gamecube controller?



Why Make this?
This is Tech Talk where projects like these are seen as cool! I've always wanted to play Smash Bros on a stick, but due to the limitations of an arcade stick using digital parts; it's simply not viable. I want to get around this barrier since I actually believe an arcade stick (with an analog joystick of course) would be a superior way of playing the game over the standard Gamecube controller. The joystick allows a high amount of precision over your movement, tilts/smashes, and aerials compared to a Gamecube controller. The arcade buttons also make advanced techniques extremely easy (I played PC netplay on a digital arcade stick to test) compared to the un-ergonomic Gamecube controller (your hand has to move all over the Gamecube controller compared to resting in one spot on an arcade stick).

The "wow" factor of playing Smash Bros on an arcade stick is worth it alone to me, but I also want to open up the door for other people who want to play Smash Bros on a stick. Many people have been interested in doing this project but nobody has actually done it yet, I would like to lay the foundation and give directions for other people to follow.

Is this issue fixable? [crt screen]

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Please, i have a 29 Samsung crt with some distortion/warping from middle to right side which makes everything bigger on that side of the screen. The service menu has linearity options for vertical only.

DSC01588_zpsovi8tgyb.jpg

Official 'Kitty' class boards thread

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And let's get this started....

'Kitty' reffers to a new class of boards. The other boards I've made were made to be as usable in as many places as possible; Cthulhus, Imps, and FGW LED Controllers have been installed in all sorts of different sticks with great results. The Kitty boards represent a very different viewpoint. Instead of trying to make a single board that can be used in a wide variety of situations, these will be made to be installed in very specific sticks.

Goals:
1. Make installation as easy as possible in the specific Xbox360 arcade stick.
2. Make use of all of the features available in the stick as if the Kitty was part of the original design.
3. Add as much awesome as is physically possible.

As of this writing, boards and kits are ready to go for the first two products in the Kitty line: 'TE Kitty' and 'VLX Kitty'. These are made specifically for the MadCatz Tournament Edition FightSticks, and Hori VLX stick. I'm still in the middle of writing the normal documentation, but I welcome early adopters. Feel free to send a PM if you're willing to get your hands dirty with a new toy.

Most recent firmwares will always be available at these URLs:
VLX Kitty firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/vlxkitty.zip
TE Kitty firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/tekitty.zip

How to order:
Easiest way is through the Paypal checkout page I've setup:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html

(Multifunction Ultimate Killer machine) My New Mini-Arcade Cabinet Design

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Thank you guys for watching my lastest ultra mini-arcade cabinet designing. My very first post ever in SRK.
I am a PHD student in CU Boulder From China, a newbie in here but an old fighter, of course a miniac of Arcade Games since Street Fighter CE.
I start this plan in last December, and it was expected to be finished in about one month, but you know, Chinese New Year & all kinds of paper deadline just killed me, I just can post this until now.

Long story short, I just can not endure the all the other arcade cabinets with limited functionality and head-scratching installation any more, I bought one, but it's definitely not good, just several piece of wood and so many screw work, and most importantly, the appearance is not cool at all, so I need a real arcade cabinet which can satify all I need for the arcade games, that's why I planned this project. All the designing and building works of this arcade were done by me and my friend in China. The model and scale ratio refer to the Vewlix (Presented by Taito back in 2007, my favorite arcade cabinet model, and I love Sega's models such as G1 Astricity, G2 Blastcity and G3 Netcity etc. Street Fighter III The 3rd Strike used G2 model, classic game). I used the official size and did the math to calculate the ratio to scale down to a 14 inches monitor Compatible size. The fighting stick section is where to put into the computer mainboard so that it could become a real computer. Micro-ATX size 9.6'x9.6'. The screen board could be rotatable (adapt the STG games).

Model Name: VEWLX MAUS EDITION
At the beginning I called it "Elephant", and combined the name "Velixphant", sounds not that cool, then I changed it into "Maus", like "Mouse". Anyway, it doesn't really matter
LCD Screen: 14 inches, resolution 1366x768, LG/Samsung, performaces are close for different brands, can play new PC games, i.e. KOF13, USF4 etc.
Could be customizable, but the higher resolution would increase computer processing burden, which could be less cost-effective.
Stick & Buttons: Original SANWA (Best Peripheral manufacturers), PS2/3/4 & XB One USB Port, Native Support PC, XBO, PS1/2/3/4, and can be compatible with almost all the consoles through other converters/adapters.

Appearance & Size: 380cm x 350cm x 460cm (11.4'x 10.5'x 13.8')
Weight: About 25 kg, 55 lbs.
Interior: Can install Build-in HTPC OR connect to external PC & Consoles, TOTALLY CUSTOMIZABLE.
Build-in PC: Can build in computer inside it. AMD A3-7400 APU, matx FM2+ Mother Board (No WIFI, can use external USB WLAN Card), matx Power (250W), Memory slot x2, Hard Drive slots x2 (Would not recommend it because of the cramped space).
Other: 12 inches FANs x 2, LED Light x 1。

===============================================================================================================================================

We minimize the number of screws for the installation and mainly use bayonet structure, so the appearance is concise, and of course the installation process would no longer be the pain in the ass...

External View
Stylish Features: VX-Imitation edge modelling, mild and gentle coating appearance feels like the young girls' hips, Carriage Bolts and Non-slip Nuts completely follow Real Arcade Pro Standard, Buckle Structure makes Installation and Screen Rotation work SO EASY just like walking in the park...
Comparision between Real Machine photos and design drawing, we add a XB home button on the upper left corner.
10257944_209990542694823_2275261732757188051_o.jpg
10496180_209990546028156_9022511034257385808_o.jpg
12819213_209990539361490_5677493722408424652_o.jpg

Back IO Ports Close-up, including HDMI, VGA, 3.5 ,vga,3.5mm Audio, RGB, Power Jack and Switch, Start Button, and USB x2
980806_1678723225711489_4479051909210843968_o.jpg

Some PC Game Pictures
I imitate the VX, so it must be provided with the symbolic screen rotation feature...
12829427_1678727075711104_1544918112170211232_o.jpg

MAME Gaming
How can we ignore the sense of Arcade presence of MAME? At present we run it in Windows, will consider to put in a front-end software which can be directly manipulated by fighting stick. But Windows is good enough though, if the performace is enough for all the simulators. I prefer FTG, ACT and STG, don't have time to test all the games.
10496923_1678723332378145_3276500655778794538_o.jpg
10348795_1678723329044812_4005996353235035310_o.jpg

Slave Mode
That's totally fine if we get rid of all the computer components in it, then it can be used under Slave mode, everything will be almost the same. Just a little change-over work, i.e. HDMI, VGA, USB etc. are simple to understand, for atx power we need to jump two specific pins, then we can start it. Just remember first turn on the red power switch.
12829475_1678723362378142_5013590145181923178_o.jpg

We can treat Master Mode as a HTPC with a great Fighting Stick on it, and the Slave Mode could be considered as a Screen-Stick-Integrated universal Solution for Family Consoles.
I managed to work out all the video, audio and stick ports, so it can be connected to any consoles we can find in Market. But you know, the LCD Screens have their common problem when display the RGB signal (For the old consoles), but we can not ask for more, don't we? Here are some pictures of screen from xbox, 360, xbone, ps2/3/4, you name it.
There would not be any problems if you wanna play the newest STREET FIGHTER V if you connect it to a Powerful PC or PS4, online battle performs great with no doubt on this machine.
12795227_1678742229042922_1217758580216711097_o.jpg
10461889_1678723369044808_3401782467754310422_o.jpg
12794656_1678723359044809_8806942275116603891_o.jpg

PVP Mode
If you are smart enough, you would think that the other PCs could be considered as external host, then this Mini-arcade could be used in PVP mode with them with no doubt, right?
Fortunatly I made two mini arcade, then we can experience this Master-Slave sh*t
12593728_1678723405711471_4686939889024420600_o.jpg
We can try any position for our own Bad tastes, that's awesome.

Some playing video, can just use one hand.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=9-LNwZBRRr8
https://youtube.com/watch?v=DdfewYsnces
https://youtube.com/watch?v=euFodowVkzU

All right that's long enough, will update anytime it should, thanks for watching and enjoy!

Cimmission issue and refund!

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Hello srk,
i need your help in an issue and i dont know if it's the right place to talk about.
with a member we ve come to an agreement to create an art for his stick, a replica to be precise, he asked many changes and made a transfer after the 1st preview, been Laurent and agreed back and forward modifications, since he warned me that he will be going back and forward, after a couples days he turned the thing off and sad he no more wanna carry on, that i'm taking too long and and the result not the same he wanted after i did what he asked, and start telling me to refund if not he will make public, have no problem with that, but the way he acted and to threaten me made the whole thing complicated, witch leads me to ask him how much i should refund since he wasted my time. i have the log for the conversations.
any advice?

Brook XBOX One to PS4 super converter

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I recently purchased this device (from the title), I have updated the firmware (on a Mac laptop, didn't require me to connect the controller), when I plug the converter into the PS4, the blue LED's light up, however, when I plug in my Elite controller, it does not connect... I really struggle with the PS4 controllers... was super excited when I discovered this converter, but it has yet to work... PLEASE HELP ME!

The Sanwa and Seimitsu FAQ

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Okay, this has been a long time coming. A lot of people new and old to joystick building/modding have questions about Sanwa and Seimitsu parts. Maybe they?re just new to Japanese parts or new to specific parts from either of these companies. Either way this FAQ is intended to be the one-stop thread for answering these questions so that I don?t have to see new threads asking the same questions : ) Let?s get to it then!

Let?s start with the VERY basics and go with some terminology:

Companies:
Sanwa: The largest and most popular Japanese arcade parts manufacturer. Best known for their flagship JLF-TP-8Y joysticks and OBSF/OBSN buttons. You can download their latest catalogue here (courtesty of TheRealNeoGeo and Akihabara Shop):
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Sanwa0708.pdf
Seimitsu: The second largest and most popular Japanese arcade parts manufacturer. Best known for their LS-32/LS-32-01 joystick and their PS-14-G/PS-14-GN buttons. You can download their latest catalogue here (courtesy of TheRealNeoGeo):
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Seimitsu2007.pdf

I made a small Sanwa joystick movie today:
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/misc/AkihabaraSanwaJoysticks.mp4

And the old Seimitsu joystick movie is not so big as it used to be (from 120mb to about 65mb):
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/misc/AkihabaraSeimitsuJoysticks.mp4

Hope this helps a little to those who are having problem viewing them :).



Happ: The largest and most popular US arcade parts manufacturer. Best known for their Competition joystick and Competition buttons.

Joystick and Button Parts:
Microswitch: An electronic component found in both joysticks and buttons that when activated complete a circuit between the ground and signal connection.
PCB: An acronym for printed circuit board. Some joysticks have microswitches connected to a PCB and used pinned output instead of tabs or direct soldering to microswitches.
Mounting plate: Metal plate attached to the base of the joystick. This is mounted to the control panel with the use of screw or nuts and bolts.
Wire harness: A molex connector that is used on certain joystick PCBs. Sanwa manufactures JLF-H and Seimitsu manufactures H5-PIN.
Restrictor/gate: Device that restricts the movement of the joystick to a specific pattern or shape.
Square restrictor/gate: The standard for joysticks. This has corner/notches in the up-right, up-left, down-left, and down-right directions only. Being a square, the distance from the center of the gate to the corners is longer than the distance from the center to up, down, left, and right directions.
Octagon restrictor/gate: This has defined corner/notches in all 8 directions. Each notched direction is equidistant from the center. Sanwa's octagon restrictor for the JLF series is the GT-Y.
Circular restrictor: This has no defined notches making a perfect circle path. Every possible direction is equidistant from the center; however, this does not mean that the stick recognizes all possible directions. Sanwa's circular restrictor for the JLW series is the GT-0.
Snap-in push buttons: The most common type of buttons that secure to a control panel with tabs that ?grip? onto certain material thicknesses. Examples are the Sanwa OBSF and the Seimistu PS-14-G.
Screw-in push buttons: These types of buttons are threaded and are secured onto control panels with a threaded nut for a stronger more versatile hold. Examples are the Sanwa OBSN and Seimitsu PS-14-GN.

Electrical:
Ground: The common electrical signal that must be connected to a signal connection for a switch to activate.
Signal: The electrical signal specific to each input.
Quick disconnect: A terminal that is crimped onto the ends of wires. These terminals then plug onto the tabs on a microswitch.

Miscellaneous:
2-way: Movement that allows inputs of either left or right (also up or down).
4-way: Movement that allows inputs of up, down, left, or right. Many classic games like Pac-Man use 4-way joysticks. Many people equate 4-way movement with square gates, but this is INCORRECT as they are talking about two different principles/properties of joysticks.
8-way: Movement that allows inputs of up-right, up, up-left, left, down-left, down, down-right, right. Most modern games use 8-way joysticks. Many people equate 8-way movement with octagon gates, but this is INCORRECT as they are talking about two different principles/properties of joysticks.
Throw: A term used to describe the maximum distance/angle a joystick lever can be moved from the neutral position.
Engage: A term used to describe the distance a joystick lever must be moved before a switch is activated.
Deadzone: A term used to describe the area surrounding the neutral position where the joystick can be moved but not yet activate a switch. The maximum distance from the neutral position is obviously less than the engage.

** Focusattack.com fighting game store **

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Hey all,

Thought it was high time to formally introduce myself and my shop. I'm Jaleel, the owner of Focusattack.com and fellow Guile main (Akuma looks great as an avatar, though). Focusattack was started in 2009 with the intention of bringing all sorts sweet of fighting game merch to the community. It's grown to highlight the modding community, with joystick parts, custom accessories and other unique items. The shop also embraces unique items designed by players right in the community.

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So what's the deal? Why go to focusattack.com?
  • Competitive prices on joystick parts. Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks, buttons and balltops/battops. We may not have everything the big guys do, but we strive to offer the best prices on them, and the list keeps growing.
  • Order fulfillment is fast. We usually ship within 1-2 business days of your order, or sometimes within 24 hours!
  • Unique items from the community. Check our unique section "Made in the FGC" for a list of products made for players, by players!
  • Contests -- we often offer our products as great contest prizes for players around the world!
  • Worldwide shipping: We'll ship anywhere that USPS can deliver. We also ship to US forwarding mailboxes courtesy of BONGO.
  • Helpful, Quick Service - No one likes to wait...Have questions about your order? You can now contact fulfillment@focusattack.com. Any other questions? You can hit me up via email (service@focusattack.com), Twitter, Facebook or here on SRK with any questions. I'll personally respond within 24 hours.
  • Focusattack.com is giving to the tournaments you attend with prize sponsorships, adding to the winner's pot, and participating in other community related events. We do this more than most other arcade shops.
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Those are just some reasons to check out the site. :) You might know a friend or two on SRK that purchased from focusattack and have good things to say. If you have any questions, hit up any of the places I mentioned or post them here on this thread. I'll gladly answer them.

That's it for now. Remember that we always highly value you, the player, the joystick builder, and the joystick enthusiast. If you have any questions, drop me a line via SRK PM, Twitter, Facebook, or service@focusattack.com.

Take care.
Jaleel
Final Boss
Focusattack.com
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