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T.E.2+ Holding Left Input on D-Pad and Left Stick

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So I purchased a used for parts arcade stick off Ebay thinking I could fix it since it was indicated that the only problem was the Joystick. After spending some time investigating the issue I have not found a solid answer to my issue. Using proper drivers and having checked the joystick PCB and even the wiring from the PCB to the Joystick Is till can not get it to default to neutral. I've seen that there is a possibility that the USB cable itself could be having issues, but other than a random post on reddit have found nothing to back this up. Is there a fix for this I'm just not finding or do i just need to replace the control PCB it came with?
imgur.com/a/n57Y6

Project Black Box (fighting game console)

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Project Black Box is a diy device that uses UD-USB decoders, a raspberry pi 3, and Lakka for the operating system. The device will boot straight into a rom of your choosing and of course with the UD-USB decoders you will have controller support without any re-configuring. I have sent this device out to Sergjevski from Stadium Arkadeum for some testing, he was able to bring it to WNF and the device performed well. One of the upsides of a device like this is it will output to hdmi or rca so you will be able to play on a verity of monitors not to mention the controller support.

20170205_131545_zpsqi4eyuva.jpg
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I have written instructions for this device so anyone will be able to make their own.

Project Black Box
1. Download the Lakka image for the Raspberry Pi 3
2. The programs you will need are Win 32 Disk Imager, SD Formatter and Putty
3. Format SD card using SD Formatter
4. Write Lakka image to SD card using Win 32 Disk Imager
5. Install SD card in RPi and do initial boot
6. Connect RPi do WiFi using Lakka GUI (Graphical User Interface) (“x” is enter and “z” is back in the GUI)
7. Once connected to WiFi using a PC or Mac navigate to network find Lakka, Roms and add FBA folder, place Roms in folder. Using Lakka on the raspberry pi, GUI navigate to “scan directory” and scan the FBA folder
8. Using Putty on your PC, under host name type Lakka, login is “root” and password is “root”
9. To auto-start game , type “nano /storage/.config/autostart.sh”, hit enter, in next page type, “retroarch -L /tmp/cores/fbalpha_libretro.so /storage/roms/FBA/ssf2xj.zip” hold Ctrl and press “x” hit “Y”, then enter (the bold portion is where your specific rom file name goes)
10. Type “chmod a+x /storage/.config/autostart.sh”
11. Wire up the IPAC to the usb decoders, use the trackball 5v to power the decoders, add home as one of the extra buttons for each player
12. In Lakka on the raspberry pi, GUI navigate to inputs and map inputs accordingly for each player
13. Because we are using a keyboard encoder you will need to remap some of the Hotkeys, be sure to test and make sure everything is working
Change frame advance to 7
Change fast forward toggle to 8
Change fast forward hold to 3
Change fullscreen toggle to 4
Change quit retroarch to o
Change pause toggle to b
Change rewind to 9
14. While you are in Hotkeys change menu toggle to player 1 home key
15. Next you will need to cut some plexi to the size of the aluminum plates, layout all components in the box use the plexi to know where to mark the aluminum plates
16. Now that everything is laded out you can measure and cut the wires for the power button and power input, you will need to remove the micro usb input from the pi so it can rest right up against the back plate
17. Solder the wires to their corresponding positive and negative ends and to the power switchand to the pi GPIO pins
18. For the power button you will need a latching button, for the power input you will need 2.1x5.5mm connector socket PCB mount
19. The fan power and ground will connect to GPIO 4, 6
20. To power the pi we will connect the positive to GPIO 2 and negative to 14, you will need small DuPont connectors

NOTES
The box dimensions I used were, 8x6x2 with aluminum ends and it is made by Pac Tec
Use hot glue to attach everything to the inside of the case, be sure not to get hot glue on any of the components


For best video performance
Threaded Video, OFF
VSync, OFF
Max Swapchain images, 3
VSync Swap Interval, 1
Hard GPU Sync, ON
Hard GPU Sync Frames, 3
Frame Delay, 3
Leave everything else default

This has been tested and works with the oct 5 2016 version of lakka

I may do a video of the build process if that would help enough people. let me know if you have any questions.

Brook Converters Thread

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Hey Everyone,

Updating this post with all the confirmed working Controllers and PCBs that people have tested thus far from this discussion. If you would like to contribute please add your confirmed findings in the comments and I will update this post. Clearly state which model/color Brook adapter and the confirmed working controller manufacturer / model.

Manufacturers Website: http://www.brookaccessory.com/product/

My Reviews / Lag Test on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLIZO5l6xAWmH7XnBbMn157GJR8uFEoPGh

Official Firmware Updates:
http://www.brookaccessory.com/download

*General Compatibility - Most Officially Licensed Products should work with these converters as they are required to follow exact specifications from Sony / MS.

Sanwa JLF McDouble with Fries modification

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Some backstory...
Years ago, R-CADE Gaming made a ridiculous JLF modification that people seemed to dismiss because of how too much work it took. I kinda forgot about it too, until i ate a double patty burger today. (not from mcdonalds though, i got whataburger).

Using some ideas from his mod, I made my own, IMO its simpler, more solidly constructed, more stupid looking.
gives almost no throw, which has its pro's and cons. personally played on it for a few hours today and it has the general trappings of short throw, very small gate, the stiffer the better, so using a tighter spring will have its benefits, it favors softer micros with heavier springs, but experiment to your liking i guess.

tumblr_inline_nto546kD4K1qh9zno_1280.jpg

tumblr_inline_nto6igA2ii1qh9zno_500.jpgtumblr_inline_nto6ik9t7k1qh9zno_500.jpg
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tumblr_inline_nto6jqNVvK1qh9zno_500.jpgtumblr_inline_nto6lnvZZq1qh9zno_500.jpg
tumblr_inline_nto6mtkwpN1qh9zno_500.jpgtumblr_inline_nto6n6mCKB1qh9zno_500.jpg
tumblr_inline_nto6noDKCE1qh9zno_500.jpgtumblr_inline_nto6nwKMbx1qh9zno_500.jpg
tumblr_inline_nto6oaIMqT1qh9zno_500.jpgtumblr_inline_nto6ofAvoX1qh9zno_500.jpg

Notes and Concerns

- HORI Spring base and Actuator come from HORI “Fighting Stick” Line with the clone lever and short shaft (ex. Hori FS EX2, Hori FS V3, etc.)

- You dont have to remove the JLF inner gate, mine just broke.

- Now this part is something that I can see SRKTT go nuts and give me a lot of shit on, technically the gate are the microswitch body themselves hitting the (white) spring base. This also means the microswitches will take a bit more beating, try to use high quality microswitches like Cherry or Omron, in this example I used Panasonic microswitches from Seimitsu LS-32. It’s no different than the kind of abuse it gets from a junky HAPP stick, yeah? lol

Suggested Microswitches
- Cherry D44x 75gf - Very good, smooth feel.
- Omron V-15.. / Panasonic AM516… 200gf - Good, stiffer, very clicky feel.
- E-switch 50gf - Not bad, needs tougher spring.
- ZIPPY 25gf - Bad, very loose, not good return, needs tougher spring.

- For a heavier spring, a good option is the LS-38 or LS-55 spring. 2LB or 3LB JLF spring is good too, but should be stretched out.


I know there are actuators for this kinda thing. what this does is completely change the dynamics of the lever, but take advantage of the JLF's good points (smooth pivot, easy to mount).

I dont expect anyone to really try out this mod, I just happened to have some time/spare parts around. But it does give me insight on what kind of joystick/lever I wanna produce through 3D printing and machining in the future, whoops, hibachi joystick revealed.

Super Famicom Hori Fighting Stick

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Anyone know anything about it? What kind of parts its made from? I'm desperate for a top quality Wii arcade stick at this point because the Hori PS2 one are impossible to find and I don't care for the one available now.

Fixing New and broken TE2+ [Help needed]

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Guys, if anyone has had the same problem please I could really use some help.

Last weekend I got back from a trip to the US. I got a TE2+ from amazon.com and brought it back with me to Chile.

The thing is as soon as I connected it to the PS4 I noticed something was off. The buttons: X, square, triangle and R1 are not working. I reconnected it a few times but it didn't work.

I opened hood of the stick and reconnected the cables to the buttons, again nothing.
I moved the pin connector from the buttons and square, triangle and R1 worked when the connector got to some angle, but as soon as I released it, the stopped working again.

The X button never worked.

I seriously do not know what could be wrong, this is a brand new arcade stick.

If some of you got any idea please let me know.

I'll leave an image of the pin connector I was talking about earlier. Thanks a lot

postimg.org/image/w1cic9xa9/

Help me Fix my stick. we'll do it live!

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Hello everyone, I recently bought a Razer Atrox and it was working fine, suddenly though it appears as start and select buttons stopped working.
Before you ask: yes the lock switch is turned to unlocked, and I have also tried to lock and unlock it multiple times.
I'll start by posting a picture of the inside of the stick let me know if you see something wrong and if not where do I need to open (although I have half an idea I wanna be 100% sure)

http://imgur.com/a/3QNUC

3QNUC

edit: trying to post the image as an embed but I am getting errors, sorry

Moledcule: Kaimana Theme Builder, Compiler, Flasher... ...you design... ...we code!

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Updates
Reserved Post For Updates

Sunday, April 4, 2017
v1.0.6 kaimana restore bug

Sunday, March 12, 2017
v1.0.5 balltop fix

Wednesday, February 15, 2017
v1.0.3 now with balltop LED selector
this is my valentines day gift to you all :heart:

Friday, January 7, 2017
v1.0.2 Windows 10 Device Fix

Friday, January 6, 2017
v1 Fixed Windows Version for Device

Wednesday, December 1, 2016
v0.9.9 Changed apps window bounds

Friday, November 25, 2016
v0.9.8 Patched Cross Color Fading (throw, focus, taunt)

Wednesday, November 23, 2016
v0.9.7 Minor bug fix (LED miscount on menu buttons)

Tuesday, November 22, 2016
v0.9.4 Added layouts for neopixel ring
v0.9.5 Hot patch (facebook bug fix)
v0.9.6 Hot patch (profile bug fix)

Monday, November 21, 2016
v0.9.3 Hot patch (minor bug fix)

Sunday, November 20, 2016
v0.9.2 Hot patch of app release in Chrome App Store
thank you testers

Saturday, November 19, 2016
v0.9.1 first wide release


Update Chrome App

Need a Modder/Builder in Your Area? Check This Post.

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So I was reading the Think Aloud, and people were talking about how to inform people of their services. Not to mention you always see threads of "I need a modder" posted here and there. I figured a really easy way would be a thread for people to look at a quick glance and to see what modders are in their state.

Not everyone likes the idea of shipping their stick across the country to have some guy tinker with it, so why not deal with some one you can shake hands with?

So, take a look at the list. If they are in your state, click on their name and it will take you to their post where they also list their modding knowledge.

I am in no way liable if a modder can not preform the service he/she offers. This is simply a list for people to find who is close to them saying they(the modder) can do the work.

If you would like to be added, respond with your State/Providence/Territory/etc. (Please, if outside of the US, include your country), County/Town, and your modding abilities. A link to your trading thread with feedback would also be beneficial. (If you have one.)

With this stated! If you are a modder with out feedback, start up a thread for your services. Then have SRK members post and give you feedback after doing work for them. This will help foster a community of trusted modders that people can turn to in any area if they need help.

(I do not include myself in this list, because I do not find the time to mod sticks for others. However, if your stick has been modded but isn't working, I am solid at troubleshooting. I reside in South Jersey, Camden County.)

Any feedback would be great, so let me have it. :china:

USA
  • Alabama
  • Alaska
  • Arizona
FrankCastleAZ - Phoenix
souji5 - West Phoenix
  • Arkansas
  • California
RoyalFlushTZ - Canyon Country/Los Angeles County
|Galen| - Inland Empire
Ouroborus - San Francisco
BartStation - San Francisco/Peninsula
DanAdamKOF - Sunnyvale
jjordona - Vacaville
jdm714 - Westminster/Orange County
  • Colorado
  • Connecticut
  • Delaware
  • Florida
CanadianDstryr - Central FL (Near Orlando) Hiatus
  • Georgia
  • Hawaii
  • Idaho
  • Illinois
  • Indiana
  • Iowa
Dracula X - Des Moines
  • Kansas
  • Kentucky
  • Louisiana
  • Maine
  • Maryland
Darksakul -Reisterstown
spenzalii - Washington DC
  • Massachusetts
blueNINE - Amherst
@JRDIBBs - Quincy
  • Michigan
  • Minnesota
  • Mississippi
  • Missouri
  • Montana
  • Nebraska
  • Nevada
Vicko - Las Vegas
  • New Hampshire
  • New Hampshire
  • New Jersey
AlbinoD90 - Somerset
  • New Mexico
  • New York
hakdizzle - New York City - Brooklyn
networkingyuppy - New York City
  • North Carolina
  • North Dakota
  • Ohio
  • Oklahoma
  • Oregon
  • Pennsylvania
PaperTigre - Philadelphia/Glenside
  • Puerto Rico
  • Rhode Island
  • South Carolina
  • South Dakota
  • Tennessee
  • Texas
Half-Ro - Irving
  • Utah
Lemony Vengeance - Salt Lake City/Provo Area
  • Vermont
  • Virginia
Strogg - Reston
Gummo - Virginia Beach
  • Virgin Islands
  • Washington
  • West Virginia
  • Wisconsin
DaRabidDuckie - La Crosse
  • Wyoming
Canada
  • Alberta
  • British Columbia
  • Ontario
  • Quebec
FreedomGundam - Montreal

France

Hitbox controller, what buttons to use?

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Hi there,

*What are the best buttons to use on a fightstick for someone who rests their fingers on the keys?

I'm new to fighting games and a couple months back now I bought a hitbox. I liked fighting games so much that I decided to go in on a controller and coming from a PC gaming background I decided on the Hitbox controller being the most comfortable for me to use.

However, because of this, I have run into some problems. I treat the Hitbox like I would a keyboard, resting my fingers on the keyboards/buttons.
With how hyper-sensitive the buttons on the Hitbox I often find myself pressing a button at the wrong time. For example, when trying to do a DP motion I sometimes find that I am getting "F, D, punch, D-F" instead of "F, D, D_F, punch".

This isn't a problem in training mode, but in a game when I am trying to do the motion as quick as possible it happens a lot more than I would like it to.

Now I could try and retrain myself to not rest my fingers on the keys, but I found that is the most comfortable position for me.

With that being said I am looking to see if anyone can recommend a button that would suit someone rests their fingers on the keys, most likely a button that requires my force to active? Should I keep the movement buttons super sensitive and only change the action buttons.

Thoughts and opinions are welcomed, especially if you have had a similar problem.


MvC2 pcsx2 settings help

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Hello, I just downloaded pcsx2 with MvC2 on my laptop, and so far I have no problems with the game, it goes at 60fps with no problem with all settings down.
However, I don't like the look of the game with the native resolution on, it looks blurry and jagged, the screen moves and looks quite bad, and when I change it to x2, the game slows down to 60% sometimes during gameplay.
Is there a better way to optimize the game without having that ugly native resolution?.

I also saw that I can emulate MvC2 on dreamcast through nullDC. Does nullDC takes less memory for the games? Is it better and has a nice resolution?. Idc at all about the version, I know dreamcast is more faithful but meh.

I have 4gb ram
Windows 7 professional
And a intel core i5-3320M 2.60ghz

I know it's not a big pc. Just want to know the best settings to have it at full 60fps and a better resolution.

hood stopped locking shut on madcatz te2

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the locking mechanism wore out and no longer shuts. it is quite annoying to have the hood moving around while i'm using the stick. anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?

tekken 7 te2+

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today i saw two new additions to the te2+ range that have tekken 7 artwork with the namco noir layout one with white sides and one with red which i will admit did look very nice but tgeres one thing thats bugging me why are madcatz still neglecting the xbox one people i know street fighter v is ps4 exclusive but most of the new fighting games and a lot of the older games from 360 era are now running on it come on madcatz sort your selve out and when are they gunna put customisable sides and bezels available to uk
Mad Catz Tekken 7 FightStick TE2+ for PS4 and PS3
http://www.madcatz.com/fightsticks/tekken7.php

Bricked Qanba Obsidian

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I finally received my highly anticipated Qanba Obsidian today. Much to my dismay, I seem to have a faulty PCB (and I've already popped it open and voided the warranty).

For those who may be curious, the stick can't register Down or Right inputs. Whenever you press down or right it always registers Down-Right. I swapped out the harness and joystiq, and tested on a friend's PS4 with no luck.

So that leaves me with a nice fresh case, stick and buttons, but I can't really use it to play anything. I'm curious as to what some of you who are more stick savvy than myself would do with it. Maybe swap out the PCB for a Brooks universal board?

Madcatz TE2+ Fighting Stick Hard Reset?

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Hi guys. Do you know if there's a way to "hard reset" a fighting stick? For some reasons, every time I plug in my stick (PC or PS4), it defaults itself to "RS". It appears that the button is broken.. sometimes when I'm really lucky and mash the button (1/1000), I'm able to switch it back to LS, but as soon as I unplug the stick, it back to RS. Even if I lock the buttons, it just resets back to RS :(

Is there a way to "save the config" or completely hard reset the stick?

te2plus.jpg

PS4 Touchpad Button?

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Greetings everybody, I really hope that somebody can help me.

In a few days from now I will finally get a new Arcade Stick to modd, and I want to padhack a DS4 into it. I know that that will be a pain in the ass to do but I have a few spare DS4s to screw up ^^"

Soooo, my only problem now, is that i need/want to put an button into the Stick that uses the the "push" of the touchpad, i dont need the touchpad itself, but i would like to still be able to access the menu in games like Shantae, ect.

Has anyone tried something similar or an idea how to solder that?

Thanks in advance for any advice and sorry if my english isn't the best ^^"

The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

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Recently announced Razer Arcade stick looks sleek but it seems to be only on the xbox. Also it doesn't look like it uses quick disconnects that we're used to, But a different kind that has both connectors in 1.
more info at their site, Don't forget to sign up for their beta Program!
Link: http://www.razerzone.com/bredtofight

EDIT:
List of suggestions:
Mandatory
Different Quick Connects for the buttons and stick
Common Ground PCB
Move the insides to the Bottom of the Stick
Move The Latch that Opens the stick
Make the height inside the stick taller so it can have parts that aren't japanese

Minor
Button Layout
Include Button Plugs

Anyone run MAME on a Raspberry Pi 3?

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Curious how well the new Pi 3 (I think there's a new "B" revision out?) can handle accurate MAME emulation, namely CPS1/2 and Neo Geo shiz. Anyone running this?

What's the difference between the TES and TES+?

I took my Madcatz TE Round 1 and rebuilt it for my kids.

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Long time lurker, first time poster.

My son and daughter (3 and 1.5) both like Street Fighter and fighting games in general cuz their old man plays it. I wanted to build them a joystick that is nearly indestructible, and the Madcatz TE line was that. Problem was that the wife does not normally approve of such expenditures.

C'mon woman! Let a man have a hobby!

Then Madcatz went out of business. I knew it was now or never if I wanted to buy parts for it, so I bought them as quickly as possible. This is the result:

5R74KI9.jpg

Since this is (was?) my joystick, it is actually powered by a Brook Universal Fighting Board. It will remain in there till I build my new personal stick and will be replaced by a much simpler board. I've personally used them in an arcade machine build that I did for my office and they work fantastically for PC gaming, which is all we do in my house. All the parts are Sanwa. The new plastic parts are all Madcatz, get them while they are still available on amazon. There is a custom 3lb spring from Paradise Arcade (I got some big, meaty hands that knock the stick around). It will be downgraded to a 2lb spring or stock once I build my new one.

My next stick will either use an IST Make a Stick Pro, or a Foehammer Stealth. Considering I got questioned on the cost of everything by the powers (the wife, despite it being practically free with all the bonus points I stored up on my Amazon card for the Madcatz parts and chips from focus attack), it will probably end up being the IST.

Anyways, thanks for listening to my tale of being whipped, and finding an excuse to make a new joystick. Comments are appreciated. :)
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