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Paradise Arcade Joystick Project Magenta

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I hope everyone had a great holiday season, we enjoyed seeing a lot of new and old faces. As some of you may have noticed, I have taken a large step back from the day to day company activities and my wife Susan has taken over the lion share of those details... I am happy to announce one of 4 projects that will explain why(aside from being an overworked medical resident)

We are happy to announce our latest project which still needs a name but has been going under the project name of Magenta (Patent Pending). We have finished the proof of concept with rough prototypes, and now are polishing up our designs to get some production prototypes produced!
Just when you thought everything that could be done with joysticks was done, we thought we'd try to take you one step further. There are countless tutorials and online posts about how to mod your joystick to make it the ultimate fighting stick: reduce throw, reduce resistance, swap micros, increase stiffness, etc etc.... the list goes on and on. And yes electrical tape works great, but isn't there a better way?

So most sticks work with relatively even distributions of action and create a map that looks like this:
Joys%252520Regular.jpg

A central neutral zone, with movement in your cardinal and secondary directions surrounding it... but let's say you want to play a game that focuses on cardinal directions, not entirely but it's the focus, wouldn't you want a map that looked more like this:
Joys%252520mod2.jpg

Or let's say you are playing a game where you need to do quick combos and want to reduce the throw to do some impressive upper cuts, you might want a pattern like this:
Joys%252520mod.jpg

Enter the Paradise Magenta, a noncontact analog joystick that plugs into the standard JLF connection (it just needs an 5V supply) and can be programmed to any custom radial mapping you want. Modifications are done through a very simple usb connection and custom software.

Want an incredibly sensitive joystick? reduce the central neutral circle so if you breath on the stick it reacts. Quick combo sweeps, use the patterns above. Early prototypes are on a JLF base but can also easily be used on almost any joystick (with some limitations on total throw distance) The system will allow you to keep your existing micro switches on the stick or remove them entirely for silent operation.

Anticipated release date is April 1(no that's not a joke) and we expect some production quality prototypes for testing in late Feb and will take pictures as soon as we get the next round of prototype parts in an assembled. (round one is not so photogenic...)

Just imagine a joystick like the Flash, where you can completely modify the way the stick reacts to suit the game and playing style you have. We expect a customized set of gates to follow soon after the first release.... The response to the players we've talked to so far has been great, so I thought I would announce to see if any last minute ideas could be incorporated as we move forward. We are also looking for a new name.

Project Magenta 2017

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Instead of reviving an old thread, I'm just starting new one, and the Magenta (at least the pre molded gate one) is here....

Some of the comments from Evo:
This joystick is my dream
This is a game changer
I have been telling everyone about this - Mr Wizard, our first install/customer
This is some amazing shit
I went from hitting 1 out of 4 times to hitting that move almost every time

The feedback was extremely positive, with one single detractor, "People want clicks though", to which I said, "We can leave the micros" @Toodles

This was a project we announced 5 years ago and has come to fruition through some blood, sweat and tears.

Magenta is an analog joystick that takes an analog field and maps it to digital outputs. In other words, this takes something like this:
20229357_1572107589516789_5203059030728703684_n.jpg?oh=5a5a2cf4a5570eaba1d69110fbd1ed06&oe=59FB777C

And makes it communicate with your stick like 4 microswitches...

So what does this mean, it means you can change how the stick behaves with different positions and tweak to your play:
1) Each direction can have independent slider control to determine sensitivity
2) You can change the relationship or the cardinals and diagonals
3) you can rotate the map to correct for a slight hook or slice
4) 4 different modes are stored so you can easily switch between games

The plan is to launch this fall, but I wanted to open a thread for discussion and to say I'm really glad to be back on TT more!
Quick FAQ that will be elaborated on:
1) You program by mini usb directly to your computer
2) Security in place to prevent tampering
3) Installed just like an optical, and does require a 5v power source
4) Has been declared tournament legal!!!!

Pictures from Evo:
20108223_1570372666356948_2174995907935564573_n.jpg?oh=648500e38da4d6b046431e91549dedec&oe=59C7D44A
19990591_1570372716356943_2476784958869525712_n.jpg?oh=b69acdb70d1893b99fe8709c3945c50e&oe=5A0EEF52

HRAP 4 Periodically/completely stops working PS4

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I am currently heartbroken. I had this stick for about two years, it had issues at the beginning but it worked fine afterwards. Now when i play the touch pad doesn't work ingame, it starts to drop inputs before it stops working completely. I have to unplug and plug it back for it to eventually do it all over again. Is there anything I can do? I have not spilled or damaged it in anyway. I contacted Hori about a week ago and no response.

If it helps I had this issue when i first had it, but remedied it by switching to player 2 USB slot on PS4. I made the third back when I first bought it on here
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/201225/hori-real-arcade-pro-4-disconnect-issue

Changing slots does not fix it and it does it on any PS4 I connect to now. Please Help!

Hit Box - We so S Tier1!!

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Welcome to the Hit Box community!

[media=youtube]dGU1d-cmtuQ[/media]
http://www.hitboxarcade.com
http://www.youtube.com/hitboxes


FAQ
1. What is the Hit Box?

The Hit Box all-button controller, AKA the "Stickless Stick," is a game controller specifically designed for fighting games. We replaced the joystick with directional buttons that are controlled by your fingers.

2. Why buttons?

By using 4 directional buttons controlled by 4 fingers, you gain:

- Increased input speed
- Consistent inputs yield fewer mistakes
- Exclusive control over your movement
- No travel time inputting directions
- Button techniques apply to movement and special inputs (plinking, piano, double tap, slide)
- Game-specific features such as SSFIV input shortcuts (such as walking dragon punches)
- No unintentional inputs such as accidental jumps
- No arm/wrist motion
- Stays put in your lap



3. Are those smaller buttons than normal?

Yes. We use 24mm Sanwa pushbuttons with exception to the 'Up' button, which is 30mm. They are highly sensitive buttons and work perfectly. 24 mm buttons are able to be brought closer together and fit the natural curve of the human hand. When the button spread is closer together, players find all buttons directly at their finger tips with no hand-hovering.

4. Can I still execute throws and focus attacks on this smaller layout?

Yes.

5. What about plinking and double tapping my combo links?

Of course.

6. Why have a shared jump button for your thumbs?

It is larger than the other buttons so both thumbs can access "Up" depending on player preference. By utilizing this, you can perform advanced "joystick" motions easily. Tri-jumps and Tiger Knee inputs are much faster and more accurate. It also makes many Just-Frame inputs incredibly easy.

8. Who is this for? Do I need keyboard experience?

While it appears to share the most common ground with a keyboard, Hit Box is a balance between Joystick, Pad, and Keyboard together. You dont need background in any controller to appreciate the Hit Box: Anyone can use it!

9. Can I still do everything I can do on my joystick?

Everything and more.

10. What about Hadokens and Dragon Punches and SPDs?

Yes. Quickly and accurately.

11. What about "______'s ________ combo"?

Yes.

12. Is there a learning curve?

The learning curve is creating fast, new memory in your fingers. It doesn't take long. This also gets rid of old bad habits too!

13. Are these for advanced players only?

No! The benefits of these boxes can be appreciated by everyone from the beginning player to the most advanced tournament player. The whole purpose of the Hit Box is to aide your fundamentals and build your foundation so that you can focus on what actually matters in a match: your opponent.

14. What happens when you hold the Left and Right buttons together?

Left + Right = Neutral. Your character will stand still. No charging or blocking occurs.

15. Can I hold Left and Right to block cross ups?

No. Left + Right = Neutral; you will get hit in the face.

18. Can I walk forward and charge a sonic boom?

No.

19. Can I hold Back and perform shoryuken motions?

No. Left + Right = Neutral.

20. Is "Left + Right = Neutral" useless?

No! Left + Right is the basis for many advanced techniques that will make your life easier! You get access to 3-frame dashes, 1-button FADCs, rapid dragon punches, new option selects, safe and easy Korean backdash cancelling, and much more! Left + Right will help your execution significantly. Check out all of the tech in our video section!

Combo Videos
How to Hit Box Tutorials

Interactive Learning Tools


N_Close_2_1024x1024.jpg?28


Interested in getting your Hit Box modded? Vickomods located nearby Hit Box HQ and offers his services for your Hit Box modding needs. Check him out at vickomods.com!!!
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Broken Paewang PCB on Etokki Omni?

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Hey guys I was wondering if anyone else ever dealt with a Paewang pcb that isn't recognized by PC (let alone anything :p)?

My Omni just stopped working on by my PC lately, and all I get is the "USB device not recognized" popup... Also, I've tested it on multiple PCs so at this point should I just accept that my pcb is dead?

Thanks in advance! :(

Venom arcade stick PS4/PS3

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Hi guys!
do you have heard anything about the Venom PS4 arcade stick? I take a look at the description and photos(since it´s the only thing we got) and it looks like the mayflash V2, the case looks the same used on the mayflash v2.
Since the descrition says it has premium quality parts (I dont know what they call premium quality parts) I assume it comes with sanwa or seimitsu parts. The color of the buttons and balltop looks navy, so maybe it has the PS-15 navy(I dont believe but it´s the only quality buttons I know with that color). The price is 75€($86), a nice chance to get a PS4 stick. It looks nice btw, here is some photos:

510vrHSsA9L._SL1000_.jpg
51n%2BjTsrADL._SL1000_.jpg
61%2BUA4cxMtL._SL1000_.jpg

I was looking on the net and I found other PS4 stick with the same name but different in all aspects, looks a kind of cheap one, here is it:

Joypad-Sony-Arcade-Stick-Sony-PS4-Zubehoer.png






Pokken Hori Pro Pad...Want to add LED's

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Can anyone help out? I am trying to add led lighting to a Pokken hori pad to sort of mimic the arcade controller. Would it be a difficult task? Can it be done?

Thanks in advance.

mayflash v2 or f300

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which is better they are both the same price on amazon i was told the v2 was the best of the mayflash sticks has anyone here used both that could easily compare differences?

sony ds2 pads

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do they make different versions of the ds2? i swear some are alot different. my first was amazing, the d pad was so smooth. then i buy a new one, and its incredibly stiff. i think obviously needs to be broken in, but years later it still stiff. i then order a few online. i bought 4, and only 1 of the 4 had a smooth surface d pad like my original from 2001

Inserting a new ground daisy chain into harness

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Im very new to this but I am currently building a stick for myself and Ive gotten the body together but Im having an issue with the wiring. I bought the IST preinstalled Brook PS3/PS4 PCB kit from focusattack. The ground daisy chain didnt have enough connections on it for all the buttons I have. I have a new daisy chain and cant figure out how to remove the old and insert the new chain into the harness.

Thanks for your help in advance

Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more

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logo.jpg
We have been floating around for a little while posting and received a recommendation to start a thread. Paradise Arcade Shop is based in Hawaii, working to bring a variety of controls to the arcade and fight stick market. We carry a number of different options for price points in both sticks and buttons, but we only sell products that we would use. That means, there is a difference between a Porsche and a Toyota, we see a place for both of those in the market, and we won't sell Toyota's at Porsche prices.

I say "we" as Ponyboy likes to harass me about, because the company is my wife and I. For those of you who have ordered already(thank you) she packs the orders and answers about 90% of the emails (mostly logisitics, but she is answering the "How to I light an LED" questions now) This is also her full time job and my part time job. She works hard to send out all stock items in 1-2 days, and rides my ass about the cutsom builds so they stay close to 1-3 days(We build LED sticks to order, and some of our game systems)

I have been an active membe of KLOV, Coinopspace, and BYOAC for sometime, and we sell on EBAY and Amazon. I will probably edit the intro down in the future, but I wanted just let people know who "we" are and who I am. Thank you for all the support and orders we already have received and now...it's time for the good stuff!

Mortal Kombat 9 Stick mod products!!!!! If you want new controls with the same forms to just upgrade your stick try some of these IL products and microswitch upgrades.

Translucent Concave IL buttons - A great upgrade to your stick, especially with...

IL-lumination LED pads - Available in RGB or single color
[media=youtube]P7zdGGsF2oI[/media]

IL Eurosticks provide "Happ Competition" Style with an upgrade in quality

And, for amazing light touch, upgrade any Happ or IL button to our 20 gram micros (Please note that these are 20 gram max spec and really are closer to 15 grams of actuation force)

We also carry JLF's, JLW's, LS-32, LS-32-01, LS-40, PS-14-KN pushbuttons, re-released PS-14-K Skeleton buttons, Paradise LED sticks, custom ball tops and a variety of hollow shafts(we also have 10 new custom hollow shafts on order, need a long JLF shaft or want to put a ball top on a Eurostick joystick?)

Finally... we have two new ball tops in, Pearls and Emerald Green that will be available shortly and were built to match the Rollie Buttons.
IMG_6424.JPG
And the answer is "Yes, the pearl will light up."
IMG_6432.JPG

https://www.click2trial.com/maleonyx/

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Maleonyx - Testosterone is regularly found in the body beginning around the time that somebody experiences pubescence, and this implantation of hormones is the reason that many individuals can enhance muscle tone and their moxie. The hormone is likewise in charge of the digestion and different ranges of a man's wellbeing.

Maleonyx ->>>> https://www.click2trial.com/maleonyx/

Custom stickless arcade stick build question

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Hey guys, I'd like to build my own arcade hitbox because ordering one is a no go... the high shipping costs and customs fees are insane in my country (EU region) and I feel that I might be able to do this project myself. Now, having already built a fightstick before I have some spare 30mm pushbuttons lying around and I figure I use them instead of 24mm ones that are used in standard hitbox layout. My question is would 30mm be ergonomic and comfortable for use compared to 24mm ones? Please advise

Dual Shock 4 PadHack Thread - aka you should padhack the hfc4 pad instead.

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UPDATE: Just padhack a hori fighting commander 4 instead.


So you want to add PS4 functionality to your arcade stick? Well too bad. Just wait until there is a third party pcb that is cheap and easy to wire up. Maybe we'll get lucky and there will be a firmware update to any of the
custom ps3 pcb's that are out in the market. Oh, you don't want to wait? You really want it now? Well the only option right now is to padhack a Dual Shock 4 controller. Luckily for us the pcb is common ground. Unluckily for us
the pcb is a pain in the ass to wire up and is quite unforgiving if you mess up. You thought the Xbox One pad hack was hard? This pad hack shits all over it. You accidentally burn off or rip off a contact pad on the ds4 and
you've just wasted $60. The only option after that is to find a via that traces to the contact pad that you've just destroyed. They are not easy to find nor solder to.

So if you think you have the skills or are looking for a challenge you have been warned. Don't hold me responsible if you damage your DS4.

With that being said, let the padhack begin! We will start out with preparing the ds4 pcb.

To begin opening up the DS4 you must unscrew the four screws on the back of the pad.
IMG_0336_zps442ab332.jpg

You'll need to use a size #0, #00, or #000 Phillips head screwdriver. If you don't own one then I suggest buying a Husky precision screwdriver set.
IMG_0337_zps65fe8af9.jpg

You'll need to use a little force to pull apart the shell, but don't pull the shells too far apart too fast. There is a ribbon cable connecting the usb jack to the ds4 pcb. Pull the ribbon cable out first. Then unplug the

lithium ion battery pack. Then cut off the rumble motor wires.
IMG_0338_zps823d7882.jpg

Circled is one more screw that holds the pcb to the shell.
IMG_0339_zpsced0a56e.jpg

Be careful as you lift the pcb out. There is still one more ribbon cable left that needs to be unplugged. It might be a bit difficult to unplug with your finger so using tweezers or forceps will make things easier.
IMG_0340_zpsde1f7a4d.jpg

If you have very tight space limitations inside your case you'll probably will want to desolder the analog jacks and neutralize the axis with 10k ohm resistors. However, for most applications just cutting the stubs and gluing
the stick in place will suffice.
IMG_0341_zpsb1f0d7c5.jpg

If you want to use the micro usb jack, and I suggest you do, then you'll need to unscrew four screws that hold it in place. The top two have to be removed first. Then the led light thingy can be removed to gain access to the
bottom two screws.
IMG_0342_zps8f1dea6e.jpg

Remove and set aside the micro usb jack.
IMG_0343_zpsf0d6dec8.jpg

This is where you'll be wiring up the joystick and buttons to. Looks fun doesn't it?
IMG_0345_zps3e268abe.jpg

To gain access to the copper contact pads the carbon residue has to be scraped off.
IMG_0346_zpse7c0faea.jpg

I have a pick set that I got from radio shack that I use to scrape off the carbon pads. The one on the left I accidentally broke in half from trying to pry something off. I suggest not using these picks to pry stuff off.
IMG_0348_zpsb592d658.jpg

Here's the pinout for the 18 contact pads and which need to be scraped. It is the same for all the model revisions 001, 011, and 020.
1-(Don't worry about me)
2-L1 (needs inverting)
3-10k ohm to pad4
4-L2
5-right
6-up
7-left
8-down
9-ground (Don't worry about scraping me either)
10-home
11-x
12-circle
13-triangle
14-square
15-(Don't worry about me too)
16-R1 (needs inverting)
17-10k ohm to pad18
18-R2
IMG_0349_zps2f5337b0.jpg

Tin the contact pads. Use flux as necessary.
IMG_0350_zps46ac45f6.jpg

Tin the two very small contact spots in the rectangle for Select.
IMG_0351_zps5e8432e9.jpg

Tin the two very small contact spots in the rectangle for Start.
IMG_0352_zps4cd67d9f.jpg

Look at this. This is the ribbon connector for the usb jack. See how simple this is? Want to see how hard your life will be if you don't use this? Just check out the next picture.
IMG_0354_zps133a474f.jpg

These are the four pins you will have to solder to if you don't want to use the micro usb jack. Pretty small and cramped there.
Note this pin out is for the JDM-001 model and the pictures will reference to that model.
8- Vcc
10- D-
12- D+
14- GND

Pin out for the 011 and 020:
7- Vcc
8- Vcc
9- Gnd
10- D-
11- D+
12- Gnd

IMG_0353_zpsdb05b9bc.jpg

Of coarse removing the ribbon connector will make soldering to the contact pads much easier. This route might be necessary if you are limited in case space. In which case you'd have to remove the battery jack too.
IMG_0355_zps79565b7c.jpg


Now the DS4 pcb is all prepared to begin the wiring!

Need a Modder/Builder in Your Area? Check This Post.

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So I was reading the Think Aloud, and people were talking about how to inform people of their services. Not to mention you always see threads of "I need a modder" posted here and there. I figured a really easy way would be a thread for people to look at a quick glance and to see what modders are in their state.

Not everyone likes the idea of shipping their stick across the country to have some guy tinker with it, so why not deal with some one you can shake hands with?

So, take a look at the list. If they are in your state, click on their name and it will take you to their post where they also list their modding knowledge.

I am in no way liable if a modder can not preform the service he/she offers. This is simply a list for people to find who is close to them saying they(the modder) can do the work.

If you would like to be added, respond with your State/Providence/Territory/etc. (Please, if outside of the US, include your country), County/Town, and your modding abilities. A link to your trading thread with feedback would also be beneficial. (If you have one.)

With this stated! If you are a modder with out feedback, start up a thread for your services. Then have SRK members post and give you feedback after doing work for them. This will help foster a community of trusted modders that people can turn to in any area if they need help.

(I do not include myself in this list, because I do not find the time to mod sticks for others. However, if your stick has been modded but isn't working, I am solid at troubleshooting. I reside in South Jersey, Camden County.)

Any feedback would be great, so let me have it. :china:

USA
  • Alabama
  • Alaska
  • Arizona
FrankCastleAZ - Phoenix
souji5 - West Phoenix
  • Arkansas
  • California
RoyalFlushTZ - Canyon Country/Los Angeles County
|Galen| - Inland Empire
Ouroborus - San Francisco
BartStation - San Francisco/Peninsula
DanAdamKOF - Sunnyvale
jjordona - Vacaville
jdm714 - Westminster/Orange County
  • Colorado
  • Connecticut
  • Delaware
  • Florida
CanadianDstryr - Central FL (Near Orlando) Hiatus
  • Georgia
  • Hawaii
  • Idaho
  • Illinois
  • Indiana
  • Iowa
Dracula X - Des Moines
  • Kansas
  • Kentucky
  • Louisiana
  • Maine
  • Maryland
Darksakul -Reisterstown
spenzalii - Washington DC
  • Massachusetts
blueNINE - Amherst
@JRDIBBs - Quincy
  • Michigan
  • Minnesota
  • Mississippi
  • Missouri
  • Montana
  • Nebraska
  • Nevada
Vicko - Las Vegas
  • New Hampshire
  • New Hampshire
  • New Jersey
AlbinoD90 - Somerset
  • New Mexico
  • New York
hakdizzle - New York City - Brooklyn
networkingyuppy - New York City
  • North Carolina
  • North Dakota
  • Ohio
  • Oklahoma
  • Oregon
  • Pennsylvania
PaperTigre - Philadelphia/Glenside
  • Puerto Rico
  • Rhode Island
  • South Carolina
  • South Dakota
  • Tennessee
  • Texas
Half-Ro - Irving
  • Utah
Lemony Vengeance - Salt Lake City/Provo Area
  • Vermont
  • Virginia
Strogg - Reston
Gummo - Virginia Beach
  • Virgin Islands
  • Washington
  • West Virginia
  • Wisconsin
DaRabidDuckie - La Crosse
  • Wyoming
Canada
  • Alberta
  • British Columbia
  • Ontario
  • Quebec
FreedomGundam - Montreal

France

ZD Arcade Control Encoder And ZD ReMatch (PS3/PS2/PC) (The most cost efficient PCBs to date!)

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I don't know if this is well known or not but i didnt see any threads mentioning this so ill just post everything here.
[copypasta]
Zero Delay Arcade Control Encoder
ZeroDelayEncoderBoardRev2.jpg
The Zero delay is the most cost effective encoder option available. It is plug and play, lag free and very compact. (8.5 cm X 3.5 cm X 1 cm)
The Zero Delay board comes with:
  • USB Cable
  • 4 Wire sets for joystick.
  • 8 Wire sets for 8 buttons, or 12 wire sets if you want to upgrade.
  • Instructions
The Zero Delay also has these additional features for those that wish to utilize them:
  • Hat switch for secondary joystick, POV controls, or console style gaming controls
  • Autofire option
  • Rapidfire option
  • 5 pin port for Japanese (Sanwa) ports
BoardFront.jpg
BoardBack.jpg

FAQ:

Q: What method does this board encode the controls?
A: Controls are encoded like a gamepad.

Q: How do I hook up the controls?
A: one end of the wire plugs right into the board port, the other end connectors into the joystick or button switch. The included instructions will let you know what each port maps to. The terminals will fit up to .187 size terminals, which is the most common size for arcade switches. If you have switches that take the larger .25 terminals, you can either soldier on the terminals or crimp on new connectors.

Q: Have these boards been inspected?
A: Each board was given QC initials. Also, I have personally plugged every board in my PC and determined that it registers correctly with the PC. I have also visually inspected all the wires and boards.

Q: How should payment be made?
A: I am set up for Paypal. If you are interested in purchasing, send me a PM.

Q: Is this compatible with PS3?
A: I have had a chance to try it out, yes, it worked great. It should be great for fighters!

Q: Does it need special software?
A: It uses the standard joystick drivers on the computer, no software needed!
[/copypasta'd]

I'm sure you all are dying to know the price by now, this thing only cost $14.75 SHIPPED!

I personally haven't had a chance to FULLY test these out myself but so far they're holding up as promised. The main thing i wanted to test out on this is to see if optical joysticks work with this thing. I haven't had much luck but they're several VCC points on the PCB so someone else who's more hella tech savvier can test that out themselves.



Im not sure if im allowed to link to other forums to where you can buy it, so if you're interested in this and want to talk to the man himself thats selling these send me a convo and ill link you to his thread....or better yet just google it and and im sure you'll get a direct hit...lol

Again, this is compatible with PS3 and PC ONLY! sorry Xbox 360 heads. You lose out once again.........blame Micro$oft.

Just wanted to let those in the dark know whats up. If you have any question feel free to ask.
That is all.

EDIT:
Fuck it.
EncoderBanner.jpg
eb476b4dda56f9cfea44fcfcd91fa127.gif.....CLICK DAT!

sf4 te 1 ps3 stick

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I bought a ps3 stick thinking it would work on my laptop just fine. but then i couldnt get it to work, i went online and alot of people told me it doesnt work on pc due to issues with the pcb or something. so i basically have been sitting with it for a year. then a guy on fightcade told me that he uses the te 1 ps3 stick just fine on his pc. and all he did was download a xbox360 driver, and it works fine for him is this true? has anyone tried this? i dont wana go through trouble of doing it if its a waste of time.

Namco Stick Appreciation!

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Are there 2 types of this stick? because I've seen two different stock joysticks inside and wondered if anyone knew the differences.

new build but need tips on joystick

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it been awhile i been on here but i am glad i am back and upgrading to a newer stick for my pc/ps4. i have a madcatz mvc stick ps3 version. i wanna put in a korean joystick that have a rubber knob sticking out so my question is, do i have to borded out the hole bigger or it will be find and just fit threw it of it stock hole.

and another question is, does anybody have any problems with the brook ps3/ps4 fighting pcb board with the break out board. i read a couple of forums that the board just time out during game play and this is after the update firmware install.

hope i get some helpful tips on my new build.

MAD CATZ Tournament Edition Sticks, Gone for Good?

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Where can I find the TE2 or TES nowadays new at a decent price? I know the company closed doors a few months ago, but is there any possibility of a restock anywhere?

If not, are there any high end sticks out now with really easy and extensive art customization options?
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