The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!!

March 4, 2010, 1:54 pm

≫ Next: Sanwa JLF + tape mode vs Seimitsu for Tekken 7

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I figured we need a place for everyone to post their Arcade Cabinets. Custom Built, MAME Machines, Cocktails, Straight from the arcade, Whatever!!!

I've seen some really nice cab's here, but it's hard to find them all.

I'll start.



This is my Dynamo 20" Street Fighter 2 Cab. Currently houses a PS2 with hacked DS1 pads under the CP.



Up next is my Current WIP. It's a vewlix style cab using T5's as a CP. This should be done in a few weeks.



Last is my MAME setup. Usually going for high scores in Donkey Kong. Had to build the CP from scratch. Pretty Stoked about how it came out.



Alright all, let's see some Cabs!!!

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Sanwa JLF + tape mode vs Seimitsu for Tekken 7

December 6, 2017, 7:54 am

≫ Next: Which microswitches to buy?

≪ Previous: The Official Post your Arcade Cabinet Thread!!

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Hello guys,

I bought a Venom PS4 Official Arcade Stick less than 1 month ago. So I started changing the sticks and buttons with sanwa parts.

I didn't like the feeling of Sanwa JLF, so I added some tape to the actuator and now I think the feeling is perfect, but I'm not sure for how long this kind of mod can work, so I'm also looking for a stick that doesn't need mod or anything else.

I've heard of Seimitsu LS 32, 40, 55, 56 and 58, but I'm not sure which one I should pick up.

I like the standard Sanwa spring (if I'm not wrong should be 0.9 lb). I'm not sure how many mm I've enlarged my actuator, but I think it's similar to the Kowal 1mm probably.

So which Seimitsu could give me a short engage like the Sanwa with bigger actuator, but at the same time keeping the same spring feeling. I've read that LS 58 has a less stiff spring, so could its spring be compared to the standard Sanwa? And at the same can the LS 58 short engage be comparable to the JLF + 1mm actuator?

I'm also considering to try a metal or some other material actuator for my JLF, because I've heard that Kowal ABS can produce dust that can damage the stick's switches, the problem is that in Europe I think they sell only Kowall 1mm actuator. :-(

Which microswitches to buy?

December 6, 2017, 2:25 pm

≫ Next: New to stick - Advice on TE2+ or Qanba Dragon? Any advice would be seriously appreciated!

≪ Previous: Sanwa JLF + tape mode vs Seimitsu for Tekken 7

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I want to make a custom controller to play Tekken 7.

TLDR version: advise me please, what type of microswitches are the best for Tekken.

What kind of microswitches are the best for Tekken 7? I've looked up all types of controllers, and I see few options for myself, but I don't know which one is the best, because I haven't played Tekken using any of these options:

1. 2-dimensional stick. People say Korean version is better, because it goes to neutral faster.
2. Hitbox layout with 4 appropriate buttons(left, right, up, down) on the left side.
3. Cherry MX switches for mechanical keyboards.

Most people say that hitbox layout is better than a stick, so I am left with 2 real choices: hitbox microswitches vs cherry mx. I don't know which ones to choose.

I have seen people comparing mechanical switches from different manufacturers for keyboards but I have never seen people comparing mechanical switches for keyboards with microswitches for arcade sticks.

Cherry mx red, for example, have 4mm travel distance and actuation point at 2mm down, so in the center. They say cherry mx red is good for tapping multiple times in video games. Arcade stick microswitches on the other hand have ~1mm travel distance(from what I've seen on images, they use same microswitches as mouses) and actuation point at the bottom. So button can't be half-pressed physically and not activated logically, it can only be either released or pressed, both physically and logically. But is this good or bad compared to Cherry MX Red switches, for example? They say that it is a good thing that actuation point for Cherry MX Red is at the center, so you can quickly press/release/press/release a button a lot of times without actually fully pressing and releasing a button.

What I want to determine is if cherry mx better than hitbox microswitches for fighting games. And what microswitches in particular I should buy? If it's cherry mx, then what kind? There are black, red, blue, green, clear, etc? There are a lot of types of switches for mechanical keyboards. Which one would be theoretically objectively the best? Linear? Tactile? Clicky? My best guess that it's linear - red or black.

Same with hitbox microswitches. There so many more different kinds of buttons for arcade sticks. If I wanted to make a hitbox controller(with arcade buttons) for myself, what models of switches I should be looking for?

New to stick - Advice on TE2+ or Qanba Dragon? Any advice would be seriously appreciated!

December 6, 2017, 5:14 pm

≫ Next: The Optical Joystick Discussion

≪ Previous: Which microswitches to buy?

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Hey guys, I'll try to get right to the point here...
I'm looking to finally buy a PS4 fightstick after years away from the arcade.
I can buy a Madcatz TE 2+ new for $199 or a new Qanba Dragon for $239.
I like the size of the MC but I worry about being one of the unlucky few to get a bad board or button and now there's no MC to set that right...
and what if I ever needed a replacement cable?
I have already looked at the Obsidian but the Dragon for $40 extra is pretty tempting.
I'll mostly be playing at home but might take it to a friends house once in a while. No tournaments in my near future.
If anyone is willing to take a moment to give some advice/opinions, I would really appreciate it! Thanks in advance.

The Optical Joystick Discussion

January 10, 2010, 4:21 pm

≫ Next: UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

≪ Previous: New to stick - Advice on TE2+ or Qanba Dragon? Any advice would be seriously appreciated!

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I thought it would be pretty cool to start a thread dedicated to the discussion of optical joysticks. These include:

- The Happ/WICO Perfect 360 joystick
- The Sanwa JLHS-8Y FLASH 1 joystick
- The ASCII Answer (Optical) joystick

as well as recent reproductions:

- Toodles' Spark
- Rollie Electronics and Happ Controls' reproduction FLASH 1

What is an optical joystick and why should I care?

What's so great about optics? Well, the beauty of optical joysticks is that unlike their microswitch counterparts, there's not a single component on the PCB that moves. That means as long as you're not running these things out-of-spec, they'll last a really long time. The optical joysticks invented thus far have required +5V power to power their sensors and LEDs. All 5 sticks listed above have however been successfully installed onto PlayStation 1 and 2 era sticks without much of a hitch. This would normally be an issue since PS1 and PS2 PCBs output at only +3.3V.

All of the original joysticks been out of production for a long time. The Sanwa HS-ASSY FLASH 1 PCB was discontinued in 2006; the old WICO Perfect 360s have been out of production for maybe a decade (someone fact check me on this) and the ASCII optical joysticks were just hard to find to begin with. So, needless to say, if you want an original, you're going to have to prepare a chunk of cash to get it.

HOWEVER, do not be mistaken that just because they're reproductions that Toodles' Spark or Rolllie's FLASH 1 are any worse. They are reproductions, but they are based on the same design principles and standards that original optical joystick PCBs work on. They will work the exact same.


Where can I buy an optical joystick?

As stated, if you're looking to get an original optical joystick, be prepared to get some cash on hand because depending on which joystick you want, you're going to have to spend a LOT of cash. Here are some figures regarding the average going rate I've seen for these joysticks here on SRK's Trading Outlet:

WICO Perfect 360: $100.00 +/- $20.00
Sanwa JLHS-8Y FLASH 1: $200.00 (!) +/- $20.00
ASCII Answer (Optical): $120.00 +/- $20.00

And here's the price for the reproduction optical PCBs:

Toodles' Spark: $55.00 + shipping
Rollie's FLASH 1: To be determined

Except for the newer production Happ Perfect 360s, which you can get commonly from LizardLick for $39.95 plus shipping and handling, every other optical joystick ever made is out of production. Go figure why they're so sought after; the last time people were able to get an optical joystick for reasonable prices was around in 2006!

If you are a fan of American parts you can still get a Happ Perfect 360 joystick from places like LizardLick. Just be aware that the newer Happ Perfect 360 joysticks are manufactured by Happ in their factories in China and the first batches of P360s have had issues with various aspects of the build; pivot grinding issues, diagonals not registering, and other issues have been noticed in the newer P360s (none of these reported issues have anything to do with the optics. If there were any optics issues, it's because you're not powering your joystick properly).

However, that was a few years ago when Happ first made the switch to their China factories. Today, their P360s are mostly issue free, though WICO P360 owners will tell you the new P360s "Just don't feel the same." You can get a newer Happ P360 for around $40.00 USD from LizardLick, but for a WICO P360, you're going to need to do a bit of hunting for them and shell out some more cash. I've seen WICO P360s go for around $120.00 here on SRK. The easiest way to tell if it was made by WICO or Happ is to look at the bottom of the joystick. If it was made by WICO, it will have "WICO" written on the bottom. If Happ, it will say "HAPP P360." There have been some cases where some people got a P360 without any writing on the bottom at all, and it's mostly been assumed that these are WICO P360s, but just be sure to ask.

If you are fan of Japanese parts and are looking to use an optical joystick, looking for an ASCII Answer (Optical) is probably your best bet. They're incredibly good in terms of build quality and you can find them for significantly cheaper than a Sanwa FLASH 1. Of course, you typically won't find them sold as just the joystick. The ASCII Answer is pretty elusive only because when you look for any possible ASCII joystick that might have them, people are worried about whether the stick they're buying actually has an optical joystick since ASCII did manufacture sticks with microswitch joysticks. This detailed post by jdm714 however helps us out a lot. It covers the 6 ASCII sticks ever produced that used an optical joystick along with giving us the Japanese katakana for the joystick so that if you're feeling ambitious, you can hunt for them on Japanese auction sites.

jdm714, post: wrote:

For PlayStation
ASCII Stick 3 (?????????3)


ASCII Stick Zero 3 (?????????ZERO3)


ASCII Stick Justice (????????? ??????)


For Dreamcast
ASCII Stick FT (?????????FT)


ASCII Stick FT Special: SNK Version (?????????FT SP SNK?????)


ASCII Stick FT Special: Capcom Version (?????????FT SP ?????????)

Wiring up the ASCII Answer is a bit odd since it does not use a standard connector for its directions, voltage line, or ground. All we get with it is the wires that were attached to the original ASCII PCB. But courtesy of our encyclopedic resource, jdm714, we have a diagram for those who want to wire one up into another stick.



The colors correspond to each of the wires on the ASCII Answer PCB. Depending on whether you are using a Dreamcast or PlayStation 1 era ASCII Answer, your wire coloring may vary. This post by jdm714 tells of all the known color schemes so far:

jdm714, post: wrote:

Dreamcast has colors going Green, Brown, Gray, Yellow.
PlayStation has the colors going Green, Orange, Blue, Yellow.
The colors are different, but they are the same as diagrammed.

Alternatively, you can purchase a reproduction optical PCB to install into your Sanwa JLF in your stick of choice. The first contender is made by our resident PCB wizard, Toodles.

You might some PlayStation 1 era ASCII Answers had a purple wire (image courtesy of fujifilm, linked to by jdm714) instead of blue! But they wire up just the same. Bear in mind the diagram does not mean the ASCII Answer can exclusively be installed in a Mad Catz Arcade FightStick or with a Mad Catz PCB. It's just a reference diagram. It can be easily installed in any stick you want.

What about those reproductions? Resident PCB wizard Toodles has himself designed and manufactured an optical PCB designed for use in a Sanwa JLF joystick called the Spark. You can order one of these from his site. These are very reliable PCBs and are a very cost-effective solution if you want to try out an optical joystick for yourself.

Recently as well, Rollie Electronics in partnership with Happ Controls has begun reproducing the original FLASH 1 optical PCB designed for the Sanwa JLF joystick. I won't go into details, but you can find more information in their thread here:

http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-original-flash1-is-back-a-product-review.151531/

Anyways, enough background information. I'd like to propose the following discussion question:

What should we dub the ASCII optical joystick?

The term "ASCII Optical" is certainly easy to remember and is definitely precise enough for people to understand what you're talking about, but (it might be just me) I feel that it's very boring sounding. Happ/Wico had their "Perfect 360" bit going, a name signifying the perfection in movement that their optical joystick gave to the player. Sanwa's FLASH 1 had a reference to light in the name, and is almost synonymous with the phrase "High-Speed Response."

So what about ASCII? I personally think that we should dub it the "ASCII Answer" for two reasons:

1) It was, after all, ASCII's own "answer" to Sanwa's optical joystick.
2) For the deep, psychological part of the name, the term "answer" refers to how the ASCII optical joystick shall always be there to "answer" to whatever request you may make of it.

I dunno though; I thought my own attempt was pretty lame so let's get talking about the ASCII's new name or anything else optical.


Have at it gentlemen!

UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

September 29, 2011, 11:17 am

≫ Next: The Official TE2, TE2+, TES+, PANTHERA EZ MOD Thread

≪ Previous: The Optical Joystick Discussion

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Introduction -

Alright, folks, here it is, a fully consolized CPS2. And when I say fully consolized I don't mean with some monstrous external power supply and DB 15 connectors that require custom joysticks or adapters. I'm talking about a setup where everything is "off the shelf."

The core elements of this project are: Power, Video, and Controls:

Power - Internal DC/DC converter. An off the shelf laptop charger supplies this board with power which is then converted to proper voltages necessary to run everything inside.

Video - [NTSC] Composite, S-Video, and low resolution RGB+S (no Component). Uses a standard off the shelf Playstation A/V port cable.

Controls - 2 Player XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support. Yes, you just plug and play.

Photos of one of my prototypes:





Location Tests -

Devastation 2011 - Phoenix, AZ (early prototype, hard-wired controls)


EVO 2012 - Las Vegas, NV (prototype, XBOX 360 support)


AIAB This is It! 2012 - Tucson, AZ (prototype, PS3 & XBOX 360 support)


ST Games @ EVO 2013 - Las Vegas, NV (production, PS3 & XBOX 360 support)


F.A.Q. -

Ordering:

Q: What am I getting exactly?
A: You will receive a modified system (CPS2 A Board), power adapter (100-240V AC), video cable (Composite & S-Video), and USB cable for future firmware updates to the controller interface. You will still need a game (CPS2 B Board), TV (CRT with S-Video recommended), and controller (X360 or PS3).

Q: Can I pre-order one of these now?
A: Yes! I have not opened an official sales thread, but for the time being you can send me a PM or e-mail me: udgametech [AT] gmail.com

Q: So, how does ordering work, exactly?
A: Just let me know that you want to order a system and I will respond with an order number and an estimated time to complete it. When your order is being built, I will send you a payment request, after which you will have 2 weeks to make payment or forfeit your order position.

Q: How much does shipping cost?
A: It depends on which country you live in. USA is $20. Other countries vary.

Q: What forms of payment do you take?
A: This also depends on which country you live in. USA: PayPal (shipping only to verified address), money order, bank transfer, or personal check. Other countries: bank transfer or money order.

Q: I already have an A Board. Can I save money on my order and just send you mine?
A: Yes. You can receive $30 off of your order for each A-board sent (you can send multiple). However, you are not guaranteed to receive the exact board you sent (it is difficult to keep track of who sent what when they are disassembled in batches). Two other reasons to send me an A Board would be 1.) you would like an ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange compatible system, or 2.) you want an absolutely mint condition A Board and you happen to have one.

Q: I already have a laptop power supply. Can I save money on my order and just use mine?
A: No. I'd rather you start with a setup that has already been guaranteed to work than spend any time trying to figure out why power supply x isn't working properly.

General:

Q: What region/color B Board (Game Cartridge) will run on the UD-CPS2?
A: The standard compatibility for the UD-CPS2 is US/Blue and JP/Green (and RENTAL/Yellow, as far as I know). If one desires to play ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange games, a custom order can be placed for a unit which is compatible with (only!) one of those.

Q: Will this still work on an arcade cabinet?
A: No. Even if the JAMMA connector were exposed, there are still technical reasons for it not being able to run both ways.

Video Related:

Q: I'm tired of lugging around a heavy CRT TV to gatherings/tournaments. Being able to hook this up to a monitor would be a huge convenience. Is there any way to have Component Video available for this?
A: Not natively. You could run the UD-CPS2's RGBS output through an RGB to Component transcoder (like this) to output 240p Component Video, but any HD monitor (that actually supports 240p) must upscale that resolution in order to display it. Upscaling inevitably adds lag to your setup, therefore (non-HD) CRTs are the lag free display of choice for this system.

Q: I would like to stream/capture video from this unit. Do you have a recommended setup?
A: In the realm of standard resolution, the highest video quality for the least amount of hardware headache is certainly S-Video. By simply running S-Video and Stereo Audio to a distribution amplifier (like this or CE Labs AV 400SV) you can run both the player setup and stream/capture setup at excellent quality with fairly little extra hardware/cabling.

Q: Will this output PAL video?
A: No. There are no immediate plans to add PAL support.

Controller Related:

Q: Will all PS3 and XBOX 360 controllers work with UD-CPS2?
A: This cannot be guaranteed, but based on location testing, it certainly works with the majority. Also, the controller interface firmware can be updated via USB, so future firmware updates may expand controller support as more data is gathered.

Q: Can USB controllers other than XBOX 360 & PS3 be used?
A: No. I'd like to add support for other controller types in the future, though.

Q: Can buttons be re-mapped?
A: Yes, all buttons except for START and SELECT are able to be mapped to any one of the 6 Punch/Kick buttons.

Q: Can directions be re-mapped?
A: No.

Spinoff Products -

For those of you looking to add XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support to your own superguns, I will be making discrete USB Decoders, soon. There's a dedicated thread for those here:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/186701/undamned-s-usb-decoders-usb-to-jamma-etc/p1

I will also be making available the internal DC/DC converter used in the UD-CPS2 so people can use those in their own consolization/supergun projects! When those are available, I will update this post with a link to a separate thread.

The rest of this thread is a work log from early in the project up to the present...

The Official TE2, TE2+, TES+, PANTHERA EZ MOD Thread

June 5, 2016, 6:54 pm

≫ Next: Converter Compatibility Thread

≪ Previous: UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

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** IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS OR TECH PROBLEMS: IT MAY BE FASTER TO USE MY HELP DESK SYSTEM AS I GET BETTER NOTIFICATIONS FROM IT! HTTP://JASENSCUSTOMS.ZENDESK.COM **

Hi everyone! I wanted to take a minute to create this thread so everyone can ask questions, get help, etc. from one location with the TE2 EZ MOD.

What is the TE2 and TE2+ EZ MOD?

The TE2/TE2+ EZ MOD allows easy installation of the Brook Universal Fighting Board in all Madcatz TE2 sticks (and NOW TE2+ STICKS). If you are not familiar with the Brook UFB, check the link out. It's a PCB (or brain if you will) that allows your Fight/Arcade Stick to work with the following consoles: PS3/PS4/XBOX 360/XBOX ONE/Wii U (Pokken) and of course PC. It was released earlier this year and is a very welcomed addition to the community.

Why install it?
It mods your single stick into a multi platform beast quick and easy. Perfect for traveling around to tourneys, local events, etc. It works with all variants of the TE2 and, in my opinion, can't be installed improperly. It requires one minor modification to the stock wiring of the stick, removing the soldered on USB connector wires. They can be clipped right at the board easily. It fits in the stock location for the TE2/TE2+ so it looks clean when installed and keeps the Brook UFB swappable to other sticks as well because the connectors are common and top mounted.

What's included in the kit?
The TE2 and TE2+ EZ MOD Board is included with all necessary cables and connectors that require soldering to the Brook UFB. Can't solder? Don't worry! The shops carrying the TE2 EZ MOD will have Brook UFB pre-soldered for painless and solder-free install upon arrival.

TE2 EZ MOD Board Picture:


TE2 EZ MOD Board Installed into an XBONE TE2:


Install Video Part 1:


Install Video Part 2:


Basic Install "How To"


Where to buy it?
You can get the TE2 EZ MOD from the following retailers later this month (June 2016) as the production run is being finalized now. Yes, each board is professionally manufactured and assembled.

Arcade Shock
Paradise Arcade Shop

You can get the TE2+ EZ MOD from me at EVO2016. Yes, each board is professionally manufactured and assembled.

FAQs (TE2 EZ MOD)

• Price? - I am leaving this up to the Vendors, however, I expect about $30 for the kit with some special combo deals from time to time when purchased with the Brook UFB.
• Will this work with the LVT3? - Yes. It should work fine. The Power Connector "U$8" aka "TO LVT3 or LED BOARD provides the necessary power to the stock MCZ LED board and the LVT3 board.
• What are the jumpers in the kit used for? - You connect them to pins on JP4 (RIGHT BUTTON on the AUX Panel) and JP5 (LEFT BUTTON on the Aux Panel). These let you set those buttons to either L3, R3, TP Click, or Turbo.
• What does JP6 do? - This is a programming header. Do not connect anything to this. It is not used by the end user.
• Can you use this to connect a PS360+ ? - Absolutely. In this case you will only need to connect the 4P USB interconnect and the 20P ribbon cable between the two boards.
• Can I use a Kaimana Khameleon with this setup? - Absolutely! The only modification you will need to make is making your own mini-USB to Molex 4 pin connector cable. Simply cut the non-mini end off of the cable and connect the wire ends to a molex 4P KK housing. Here's a link. Don't forget the pins!
• What do the LEDs on the Aux panel end up doing? - On sticks that have it, the LOCK button indicates Turbo Function. Solid = Turbo activated, Blinking = Turbo in effect for the button you are pressing. The Player LEDs work as expected lighting up for what player you are on the system. The remaining don't do anything. The one fun part is on XBONE variants all LEDs do a Knight Rider chase on power up. How fun!
• Do you have other EZ MODs? - Yes! The PS4 version of the Hori VLX has an EZ MOD available as well.And a TE2+ EZ MOD is being produced now. I have no immediate plans for TE+S EZ MODS due to military commitments and relatively low sales of that stick.
• My MCZ LED Board doesn't light up! - Don't worry, we can fix it. It's not clean but it will work until you can update to an LVT3 LED controller. On the 3 pin LED Board Connector, connect the middle pin and the pin closest to the start/select header. You can clip the wires and then solder/splice them together or even bridge the pins on the EZMOD board underneath. The LEDs should fire right up. Thanks @Megahurtz for being the guinea pig on this work around
• My Aux panel buttons don't work!? - You most likely failed to install the jumpers on J4 and J5 labeled LEFT BUTTON and RIGHT BUTTON respectively. Please install the jumpers to set the buttons to your liking. You can make either of them L3, R3, Turbo, or Touch Pad Click. 100% of the issues with these buttons not working after install is because the jumpers weren't installed.

Here's an image of what the jumpers look like to set the LEFT and RIGHT AUX buttons. You should have TWO in your kit. Colors do not matter.




FAQs (TE2+ EZ MOD)

• Price? - TBD, but I hope to keep it between $35 and $40. I didn't make as many of these so volume pricing won't be as good.
• Who sells it? Just me at EVO 2016 right now. If its popular and the TE2 EZ MOD does well, I suspect other shops will want to carry it as well.
• Do I have to use Jumpers? Nope. Not on this one. The TE2+ had all the right buttons this time!
• Does the UNLOCK/LOCK button work? Yes, as TURBO. To keep the board low cost and minimize the number of processors and programs to deal with I chose to NOT make that function work in lieu of using the Turbo Function.
• Does the Touch Pad work? Yes and No. It is setup to work once Brook implements the Touch Pad connections into the UFB Firmware. The TP click does work.
• Will this work with the LVT3? - Yes. It should work fine. The Power Connector "U$8" aka "TO LVT3 or LED BOARD provides the necessary power to the stock MCZ LED board and the LVT3 board.
• What does JP6 do? - This is a programming header. Do not connect anything to this. It is not used by the end user.
• Can you use this to connect a PS360+ ? - Absolutely. In this case you will only need to connect the 4P USB interconnect and the 20P ribbon cable between the two boards.
• Why are there LEDs on the board? What do they do? Two indicate the two voltages on the board, VBUS and VCC. If they are lit, power is working properly. The final LED is a "heartbeat" this indicates that the processor is working. If it's blinking, the EZ MOD is working
• Can I use a Kaimana Khameleon with this setup? - Absolutely! The only modification you will need to make is making your own mini-USB to Molex 4 pin connector cable. Simply cut the non-mini end off of the cable and connect the wire ends to a molex 4P KK housing. Here's a link. Don't forget the pins!
• What do the LEDs on the Aux panel end up doing? - The LOCK button indicates Turbo Function. Solid = Turbo activated, Blinking = Turbo in effect for the button you are pressing. The Player LEDs work as expected lighting up for what player you are on the system, except there is a twist! The Player 1 LED lights up Blue if you are Player 1. Then if you are Player 2, Player 1 and Player 2 LEDs light up RED. If you are Player 3: Player 1, 2, and 3 light up GREEN. Player 4: All 4 LEDs are ON and Purple! Fun! Also, the Knight Rider woosh goes on startup and the Player LEDs cycle their colors to show everything is working. Finally in XBONE mode, all 4 LEDs are on and glow WHITE.
• Do you have other EZ MODs? - Yes! The PS4 version of the Hori VLX has an EZ MOD available as well and the TE2 EZ MOD.

Bug Fixes and Applicability

** IF YOU HAVE A TE2 EZ MOD WITH AN XBOX 360 TE2 ONLY. EZ MOD SHIPPED AFTER 7/1/16: Player 4 LED is always lit due to a software bug we found and fixed compliments of @Feargus001100 (thanks Copy and Paste)! If you received your EZ MOD from ArcadeShock or ParadiseArcadeShop and find that the Player 4 LED on your XBOX 360 Version TE2 is always ON please contact me for a fix!

LVT3 USERS

Some of the LVT3s designed for the MCZ TE2 are not compatible with the EZ MOD. Specifically, the XBONE version. The others ARE compatible but may not work right out of the box with the TE2+ and TE2 but may require a cable fix that connects the LVT3 to the EZ MOD. Basically, if your buttons don't work after install, you need to tweak the included LVT3 cable. What is happening is the button signal connections from the LVT3 are being connected directly to the GND plane and the GND plane of the LVT3 are being connected directly to the button signals. Clearly, nothing will work this way. Here's how the connector on the EZ MOD is setup:



Here's the link from Paradise Arcade discussing what to do to swap the wires around:

http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/solutions/articles/14000026297-te2-and-te2-with-the-lvt3

*** UPDATED 6.18.17 - ADDS RAZER PANTHERA EZ MOD INFO

What is the PANTHERA EZ MOD?

The PANTHERA EZ MOD allows easy installation of the Brook Universal Fighting Board in the RAZER PANTHERA (PS4) FIGHT STICK. If you are not familiar with the Brook UFB, check the link out. It's a PCB (or brain if you will) that allows your Fight/Arcade Stick to work with the following consoles: PS3/PS4/XBOX 360/XBOX ONE/Wii U (Pokken) and of course PC. It was released earlier this year and is a very welcomed addition to the community.





[img][/img]Why install it?
It mods your single stick into a multi platform beast quick and easy. Perfect for traveling around to tourneys, local events, etc. It works with the PANTHERA (untested or tried on the other variants) and, in my opinion, can't be installed improperly. It requires one minor modification to the stock wiring of the stick, removing the soldered on USB connector wires. They can be clipped right at the board easily. It fits in the stock location for the PANTHERA so it looks clean when installed.

What's included in the kit?
The PANTHERA EZ MOD KIT is available from www.ArcadeShock.com as a full kit. No soldering skills required or necessary.

Basic Install "How To"
Razer PANTHERA EZ MOD Install PDF

Where to buy it?
You can get the PANTHERA EZ MOD from ArcadeShock.com. Yes, each board is professionally manufactured and assembled.

Arcade Shock


FAQs (PANTHERA EZ MOD)

• Does the Touch Pad work? Yes and No. It is setup to work once Brook implements the Touch Pad connections into the UFB Firmware. The TP click does work.
• Do you have other EZ MODs? - Yes! The PS4 version of the Hori VLX has an EZ MOD available as well and the TE2 and TE2+ EZ MOD. The TES+ EZ MOD will be released Fall 2017.
• Does the PS3/PS4 switch work? - No! This switch is NOT required for the Universal fighting Board and as such it is no longer functional when installed.

Converter Compatibility Thread

March 15, 2009, 9:06 pm

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Read the FAQ before posting!

There is not a converter for using a TE on a system other than the one it was designed for.

There is no USB to anything older. No USB to PS2, Dreamcast, etc. You must mod your stick with a MC Cthulhu or a second PCB.

If you want a stick that works on both Xbox 360 and PS3 (And PS2, Dreamcast, etc.) get a PS2 stick like a HRAP or Namco. You can then use converters to adapt it to various systems.

You can not plug a random USB controller or converter into either the Xbox 360 or PS2. The Xbox 360 only works with Xbox controllers due to its security scheme. The PS2 was never designed to accept it.

The PS3 can use HID compliant (driverless) USB controllers for PS3 and PS1 games (not PS2). This makes the USB Saturn pads worth getting. Beware of bootlegs.

The PS1 Dual Shock has the best compatibility with converters. If you are building a custom stick then these are the way to go. The original, non-analog controllers have problems with most converters and are not recommended if you can avoid them.

Most custom PS1/PS2 sticks were made with Sony PCBs. When submitting a compatilibility report open your stick and see what kind of pad is inside. The Dual Shock pads have analog sticks. The original Digital pads do not.

There are three versions of the SFAC stick. Unscrew the bottom of the case to check the PCB before purchasing an adapter. Check next to the system cable for the voltage. It will read either 3.5V 7.5V or 8V. This number is indicated in the listing below whenever possible.

Please test your converter if it can be connected to a PC:

If you purchase a converter that's USB (PS2 to PS3, etc.) and want to test it for lag (on Windows) then download this application developed by SRK member Colac. It's straightforward to use once you get the hang of it.

To accurately test your adapter/converter, you need to:

1) Turn off vertical sync in your graphics card settings.

2) Using a key on your keyboard to run through the program once and record down the input lag time from your keyboard.

3) Plug your gamepad and stick through the adapter that you want to test into your PC. Then, use programs like (xpadder) to map a button on your gamepad or stick to the SAME key that you tested in step one. Run the program and record down the input lag again.

4) Subtract the two results you got from previous steps. If the difference is less than 2 ms (i.e., stick input lag - keyboard input lag <= 2ms), then your adapter can be considered as lag free.

PS2 to PS3/USB

Note: Sony is at it again with 3.5. The Real and HAIS are reportedly done for.

The 2.7 firmware update rendered the Sumoto and TAC adapters unusable with the PS3. This was corrected with 2.8. I'm hesitant to recommend them in light of this but they are working again.

The majority of these converters should also work on a PC without drivers (InPin, Pelican). If you only care about PC compatibility then the Super Joy Box 3 Pro was highly recommended. It does not work on the PS3.

*Recommended* InPin: This is the best option that's readily available. It's sold by exclusively by SRK member laugh. Visit his eTokki shop to order one.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS, MAS, HRAP Series, Namco PS1, SFAC 3.5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V?, certain PS1 Digitals

*Recommended* Pelican: People claim that these are the only adapter to feature code from Sony. They have excellent compatibility with the exception of PS1 digital PCBs. They're by far the most expensive ($50+) but can occasionally be found used at GameStop for a few dollars.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, HRAP 2, SFAC 3.5, Namco PS1, Saulabi
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, SFAC 7.5V

HVG2: These are reportedly a good converter if your stick has a analog capabilities; like a custom with a PS1 DS. It will not work with a digital PCB like most consumer sticks have (HRAP).
Compatible With: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, Hori Fighting Stick, SFAC 3.5V, 7.5V
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Namco PS1, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2, SFAC Pad
Reviews: Riotblade

DragonPlus: There were conflicting reports on this adapter. Most of its owners reported it as lagless. Press Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Tekken 5 stick

Cablesforpc: This is the one to get for owners of the SFAC stick with an 8V PCB. It allows two PS2 controllers to be connected.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, 8V, HRAP 1
Incompatible with: SFAC 7.5V
Reviews: Annihilationscape

Sumoto: These were reported as the best adapter for Sony digital PCBs (original pads without analog sticks). A few users have claimed they're lagless, and I haven't seen a negative review on them yet.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, Tekken 5, Pelican Universal, Pelican PS2, Ascii PS1, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with:

TAC: These were reported to work well with SFAC and HRAP series. MarkMan and others reported that it has issues so I would avoid it in favor of something else. Hold Analog for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital

Real (Incompatible with 3.5): These were once all the rage but are now discontinued. They notably do not work with PS2 DS controllers.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1, SFAC, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: PS2 DS

Hais (Incompatible with 3.5): These reportedly work well and include a PS2 memory card reader. They have taken Sumoto's place as a solid/budget converter. Press Analog or Up+Select for XMB. Hold Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC, SFAC pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Pelican Universal
Reviews: Canto

PS2/3 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* Controller Converter Pro by Blaze (?): This is an unmarked converter that is similar in appearance to the Blaze PS2-360. It notably does not require a 360 controller for passthrough. It reportedly works well with a HRAP3 and features similar compatibility to the Blaze.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS3 DS3, HRAP3, HRAP2, Namco T5, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: MadCatz TE and SE, Pelican Universal

PS2 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* PS&PS2 to 360 converter (Xtokki360) by Tinybee: These converters, originally sold through Focalprice, are the best available option for PS2 to 360. They do not require an Xbox 360 controller for passthrough like the others listed below. They are also the only converter to feature a headset jack. They are sold by SRK member laugh. He is the recommended supplier because of Focalprice's questionable shipping. Analog or Select + L3 for Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, Tekken 5, MC Cthulhu, Mayflash PS2/PS3, Tekken 4, Fighting Stick PS, ASCII Stick 3
Incompatible with:
Reviews: kaioshade, DrgnAK

The following converters require a wired 360 controller to bypass Microsoft's security scheme. A wireless controller with a Play & Charge cable will not work. Read Ikagi-chan's post for more information. The Blaze and Xtokki360 above feature a Microsoft security chip to bypass this requirement.

*Recommended* Xconverter 360 by Joytron: These were the best option until the introduction of the Xtokki360. They are now discontinued. Previously sold by SRK member laugh who brought us the InPin. Analog = Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, MAS, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:
Reviews: laugh, Ikagi-chan, Gamecop

*Recommended* BlazePro: These Hong Kong converters can be had for $10 on eBay. They are basically superseded by the PS3 to 360 converter listed above.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller, Saturn PS2 pad, Blaze Twin Shock
Incompatible with:
Reviews: Source thread

Max Shooter by Mayflash: These work great except for an issue with simultaneous key presses. Pressing corresponding buttons, for example: Right+Circle will cause the converter to freeze until another button is pressed.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP 1, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: HRAP 2, SFAC 8V

XFPS by XCM: There are a few revisions of this adapter but I can't recommend it at all. It reportedly lags and/or drops input even with a real Sony PS1 or PS2 controller. The OP repeatedly trashes them earlier on in the thread. There are 10 negative posts for every positive I could find. Read this, this, this, this, this, and this before deciding to spend your money on one of these.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS
Incompatible with: Namco PS1, HRAP 2

Xbox 360 to PS3

Cross Battle Adapter by XCM: MarkMan confirmed that this drops inputs similar to the XFPS. People with 360 sticks should look into adding a Cthulhu PCB (Photos) for PS3 compatibility.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with:

PS2 to DC

*Recommended* Total Control Plus: These are usually recommended since they're readily available. Toggle the switches on it to change the triggers.
Compatible with: Sony DS 2, HRAP, HRAP 2, SFAC, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: Some MAS sticks

*Recommended* Dream Connection 2 by Innovation (original URL, sold out): These as reportedly the best converters but are expensive and hard to come by. The SFAC Pad isn't recommended because it treats L1 and R1 (the HP/HK buttons) as the same button.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2/SA, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V

PS2 to GameCube/Wii

*Recommended* Cube JoyBox Pro by Mayflash: These are the most commonly recommended converters for GC. They work with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom on Wii.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA, MAS, Namco PS1, Tekken 5, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:

Magic Path II by EMS: These apparently work equally as well as the Cube JoyBox. They're also reported to work fine with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, HRAP
Incompatible with:

Game Elements (eBay): This is the converter I've happily used for years. It works great on the GameCube/Wii as well as the Xbox. ArcadeStickMonk used it as well.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 2 SA, MAS
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital (works on Xbox) SFAC 8V, Tekken 5 (Works on Xbox), SFAC Controller

PS2 to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: These are lag free and the Saturn port is awesome. It went completely nuts when I plugged in my PS1 DS stick.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP, HRAP 2 SA
Incompatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC Pad, SFAC 8V

*Recommended* Game Elements: These work very well. See the GameCube section above.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2 SA, MAS, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Directional issues w/3rd Strike

X-Connection by Innovation: I would think the Innovation name would guarantee this one a winner, but it reportedly doesn't work with certain games or the HRAP 2.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with: HRAP 2

PS2 to Saturn, SNES, etc.

A company called ToToTEK makes a wide variety of PS2 to classic system adapters. There's one for 3DO, Neo-Geo, Famicom (NES), FC2003 (?), Saturn, GameCube, SNES, PC Engine (TurboGrafx-16), and Genesis (Mega Drive). They reportedly work well from everything I've read.

Saturn to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: This works great with an official Sega pad. There isn't a Select button for Insert Coin but some Xbox emulators like FB Alpha allow it to be remapped. Only problem is that they're hard to find.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad
Incompatible with: Nights Analog Pad

Saturn to PS2

*Recommended* Keio Console Converters: These are a godsend for people wanting to use their Saturn pads on other systems. They can be chained to other converters for use on the Xbox 360, PS3, etc.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad, HSS-0130
Incompatible with:

Xbox to USB (Not PS3)

The original Xbox uses a USB connector with a funky male end. Female Xbox to male USB adapters can be had on eBay for a few dollars. No conversion is necessary. This reportedly works fine for the SFAC stick.

Xbox 360 to USB (Not PS3)

Xbox 360 sticks/controllers work fine on Windows using Microsoft's drivers. They're available for both 32-bit and 64-bit.

---

Where to find pin-out resource for making cables

December 9, 2017, 10:35 am

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Im hoping to make rj-45 to console cables to use with my MC Cthulhu, for the following, PS1/2, Dreamcast, Saturn, GameCube, Neo Geo, PC-Engine/Turboe Duo and various other systems. I have the PS360+ resource guide and on page 8&9 they offer a diagram to make these cables, but my problem is i dont know what colors the numbers pertain to. Just for an example on the Dreamcast cable the chart shows the 5 Dreamcast cables in slots 1,3,4,7,8 of the rj-45 tip but i dont know what colors those Dreamcast cables are. I know i could just destroy the connection tip of the original console cable but I'd rather not if there is information out there already. If anyone can help me to understand what colors im looking for that would be a huge help. I would like to know all of the cables provided in the PS360+ chart as well as the GameCube, which is a pretty important cable for what Im doing. Thanks for the help.
Below is the PS360+ resource guide to help you understand what Im asking
http://akishop-customs.com/assets/img/bg/Files/PDF/PS360HardwareOverview.pdf

(documentorganisation@gmail.com)buy/get real ielts/Purchase/obtain ielts certificate, get registered

December 11, 2017, 11:54 am

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Fight stick not working anymore in game [STV]

December 11, 2017, 2:04 am

≫ Next: Madcatz TE/SE PS3 pc incompatibility is not a hardware issue. They work on Linux.

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This is my controller DIY
https://imgur.com/i9ernZp

The board I use is a Xin-Mo 1
It worked fine from day 1.
Only Saturday night it stopped working :(
- In Windows controller > it works fine
- To a image display (see in the YT movie) it works fine

What I already tested:
- Steam Big Picture Mode turned everything off.
- Verify Integrity of the game files.
- Reinstall STV
- Deleted all the configure files
- Reinstall the controller drivers
- testing with the mode function on the Xin-Mo
- CCleaner for errors in my Keyreg
- other USB ports
- rewired / check every cable in my controller
- X360ce thing (not working)
- read / test everything on the capcom help topic on steam commu.


(this is in game)


Is there anybody here to have a idea to help me

Madcatz TE/SE PS3 pc incompatibility is not a hardware issue. They work on Linux.

September 26, 2014, 10:38 am

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So like many others my Madcatz SE fight stick doesn't work on my windows PC. People were saying it was a chipset issue. Many people bought PCI usb ports with compatible chipsets to get them to work. To my surprise when I tried the stick on a Kubuntu (modified version of Ubuntu, a linux distribution) it worked right out the gate! No driver install was needed to get it recognized. So the whole chipset, usb 1.0 story people have been talking about is nonsense.

So the question is, is there anything that can be done now that we know it's not a hardware problem?

Button randomly stops working

December 11, 2017, 10:00 pm

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I have a TE2+ that I use on PC for SFV. Every minute or so my MP button will cut out for a second or two then start working again. Has anybody else run into a similar issue or have any advice on how to remedy the problem? It's getting very annoying.

Moledcule: Kaimana Theme Builder, Compiler, Flasher... ...you design... ...we code!

November 20, 2016, 7:46 am

≫ Next: MAS Systems Official Thread

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Updates
Reserved Post For Updates

Sunday, April 4, 2017
v1.0.6 kaimana restore bug

Sunday, March 12, 2017
v1.0.5 balltop fix

Wednesday, February 15, 2017
v1.0.3 now with balltop LED selector
this is my valentines day gift to you all

Friday, January 7, 2017
v1.0.2 Windows 10 Device Fix

Friday, January 6, 2017
v1 Fixed Windows Version for Device

Wednesday, December 1, 2016
v0.9.9 Changed apps window bounds

Friday, November 25, 2016
v0.9.8 Patched Cross Color Fading (throw, focus, taunt)

Wednesday, November 23, 2016
v0.9.7 Minor bug fix (LED miscount on menu buttons)

Tuesday, November 22, 2016
v0.9.4 Added layouts for neopixel ring
v0.9.5 Hot patch (facebook bug fix)
v0.9.6 Hot patch (profile bug fix)

Monday, November 21, 2016
v0.9.3 Hot patch (minor bug fix)

Sunday, November 20, 2016
v0.9.2 Hot patch of app release in Chrome App Store
thank you testers

Saturday, November 19, 2016
v0.9.1 first wide release


Update Chrome App

MAS Systems Official Thread

May 31, 2010, 6:33 pm

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*We recieved full permission from Kyle to make this thread*

Welcome to the MAS Systems Official Thread. In this thread you can: ask questions about our products, purchase from us, or just give us feedback on anything at all related to our merchandise or company. However, I?ll do my best to already answer a couple of these questions down below.

Which consoles do you currently make controllers for?
We make controllers for pretty much everything. Here?s a list of a couple of the popular ones:
? PS2 (works with PS1)
? PS3 (which is PS2 with an adaptor; this means if you buy the PS3, your controller will work for PS2 and PS1, all in one controller)
? PC
? X-Box 360
? GameCube
? Dreamcast
? Neo-Geo
? Supernova
And so on.

Do you offer different sized controllers?
Short answer: Full size and mini size (See below for pictures).
We manufacture both a full sized controller, as well as a mini sized controller. The main difference for the controllers: full sized controllers are more often used for tabletop purposes, which means you play with the controller sitting in front of you, not on your lap. The mini sized controller was made for the purposes of having a lighter version to place on your lap while you owned it up, sitting back into your couch or however you wished to play. Also, if your wondering, the mini version can compete just as well with a full size version, it's merely based on which one you feel suits your playing style better.

How much are your controllers?
Our controllers have a starting price of $115 for both sizes. However, the X-Box 360 has a different starting price of $170.

How much are the PCB's/PIC's?
We no longer use PCB's for our controllers, and we do not sell the PIC's by themselves.

Why does the X-Box 360 start at $170? Can I have it added to my old joystick?
It starts at $170 because the engineering behind it is a lot more difficult and labor intensive. Also, because of the way it?s made, the X-Box 360 cannot be added to an existing controller. You would have to purchase the X-Box 360 controller as your starting console, and then add more systems to that controller from there on.

Can I add more than one system to my controller? How much is it?
You can add as many systems as you would like all into one controller. The way this works cost-wise is once you decide to purchase a controller at the starting price of $115, you can then add an additional system for $40, unless you want the PS3, which is only an additional $20. Please be aware that the X-Box 360 is different in this respect. The X-Box 360 has a starting price of $170, and it cannot be added to a pre-existing controller. The only way to have multiple console with the X-Box 360 is by purchasing the X-Box 360 controller from the very start. From there, you can add on as many consoles as you want.

Will I be able to add systems later on/after I purchase the controller? Can I ship it back and/or stop by to have it done?
Definitely! A lot of people will do this, actually. You shouldn't have to buy a separate stick for every console you own. If you would like to just ship your order back to us, please make sure that you include a note inside explaining what you want in as much detail as possible; be sure to include personal information as well. If you need a format to follow, use the one at the bottom, but instead of explaining your order in detail, explain what you want added to the controller. Usually it's not a problem, but please make sure that your writing is also legible (easy to read), as that could pose some obvious problems. Alternatively, you could also drop on by and have it worked on right then and there, but please make sure you call in before doing this, as we can't ensure that we will time to work on your controller with all the other orders we have to work on! If you're lucky enough though, you may end up waiting anywhere from a half hour to a couple hours depending on what you want added in i.e. just one console as opposed to multiple consoles (please read the restrictions for X-Box 360 being added in).

What if I just want to purchase a case? How much are they?
We offer just plain empty cases for sale for both the full sized controller and the mini one. The full size case is $60 and the mini size case is $50. The X-Box 360 case is $65. Please keep in mind that shipping and handling still apply depending on your location, and in which way you choose to have it shipped

I purchased your case because I?d like to build the controller on my own, but if I have any questions on how to build it, will you help me out?
Unfortunately, we cannot help you out due to the fact that we are a business and we sell a certain product. It wouldn?t make sense for us to sell our product to those who bought it rightfully so, and then for us to turn around and help you build our product for yourself.

What kind of parts do you use for your controllers?
Traditionally, we have only used Happ parts in our controllers, and that?s what our engineer is used to working with as well. For this reason alone and also due to the fact that I only handle sales, it is not my decision on which parts can be used. Although, EvilSamurai did suggest shining some light on the subject of changing which parts we use (quoted below), which I have yet to look into as of right now, but I will definitely bring it up to the engineer.

EvilSamurai, post: 4338104 wrote:

Hi, can you guys use IL parts ( Happ has stopped purchasing their parts from Industrias Lorenzo and shifted production to their own plant in China. The quality has gone down the toilet) and quick disconnects?

Will I be able to customize my order? How so?
You can definitely customize your order to way you would like, but there are some restrictions to how far we can do this. You can customize the color/type of your buttons, you can also customize the color of the sides, as well as the type of joystick. There are a couple choices you have which I'll add in later in more detail. The T-molding is a standard black. We can do any custom faces that you would like, so long as you give us the picture you want! You have three options for the face: a black face which isn't fully black, a fully black face, or a white face.


*Please note that the all black mini controller with blue buttons is a special order for one of our dealers, and we cannot make that exact one for you. Its purpose is to show the all black face.*

Do you guys have any blank templates that I can use?
Short version:We're releasing blank templates of our controller layouts. Keep checking the original post as they should be up within the next day or so.

Long version: Just a heads up for anyone who may be interested. Traditionally, MAS Systems has been hesistant to allow others to use our templates for customizing their own face, but I've been receiving a lot of questions regarding blank templates lately. I've talked this over with the engineer, who I wouldn't have expected to be very interested, but as it seems, because of the direct feedback that I receive from you guys, I've managed to successfully persaude him into providing you all with a template! Expect a file to be available for use within the next day or so on the original post. Thanks for all the great feedback and questions everyone! Remember, you're always free to ask me any question at all, or suggest something you would like to see from MAS Systems. We always appreciate the feedback we receive, and the buyer's interest is of the utmost importance to us. Thanks for your time.

We do ask that you refrain from using anything copyrighted (unless it's okay to do this like with streetfighter or other things that I'm not aware of), only fan-based art or something that isn't copyrighted, or just create your own, but now you will have an exact template to work with. Thanks for your interest in MAS controllers!

How do I pay? How much is shipping? Do you ship internationally?
Payments can be made through PayPal to massystems2006@sbcglobal.net and shipping will depend on the buyer's location. We do ship internationally. TAX IS INCLUDED IN THE COST.

What if I live within the area/I'm local, can I pick it up in person and/or pay by cash instead?
If you're within the area/local, you are more than welcome to save yourself the cost of shipping and pick it up in person. You can also choose to pay by cash as well (a lot people have shown to like this method the most as it's both quick and easy).

You haven't mentioned anything about accepting cards, why is that?
Not enough customers actually paid by card, and over the years it was always the same. The card service charges a monthly fee in order for us to just have the machine there to accept cards regardless of whether or not it's used (it just wasn't being used, so we got rid of it). I'm sorry if this poses as an inconvenience to any of you, but you can still use PayPal, which is highly recommended, or pay by cash if you're local! Thanks for understanding.

Just when exactly will I be receiving my order? How come the orders aren't always finished and received within the expected time?
Your order should ship within 2-3 weeks, and it also depends on how fast you want it shipped. I understand that it can be frustrating to not recieve your order on the expected time of arrival, however you must remember that MAS Systems is only run by mainly one person who handles several orders day in and day out. Our engineer works tirelessly to make sure that each and every order is built with 110%.

Hmm.. will I be able to check up on my order then?
You will most certainly be able to check up on the status of your order! We will never hide anything from the buyer.

I'm sold, how do I go about buying one?
You can either call our phone number directly (714) 839 9770, or contact me through a PM with the following format. However, it is highly reccomended that you use the format below, or something similar to it. It just makes it easier to process/finalize your order, and things do go a lot quicker that way. It also helps to ensure that we can stay organized with our orders, instead of trying to keep track of a single order over multiple messages. No offense to anyone who has already done that, it's just preferred that we have things more organized! Thanks a lot!

Name:
Adress:
Your order in as much detail as possible:
Shipping preference (default is ground shipping):
Anything else:

You can also PM me for any questions, comments, or concerns.

- MAS Systems

P.S. We are fully aware of the fact that our phone seems to be having a lot of trouble with receiving calls, however you can still place an order either through here or through a PM. I?ll be able to get you set up just the same.

I'm still curious though.. why is this in the wrong forum? How do we know if you're legitimate or not?
If you're still wondering why this thread was made in the Tech Talk forum and not the Trading Outlet, it's because I was unable to get set up in the Trading Outlet due to strict rules and regulations. But with the help of Kyle and other supporters, I was able to set up a shop here. It's all legitimate, and I have already verified who I am with Kyle as well. I hope that answered any remaining confusion there may have been. Thanks for your time.

There are a lot of other questions that have been answered throughout the thread. Please take the time to briefly search through before asking a similar question!

BLANK TEMPLATES ARE AVAILABLE NOW!! See below! You may notice that these are full size templates, but they work just the same for mini ones. Also, just in case you're wondering, your picture should go beyond the bolded black border/frame (you can delete the black border if you want.), but the main parts of your picture should not touch the sides. This is because some of the sides are lost in the the process of fitting the design onto the controller, but I wouldn't worry about it too much. I'm guessing it would be around a quarter of an inch to half an inch.

6 button layout (REGULAR)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/6buttonlayoutREGULAR.jpg

8 button layout (REGULAR)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/8buttonlayoutREGULAR.jpg

6 button layout (XBOX 360)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/6buttonlayoutXBOX360.jpg

8 button layout (XBOX 360)
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac165/MASSystems/8buttonlayoutXBOX360.jpg

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Righthanding a Street Fighter anniversary stick

October 17, 2017, 10:03 am

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I noticed something. My Street Fighter Anninersary stick is a pretty versatile stick. If I plug it into a PS2-> Xbox One converter, I can use the OS joystick remapping functions, and because the buttons are 2 rows of 4 buttons, American style, I can reprogram up it where up and down are switched, left and right are switched, and punches and kicks are switched vertically, but not horizontally, because you want your quick attacks at your index fingers and your consumable attacks at your pinky.

it may not be the most optimum lefty stick (from the perspective of an Atari 2600 joystick defining right hand stick) but most lefty sticks have the button contoured to the right hand, so when you flip the stick over and try to use it right handed, either one or both of 2 things happen. 1 it "smiles" at you, when a "frown" is a more optimal contour for joysticks, and 2) you have to backcock your left hand at a leftward angle, either or both of which become more uncomfortable right handed than just playing left handed.

Now I found a Street Fighter PS2/Org Xbox Anniversary Stick in the wild for like $20 many years ago. The only problem with it is that if I want the same righty formation on other systems, like Genesis, SNES, Saturn, PS1/2, Xbox, 360 and other systems, those adapters are not likely to have button remappers and are even less likely to have direction remappers. I have to rewire it at the source it is an accurate righty stick.

A couple of questions. 1) in order to mod it, is it as simple are reconnecting wires, or must I hire someone to solder it? 2) if it is as sipmle as reconnecting connectors, are there any directions on how to do it. 3) will I have to reconnect the Original Xbox and PS2 separately, or are they combined in one PCB? 4) how do both Retro adapters like the Tototek adapter as well as the modernizing and cross generation mappers work? Do they all tend to map it relative to the Street Fighter button layout of Quicks ion index, balanced on middle, hard on ring, super on pinky, meaning if it's correctly that way on a PS2 stick then the layouts will follow naturally without reprogramming? I need something for the dreamcast, preferable with VMU slot, and Game cube, I'd also like 360, Wii/ Wii U classic and Nintendo Switch adapters. The only problem with a switch converter is it doesn't do "double translations" like ps2-> Xbox One -> Switch or PS2-> PS3 -> Switch. going backwards, I'm looking for Saturn, N64, SNES, Genesis, TG16, NES, 7800, SMS, 5200, Coleco (both standard and super action, I've got games that only recognize the standard controller like Qbert's Qubes and The Activision Decathlon, and others just use the super action) Intellivision, 2600 and Bally Astrocade. If I had a game that would use it, I'd get one for the jaguar and 3DO, but the jaguar may not have pro controls, and the 3DO Tototek adapter doesn't have daisy chaining for multiplayer, and I have a Goldstar and that has some logical issues if it doesn't detect a daisy chain port.

If you want to see my real good ambidextrous design, visit http://www.56ok.org/Ambidextrous/index.htm I don't have much soldering skills, so if someone would like to complete my dream joystick there is a $250 deposit I'm willing to pay for the start of the job, which is more than most whole basic joysticks with no artwork. and more money in the future. I'll provide the controllers as both sacrifices to the alter of right handedness, as well as collateral to assure payment.

Blank wooden joystick cases?

February 1, 2015, 6:55 am

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I am looking for a blank wooden joystick case. Preferably mahogany or rosewood but will consider others. Every time I click on a link here, it tells me it's broken. I can't seem to find any info on where to buy one. Please help.

Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases.

May 18, 2010, 8:37 am

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Cases are now available on my site: Art's Hobbies

!!! 3/27/11 NEW Updates regarding Diamond Joints and Hitbox! Jump to post #702


LOTS OF INFO AND TONS OF PICS INCOMING!

***** PLEASE CHECK THE 2ND POST OF THIS THREAD FOR Q&A and FUTURE UPDATES . READ THAT FIRST IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS IN CASE YOUR QUESTION IS ALREADY ANSWERED! I WILL NO LONGER ANSWER QUESTIONS THAT ARE ALREADY ADDRESSED IN THAT POST. Please just take a moment to read the info...


These cases will be available on my website, Welcome to Art's Hobbies, in early September.
These are Cases ONLY. Not full fightsticks. Joysticks, Buttons, PCBs are not included

Hey guys! I would like to reveal a project I've been working on for the past few months, under the radar.

Some time late last year, parabellum asked:

"May I humbly suggest some additional services which you may wish to consider offering?

Simple plexi cases: If you offered a 'bolt it together yourself' case made from laser cut plexi, you could supply these with the screws, etc....and I think there would potentially be great demand for this. If the price could be kept down to around $50-$60, I think it would be a winner."

That suggestion has stuck with me and I haven't stopped thinking about it. Since working with plexiglass (acrylic) has its limitations, it took me some time to come up with a solution. Many months and lots of trial and errors later, finally... I believe I've found the solution and I bring you a completely modifiable DIY full acrylic case!

This case was designed with you, the modder, in mind with the ability to customize pretty much every aspect of the case... to make it your own! So lets take all these pieces...



And turn them into this! (Might be a tad hard to make out all the details at first, being that everything's clear and there's a lot of reflection in the pics. But the details will be more prominent as you scroll further down.







Lets look at one of the unique things to personalize your case. The Name plates!





The Name Plates act as extra support for the case, and it's a great place to cut your name/handle/short phrase to really identify your case. These are "Cut" through the acrylic, not "etched".

Now it's a little hard to see, with everything being clear, but on the back of the case there is a PCB section which has a couple of PCB holders and a wire hook to help with PCB placement and organization.



These holders can be adjusted/removed to fit your needs. While initially designed to fit the cthulhu boards, they can still hold hacked pads and other pcb's by a simple ziptie method or whatever you come up with. You don't have to use them, but they are there to help you out if you want them.



Here are some pics with a JLF and some buttons in place .










The pics above only show a glimpse of what can be done. Let me try to get into more details and options with more pics .

Lets say you want to replace the front panel now because you prefer a Neutrik Adapter rather than a cord opening. No problem, lets take a front panel with a Neutrik space...



now unscrew the four screws holding the front panel of the case...



place the buttons and Neutrik adapter on the new panel and screw back in...



and Done!




Or decided you no longer want buttons on the side panel? No prob, swap it.



Yep, it's that easy to change your mind.


Now lets look at some color options. Here's a Dark Blue theme.

Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Dark Blue
Name Plate & PCB Plate = Transparent Dark Blue
Front Panel = Clear; S/S Buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Clear
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Dark Blue
Bottom = Clear
JLF Mount = Transparent Dark Blue



The colors help distinguish some parts a little better, for instance the border design.







Lets try an Iron Man theme

Specs:
Top: Clear; Sega Blast City 6 Button
Top & Bottom Borders = Transparent Red
Name Plate & PCB plate = Transparent Red
Front Panel = Fluorescent Orange; S/S buttons and Neutrik
Back Panel = Fluorescent Orange
Left & Right side panel = Transparent Red
Bottom = Clear
Bottom Thin Plexi with 2 Artworks (one facing each side)
JLF Mount = Transparent Red

This shows Artwork placed on the bottom but facing top side to add a little background to future wiring. A thin bottom plexi is used to sandwich the artwork in place





The Fluorescent Orange reflected the flash so the front couldn't be seen. Below is without flash (ugly color turnout) but at least shows the Name Plate. Under regular light, you can see through to notice the name plate.



Flipping the case around, there's another artwork. Basically I place two artworks between a thin bottom plexi.



Here are some pics without the artwork so the design is more clear.






Here's some closeups of the Name Plates in these examples:





View of the case frames. Showing Borders, Name Plate, and PCB Plate which forms the skeletal structure of the case.





Those are just some basic color combinations. But basically, the color combinations and setups are up to your imagination? and what color/material stock I can get, lol.


Oh and top artwork you ask? But of course! Optional thin top plexi's will be available.





The artwork is cut a little smaller than the full top of the case. This gives a natural border, particularly for dark and opaque top colors. For clear tops, this makes the artwork look like it's floating in a frame.



Gotta show the popular Chun Li artwork by Stanley Lau.








Taking this even one step further, how about thin plexi options all around the case which essentially allows you to turn the entire case into swappable artwork.


Lets say I wanted to give my entire case a carbon fiber look with a high res print of a carbon fiber pattern. Then cut the image for the top and all four sides. Sandwich all pieces to all sides and...







Obviously a full artwork case swap is all up to your imagination. I plan to make one with a large cast of either Marvel or SSF4 all around the sides.


Alright, almost done. Sorry if I'm tiring you out with all the pics, lol.

Here's my working, complete prototype from about a month ago. A few minor changes were made since these pics. (Fluorescent Orange Border, Name Plate, PCB Plate and Left/Right Sides. Using a salvaged 360 TE PCB)








Here's probably a better closeup of the PCB holders and wire hook in action. Just using zip ties to keep them in place.




And last, but not least, here are what I call "Side Decors". Here's a sample of Acrylic shapes that can be screwed on to the side panels to further express yourself.




They will come in pairs so you can apply them corner to corner, or a piece per side. Or use two sets and have them corner to corner on opposite sides.



Apply them anywhere on the sides of the case, where room permits. Obviously if the area has buttons, these won't fit that area.



Other Side Decor colors and shapes will be made available.


Finally, those are all the pics I have so far . I will post more pics of other various colors when I have time. (I want to take pics of the lighter colors, and when I restock Fluorescent Blue. Also with opaque colors, and etching samples).

Here are some more highlights and details:

* Size: L 13 1/2" x W 8 1/2" x H 2 1/4". Height is about 2 1/2" with feet.

* Weight: Just case is 2.35 lbs; With JLF, Buttons and TE PCB is about 3.5 lbs (will obviously vary)
* Everything is put together by screws and what I call "Diamond Joints". There is absolutely no "gluing" or acrylic bonding agents needed.

* Because no permanent bonding is used, all parts can be easily swapped and changed to fit your style. Also, if by some unfortunate accident a part of the case gets damaged, you can simply replace the damaged part with a new one rather than worrying about replacing the entire case.

* Your personal Name Plate, cut with a short text of your choice. Not etched, actual cut through the acrylic.

* Top and Bottom panels are extended out past the rectangular outline of the case with rounded corners. This prevents issues with sharp corners.

* Popular button configurations will be available (ie: Vewlix, Blast City, T5, Midway, Capcom, etc).

* Various button options for the left/right side panels, as well as front panel including neutrik setup.

* Most parts will have etching options.

* Thin plexi and Artwork options available for top, bottom and sides.

* All pieces (except for diamond joints) are made with 1/8" acrylic so more colors can be available. (Majority of colors are more readily available in 1/8" thickness)

* PCB holders and wire loops to help with PCB and Wire organization.

So that's it for now. Hope you guys are excited as I am . I will showcase more on etching and other color combos when I get a chance. I will be working on an instructional video to show how everything is put together. Hopefully I'll get that up within a week or two.

I have also asked a few experienced modders to be testers and when they get the first cases they can share their personal experiences. But from my personal experience, and one other's, the results have been great!

Thanks again for everyone's support . And shout out to parabellum, where ever you are buddy, thanks for giving me a challenge .

Got Questions? Look at the bottom post first.

Need help with arcade stick

December 20, 2017, 2:42 am

≫ Next: Show us your Project Boxes!

≪ Previous: Art's Hobbies - DIY Acrylic Cases.

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Got myself a mad catz te2+. Take it out, plug it in. USB not recognized or something like that. Aight so fiddling around for awhile I set it in the back end directly connected to the motherboard. It worked and the drivers automatically installed themselves. yay.

Now going in tekken, everything works fine until after a couple of matches the inputs bug out or something. tilting the stick either didn't make it register or it kept walking for 2 secs even tho I released the stick.

Anyone know whats wrong?

Also I apologize incase this is the wrong place to ask for.

Show us your Project Boxes!

April 5, 2009, 7:17 pm

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I'm working on modding my SE Fightstick so that it has a 360 PCB and an MC Cthulhu on the inside, and also a DB25 port to connect to outside project boxes. I'm waiting for a DB25 2-way switchbox to arrive so I can switch the signals between the interior PCBs and the DB25 port. So far I've built 3 project boxes: one for 360, one for the Cthulhu, and one for Genesis. Here they are:



My 360 project box, a boring Radio Shack Project Box (6 inches by 3 inches by 2 inches I believe)






An MC Cthulhu wired to a DB25 connector and built into a Sonic Spinball Genesis case.







A Sega Genesis 6-button pad hacked, wired to a DB25 connector, and built into an Ecco the Dolphin Genesis case.




Here's the DB25 port on the FightStick. It was my first time using a Dremel (obviously); I need to find a substance that will fill in that extra space for a perfect fit.