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Nintendo switch padhack thread

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Made this thread to post up information on padhacking Nintendo switch controllers. Might be useful for some building a dedicated Nintendo Switch fightstick or doing dual/tri/quad mod for their existing fightstick.

I'll start...

Horipad for the Nintendo Switch
3RgLuAG.jpg
D-pad is removable and meh. At least it has a turbo (rapid fire) button.

411oCpg.jpg
Back of the controller are the location of eight screws to open the controller shell.

1xHPwjy.jpg
The PCB is held with 2 screws.

UcwuAGo.jpg
There are 4 screws that held the left and right PCB triggers. The contact pads are covered with black coating, thus you have to scrape it off to expose the copper for solder to stick. Yellow highlight are their respective signal.

- PCB is common ground.
- PCB dimension is 114mm x 60.5mm
- Need to scrape off black coating in order for the solder to stick.
- Has turbo (rapid fire).
- Works on PC and unofficially PS3 (all inputs works except for Home button).


PowerA Nintendo Switch Wired Controller Plus
awpT53o.jpg
Has a micro USB port but is not wireless. Interchangable thumb sticks. Comes in two flavors: Mario in red or Zelda in black/gold (pictured).

4t4otqx.jpg
Back of the controller are the location of eight screws to open the controller shell.

AOxk14U.jpg
The PCB is held with 2 screws. Solder points on the back of the PCB make it easier to solder signal wires and are clearly labeled. Yes, those are weights on the rumble mounts.

bSX1OXn.jpg
Closeup of the contact pad on the front PCB. Noticed the two contact points that are bridged... those would be the signal. The other contact points are ground.

Incfti1.jpg
The solder points for the signals as labeled and highlighted in yellow.

- PCB is common ground.
- PCB dimensions is 113mm x 51mm
- Back of the PCB has spots where you can solder; front of the PCB has contact point that are large, easy to solder, and does not have any black coating.
- Has a Micro USB port.
- Works on PC and unofficially PS3 (all inputs works except for Home button).

Feel free to contribute to this thread for any further information on padhacking and such for Nintendo Switch controllers.

Hori RAP 4 to NEO GEO Question

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Hi everyone. First post.

I am new to arcade joysticks and I'd like to get a Hori RAP 4, not sure the exact model yet. I'd like to wire this thing for NEO GEO (db15). My plan is to buy quick connect wires and solder them to a NEO GEO cable with the appropiate NEO GEO db15 connector. If I'm correct, the joystick is a Hayabusa. How do I find the correct connector with wires for this joystick? Also, is there a known scheme for wiring joysticks for using the internal PCBs and "straight wiring" for use on a NEO GEO system simultaneously? I'm willing and able to solder in switches, if that becomes necessary.

Also, I'd prefer not to use a converter.


Thanks in advance for the help!

Sega HSS-0136 Mod Work Log

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Hello and Welcome to my HSS-0136 Work Log.

The Sega HSS-0136 is a 1 player equivalent of the larger and more famous Sega HSS-130
which is a fully functional replica of a Astro City Control panel made for the Sega Saturn and later the Dreamcast.

The Sega Virtua Stick HSS-0136 is not to be confused by it failed US counterpart
The Sega Saturn Virtua Stick MK 800112
44509417-260x260-0-0_Virtua+Stick+for+Sega+Saturn.jpg
The MK 800112

Keep in mind this project is far from complete at the time of writing but I hope to provide insight and assistance to others hoping to do the same mod.

First I got a Dreamcast Variant of the HSS-0136 Virtua Stick. Re-branded as the "DC GAMEMATE"

HSS-0136before.png
Before tear down

The Words DC Game mate and Fighting Stick are just foil labeled applied to a preexisting Sega Saturn HSS-0136. Yes at the factory the Sega Saturn HSS-0136 was converted quickly to Dreamcast with a few foil labeled applied on the top panel and this
SStoDCConverter001-1.jpg
A Sega made Sega Saturn to Dreamcast converter.

Too bad this one was broke before I received it too. Some of the wires from the dreamcast cord came loose. I tried to re-solder them back to the board. but unfortunately they were in the wrong order. As when I used it I burned out the controller ports on my Dreamcast.

Ok, lets go Repair the Dreamcast controller board.
Using this guide
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-repair-a-dreamcast-with-dead-controller-por/
I replaced the burned out Resistor-Fuse with two 10 ohm metal oxide resistors I got from Radioshack. A less than $2 repair.

DSCF1479.jpg
DSCF1480.jpg
DSCF1478.jpg
There is the location of the bad resistor-fuse, I neglected to take a picture of the completed repair
but you should see how its done in that Instructible link I gave above.

The red and black wires on the controller board are from a unrelated mod where I replace the cmos battery with a standard 3 volt coin battery.

Okay back to the HSS-0136 Virtua stick.

I manage to peel off the top panel art with out destorying it, by soaking the whole top panel in HOT water then carefully and slowly pealing off the art. Remove the panel from the rest of the arcade stick first before water submersion.

HSS-0136Panelart001-1.jpg
A scan I did of the panel art

Inside I found an Ascii Joystick and knock of buttons, both are Bantha fodder.
Earlier HSS -0136 sticks had Seimtsu parts, later on (especially the DC variant) Sega to save money switched to Ascii made parts. HSS-0136 with Ascii parts have 29 mm button holes, so just like the Sega Agetec stick for the dreamcast the button holes needed to be widen or a replacement panel needs to be made. I also suspect the holes for the joystick mount is off from Sanwa/Seimtsu standards so I have to drill new mount holes later on as well. LS-40, LS-55 and LS-56 fits in where the stock Ascii stick was.

2011-09-29224610.jpg
The button daughter board. Note the cut Ribbon cable.

You have to unsolder each button, or snap the buttons off, as in a mod you not using this daughter board again. I saved it to test the traces to find out the wiring order.

I will add more as my Project progresses.

Looking to LED mod my stick the hard way, what has changed in the last few years?

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I have a custom stick with PS-14KN buttons that I built a few years ago. I always wanted to do some meme stuff with it, light up on press buttons etc, but hate the idea of buying those SMD custom disc LEDs for more than the cost of the button each. I just stumbled upon ridiculously cheap equipment from China, 100 white leds for $2, teensy knockoff boards for $2, terminal strips 10 for $2, absurd deals. Ideally what I want to do is find a bunch of small LEDs, glue them to the inside of my buttons, wire them up to a daughter board, connect that to my main board (Teensy 2.0) and get it all going, but it seems a lot has changed since I last was around here, so I have some questions for the old tech gurus.
  1. What happened to toodles?
  2. What type of LEDs fit within PS-14KNs? Going with 3mm 5v by default.
  3. How do people control their LEDs nowadays? Is there a mainstream board?
  4. Does anybody even attempt this anymore? I googled for a bit and could not find any guides that go into specifical details, almost all of them use the disk SMD LEDs or do it the hard way but don't show what they did.

Thanks!

CNC/CAD Files?

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Hey all,

I recently revived my old TE stick with a Brook UFB and Phoenix's custom front panel PCB. With this minor experience I'm now interested in building a full custom box.

I notice a lot of great builds but a lack of CNC or laser cutting files. Is anyone willing to share theirs? I know there are button layout templates but looking for more detailed full CNC or lasercut build. Specifically, advance panel mounting layering design (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/mounting_layering.html).

Thanks in advance!

Brook PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB Thread

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Hey Everyone,

Brook just announced a new 40mm x 40mm Square PCB called the "Fight Board". Myself and few SRK tech talk members had some early access to the board and have been testing it for the past few weeks. With the help of our feedback they are ready for retail production and will be available through Brook's retail channels worldwide later this month (November 2015) at around $40 (US).

tUFSXnj.jpg

Features:
- Auto detects PS3 and PS4
- No 8 Minute Timeout on PS4
- SOCD Cleaner
- Firmware Updatable
- Optional Access to Turbo, Analog Controls (via firmware Update), TouchPad & Touchpad button, & LEDs.
- Common Ground

fD9AyRG.jpg

*One thing to note is that It requires soldering to access the inputs and does not come with screw terminals. So break out those irons...

As far as initial performance goes myself and @wazwuz have found the board to perform slightly faster or atleast equal to a FC4 pad hacked board. We will be testing further and with more detail when the retail firmware is available.

Brook via @gogo.zippy will be closely monitoring this thread throughout its initial release and as always will be available for questions and feedback.

Brook ufb in madcatz te2+

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Does anyone have experience wiring brook ufb into madcatz te2+ ?

I have installed it a few days ago and managed to wire up existing usb cable to the board, ps button, all sanwa buttons and joystick. (btw. I did not solder anything directly onto the board, I used connectors for both sides and just soldered the wires together, seemed much safer than accidentally frying the ufb. (Heat shrink rubber tubing was very helpful for this)

I wanted to ask if anyone has managed to successfully connect the l3 and r3 buttons? It doesn’t look like there are any GRND connections for these buttons on the madcatz?There is a VCC and a bunch of LED connections in the same group but no ground?

Any info would be helpful.

Need a Modder/Builder in Your Area? Check This Post.

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So I was reading the Think Aloud, and people were talking about how to inform people of their services. Not to mention you always see threads of "I need a modder" posted here and there. I figured a really easy way would be a thread for people to look at a quick glance and to see what modders are in their state.

Not everyone likes the idea of shipping their stick across the country to have some guy tinker with it, so why not deal with some one you can shake hands with?

So, take a look at the list. If they are in your state, click on their name and it will take you to their post where they also list their modding knowledge.

I am in no way liable if a modder can not preform the service he/she offers. This is simply a list for people to find who is close to them saying they(the modder) can do the work.

If you would like to be added, respond with your State/Providence/Territory/etc. (Please, if outside of the US, include your country), County/Town, and your modding abilities. A link to your trading thread with feedback would also be beneficial. (If you have one.)

With this stated! If you are a modder with out feedback, start up a thread for your services. Then have SRK members post and give you feedback after doing work for them. This will help foster a community of trusted modders that people can turn to in any area if they need help.

(I do not include myself in this list, because I do not find the time to mod sticks for others. However, if your stick has been modded but isn't working, I am solid at troubleshooting. I reside in South Jersey, Camden County.)

Any feedback would be great, so let me have it. :china:

USA
  • Alabama
  • Alaska
  • Arizona
FrankCastleAZ - Phoenix
souji5 - West Phoenix
  • Arkansas
  • California
RoyalFlushTZ - Canyon Country/Los Angeles County
|Galen| - Inland Empire
Ouroborus - San Francisco
BartStation - San Francisco/Peninsula
DanAdamKOF - Sunnyvale
jjordona - Vacaville
jdm714 - Westminster/Orange County
  • Colorado
  • Connecticut
  • Delaware
  • Florida
CanadianDstryr - Central FL (Near Orlando) Hiatus
  • Georgia
  • Hawaii
  • Idaho
  • Illinois
  • Indiana
  • Iowa
Dracula X - Des Moines
  • Kansas
  • Kentucky
  • Louisiana
  • Maine
  • Maryland
Darksakul -Reisterstown
spenzalii - Washington DC
  • Massachusetts
blueNINE - Amherst
@JRDIBBs - Quincy
  • Michigan
  • Minnesota
  • Mississippi
  • Missouri
  • Montana
  • Nebraska
  • Nevada
Vicko - Las Vegas
  • New Hampshire
  • New Hampshire
  • New Jersey
AlbinoD90 - Somerset
  • New Mexico
  • New York
hakdizzle - New York City - Brooklyn
networkingyuppy - New York City
  • North Carolina
  • North Dakota
  • Ohio
  • Oklahoma
  • Oregon
  • Pennsylvania
PaperTigre - Philadelphia/Glenside
  • Puerto Rico
  • Rhode Island
  • South Carolina
  • South Dakota
  • Tennessee
  • Texas
Half-Ro - Irving
  • Utah
Lemony Vengeance - Salt Lake City/Provo Area
  • Vermont
  • Virginia
Strogg - Reston
Gummo - Virginia Beach
  • Virgin Islands
  • Washington
  • West Virginia
  • Wisconsin
DaRabidDuckie - La Crosse
  • Wyoming
Canada
  • Alberta
  • British Columbia
  • Ontario
  • Quebec
FreedomGundam - Montreal

France

So what happened to Gamerfinger?

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Tried to order some Gamerfinger HBSF-G2 buttons, but it seems that they are discontinued? Does anyone know what happened, why is it not possible to order these buttons anymore?

If you build websites avoid WPMU DEV

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Just had an awful experience with WPMU DEV, I bought a plugin from them and it was so rotten it actually took my website offline for a few days. Their support was absolutely useless too. Googling around, it would turn out I should have known better than to go with them. A lot of their positive reviews on closer inspection look fake and there are many reports of them actually stealing money (including a chldren's hospital!) so I have logged into my bank account online to block them before they try to rob me too now.

So with WPMU DEV being awful and thieving, can somebody reccomend a good plugin store?

SNES classic adapter to use an arcade stick

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Is there such a device or any way to be able to use say a Razer Panther or any PS4 stick on the SNES mini. The 8bitdo seems like it would work, but the sticks arent wireless. Is there something out there like it?

What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting.

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The "what stick/controller should I get" Guide.

Warning: This thread is heavily opinionated as are the nature of any product review. Movie and game reviews are heavily opinionated as well.
As well all have contrasting views on what is good/acceptable, as rule from the moderators, we shall not devolve into a VERSUS thread.
Personal opinions are fine, trying to argue that your favorite stick is better will not be tolerated. Do not confuse opinion with fact and vise versa.
Your Results/Mileage will vary. And don't ask for us to make a choice for you, I am not holding anyone's hand.

When it comes to my own reviews, I will not go through and point out what is my own opinions from what is fact (as my prerogative), and I encourage everyone to do your own fact finding research before you make a final conclusion for yourself. That is what google is for, finding your own research and making your own decisions.

Stop asking for Promo codes and sales for any Mad Catz or other products.
Mad Catz has a front page ad on SRK's homepage. If there any codes to be had it be ether there or a insider like MarkMan will share with us the good news via a post in Tech Talk.
You will find out when everyone else dose.

I will come back and edit and update this thread as needed so if you spot something wrong, let me know. And you other experts on Tech Talk, feel free to add your own wisdom and insight.
Yeah I am not having that any more, because I am a jerk.

Keep in mind I am purposely leaving out many limited edition and/or collectors sticks, as it goes outside the intentions of the guide. Collectors are going to collect.

ATTENTION ALL READERS
And I also like to keep custom sticks off the thread entirely, Custom sticks are outside of the scope of this guide and is considered off topic. If you want a custom stick go to the
Need a Modder in Your Area? or you can try the Trading Post.

If you have questions for a mod try the search function here at SRK or
The Absolute Noobie Thread Or The Info Thread: Rules FAQs and Tutorials
Please do not post build questions here.

And do not ask about Converters, Converts can be found here.
Converter Compatibility Thread

Quick tip on searching the forums. Courtesy of RosserRooster
If you ever want to search SRK google : site:shoryuken.com and then beside it put what your looking for bookmark it It makes searching SRK and so much easier and efficient

SRK vets should really advertise this more maybe it would cut down on some of the repetitive question...nah it wouldn't because people are too lazy to search for answers


At no time I will rate Sanwa or Seimitsu with each other or IL and Happs, or Japanese vs US/European vs Korean style parts.

Before I start with the cool part of this guide, we will first cover three more important objectives.
And what you need to consider above all else.
  • Needs
  • Wants
  • Budget
Needs. This covers what you absolutely have to have, strip down and basic. With any purchase this is what you should think of first. When it comes to Video Game controls this is usually covered by the Default game pad, only a few games require specialized controls or controls modified for those who have special needs. Example a One handed controller for a gamer who only have one useable arm.
I am assuming most people reading this guide now are hardcore fighter or arcade game fans who the regular d-pad is not cutting it for you, as we all hear complaints over the Xbox 360 or PS3 D-pad.

Wants. This is what you have your heart set for. For most people this is your end results.

Budget. This is how much money you have to spend. Budget is the more realistic and sobering part of the purchase process. Typically a stick will run you 60 to 250 dollars U.S. retail this figure will change with what the normal market price is in your region of the world.
Any stick you find less than $50 is not worth your money and breaks easy. Sticks more than $200 are no longer considered Beginner Sticks.
My general rule of thumb on these things: when in doubt, pass. I'd rather pay the few extra dollars and get one that I KNOW works than one that may or may not. My peace of mind is worth a few extra dollars

If you find some cheap stick or pad somewhere from questionable sources, consider it highly risky and pass. Usually what is too good to be true usually is.

Keep in mind if you are broke (Budget), and the default game pad works fine enough for you (Need) that these 2 will and should over ride your Wants.

Now I am also going to cover other features of each stick/ controller here. These factors are also important to cover but goes secondary to the above. I be using this on almost every stick I list here.
  • Quality
  • Reliability
  • Ease of Modification
  • Purpose or special use
Quick Short Cuts
Mad Catz
Hori
Sega
American/ European Style , Korean Style, Qanba and others

Unless otherwise noted, each sticks are for the PS3 and the Xbox 360.

Read about PlayStation 4 sticks here
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195854/ps3-ps4-retail-arcade-sticks-list-with-information-facts-photos-etc-in-progress/p1

Difficulty Scale for Modding
From a scale of 1 to 5. This will factor in installing Buttons, Joysticks and replacement panels, and to a lesser extend PCB replacement.
This will not factor actual Dual-mods, replacement art or any painting.
  1. Easy: Standard parts drops right into place, reasonable access to all parts.
  2. Medium Easy: Still uses standard parts, access can be difficult/ time consuming
  3. Moderate Difficulty: Requires minor case modding or appropriate mount plates
  4. Medium hard: Requires some physical tool use to fit parts into place.
  5. Hard: Requires Heavy modding using tools to cut, grind or drill to fit replacement parts.
Last but not least I ask readers to go outside of this thread and do your research. Read reviews here on SRK and reviews on online stores and in magazines. Weigh the Pros and Cons before deciding which stick to get. And stop posting new threads on what stick you should buy, its why this thread is sticked.

How to Win at eBay.
Keep in mind eBay is not an online store. eBay is a listing and auction service, you are buying from that individual seller not eBay. And Every Seller is different.
For Experienced sellers who sold hundreds if not thousands, Look for sellers with a Feedback score of 99.5% rating or better. Huge time sellers with a 95% or lower are to be avoided like the plague. Pay attention to the text in the negative feedbacks, check to see if the negative feedbacks buyers actually have an issue or they are just jerks.
For people with a hundred sales or less, if they do not have a 100% rating, avoid them.

*When Bidding
Never, ever bid early. You only drive the price up higher.
Wait till the last possible minute, sometimes the last possible twelve seconds.
Also decide in advance the maximum you want to bid.

*How to know if you have a good price or not
Swing over to the reviews on PAGE 1 (it is required for this thread). I did not list the current price of a stick, I listed there original MSRP (or close to it). With the exception for huge collectors’ items avoid sticks that price them higher than I have them listed. (Examples Comic Con TE, Chun Li TE is going to be priced higher than other TEs) Many sellers have a terrible habit of over inflating the price of their sticks thinking the Market will bear, do not fall for it.
Also beware for sticks that are market high and are not in NEW/ Close to NEW condition. DO NOT pay full price on "customized sticks" with a few exceptions. Otherwise only pay full price on sticks that are keep stock.

Those exceptions are:
* Sticks that do not come as Full Sanwa or Full Seimitsu (they used knock off Parts instead of authentic parts) are modded to be all authentic buttons and joystick. Example finding a Mad Catz WWE Brawl Stick that has a JLF and Sanwa buttons installed. You should not pay any more than (approx) 10% more than the cost of the stick + cost of the new parts.
* Sticks that has been professionally Dual-Moded (if in doubt ask someone in SRK TT) The pricing should be cost of the stick + Dual Mod PCB Cost + 10% to 25% of the stick for labor.
* Older era (Decades old sticks such as SNES and Genesis/MegaDrive Era and back) sticks that are refurbish. Many of these are collector items.

As for buying online outside the United States? This is a tricky issue as each countries fighting game scene is different.
The market strong in Parts of Asia (like Japan or S. Korea), Europe (mostly Western Europe), Australia and Canada (maybe Mexico) otherwise you have to eat heavily shipping costs.
Tip for you guys overseas is try to find a seller in your home country first if possible, better if he is in your home province/area.
If that not possible look at neighboring Countries that are friendly to your own. Example You are living in Span, try a French, British or German Seller if you can't find someone in Spain (yes I know they are not right next to each other).

Here is another VERY GOOD guide for buying on eBay
It is on a website for cameras and photography but everything on that guide applies to arcade sticks as well. Just that all their examples are photography related.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/ebay/
P.S. Ken Rockwell is also having great advice and tips on photography.

Also there is no such thing as a "BEGINNER STICK" so do not ask. There are no Training Wheels in the FGC.

Also there is the thread FrankCastleAZ started, I am defaulting anything said to his thread.

DEFINITIVE PS4/PS3 RETAIL ARCADE STICKS LIST WITH INFO/FACTS/PHOTOS/ADVANTAGES/DISADVANTAGES/ETC
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195854/definitive-ps4-ps3-retail-arcade-sticks-list-with-info-facts-photos-advantages-disadvantages-etc/p1

Madcatz arcade stick drivers 32bit and 64bit

Guide to wiring Cerberus advanced install to te/se pcb with pictures!!!

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hey guys yenjoi here and I decided I would put this together to help some people who have problems or don't really know where to start if they accidently picked up or their stick isn't compatible with the easy install of the Cerberus.

one of the benefits of the board is that it can get incredibly small and that helps hide dual mods like the past. I really enjoy this board and for sure recommend it for other modders anyways lets start!!!!

I Do not have a dremel on hand but I hope to soon. so what I did was I had some super duper sharp shears and shed off a good amount off the left side. the reason I didn't trim just the pcb out is because this particular stick is a led mod as well so in order to supply power to the led board I kept the extra vcc and ground that is on the board just to make it easier on me and well look better too.

so lets start with the board. the board already comes labeled but I took the liberty to label it even more so you for sure do not get confused I even place where you are supposed to put the usb wires from you old pcb.

eOUnrSm.jpg

you will see everything there. Your attack buttons, your directions, your led player indicator lights, and your start select guide buttons. this is just as a reference picture so you do not get confused. just to note is that I have the board orientated this particular way for a reason. don't get confused if your board doesn't match it just might be in the other direction :)

K secondly lets start wiring I already I have a TE pcb that although works with the easy install the advanced install is about $20 cheaper and well is hidden more. This second picture will show you where to wire to the bottom of the original te pcb starting with the buttons

CuSNEyZ.jpg

its easy to get lost on this board so make sure you wire everything correctly so that everything works the way you want it to. when I wired this particular mod. I had no plans to wire the 4p and 4k buttons. so if you want to omit them then you do not have to wire them in order for the dual mod to work you can omit as many buttons as you so choose to.

allright now that you have your buttons and start select and home all wired up time to wire the directional inputs and the usb wires that are from your original pcb board. simply follow the guide and you should have no problem. also the board is already nicely labeled underneath. but this is just as a visual reference for some people who need it

MEEGwRF.jpg

this particular image is in my opinion a great reference for future mods because well. Originally I had no clue as to where to connect the original pcb wires to the Cerberus board because the #1 rule to dual mods is that everything must be connected for power. allright well now you have everything all wired now its time to test it out. since this is a TE stick what I did was load two games on steam KOF xiii and USF4 the reason is because usf4 can only read xbox 360 controllers from what I have experienced so load up the game and plug in your stick holding jab so that it boots to xbox 360 mode and everything should be wired and acting correctly. Now the kof xiii the reason I choose this game is because it auto dectects what kind of board you are using. so load up kof xiii and when you go to controls it should say Cerberus 1.1 as long as you have not held the jab button while plugging in the stick. Also you can simply check in windows by going to devices and connecting your stick. if you hold jab should come up as xbox 360 controller if you don't it should say Cerberus if they both show up success!! you have successfully dual modded your stick with the advanced method.

ceSMSSv.jpg

ifp8eim.jpg

now depending on how you install this it will be exposed or not im going to show you how mine turned out it also has the fgwidget installed at this point see you would never see the Cerberus pcb :)

IL8Yoy5.jpg

close it all up and boom your end result.

ueT1ear.jpg

LJE4iP5.jpg

this particular stick is up for sale as well :) so if you are interested let me know also let me know if you had success and this helped you install this mod. pretty simple but doesn't really show you everything I hope this guide covered any questions you had previously and if not well ask away and I will do my best to help you out

Qanba Drone On Lap?

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Hey guys,

I'm looking for a fairly cheap stick with modding capabilities, and this seems to be the leading contender for my purposes.

It is somewhat small and light (though larger and heavier than the Hori Mini). Some people complain that it can't sit still in their lap, and other's say it may move a bit, but nothing to worry about. Anyone here have any first-hand experience with these?

Also, if it does move around a lot, is there anything that can be done? Would adding some weight inside the housing help?

Thanks.

My Sanwa Joystick isn't working

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Ok, so I bought all of the parts for building my own fight stick to use on SFV on PS4.

All of the buttons are working but the joystick isn't. I have it properly connected with the cable but I can't get anything from it.

What can I do to find out if it's the cable, the port on the encoder or the stick itself?

-EDIT-
Does my encoder only being a PC encoder and not PC/PS3 encoder have anything to do with it?

shorter joystick shafts

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Has anyone tried drilling a hole in their ball top or bat top to move the nut deeper so that they could shorten the length of the stick? I noticed focus attack sells a short sanwa jlf shaft, but was wondering if there is a solution without having to buy something new.

Installing a Brook UFB into a Mad Catz TE1

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Hey guys.

I know there is a brook thread, but I don't know how many back and forth messages this may take. So I wanted to keep it in its own thread.

I just got the Brook UFB. After looking inside my TE1, I have seen a bunch of wires that don't have a place to be connected to the UFB. So her are my questions.

1.) On the TE1 PCB there is an extra cable for the USB called SGND. So it has 5v, D-, D+, GND, SGND. The brook PCB only has the V, D-, D+, GND. So what do I do with the SGND cable for the USB?

2.) I assume the 5v for the USB on the TE1 PCB is the same as the V on the UFB PCB, is that correct?

3.) The TE1 has the START and BACK buttons on the back of the case. The Brook UFB doesn't have a BACK connection on it, but there is a SELECT available. Am I supposed to connect the BACK button on the TE1 to the SELECT on the Brook UFB?

4.) The wiring diagram for the Brook UFB has the HOME button sharing the ground with the START/SELECT. But on the TE1 the Home button is on the turbo button and LS/DP/RS mini PCB. So it doesn't share a ground with the START/SELECT button. However on the turbo button and LS/DP/RS mini PCB there is a ground. Can I use that ground and the free ground connection on the Brook UFB when connecting the HOME button?

5.) On the turbo button and LS/DP/RS mini PCB, which connections do I use to connect it to the Brook UFB? There are clear points for the LEFT STICK and RIGHT STICK. But I don't know which would be the DP connections as the Brook UFB shows it needs to cables for the DP connection.

6.) On the turbo button and LS/DP/RS mini PCB there are also a bunch of connections that have D designated before them. There is one for all the buttons as well as the bumper and trigger buttons. Can you tell me what these are for?

7.) The last question I have for now is if I should possibly just bypass the turbo button and LS/DP/RS mini PCB? I would like to use it, but there are so many connection points that it could get out of hand. There reason I want to use it is because I don't have extra buttons for the Home button or the LS/DP/RS switch.

Alternatively, Could I just wire up the buttons and the joystick and leave the Home and LS/DP/RS switches disconnected? Or does the Brook UFB need all the buttons connected to work?

Thanks for the help guys. I have checked on Youtube and there are some installations videos but nothing with the Mad Catz TE1, which has a different mini PCB inside that the others don't have.

Sorry for all the questions and wall of text.

The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!

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Welcome Sheets:
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf

MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip

Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/

Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.

Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.

Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis

Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.

_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:

Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.

Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.

Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)

Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)

Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread

Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.

Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.

Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.

Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.

Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power

Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack

Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.

Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.

Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.

Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.

Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework

Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:

PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS

PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select

PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)

1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X

Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A

Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start

Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks

NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)

NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A

NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start

SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select

Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L

3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop

TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)

Normal:
1K: II
2K: I

Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I

Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I


Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/

Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.

Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.

Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.

Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.

Q: What about converter support?
A:
Tested as working:
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)

Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
____________
ChimpSMD Questions

Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.

Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577

Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.

Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.

Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.

Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.

Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp

Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306


Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3:
[] /\  R1  L1
 X  O  R2  L2
For Xbox360:
X  Y  RB  LB
A  B  RT  LT
You can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.

Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.

Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.

Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.

Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:

If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:

Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)

If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.

Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html

Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.

Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.

PS360+ and PS4

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Does the PS360+ still work on the ps4? I want to buy one and I want to make sure that it will still work on the ps4 even though it has the 8 minute time out.
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