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PS3 Mad Catz Arcade FightStick PRO Dual Mod - Questions

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Hi everyone

I have just got my stick for about weeks now. I am playing on PS3 at the moment, however, I have heard that there are more players and better connection on XBox for SSFIVAE, therefore, I am thinking to switch to xbox live. The thing is, I might still play on PS3 with some of my friends. So I was looking for a way that I could use one stick for both console. There is dual mod as I have researched, however, all I have found is 360 to PS3. I couldn't find anything PS3 to 360. Does that matter? I thought for Akishop, I will only need to change the plate inside the stick, right?

Other than that, the stick I own. I am not sure if that can be modded. The tutorial I found online, they can easily take the "top" apart, by un-screwing the screws. For my stick, the "Arcade FightStick Pro Fighter X Tekken Cross for PS3". There is no screws on top of the stick and the bottom of the stick. And I am to afraid to forced it to open.

So there is 2 option. 1. Find someone who knows how to mod the PS3 stick to 360 (That's why I'm here!) 2. Return the stick, before the return policy wears off. Get a 360, forget about PS3.

Also, If I mod the stick, will there be any effect to the stick? like laggy, or the life-time of the stick in general.

My old card died

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My computer is 6 years old and hasn't had any upgrades since it was built. After many diagnostics, I have determined that my Geforce 8800GTS 640mb no longer works from hardware failure. I'm not looking to upgrade just yet, but what would be a good cheap short-term replacement for it?

Buying hitbox metal plate bundle, is this all i need to mod my TE please?

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Hey guys,

Want to mod my TE into a hitbox, i am in the uk and found arcadeforge that does the metal panel with a jlf cable thing and plexi. Is that everything i would need bar the buttons or will i still need to be doing some soldering etc?

Here is the link to the bundle: linky linky

I am just confused as the description for the items goes on about a sega layout and a harness jlf thing. I am assuming this is a typo and its the hitbox and the adapter cable i need, i just want confirmation from those in the know as i have never done anything like this before. Thanks all

8 way = 8 corners?

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There is a moron GGPO player insisting me that 8-way gate means 8 corners. AFAIK 8-way means 8 directions so once the square gate (4 corners) allows you to reach all directions, both square and octo are 8-way gates! Am i right?

Otherwise i am the stupid one on this link: youtube.com/watch?v=82Z7TPC1L_E

Need Help - Lag Spikes

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Hello guys,
I need some help because since I bought my new PC (AlienWare X51) a week ago, I have some annoying spikes lag every 1 or 2 minutes which completely freeze my screen for a sec which is very annoying in SF4.
Here is what I see on the task manager when those lags happen: http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/1146/lagspikesf.png (the last spike).

Does anyone have any ideas on how I could correct this?

All my drivers are updated, I'm on windows 8. And those lags also happen on other games, so It's not specific to SF4.
It's been a week that I'm trying to find out what causes this!

Thanks guys!

Official FA Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller Thread

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Hey all,

Most players in Tech Talk are familiar with the works of Eugene Andruszczenko (aka 32Teeth), the creator of the highly programmable Sparky PWM RGB LED Controller. With his blessing to work with this open source project, and the help of Paradise Arcade, we now offering a great version of this product at Focusattack.com. It is shipping today and worldwide for just $32.95.

Purchase the Sparky RGB LED Controller at focusattack.com

What is the Sparky?

For those who aren't familiar with the Sparky RGB LED Controller is a programmable RGB LED companion light up activation controller for pushbuttons on gaming fightsticks. The controller allows you to create unlimited color combinations through varying levels of red green and blue, along with changing colors upon a combination of button press. It allows you to program lighting patterns either manually through specific button combinations, or via the "Configurator" - a multi-platform application that gives you total control over your color transitions.
sparky-pwm-2a__89871_zoom.jpg

Sparky PWM Features

Among other features the Sparky PWM has the following:
  • Ability to display the full spectrum of color through RGB LEDs
  • Support for 6 or 8 button configurations
  • Ability to map color to specific buttons or button combinations (ie assign Red to Light Punch, Blue to Medium Kick, or Orange to Focus Attack (MP+MK))
While the Sparky PWM itself isn't new, the redesigned Sparky comes with 2 wiring harnesses to ease installation across buttons:
  • 5-wire RGB and ground harness
  • 16-wire power and .110 quick disconnect harness for buttons
To make the installation a solder-less experience, we currently include 34 wiring connectors. The connectors allow you to insert wires into the ports to replicate an electrical connection. Four per button are provided, plus one for each of the power connections for total of 34 connectors (8 x 4 plus 2, or 34 total).

Programming the Sparky PWM

The "Configurator" is a Windows and Mac OS X compatible application that interfaces with your joystick's LEDs through its USB port. Once connected, the application lets you choose your schema (button or button combination), then choose the color you want. You can also choose fade/fade out options. Once completed, the action is displayed on your button LED directly on your controller. You can download it on the Sparky website.

http://sparky.32teeth.org/downloads.html

So what is the point of this thread?

This thread is meant to address questions you might have regarding the redesigned Sparky PWM, plus how to program your Sparky to it's full potential. Several experienced builders will visit the thread to post notes, videos and answer some questions regarding both units. These people include
  • 32Teeth - creator of the original Sparky PWM LED Controller has offered to post helpful notes once he gets the new Sparky.
  • armi0024 - founder of Paradise Arcade Shop has expertise in many types of LED installs and components.
  • Nerrage - well known and respected member of SRK's Tech Talk team and founder of the non-profit organization Sticks for Joy.
And of course, you. We definitely welcome any feedback and helpful answers that you can give to players that ask questions here. We hope that this thread may complement the existing Sparky PWM thread here on SRK.

Resources

Related YouTube playlists Original Sparky RGB LED Controller Thread on SRK

Thanks for reading!

Button Masher is a windows tool to help you analyze and improve your execution

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0.30 version of button masher doesn't support joystick with HAT (i.e. TE sticks, etc)

here's a version that supports it, windows 64-bit binary included

http://www.2shared.com/file/mh6DyLNv/buttonmasher.html

if you are on win32, download Python 2.7.4 Windows Installer

http://www.python.org/getit/

and pygame for python 2.7

pygame-1.9.1.win32-py2.7.msi

http://www.pygame.org/download.shtml

then run

python.exe buttonmasher.py




Button Masher
v0.3.0
Copyright (C) 2004 Matthew Bennett
web: http://buttonmasher.sourceforge.net
email: cascadeofprawns@users.sourceforge.net


This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation; either version 2 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.

This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
GNU General Public License (LICENSE.TXT) for more details.


Description
Button Masher is a simple tool to help you analyze and improve your execution
of fighting game moves, combos, etc. It displays each joystick input as it
happens, along with the frame number of the change, similar to the display
in the practice mode of some games.

Button Masher is written in Python (http://python.org) and uses the ace
Pygame library (http://pygame.org).


Requirements
A joystick or gamepad. The following devices are known to work:

USB:
* Hori 'Soul Calibur II' PSX joystick with 'Boom' PSX->USB adapter
* Saitek 'P150' gamepad

Gameport:
* Gravis GamePad Pro (Thanks Buttermaker)

Keyboard port:
* Hotrod SE

If Pygame can't detect any joysticks, you'll be informed at the title screen
See the Troubleshooting section if this happens. Note that the computer
considers the Hotrod to be a keyboard, not a joystick, so although it is
supported by Button Masher, it won't count towards the number of joysticks
detected.


Instructions
Use the joystick to practice your execution. Button Masher will show you
exactly what you input, and the frame number of each action. (A frame is
1/60th of a second, as in most fighters.)

To clear the screen, do nothing for 1/2 a second, and then the next time you
press a button or move the stick, the screen will automatically clear before
showing what you did.

Note: In order to allow any one of many plugged-in joysticks to be used,
Button Masher doesn't distinguish between events from different joysticks.
You can therefore use any joystick without having to explicitly select it.


Troubleshooting
No joystick detected / Nothing happens / Program crashes / Weird behaviour:

1. Make sure your joystick is plugged in properly. If it is a Hotrod,
then although Pygame can't recognise it as a joystick, it *will* work
in Button Masher 0.3.0 or later.

2. Check whether your OS recognises your joystick, and that it works in
other programs.

3. Run the included 'joysticktest.exe' (or 'joysticktest.py') to see whether
Pygame recognises your joystick, and what it thinks it is. Moving the stick
and pressing the buttons should produce output to the console/shell.

If joysticktest does not indicate that your joystick is recognised
and working, maybe Pygame doesn't like it. Try http://pygame.org
for help.

4. If you've tried all of the above, and it works in joysticktest but not in
Button Masher, send me a copy of the output from joysticktest, the type
of the joystick/gamepad/adapter, and a description of the problem,
and I'll try to fix it.


Changes
0.2.5 -> 0.3.0
Added support for Hotrod joystick (effectively a keyboard)

0.2.4 -> 0.2.5
Decreased reset wait time


Credits
Frame number font: 'Atkins' (c) Pixietype (http://www.pixitype.com)
Title screen font: 'DPComic' (c) codeman38 (http://zone38.net)
Zangief (c) Capcom

Sega Arcade Panel dimensions ?

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Anyone have or can get me the dimensions for any of the Sega arcade panels ?
Astro, Blast, Net, whatever.

before lizardlick went out of business they were producing a replica panel, and I cant find any info on that either.

Or point me to a technical diagram with measurements ?

panel thickness as well if you can.

Advice for custom Neo-Geo arcade stick

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Hi, i'm trying to figure out a properly way to make a professional arcade stick for my AES system. I mean, i have Sanwa/Seimitsu arcade parts and a arcade stick case to mount them, my doubt is which pcb would be the best to install.

I own the Tototek's ps2 to Neo converter and it's great but all the ps2 pads that i have tried had problems from the wire, they break inside and it causes malfunction, the inputs gets crazy in 2 or 3 months. I know how to roll the wires properly, this happends because these joypads are cheap, their pcb are good for soldering though. I use these cause i don't have skills to solder/hack a original Dual Shock pad.

I was thinking if the Neogeocd pad would be the best solution, however i don't know if it's possible because the D-pad on that one is different from the regular conductive rubbers out there, there are switches soldered on the pcb for the D-pad.

Anyone had same experience?

PLEASE CLOSE

Qanba Q4 Help

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Hey guys, My Qanba Q4 screwed up mid game 2 days ago and the right direction was stuck on, i thought it might be the switches but after switching in the part from my TE and plugged it in it worked fine for about 20 seconds and then i put the bottom plate back on now it's stuck on right again. Any ideas to what it could be and how I can fix this?

EiJTeR4.png
Pic is what i get with my stick at neutral in device manager

Thanks

Edit: okay this is weird i shook the stick and it fixed it, i guess a wire has come loose somewhere?

Modding SSF4AE for PC (NO DLC UNLOCKS!)

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This thread is for discussing the technical aspects of modding SF4AE. It is not for submitting skins. Do that in this other thread, instead.

If you're just getting into modding, hit up the tutorials on the modding wiki. Most everything still functions similarly to vanilla SF4, but the engine doesn't use emz bundles for costumes/colors anymore.

I will update this first post with some frequently asked questions as they arise, so please read it before asking.

Wiring PS360+ to a korean stick setup.

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Hey!

My korean stick broke down and the Omni is out of stock at etokki. I want to buy a ps360+ pcb and wire my korean buttons (have to solder wire to the buttons), and stick (chained ground and 4 separate wires with quick-disconnects).

I'm pretty sure it works, my only question that I can think of is that the ground from my buttons is going to be separate, or can I chain it somehow? The tutorials I have seen showing me how to setup the ps360+ is only with chained ground.


Anyone done this before? Thanks!

Cerberus: Unleash the hellhound in your arcade stick

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Cerberus-300x194.png
Picture-004-300x225.jpg
Cheesy title.. I know >: )

The Cerberus is, ultimately, a revamp of my TEasy Strike/TEasy Mod. It's goal is to provide the user with solderless modding options for their MadCatz Xbox 360 T.E. arcade sticks to allow them access to PlayStation 3 consoles for "dual" functionality in a single stick.

However, it may overall result in the same basic principle to give the user a dual mod with next to no effort, it's method for accomplishing that is far different. The TEasy Strike/Mod used spring loaded pins to access the original signals, the Cerberus does not. Instead, it utilizes undermounted sockets that interface with the original board. This method allows for a more solid installation, and also is actually easier for the user to do since there is little alignment required. The top right of the board has an alignment hole to see the top right most mounting screw through to give you one alignment point, as well as the board being thinner than the original Xbox 360 PCB so that the user can actually see the connection's alignment while it's happening.
Picture-008-300x225.jpg
The Cerberus board mounted to the original Xbox360 enabled PCB.
Picture-009-300x225.jpg
Alignment hole to view the mounting screw.
Also pictured are solderable points for Ground and VCC for usage with other modifications such as LEDs and optical joysticks.
Picture-010-300x225.jpg
User’s view when installing, you can actually see the connection for instant feedback on alignment.
As you can probably tell, the USB cable connection points look different this time as well. They are in fact IDC terminals (Insulation Displacement Connection), which make it so that you only have to remove the outer sheath of the USB cable. The 4 wires (VCC, D+, D-, GND) do not have to be stripped. Simply inserted into the terminals and closed tightly with your fingers, you don’t even need a flat head screwdriver like the TEasy did to punch the terminals down. They’re smaller, sleeker, and do a bang up job for ease of installation. Although they are easier to use, it’s good to note that extra care should be taken to ensure they are down all the way, which I will show an example of in the Installation section.
Picture-006-300x225.jpg
IDC Terminal front view. Note that “USB IN” is only labeled on the prototype, you will see “X360 IN” for this particular pair in the final version.
Now, the name Cerberus is not just picked because it sounds cool (although I do really like it). The PCB does in fact have 3 accessible faces for the user.
  1. Bottom Face – Accesses the original Xbox 360 PCB
  2. Top Face – Accesses the JST connector harnesses that go to the rest of the arcade stick.
  3. Inner Face – This is a special advanced face that the user can access by soldering directly to.
The third (inner) face, has been specially planned out for advanced users. You may notice that all of the components are centered into a small area of the board. The reason is shown below:
Picture-005-300x225.jpg
Third face shown, the silk screen outline denotes cut lines. The gold pads are solderable for advanced usage.
The top/bottom board components that allow the PC/PS3 controller circuit to function are smashed into a tiny area to give the more savvy user the ability to literally cut the board down to the size of a quarter. This allows the user to install this board into not just it’s standard function of MadCatz Xbox 360 T.E arcade sticks, but into virtually anything.
Picture-002-300x225.jpg
Bottom side for easy soldering, the cut away section to the left.
Picture-003-300x225.jpg
Top side, denotes what’s left after cutting, the heart of this board.
*It should be noted that although the advanced operation is available, once you begin cutting the Cerberus PCB you void any and all warranty/support. This is for advanced users with the abilities required to perform such modifications.

*Also note that if you are using the cut down board and wish to use the Player LED signals. They are controlled via open collector configuration for usage with Common Anode LEDs. There are 4 0402 resistor positions (R2, R3, R4, R5) that you may wish to use. The original components are 0 (zero) Ohm resistors, so jumpers. Do NOT connect LEDs directly to these signals as you could cause irreparable damage to your setup.

Picture-032-300x225.jpg
Install FAQ Section:
Spoiler:
First make sure the pins are lined up nicely and try again. You can see where the pins are rubbing into the plastic of the connector on the Cerberus and adjust by that. Then if that doesn't work try out what mistcore has done below:
Klbti.jpg
This was my solution to installing the Cerberus successfully.
The JLF connector was rubbing up against that white guide, so I snipped the side of the guide.

Features

The Cerberus‘ list of current features are as follows:
  • PC/PS3 Functionality
  • Player indications for PS3 (Player numbers will appear on the guide ring of your arcade stick after a standard instllation)
  • LS/RS control by switching the control panel of the arcade stick
  • Auto-detection on supported systems
  • Forced passthrough mode for Xbox360 mode. Hold 1P (x) while plugging into allow this.
  • Forced PC/PS3 mode for debug/forced mode on PC. Hold 1K (a) while plugging in. (FW 1.01)
  • S+S=H ability on both PS3/360. Pressing a dedicated Home button will disable this. (FW 1.01)
  • Updatability through a USB bootloader for any firmware upgrades/bug fixes in the future. Hold START while plugging into your PC to access this mode.
Upgrading your firmware

TODO – Firmware update section

For those who know how you can upgrade the board via Atmel's FLIP DFU. The chip is an Atmega32U4

Firmware Downloads:

v1.01
  • Added code for S+S=H with a ~1/3s delay, dedicated home will disable the function. Will show up on new plugins with 1.01 as the version.
  • Also gave it a forced PC/PS3 mode, use LK to do so.
Arcade Stick Compatibility

Due to the measurement based install of the Cerberus. It will only fit SSF4 T.E. arcade sticks and newer. This means round 1/2 and SE sticks are not compatible. Obviously the cut down board does not follow this rule.
For quick reference if your stick is compatible, look on the PCB. If there is a KGND signal on the top row, it is compatible. The ONLY exception to this rule is BrawlSticks which are not compatible.
Quck Reference List of some compatible sticks, variants of these exist and more than these are compatible: *For the Fightstick PRO and the Soul Calibur V sticks, an extra step or two is required. Please see the installation section for details.

When you purchase a Cerberus, you will receive the following:
1 x Cerberus PCB with reference sheet for installation.

Assembled Cerberus ($40.00) :

Picture-037-300x225.jpg

Advanced Cerberus (Advanced Users, Special Request ONLY, $30.00):

Easy print reference for the bottom of the board

Picture-004-300x225.jpg

Picture-006-300x225.jpg

Unfortunately I pulled a stupid and when I went to process the board files, I used the wrong file to do so. Luckily the only thing that is botched is the bottom designators, the silk screen still remains. This will only affect advanced users, since the top silk screen/labels are all picture perfect and have been improved upon since last build.
I will make a downloadable/printable image that has these designators for easy reference, they just won’t be ON the board this time, sorry guys.

One possible extra use for the advanced version is a cheap fix for a 360 TE that has a busted PCB. Just remove it and swap it with the half assembled one, and voila you have a working stick again. With a little fiddling you can get this to work with round 1/2′s for a fix also since it’s no longer reliant on attaching to another PCB.

Head over to the Cerberus page of my website for the latest updates/downloads/install notes.

UD-CPS2: Fully Consolized Capcom Play System 2

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Introduction -

Alright, folks, here it is, a fully consolized CPS2. And when I say fully consolized I don't mean with some monstrous external power supply and DB 15 connectors that require custom joysticks or adapters. I'm talking about a setup where everything is "off the shelf."

The core elements of this project are: Power, Video, and Controls:

Power - Internal DC/DC converter. An off the shelf laptop charger supplies this board with power which is then converted to proper voltages necessary to run everything inside.

Video - [NTSC] Composite, S-Video, and low resolution RGB+S (no component). Uses a standard off the shelf Playstation A/V port cable.

Controls - 2 Player XBOX 360 and PS3 controller support. Yes, you just plug and play.

Photos of one of my prototypes:

th_DSC07928.jpgth_DSC07925.jpgth_DSC07923.jpg
th_DSC08337.jpg
th_DSC08335.jpg

Location Tests -

Devastation 2011 - Phoenix, AZ (early prototype, hard-wired controls)
th_DSC07913.jpg

Evolution 2012 - Las Vegas, NV (prototype, USB support)
th_DSC08205.jpg

This is It! 2012 - Tucson, AZ (prototype, USB support)
th_DSC08316.jpg

F.A.Q. -

Ordering:
Spoiler:
Q: Can I pre-order one of these now?
A: I am not opening up pre-orders for this quite yet. When I am ready to order parts in bulk and build these in batches, I will likely open up for pre-orders. Until then, hang tight and when I am ready to release these to the public, this post will be updated with a link to a sales thread.

Q: If I can't pre-order, can I get on some sort of waiting list?
A: I really just want to focus on getting to full production before I worry about who was in line first. I have no intention of limiting production on this, so Lord permitting, there will be plenty.
General:
Spoiler:
Q: What region/color B Board (Game Cartridge) will run on the UD-CPS2?
A: The standard compatibility for the UD-CPS2 is US/Blue and JP/Green (and RENTAL/Yellow, as far as I know). If one desires to play ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange games, a custom order can be placed for a unit which is compatible with (only!) one of those.

Q: I already have a laptop power supply. Can I save money on my order and just use mine?
A: No. I'd rather you start with a setup that has already been guaranteed to work than spend any time trying to figure out why power supply x isn't working properly.

Q: I already have an A Board. Can I save money on my order and just send you mine?
A: Yes. You can save $20 off of your order by doing so. If you do the math on the cost of shipping vs. what you are saving, it makes sense to just keep your A Board. The only instances I can recommend sending me your A Board are: 1.) I am out of A Boards, 2.) you would like an ASIA/Grey or SA/Orange compatible system, or 3.) you want an absolutely mint condition A Board and you happen to have one.

Q: Will this still work on an arcade cabinet?
A: No. The intent of this device is to reach outside of the arcade savvy audiences, so no effort has been made to retain those functions.
Video Related:
Spoiler:
Q: I'm tired of lugging around a heavy CRT TV to gatherings/tournaments. Being able to hook this up to a monitor would be a huge convenience. Is there any way to have Component Video available for this?
A: Not natively. You could run the UD-CPS2's RGBS output through an RGB to Component transcoder (like this) to output 240p Component Video, but any HD monitor (that actually supports 240p) must upscale that resolution in order to display it. Upscaling inevitably adds lag to your setup, therefore (non-HD) CRTs are the lag free display of choice for this system.

Q: I would like to stream/capture video from this unit. Do you have a recommended setup?
A: In the realm of standard resolution, the highest video quality for the least amount of hardware headache is certainly S-Video. By simply running S-Video and Stereo Audio to a distribution amplifier (like this or CE Labs AV 400SV) you can run both the player setup and stream/capture setup at excellent quality with fairly little extra hardware/cabling.

Q: Will this output PAL video?
A: No. There are no immediate plans to add PAL support.

Spinoff Products -

Look forward to some spinoff products regarding the USB host, such as USB to DB-15. Based on some interest, I'll also be making available the internal DC/DC converter so people can use those in their own consolization/supergun projects! When those are available, I will update this post with a link to a separate thread.

The rest of this thread is a work log from early in the project up to the present...

Inspecting a used stick

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Bought a used qanba q4 stick the other day. This is my first fighting stick. Seems to run pretty good, but do you guys have any tips on making sure the stick is in good shape. Not sure how hard the prior guy used it, so what's a good way to inspect it for any issues?

Razer Atrox

sooooooo where can I find a replacement Paewang Mayflash PCB

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I checked etokki and they no longer have them!

Converter Compatibility Thread

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Read the FAQ before posting! :bluu:

There is not a converter for using a TE on a system other than the one it was designed for.

There is no USB to anything older. No USB to PS2, Dreamcast, etc. You must mod your stick with a MC Cthulhu or a second PCB.

If you want a stick that works on both Xbox 360 and PS3 (And PS2, Dreamcast, etc.) get a PS2 stick like a HRAP or Namco. You can then use converters to adapt it to various systems.

You can not plug a random USB controller or converter into either the Xbox 360 or PS2. The Xbox 360 only works with Xbox controllers due to its security scheme. The PS2 was never designed to accept it.

The PS3 can use HID compliant (driverless) USB controllers for PS3 and PS1 games (not PS2). This makes the USB Saturn pads worth getting. Beware of bootlegs.

The PS1 Dual Shock has the best compatibility with converters. If you are building a custom stick then these are the way to go. The original, non-analog controllers have problems with most converters and are not recommended if you can avoid them.

Most custom PS1/PS2 sticks were made with Sony PCBs. When submitting a compatilibility report open your stick and see what kind of pad is inside. The Dual Shock pads have analog sticks. The original Digital pads do not.

There are three versions of the SFAC stick. Unscrew the bottom of the case to check the PCB before purchasing an adapter. Check next to the system cable for the voltage. It will read either 3.5V 7.5V or 8V. This number is indicated in the listing below whenever possible.

Please test your converter if it can be connected to a PC:

If you purchase a converter that's USB (PS2 to PS3, etc.) and want to test it for lag (on Windows) then download this application developed by SRK member Colac. It's straightforward to use once you get the hang of it.
To accurately test your adapter/converter, you need to:

1) Turn off vertical sync in your graphics card settings.

2) Using a key on your keyboard to run through the program once and record down the input lag time from your keyboard.

3) Plug your gamepad and stick through the adapter that you want to test into your PC. Then, use programs like (xpadder) to map a button on your gamepad or stick to the SAME key that you tested in step one. Run the program and record down the input lag again.

4) Subtract the two results you got from previous steps. If the difference is less than 2 ms (i.e., stick input lag - keyboard input lag <= 2ms), then your adapter can be considered as lag free.

PS2 to PS3/USB

Note: Sony is at it again with 3.5. The Real and HAIS are reportedly done for.

The 2.7 firmware update rendered the Sumoto and TAC adapters unusable with the PS3. This was corrected with 2.8. I'm hesitant to recommend them in light of this but they are working again.

The majority of these converters should also work on a PC without drivers (InPin, Pelican). If you only care about PC compatibility then the Super Joy Box 3 Pro was highly recommended. It does not work on the PS3.

*Recommended* InPin: This is the best option that's readily available. It's sold by exclusively by SRK member laugh. Visit his eTokki shop to order one.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS, MAS, HRAP Series, Namco PS1, SFAC 3.5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V?, certain PS1 Digitals

*Recommended* Pelican: People claim that these are the only adapter to feature code from Sony. They have excellent compatibility with the exception of PS1 digital PCBs. They're by far the most expensive ($50+) but can occasionally be found used at GameStop for a few dollars.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, HRAP 2, SFAC 3.5, Namco PS1, Saulabi
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, SFAC 7.5V

HVG2: These are reportedly a good converter if your stick has a analog capabilities; like a custom with a PS1 DS. It will not work with a digital PCB like most consumer sticks have (HRAP).
Compatible With: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, Hori Fighting Stick, SFAC 3.5V, 7.5V
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Namco PS1, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2, SFAC Pad
Reviews: Riotblade

DragonPlus: There were conflicting reports on this adapter. Most of its owners reported it as lagless. Press Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital, Tekken 5 stick

Cablesforpc: This is the one to get for owners of the SFAC stick with an 8V PCB. It allows two PS2 controllers to be connected.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, 8V, HRAP 1
Incompatible with: SFAC 7.5V
Reviews: Annihilationscape

Sumoto: These were reported as the best adapter for Sony digital PCBs (original pads without analog sticks). A few users have claimed they're lagless, and I haven't seen a negative review on them yet.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, Tekken 5, Pelican Universal, Pelican PS2, Ascii PS1, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with:

TAC: These were reported to work well with SFAC and HRAP series. MarkMan and others reported that it has issues so I would avoid it in favor of something else. Hold Analog for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital

Real (Incompatible with 3.5): These were once all the rage but are now discontinued. They notably do not work with PS2 DS controllers.
Compatible with: PS1 DS, HRAP 2/SA, Namco PS1, SFAC, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: PS2 DS

Hais (Incompatible with 3.5): These reportedly work well and include a PS2 memory card reader. They have taken Sumoto's place as a solid/budget converter. Press Analog or Up+Select for XMB. Hold Up+Select for Home.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC, SFAC pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Pelican Universal
Reviews: Canto

PS2/3 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* Controller Converter Pro by Blaze (?): This is an unmarked converter that is similar in appearance to the Blaze PS2-360. It notably does not require a 360 controller for passthrough. It reportedly works well with a HRAP3 and features similar compatibility to the Blaze.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS3 DS3, HRAP3, HRAP2, Namco T5, SFAC Pad
Incompatible with: MadCatz TE and SE, Pelican Universal

PS2 to Xbox 360

*Recommended* PS&PS2 to 360 converter (Xtokki360) by Tinybee: These converters, originally sold through Focalprice, are the best available option for PS2 to 360. They do not require an Xbox 360 controller for passthrough like the others listed below. They are also the only converter to feature a headset jack. They are sold by SRK member laugh. He is the recommended supplier because of Focalprice's questionable shipping. Analog or Select + L3 for Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, Tekken 5, MC Cthulhu, Mayflash PS2/PS3, Tekken 4, Fighting Stick PS, ASCII Stick 3
Incompatible with:
Reviews: kaioshade, DrgnAK

The following converters require a wired 360 controller to bypass Microsoft's security scheme. A wireless controller with a Play & Charge cable will not work. Read Ikagi-chan's post for more information. The Blaze and Xtokki360 above feature a Microsoft security chip to bypass this requirement.

*Recommended* Xconverter 360 by Joytron: These were the best option until the introduction of the Xtokki360. They are now discontinued. Previously sold by SRK member laugh who brought us the InPin. Analog = Guide.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Tekken 5, MAS, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:
Reviews: laugh, Ikagi-chan, Gamecop

*Recommended* BlazePro: These Hong Kong converters can be had for $10 on eBay. They are basically superseded by the PS3 to 360 converter listed above.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP Series, Namco, SFAC 3.5, SFAC Controller, Saturn PS2 pad, Blaze Twin Shock
Incompatible with:
Reviews: Source thread

Max Shooter by Mayflash: These work great except for an issue with simultaneous key presses. Pressing corresponding buttons, for example: Right+Circle will cause the converter to freeze until another button is pressed.
Compatible with: PS1 Digital, PS1 DS, PS2 DS, HRAP 1, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, Saturn PS2 pad, Namco PS1
Incompatible with: HRAP 2, SFAC 8V

XFPS by XCM: There are a few revisions of this adapter but I can't recommend it at all. It reportedly lags and/or drops input even with a real Sony PS1 or PS2 controller. The OP repeatedly trashes them earlier on in the thread. There are 10 negative posts for every positive I could find. Read this, this, this, this, this, and this before deciding to spend your money on one of these.
Compatible with: Sony PS2, PS1 DS
Incompatible with: Namco PS1, HRAP 2

Xbox 360 to PS3

Cross Battle Adapter by XCM: MarkMan confirmed that this drops inputs similar to the XFPS. People with 360 sticks should look into adding a Cthulhu PCB (Photos) for PS3 compatibility.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with:

PS2 to DC

*Recommended* Total Control Plus: These are usually recommended since they're readily available. Toggle the switches on it to change the triggers.
Compatible with: Sony DS 2, HRAP, HRAP 2, SFAC, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: Some MAS sticks

*Recommended* Dream Connection 2 by Innovation (original URL, sold out): These as reportedly the best converters but are expensive and hard to come by. The SFAC Pad isn't recommended because it treats L1 and R1 (the HP/HK buttons) as the same button.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2/SA, Tekken 5, Pelican PS2
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V

PS2 to GameCube/Wii

*Recommended* Cube JoyBox Pro by Mayflash: These are the most commonly recommended converters for GC. They work with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom on Wii.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP 1, HRAP 2/SA, MAS, Namco PS1, Tekken 5, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Controller
Incompatible with:

Magic Path II by EMS: These apparently work equally as well as the Cube JoyBox. They're also reported to work fine with Tatsunoko vs. Capcom.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, HRAP
Incompatible with:

Game Elements (eBay): This is the converter I've happily used for years. It works great on the GameCube/Wii as well as the Xbox. ArcadeStickMonk used it as well.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, SFAC 3.5V, HRAP 2 SA, MAS
Incompatible with: PS1 Digital (works on Xbox) SFAC 8V, Tekken 5 (Works on Xbox), SFAC Controller

PS2 to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: These are lag free and the Saturn port is awesome. It went completely nuts when I plugged in my PS1 DS stick.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 Digital, HRAP, HRAP 2 SA
Incompatible with: PS1 DS, SFAC Pad, SFAC 8V

*Recommended* Game Elements: These work very well. See the GameCube section above.
Compatible with: PS2 DS, PS1 DS, PS1 Digital, SFAC 3.5V, SFAC Pad, HRAP 2 SA, MAS, Tekken 5
Incompatible with: SFAC 8V, Directional issues w/3rd Strike

X-Connection by Innovation: I would think the Innovation name would guarantee this one a winner, but it reportedly doesn't work with certain games or the HRAP 2.
Compatible with:
Incompatible with: HRAP 2

PS2 to Saturn, SNES, etc.

A company called ToToTEK makes a wide variety of PS2 to classic system adapters. There's one for 3DO, Neo-Geo, Famicom (NES), FC2003 (?), Saturn, GameCube, SNES, PC Engine (TurboGrafx-16), and Genesis (Mega Drive). They reportedly work well from everything I've read.

Saturn to Xbox

*Recommended* Xbox Magic Box: This works great with an official Sega pad. There isn't a Select button for Insert Coin but some Xbox emulators like FB Alpha allow it to be remapped. Only problem is that they're hard to find.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad
Incompatible with: Nights Analog Pad

Saturn to PS2

*Recommended* Keio Console Converters: These are a godsend for people wanting to use their Saturn pads on other systems. They can be chained to other converters for use on the Xbox 360, PS3, etc.
Compatible with: Model 2 (Japanese style) Sega Saturn Pad, HSS-0130
Incompatible with:

Xbox to USB (Not PS3)

The original Xbox uses a USB connector with a funky male end. Female Xbox to male USB adapters can be had on eBay for a few dollars. No conversion is necessary. This reportedly works fine for the SFAC stick.

Xbox 360 to USB (Not PS3)

Xbox 360 sticks/controllers work fine on Windows using Microsoft's drivers. They're available for both 32-bit and 64-bit.

360 TE - SGND wire is loose...

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I noticed recently a few missed inputs (more than normal!) so I opened up my original 360 TE. Looks like the SGND wire has come loose (see photo below). I'm going to soldering it a go this weekend but I wondered if someone could tell me the exact issues that would related to this. It appears all inputs are working so I wasn't too sure.

Thanks

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