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Paradise Arcade Shop, LED Joysticks, Buttons, Mods and more

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We have been floating around for a little while posting and received a recommendation to start a thread. Paradise Arcade Shop is based in Hawaii, working to bring a variety of controls to the arcade and fight stick market. We carry a number of different options for price points in both sticks and buttons, but we only sell products that we would use. That means, there is a difference between a Porsche and a Toyota, we see a place for both of those in the market, and we won't sell Toyota's at Porsche prices.

I say "we" as Ponyboy likes to harass me about, because the company is my wife and I. For those of you who have ordered already(thank you) she packs the orders and answers about 90% of the emails (mostly logisitics, but she is answering the "How to I light an LED" questions now) This is also her full time job and my part time job. She works hard to send out all stock items in 1-2 days, and rides my ass about the cutsom builds so they stay close to 1-3 days(We build LED sticks to order, and some of our game systems)

I have been an active membe of KLOV, Coinopspace, and BYOAC for sometime, and we sell on EBAY and Amazon. I will probably edit the intro down in the future, but I wanted just let people know who "we" are and who I am. Thank you for all the support and orders we already have received and now...it's time for the good stuff!

Mortal Kombat 9 Stick mod products!!!!! If you want new controls with the same forms to just upgrade your stick try some of these IL products and microswitch upgrades.

Translucent Concave IL buttons - A great upgrade to your stick, especially with...

IL-lumination LED pads - Available in RGB or single color
[media=youtube]P7zdGGsF2oI[/media]

IL Eurosticks provide "Happ Competition" Style with an upgrade in quality

And, for amazing light touch, upgrade any Happ or IL button to our 20 gram micros (Please note that these are 20 gram max spec and really are closer to 15 grams of actuation force)

We also carry JLF's, JLW's, LS-32, LS-32-01, LS-40, PS-14-KN pushbuttons, re-released PS-14-K Skeleton buttons, Paradise LED sticks, custom ball tops and a variety of hollow shafts(we also have 10 new custom hollow shafts on order, need a long JLF shaft or want to put a ball top on a Eurostick joystick?)

Finally... we have two new ball tops in, Pearls and Emerald Green that will be available shortly and were built to match the Rollie Buttons.
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And the answer is "Yes, the pearl will light up."
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Injustice: Gods Among Us Battle Edition Arcade Stick

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**Read this first post thoroughly before asking/posting questions!**

Can't stress this enough...

It's great as a beginner stick due to the recent price drop IF you don't plan on modding it besides the simple stuff (swapping out the restrictor gate, changing out the balltop, shaft & buttons as long you're willing to lose the LED function) but I don't recommend it as your first stick if you want to do anything more.

EDIT: 4/15/13

Kaihong was nice enough to offer detailed pics & dissection starting with this post:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/8091923/#Comment_8091923

EDIT: 6/5/13

FWIW, I ended up using it for a few hours wanting to really like it but ultimately unloaded mine on eBay a few weeks ago (yes, I'm the one that created this thread!). If it was the only stick I own then I probably wouldn't mind modding it. IMHO, it's a mid-tier stick at best but just too much work (dremeling the bottom of Sanwa buttons to make the OEM LED's fit in there with Sanwa SW-68 microswitches, using spacers to make a JLF fit, adding weights, etc.) to make it a quality top-tier stick (just not motivated enough to do all that easy yet tedious work). A little annoyed (I'm over it, ha!) WB didn't allow PDP to announce (before launch date) exactly what components (manufacturer) would be inside of it but I guess now we all know why though most of us suspected it wouldn't be top-tier components from Sanwa or Seimitsu anyway. Love the semi-grippy rubber texture (spray on?!?) of the case & LED lights...but that was it! I probably wouldn't pay no more than $75 for it but that's just me. Also wasn't feeling the Namco Noir/Astro City button layout.

EDIT: 1/10/14

Gamestop had a sale for $55 (after $5 off & free shipping codes) so I caved in & bought it since I couldn't resist the price for an all-LED stick. Also, I'm crossing my fingers the developers of Injustice (PS4) will implement a patch to allow the use of this stick but highly doubt it.

EDIT: 2/11/14

Price dropped to $40 but sold out for both consoles.

If you guys/gals don't care about the LED's, has a Vewlix button layout & a ball-top then for around $60 the Qanba Q1 is an alternative option. It includes a table mount/clamp, octo/circular gates, button plugs & a USB-cable storage compartment. It uses the same exact buttons & joystick lever as the Injustice stick.

Details:

Case material: Plastic with spray on (?!?) soft rubber matte black texture & thin foam bottom panel. Clear top panel is plastic. There are no metal panels. Also has a detachable 10-feet USB cable.

Artwork: Heavy duty cardstock underneath the top panel.

Button layout: There's no specific name for the stick/button layout on this arcade stick but the closes is the Sega Astro City Single Player layout found on the Hori Real Arcade Pro 2, 3 & EX.

Components: All Qanba-based (Omron microswitches for the joystick lever just like in a Sanwa JLF) with individual button & joystick lever LED's. Black bat-top with clear shaft cover & clear dust cover.

Weight: ~3.5 - 4.0 pounds.

Additional features: Two options for the LED's (on & pulse aka vibration as there are no vibrating motors). Lockout of Start, Select/Back & Home.

Modding: Hex screws on the top panel & Phillips screws on the bottom panel. Will fit both Sanwa & Seimitsu 30mm buttons as well as ball-tops. However, unless you plan on drilling holes into each button for the stock individual LED's, I don't recommend swapping buttons. Octo & circular gates (for the joystick lever) will swap easily. Sanwa JLF will fit BUT the mounting plate won't so swap everything over except for the plate. As for a Seimitsu LS-32-01, this won't fit unless you cut (dremel) plastic & add spacers.

FWIW, the game developers are the same one's that did MKvDCU & the MK-series. Just like the previous PDP MK sticks (TE & Klassic) surprisingly, it has excellent fit & finish. This Gamestop exclusive bundle is for the PS3 & 360 but not for the WiiU (the mention of this in their PR is an error they retracted).

http://www.joystiq.com/2013/01/15/injustice-gods-among-us-hits-april-16-batte-edition-revealed/

PS3:

http://www.gamestop.com/ps3/games/injustice-gods-among-us-battle-edition/107664

360:

http://www.gamestop.com/xbox-360/games/injustice-gods-among-us-battle-edition/107663

Credit goes to forum member, LiQuiD[EViL]:

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The "Stickless Arcade Stick" Thread.

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It seems wrong to discuss competing/custom products in the Hitbox thread.

This thread is dedicated to the use/discussion/learning of these controllers outside the realm of the Hitbox.

I've got a custom build on its way to me now. It's a 6 button instead of 8, but the left hand layout is nearly identical.

How have y'all been liking these? What do you think about their impact on The Scene?

What first interested me in them was precision. You won't end up trying for a dragon punch and getting a fireball because of a slight error on your part as long as you know how to operate the controller. Now, you could say the same about knowing how to use a joystick - you should get the DP if you go for it. That's fair, but you're still dealing with Operator Error even at the highest levels of execution. The "SAS" (I don't know what the preferred nomenclature is) seems like it will nearly eliminate this problem once you learn it well.

Thoughts?

I need suggestions for solder iron

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Okay my solder iron which i got from radio shack which i haven't used ever, until i started modding my mayflash arcade stick, during the desoldering process, my solder tip became burned/black, I need to know should i get a new solder iron, something that scrape off the tip of the solder

also i forget when i'm adding solder on the pcb,, what should i be using for my 22 gauges to the sawna buttons: cause radio shack aren't helpful in my situation

How to convert a MadCatz TE-S to a "hitbox" keystick

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So, I have an Mad Catz TE-S arcade stick that was modded by Gummowned. He added MC Cthulhu to it so I could use the stick on all of my old consoles. But I want to convert it to a "hitbox" (yeah, I know it's a brand name and all) style keyboard stick. But with a twist, I want to have to "up" inputs. Here's a mockup that I made on tek-innovations:
rVCLGbs.png
basically it's a hitbox with a WASD keyboard layout. the "thumb" button and the top button ("W) are both up inputs.

can someone explain to me how to convert my stick into something like that? I have pretty much zero experience with modding (aside from reconnecting the wires to the buttons that have fallen off over time), so please explain it to me like I'm a baby haha. is it possible to do it without any soldering tools/experience? I've heard about a daisy chain movement adapter that focusattack.com used to sell that would make it easier, but I can't find it anymore =/ and how can I wire two up inputs to the two buttons?

if it's as easy as plugging in all of the cords into buttons, then i'm all for it. and does tek-innovations do custom plexi glass layouts? I would like to have artwork as well... sorry for the general noobness when it comes to stick modding, haha.

Squeaky fightstick even after applying lubricant

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Opened up my Sanwa stick completely and applied lube to the joint(?) of the stick, but it still sqeaks in exactly the same manner after reassemby - downward motions cause squeaks. The stick started doing this fairly shortly after I bought it brand new, so I don't know how likely it would be that it's a worn out part. Any suggestions as to what it might be?

Thanks

I need someone to dual mod my fightstick

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Hi. A couple of weeks ago I bought an XB1 along with KI. Loving the system and the game so far. Only problem is that I can't stand using the controller. I still have my T.E. stick for my 360 that has served me well, and instead of shelling out another $200 for a new stick, causing more clutter, I figure that I might as well have this one frankensteined for both systems. I was thinking about doing it myself, but after looking up the various parts needed, I realized that I have no business even trying. Any help with the matter is greatly appreciated. Thank you

PS360+ disconnecting ONLY on PS3

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It works fine on Xbox360, but on PS3 it's been recently disconnecting while pressing buttons. Any ideas?

Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.) !

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Intro:

Well, folks, it's been a long time coming, but I'm really close to finally getting these things out there and into your hands!

Description:

This is the opposite of boards like Toodles' Cthulhu or the PS360 which take the button/joystick wire signals and turn them into USB. This takes input from your USB 360 or PS3 controller and turns that into button/joystick wire signals. You could use this to control any number of projects from Superguns to robotics, to anything you can imagine that you'd like to control with your digital 360 or PS3 joystick!

These are essentially the same circuit and firmware as that of the UD-CPS2 (ran at multiple major events including ST Games @ EVO, The Fall Classic, etc.).

Target price is $35.

Features:

- Terminal Blocks for solder free wiring (signal layout intentionally similar to MC Cthulhu so you can mate them for fun things like TE stick on SNES)
- USB A Socket
- Alternate header for USB signals - for people who don't to use the on-board USB socket
- Indicator LED - bi-color, red/green
- Alternate header for LED signals - for people who don't to use the on-board LED
- Pull-Up Selection Jumper - allows for pulling button/joystick signals up to +5V or +3.3V, depending on the application
- Player Select Jumpers - tell the joystick to light up the appropriate controller LED (can be set for P1-P4)
- Custom button mapping - for 6 action buttons
- Firmware can be updated via USB for future features/improvements

Example:

Here's what @Rufus did with a couple boards which were used at SoCal Regionals, early this year:

DSC08604_CS_zps68321334.jpg
(sweet 3D printed case by @Rufus not included)

SCR_2013__zpsdb03f7e7.jpg
(running on a supergun at SoCal Regionals 2013)

Ordering:

I've already ordered new PCBs (much improved design from the ones @Rufus had) and there is a slim chance I can get those built and out to my beta testers before Christmas. Otherwise, I have every intention of getting some out in January. That batch will help me figure out what is needed to ramp up for very large production. I want a constant supply of these for you guys because I'm pretty sure you will be eating them up like candy :D I will also set up some sort of ordering system to make it easy for everyone.

Future:

I'll also be offering a DB-15 version shortly after I get the Terminal Block version shipping. And after that, a super great NEO GEO version (no you can't shove the DB-15 version into your NEO GEO)! Prices will go up on these versions as they will be fully encased and require more labor to assemble.

Let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!
-ud

Hori Pad 4 FPS padhacking?

Firmware Update PS360+

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I am following the steps from this this pdf on Akishop's website and when I select the type of communication (in step 3) I get the error "AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found." This is followed by another error window "Could not load dynamic library." What do I do?

Tekken 6 Fight Stick Template

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Hi All,

I trying to find the template for the Tekken 6 Fight Stick. All the links are old in the threads I checked out, can someone please post it up.

Thanks
B

HBFS30-G2 Pre-Order will be open in 8/15 ~All New Arcade Button~Update: 14/8/2013

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Dear Game Geeks:
Thanks to the support of the many players and funders,
GAMERFINGER reached goal at the last season-"Provide excellent fighting game experience for FTG players."
For us, this is a very important achievement.
Gives us driving force, keep moving and develop innovative.
And we absorb the player feedback into new creativity.


HBFS-30 to promote FTG players a new fun experience.
But we're not complacent.
Has been redesigned and improved for several months,
We build more reliable Button ---- HBFS-G2 Series
Including HBFS-30, HBFS-24, HBFSC-30


More details will release soon.

HBFSG2%2520%25282%2529.jpg


Update: 14/6/2013

<HBFS-G2>
Based excellent sensitivity, significantly reduce the noise, diverse power options.
HBFS-G2 has further enhanced the ease of installation.
We have streamlined the steps of button install.
The all new structure design, get rid of adapter plugs.
Plug terminals and button into one.
Do not need to change the existing wirings system,
It's important that no more annoying problem of loose wires.
Of course, the more easy when you changing different microswitch.

G2plug.gif


Update: 17/6/2013

<HBFSC-30>
Many players in pursuing personal style fighting controller.
Players use creativity and art in decorating their weapons.
We listen to the needs of players, and practice ideas.
Now, HBFSC-30's plug can embed image.


HBFSC.jpg


Sorry for that our web shop opening time has been delayed.
Now, We're almost done!!

998047_548357088559425_363672357_n.jpg

And We are get ready to release HBFS24!!
http://www.gamerfinger.com/hbfs24.html


Update: 14/8/2013

preorder.jpg
Thank you Geek Fighter :
Because of your support, we reach the first goal in the last year.
HBFS-30 was satisfy the expectations of many gamers.
We improve our design though your sponsorship and support.
We got great motivation, whether the words of encouragement or suggestions about shortcomings.

"We know we can do it better."

Eventually,
Here is our latest product HBFS-30 G2 & HBFS-24.
HBFSG2.jpg
HBFS-30 G2 got something new; The new structural design, Integrally molded connectors, new colors, and more detail.
In addition, HBFS-24 is specially built for the HitBox control layout players.
You must experience yourself.
More Info-GamerFinger Office website

We will open pre-order on 8/15~ 9/15
​Delivery is expected to ship in late September.
​The early bird discount of 15% off ; Please just seize the opportunity.


Furthermore, express our gratitude to you.
If you are a funder before, We prepared additional coupons to you, please just check your mailbox.

LOGO-01.png
GET HBFS-30 G2 NOW

Hope you enjoy it!

​S​incerely thank

GAMERFINGER -Pei Kao

Chimp smd+ supergun controller.

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I want to wire my xbox stick that's dual modded with a chimp smd for use with my supergun. I initially thought the original modder soldered the wires to the chimp, but he didn't. He used the screw terminals. Will it be fine run wires for the db15 port into the screw terminal along side the wires already in there?

Sanwa RG pushbuttons

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The ones with the longer micro switches. Is there any difference in quality / performance than the regular obsn? Or do they just stand up to a harsher beating? TY

Problem with Street Fighter™ IV FightStick™ for PLAYSTATION®3

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Hello, I bought the Street Fighter™ IV FightStick™ for PLAYSTATION®3 and wanted to play on my Sony™ vaio® VPCEA3S1E. The OS is Windows®7.

The stick doesn't work, the driver got installed, and the controller is recognized as the PC USB Wired Stick 8818, however the input is not being registered.

I have already tried MotionInJoy, but that program does not only not recognize the fightstick, it also doesn't recognize my XBox®360 Street Fighter™ IV fightpad, or my normal XBox®360 controller.

I have also tried to use TocaEdit, without any success. All in all, I have spend more than 3 hours now trying to find a solution, can anyone help? Did anyone else encounter this problem?

The fightstick also shows up in the game's button configuration menu, but the buttons do not respond. In the Windows® hardware callibration thingie©, the buttons don't work either.

Is there an emulator, or a cheap adapter out there? And please don't tell me to buy some USB chip, this is a laptop I'm using.

WTB Hori Vlx or Vlx Diamond for either 360 or Ps3 please Pm me if you've got one in good condition

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Looking to buy either of these sticks I live in the UK but I have friends in the US who you can send the item to.

Replacement Screws for top of Madcatz TE Versus Stick?

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Hey guys, I just re did a new Versus stick with art and plexi and buttons but the seller I got the stick from did a real number on the Alan Key screws that hold the art down on the stick. They are all stripped beyond use. I got them out but I am not putting them back in. Any idea where I can find some nice replacements? My local hardware store was no help. They said it's a weird "in-between" size.
HALP!
Thanks!

The Link: The Quick-Disconnect JLF Shaft!

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Currently running a kickstarter to get The Link second run off the ground. If you like The Link or even like the idea of it, help get it back in action! Just click the image below!


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The Link is a new JLF shaft design that is purposed to allow easy storage for all kinds of players. The casual players looking to save a little space, and for traveling tournament players who need every inch when cramming into a full car.

The new design is a two piece steel construction. When in place, the Link is identical in height, allowing for you to drop it right into your current arcade stick that has a Sanwa JLF and feel no difference. The diameter of the center collar is perfect size so that you can keep your current dust washer, however the shaft cover will have to go!
0523112311a-300x225.jpg

Compared to the original shaft, the Link is nearly identical. The few base changes are the collar locking/unlocking mechanic and the hollow construction to cut down on any added weight, as well as allow for future mods such as LEDs.
0523112301.jpg
0523112301a-300x225.jpg
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Another key difference is in how the top is changed out. In the old design you had to utilize the flat head screwdriver slot to get ample torque to tighten the top enough not to loosen. In the new design, the center of the top section has been keyed for a 3mm hex bit, allowing for a more streamlined approach. This is the same size required to take the top panel off of a TE, which makes install that much easier.
0523112311-300x225.jpg
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Here's a quick overview I've done, please excuse the horrible quality... video stuff isn't my thing these days.
[media=youtube]v4SLrNZ8tGQ[/media]

FAQ
JLF Only?

If this takes off, and there's enough interest, the "Link technology" so-to-speak, can be ported to any style shaft out there. Get interest in the current Link JLF and you can probably expect another type.
How do I install a it?

If you're completely in unfamiliar territory, I suggest hitting up Youtube with just a "JLF Install" search string to cover your bases. It's an extremely simple swap, with minor tools required, however Vicko has done a fantastic job overviewing how to install it into his HRAP and TE-S.

[media=youtube]7cnPH4y9oUU[/media]
[media=youtube]l-YPvkNtiMo[/media]

Extra Install Notes:

1. If you're installing it into a Madcatz TE or one that has the second dust washer that lies on top of the pivot bushing, REMOVE THAT INNER DUST WASHER.

They (and some others) have 2 in the stick, one on the control panel (which is fine) and an inner one that rests underneath the control panel, right over the pivot bushing. That inner one will cause problems, both in coupling the pieces together and connection, remove it and you'll save yourself headache.

Sticks to note that may have the inner (under the control panel) dust washer that must be removed:
  • Madcatz TE/SE
  • Qanba
2.Custom plexi dustwashers may have an adverse affect. If you find it's popping out during play and you have a custom dust washer. Remove said dustwasher and test the compared performance, you should see an improvement. A workaround to this is to put a counter-sink into the inner-diameter of that dustwasher, as it will alleviate problematic pressure on the collar of the Link from that hard angle.
Will it come apart without engaging the collar ever?

In short, yes it can, but only if you exert upward force that's unnatural to standard play. There is a yield strength, it hasn't been exact weight tested yet, but it won't come apart unless you're aiming to make it happen. It will not, and I repeat, NOT come apart during normal play if you do not touch the collar, that is a guarantee.

This is something I'm looking into and perhaps in future runs this performance will improve, but for now I HIGHLY recommend against lifting up the stick by your ball/bat top.
What do I do about the hole left after it's been disconnected?

Working on that one, currently one of the best thoughts is to simply use a 24mm button plug with the tabs snapped off. The Link is made of 416 Stainless Steel, it is magnetic so you can get creative... or just cover it with painters tape during travel.

*Update to the above

Below is a picture of someone not only showing off a hitbox/standard style hybrid stick, but also the use of a plug to cover the hole when it's not required.

3.jpg
I got it and put it together, but it looks like the collar piece doesn't go all the way back down when locked together.

This is normal behavior for now, future iterations may behave slightly different but for now this is OK.

Quick diagram courtesy of Freedom Gundam:
thelink.jpg

*Update to the above picture/description

New adjustments have removed much of the space shown above, and as such has also increased the linking strength, below is a comparison of the old vs. new, you will see a big difference in how far the collar goes down.

Comparison-e1327697832398.jpg
How do I order one?

Currently they are ONLY available at Focus Attack. I won’t be selling directly for a little while, so if you want to grab one head over there and maybe pick up some other items you may need.

Focus Attack


MCZ TE2 Help

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My main questions are about artwork swapping, though I may have more later.

1. What type of paper should be used to print?
2. What dimensions should the image file and printing paper have?
3. Is going to Staples to get it printed a good idea?
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