Two Sanwa JLF questions, please help..Mounting screws + does your dust washer clank?

February 20, 2017, 9:36 pm

≪ Previous: www.JasensCustoms.com - Panzer Fight Sticks, ADCAP SuperGuns, EZ MODs, and more!

1) What are the best screws to attach the stick itself to the mounting plate in a Hori RAP 4 Kai? I have it on now but it just seems like the screws are barely making it to the threads and will come out easy.

2) Do your Sanwa dust washers clank? Like a casino chip? I don't notice this on any of my other arcade sticks. Here is a video, hopefully you can hear it:

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The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

September 14, 2011, 6:57 pm

≫ Next: Microswitches - which ones to buy

≪ Previous: Two Sanwa JLF questions, please help..Mounting screws + does your dust washer clank?

Recently announced Razer Arcade stick looks sleek but it seems to be only on the xbox. Also it doesn't look like it uses quick disconnects that we're used to, But a different kind that has both connectors in 1.
more info at their site, Don't forget to sign up for their beta Program!
Link: http://www.razerzone.com/bredtofight

EDIT:
List of suggestions:
Mandatory
Different Quick Connects for the buttons and stick
Common Ground PCB
Move the insides to the Bottom of the Stick
Move The Latch that Opens the stick
Make the height inside the stick taller so it can have parts that aren't japanese

Minor
Button Layout
Include Button Plugs

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Microswitches - which ones to buy

May 11, 2011, 12:59 am

≫ Next: Hori Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa

≪ Previous: The Razer Arcade Stick Thread!

I'm customizing two sticks and I'd really like to learn more about microswitches. This may be running over some of the same ground, as has been covered in the past... but I've dug through all the related posts in the forum. it doesn't help matters, with Happ changing the switches it uses, and there being different models of Cherry's switches...

Can anyone basically explain which microswitches are needed for pushbuttons vs. for
joysticks, and why?

As a starting point, maybe we can be specific about

Switches for Sanwa JLF sticks?

Switches for Happ/iL sticks?

Specific info about operating force, how much is function and how much is preference, whether anyone had any particularly good or bad experiences with various switches... and of course, whether there are different switches for pushbuttons?

Input (and some consolated easy to reference info) would be awesome. In the meantime, I've ordered a bunch of Happ and iL stuff, both buttons and switches, and I'll be happy to post comparisons.

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Hori Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa

September 9, 2016, 7:14 am

≫ Next: Just another Vewlix cab - x24's cab using Donovan Myers' plans

≪ Previous: Microswitches - which ones to buy

Hi,

I'm new to this forum i recently just got my Hori Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa Silent (my 1st stick, YAAAAY! haha) there's a "learning process" on using these things haha, but i'm getting the idea why others would prefer sticks over controllers.

Upon playing with it for i think around 15hrs (total) i noticed that i don't really feel comfortable with a square restrictor, and upon watching some videos on YouTube (the ones from bossbattletim, awesome awesome videos) there's an Octagonal Restrictor mod for the Hayabusa i was sooo happy to have read that, but after going to focus attack's site. the shipping is just WOW haha (justifiable, but maybe i'll wait untill i want some more items to combine the shipping fee) also the octa-restrictor that they have for Hayabusa will not fit this version because it doesn't have any screw holes (check the pic below). So i just decided to make one. Hopefully it will work properly with it. I'm also looking forward into modding the bejesus out of this stick soon!hahaha

Bye Bye warranty!

Looks like this will be a loooooong journey for me, my skills modding drones and stuff will be helpful here so i'm sure i will do mods A LOT!haha

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Just another Vewlix cab - x24's cab using Donovan Myers' plans

July 7, 2010, 1:17 pm

≫ Next: The NEW Official Arcade Stick Art Thread NO IMAGE QUOTING!

≪ Previous: Hori Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa

Loving what Donovan Myers did with his wooden Vewlix TE cab, I used his sketchup files to have one made for myself.

Note that I didn't do the woodworking on this one, I had it done by a local professional cabinet maker. I used the sketchup files to make the plans into PDF (available in Donovan's site). This made it easy for the guy to cut the pieces. This was a very unique project for him but he said the very detailed plans made it easier, and cheaper to boot.

Since I didn't have enough tools or even enough skills to cut MDF like this, I searched around Craigslist for a woodworker to see if this can be done cheaply. I've gotten quotes from local wood workers and even those professional arcade cabinet makers reaching $800 and above referencing just the pictures. I was then able to negotiate a quote from a local cabinet maker cheap enough to make me decide (and by me I meant my wife :wgrin:

) to have one done. His quote was around the same $800 price point (assembled, finished and delivered) but with me providing detailed plans, only having the woodwork done, no finish or paint, and doing only a local pickup, brought it down to $500. Decent enough for me at least. You might save more money if you know someone. Here are the pics he sent me when they were done:

It took him about a month or so to build it. Rather long for a small job like this but he basically just did it on the side since he's normally on-site working on cabinet contracts. I wasn't in a rush anyway.

I had him make it into three major pieces and be assembled and disassembled. This way, if I need to move the cab, I can just take it apart and lift each myself. I also added leveling feet just so it would be easier to me to move it around the floor, plus to help keep it from rocking in case the base is not level.

For paint, I used Kilz2 odorless primer/sealer, Rustoleum ready made black paint, and some white wall paint I had lying around the house. I then used Minwax semi-gloss lacquer to finish it, pretty much what Donovan Myers used. I personally did an ok paintjob, although the pictures show it nicer than it looks. I guess having it spraypainted would make it better. After applying the lacquer it looked good enough for me. Since I am going to use Round2 TE sticks on it, I painted the control panel all black.

I'll be installing the TE stick next and also installing a 22" TV for now, until the budget for a 32" comes up. I'll probably finish the panel covers when the 32" is installed.

I don't have a lot of build pics since I didn't do the woodwork myself but some pics not posted here are in a flickr set: click me!

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The NEW Official Arcade Stick Art Thread NO IMAGE QUOTING!

May 24, 2011, 11:44 pm

≫ Next: [PROBLEM] Venom arcade stick on PC (Windows 10)

≪ Previous: Just another Vewlix cab - x24's cab using Donovan Myers' plans

Spoiler:

The ff. are guidelines for uploading to the SRK Sticks imageboard.

Create an account at http://srksticks.booru.org/
In the Posts page, click on Add (near the bottom of the page).
Under Source, be sure to add the link to either the printer friendly version of the file (300dpi PSD or PDF) or your post in this thread.
Tags are separated by spaces, use "_" for tags with multiple words (e.g. "srk_sticks")
Check if your tags are similar to other existing tags, if they are, then use the existing ones.
Make sure to tag the artists involved
Rate your image honestly

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[PROBLEM] Venom arcade stick on PC (Windows 10)

February 24, 2017, 7:24 am

≫ Next: Best type paint for a dustwasher?

≪ Previous: The NEW Official Arcade Stick Art Thread NO IMAGE QUOTING!

Hi, i bought an used Venom arcade stick.. It doesn't work on my PC with Windows 10 pro 64bit. I've read that it should work on PC..

When i plug the stick the error says "USB device not recognized: The last USB device you connected to this computer malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it."
And in Device Manager says "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported poblems. (Code 43) A request for the USB device descriptor failed."

I've tried evrything, differents ports and differents PCs.. PS3 mode, PS4 mode etc etc. It's my stick broke or something? Someone else have the same stick with windows 10?

Sorry for my english and thanks for the help.

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Best type paint for a dustwasher?

February 24, 2017, 1:58 pm

≫ Next: Metal Modular Cases on eBay...

≪ Previous: [PROBLEM] Venom arcade stick on PC (Windows 10)

So i'm 3d printing a dustwasher design in PLA plastic. Could I get some recommendations on the best type of paint, top coat, and brand of air brush I should use to paint it? I'm shooting for durability as i'd hate to see it start peeling in a few years. Thanks.

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Metal Modular Cases on eBay...

March 22, 2016, 9:37 am

≫ Next: Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.) !

≪ Previous: Best type paint for a dustwasher?

Has anyone bought one of these before? They look pretty well made, and obviously very solid.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Metal-Modular-Custom-Arcade-Fight-Stick-Case-Enclosure-Sanwa-Ready-US-Seller/252313683994?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid=555012&algo=PW.MBE&ao=2&asc=35830&meid=115ded6ca5404d3d897d894cf3d2f0c2&pid=100010&rk=3&rkt=24&sd=262321823473

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Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.) !

December 13, 2013, 11:56 pm

≫ Next: Has anyone used GamerBridge GB-13?

≪ Previous: Metal Modular Cases on eBay...

Intro:

Well, folks, it's been a long time coming, but I'm really close to finally getting these things out there and into your hands!

Description:

This is the opposite of boards like Toodles' Cthulhu or the PS360 which take the button/joystick wire signals and turn them into USB. This takes input from your USB 360 or PS3 controller and turns that into button/joystick wire signals. You could use this to control any number of projects from Superguns to robotics, to anything you can imagine that you'd like to control with your digital 360 or PS3 joystick!

These are essentially the same circuit and firmware as that of the UD-CPS2 (ran at multiple major events including ST Games @ EVO, The Fall Classic, etc.).

Target price is $35 for the Screw Terminal version and $40 for the DB15 version.

Screw Terminal Version Features:

- Terminal Blocks for solder free wiring (signal layout intentionally similar to MC Cthulhu so you can mate them for fun things like TE stick on SNES)
- USB A Socket
- Alternate header for USB signals - for people who don't to use the on-board USB socket
- Indicator LED - bi-color, red/green
- Alternate header for LED signals - for people who don't to use the on-board LED
- Pull-Up Selection Jumper - allows for pulling button/joystick signals up to +5V or +3.3V, depending on the application
- Player Select Jumpers - tell the joystick to light up the appropriate controller LED (can be set for P1-P4)
- Custom button mapping - for 6-8 action buttons
- Firmware can be updated via USB for future features/improvements

History:

Here's what @Rufus did with a couple boards which were used at SoCal Regionals, early last year:

(sweet 3D printed case by @Rufus not included)

(running on a supergun at SoCal Regionals 2013)

Future:

I will continue to improve the firmware features as I have time.

Let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!

Resources:

User Manuals / Firmware - http://udgametech.blogspot.com/p/firmware.html

Ordering:

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com (search for "undamned")
https://www.akishop.jp (search for "usb decoder")

-ud

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Has anyone used GamerBridge GB-13?

February 24, 2017, 9:34 am

≫ Next: Moved: Has anyone used GamerBridge GB-13?

≪ Previous: Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.) !

I just wanted know if it's good or not and if it has any lag.
For those who don't know, it's converts controllers so they can be used on different platform.

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Moved: Has anyone used GamerBridge GB-13?

February 24, 2017, 4:14 pm

≫ Next: TES+ Broken :(

≪ Previous: Has anyone used GamerBridge GB-13?

This discussion has been moved.

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TES+ Broken :(

December 23, 2016, 1:35 pm

≫ Next: Input Lag for Different Games

≪ Previous: Moved: Has anyone used GamerBridge GB-13?

Hi guys,

this is my first post but I'm not sure where to really go from here. My TES+ is less than a year old and I haven't used it in months(school). I plugged it in today to try out the season 2 changes and noted that the stick thinks the right direction is held. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting as well as disconnecting every single connector on the PCB except the PS button. Even with everything unplugged but the PS button the moment i click it, it goes to the main menu and immediately starts scrolling right.

What are my options as I checked Mad Catz warranty and its only 90 days. Unbelievable on a product that I spent nearly $300 CAD for.

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Input Lag for Different Games

May 3, 2016, 2:14 am

≫ Next: The Hori PS4 VLX thread

≪ Previous: TES+ Broken :(

This is a topic that interests me greatly. I've been posting some results in the Arcade Stick Lag thread, but felt that it was probably appropriate to have its own thread. I'll try to compile some of the useful sources, and then present some of my results.

Previously several different people/groups have looked at some games to determine how different response times differ.

http://www.displaylag.com/video-game-input-lag-database/ has a large collection of different games across various systems, updated to include SFV.

Battle(non)sense looked at the issue and produced a video with their results.

The controversy over USF4 on PS4 generated several tests, inlcuding this one.

http://ps360.ldblog.jp/ this website was excellent, but unfortunately hasn't seen any action since 2012. They covered several different games, including DOA5 http://ps360.ldblog.jp/archives/53804592.html TTT2 http://ps360.ldblog.jp/archives/53791203.html Tekken 6, SSF4 and VF5 http://ps360.ldblog.jp/archives/51638829.html and also described their testing method (in Japanese). http://ps360.ldblog.jp/archives/51620353.html

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The Hori PS4 VLX thread

February 27, 2015, 2:32 pm

≫ Next: Qanba Q4 RAF stick button distance vs Ultra Ulia, which one to buy?

≪ Previous: Input Lag for Different Games

I have been waiting for a new VLX for awhile. Who is preordering one? I am tempted although I already have a VLX diamond. The only downside is it comes with shitty Kuro buttons.

What are your guys thoughts?

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Qanba Q4 RAF stick button distance vs Ultra Ulia, which one to buy?

February 27, 2017, 12:43 am

≫ Next: One controller for all platforms

≪ Previous: The Hori PS4 VLX thread

Hi guys!
I want to buy a second arcadestick besides the one that I already have.
The model that caught my eye is the qanba q4 raf. I did some reading in the amazon reviews and some people mentioned
that the spacing between the stick and the buttons/or the buttons themselves !? is too narrow for them with the qanba.

Since I already have an ultra ulia and I'm quite happy with it, can someone tell me if the distances between the stick and the first two buttons is about the same for the two sticks or if there is some kind of major difference.
The button layout after the first two buttons is completely different. For one stick it goes up for the other it goes down.
I guess it kinda goes down to personal preference which layout is to prefer.
Which layout do you guys like better and why?

Also another thing that I'm wondering about, is the placement of the start button on the qanba stick, does it get in the way when using the outer two buttons of the eight in terms of accidental presses or anything ?
Is it also possible to mount a ls-32 instead of the sanwa stick without any major modifications in the qanba ?

Since I want it to be also compatible with the xbox 360...I guess my main question would be, should I buy a second ultra ulia and mod it with an after market pcb or am I better off with buying the qanba

Thank you

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One controller for all platforms

February 27, 2017, 7:36 am

≫ Next: TE-S metal panel repair/replacement

≪ Previous: Qanba Q4 RAF stick button distance vs Ultra Ulia, which one to buy?

The World’s First Universal Gamepad. Play On Your PS4, Xbox One, PC, Mac, Android or iOS Device with Support for Programmable Macros and Combos with Ease.

http://www.all-controller.com/

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TE-S metal panel repair/replacement

February 27, 2017, 4:00 pm

≫ Next: Brook Universal Fighting Board into a Hori SCV stick. Help appreciated.

≪ Previous: One controller for all platforms

Hey I got a te-s from my friend and I wanted to remove the art from it to put some new art on it eventually. When I went to remove the screws one of them would only come out so far, turns out the screw was stripped and when I tried to remove it the metal panel got bent as you can see in the picture. Is there any way I can replace this and ad art to this?

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Brook Universal Fighting Board into a Hori SCV stick. Help appreciated.

March 4, 2016, 8:11 pm

≫ Next: Xbox One Padhack Trigger Issue

≪ Previous: TE-S metal panel repair/replacement

I recently picked up the version of the Brook Universal Fighting Board with all soldered headers (thanks, Paradise Arcade Shop). While I’m decent with wire strippers and a crimp tool, my soldering skills are surely not up to snuff. I’d like to avoid soldering if at all possible..

Here are the button functions that I’d really like to retain that are part of the sub pcb on the top button panel:
- PS
- Select
- L3
- R3

The following are nice-to-haves but really are not a priority:
- Port LEDs (1-4)

The rest I don’t care about at all (don’t use ‘em)
- Turbo
- Turbo LED
- Toggle switches

I’ve done my best to trace what’s what on the sub and main pcbs. Take a look and let me know if my guesses are correct.

Sub PCB

Main PCB

Now I see only one ground wire and one VCC wire on the sub pcb (well..at least feeding the right ribbon cable).

But the Brook Universal Fighting Board manual states that I’ll need the following:
1. Dedicated Ground for Start/Select/PS
2. Dedicated Ground L3/R3
3. Dedicated VCC for Port LEDs

I could most likely daisy chain a ground wire feeding from the Start button (off in the corner of the case). If that’s the case, I could then use the ribbon cable Ground wire (for L3/R3) and VCC wire (for the Port LEDs)…right?

This is making my head hurt, so thanks in advance for your input.

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Xbox One Padhack Trigger Issue

November 19, 2016, 6:06 pm

≫ Next: What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting.

≪ Previous: Brook Universal Fighting Board into a Hori SCV stick. Help appreciated.

Hey All,

Hoping someone can help me, my first attempt at any padhack and all going well until the triggers.

The diagram I was going off for the triggers is

.

However no matter which trigger I activate it always activates the LT.

I have also tried changing the points to the diagram
xbone%20backside.jpg

however again always the LT thats activated.

I have done a heap of searches and cant find anyone that has had the same experience.

Can anyone tell me if they have heard/seen this before?

Does this mean I did something wrong and have damaged the controller so trying to continue getting the triggers working is pointless?

Cheers

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