Hey guys, looking to see if it is possible to swap out or take apart the casing for the OBSF-30 for color swapping the casing. I wont some black casing with white buttons and white casing with black buttons. Instead of buying them premade that way is there any way for me to take those apart and just swap the casing?
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Sanwa OBSF-30 Casing swap... possible?
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Installing a Ps360+ and something went wrong somewhere.
I think my xbox PCB went out on my TE Round 2 so I purchased a PS360+ as a replacement. My stick was already modded (Thanks duckie) with an RJ45 jack so it seems I needed to just cut the harnesses and plug them into the Ps360+. I followed this guide for installation. The joystick part was hooked up fine but the buttons.....not so fine. As it stands right now, the only button working correctly is the LB button. The Start button is also LB. None of the other buttons do anything when I press them UNLESS I happen to be holding down the LB or Start button in which case the following happens:
A = A (Light Kick)
X = Y and RB (Medium and Heavy Kick)
B = Y and RB (Medium and Heavy Kick)
Y = B (Medium Kick)
RB = Nothing Happens
RT = Nothing Happens
LT = Nothing Happens
If anyone has a diagram of the xbox TE's button harness so I can see where I wired it wrong, I would appreciate it. Hoping to get this done today so I can get back to practicing for SCR this week.
A = A (Light Kick)
X = Y and RB (Medium and Heavy Kick)
B = Y and RB (Medium and Heavy Kick)
Y = B (Medium Kick)
RB = Nothing Happens
RT = Nothing Happens
LT = Nothing Happens
If anyone has a diagram of the xbox TE's button harness so I can see where I wired it wrong, I would appreciate it. Hoping to get this done today so I can get back to practicing for SCR this week.
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New To SSF4 AE. Looking For A Stick. Help!
I have been playing SSF4 AE on XBL for a couple months now and have decided to get a fight stick. My budget is $50-80. I want a 8 button fight stick. I have looked at these sticks so far: Injustice Battle Stick, WWE Brawl SE, and the Street Fighter IV SE. Can you guys give any insight on what you think about these sticks or any others within my budget? Also, regarding the Injustice Stick, i am not a fan of the game and do not like the artwork on the stick. I understand that the artwork is 7 1/4 by 12, which is bigger than normal paper. How would i go about getting my art printed and where would i find others art for those dimensions? I know that for the other sticks you remove the buttons, peel it of, and put on another one. Does the art for those sticks have to be on some sort of sticky paper? That should cover it all. Please help. I'm a noob.
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Mokujin Arcade Stick For a newbie
Alright this is my first time post, and I'm sure you guys are all sick of newbies asking dumb questions. I have read the FAQ and stickys on here, so i hope I'm not a totally clueless. But i apologize ahead of time if I'm in the wrong section or posting something i shouldn't be.
That being said, I want to make a fight stick. Just like every other person on the internet, and like most of them i don't know how or have any skills. I do own a number fight sticks and have done some research. Right now i was thinking of taking my Madcatz Street fighter 4 TE fightstick, and getting some new buttons and a new joy stick for it. Pretty easy modification. The hard part is that i was hoping to get a wooden box, and puts the TE sticks guts in their, and make that the casing instead of the TE casing. The reason for this would be to resemble the character Mokujin from Tekken, seeing he is made from wood. I'm not looking for a dream arcade stick for cheap money. I know the time and cash it will take. I'm not looking for something tournament quality. I'm looking for a fun stick to use at home, and look nice on my shelf. I'm looking for a fun and challenging project.
So my question is: can i take the guts out of my SE fight stick and throw it into a wooden box, and throw some sanwa parts on it, without the whole learning to be a engineer part? Any suggestions? And thank you for the helpfulness you've all provided at this site. Its a great site.
That being said, I want to make a fight stick. Just like every other person on the internet, and like most of them i don't know how or have any skills. I do own a number fight sticks and have done some research. Right now i was thinking of taking my Madcatz Street fighter 4 TE fightstick, and getting some new buttons and a new joy stick for it. Pretty easy modification. The hard part is that i was hoping to get a wooden box, and puts the TE sticks guts in their, and make that the casing instead of the TE casing. The reason for this would be to resemble the character Mokujin from Tekken, seeing he is made from wood. I'm not looking for a dream arcade stick for cheap money. I know the time and cash it will take. I'm not looking for something tournament quality. I'm looking for a fun stick to use at home, and look nice on my shelf. I'm looking for a fun and challenging project.
So my question is: can i take the guts out of my SE fight stick and throw it into a wooden box, and throw some sanwa parts on it, without the whole learning to be a engineer part? Any suggestions? And thank you for the helpfulness you've all provided at this site. Its a great site.
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Mokujin Arcade Stick For a newbie
Alright this is my first time post, and I'm sure you guys are all sick of newbies asking dumb questions, but i have read the FAQ and stickys on here, but i apologize ahead of time if I'm in the wrong section or posting something i shouldn't be.
That being said, I want to make a fight stick. Just like every other person on the internet, and like most of them i don't know how or have any skills. I do own a number fight sticks and have done some research. Right now i was thinking of taking my MadKatz SE fightstick, and getting some new buttons and a new joy stick for it. Pretty easy modification. The hard part is that i was hoping to get a wooden box, and puts the SE sticks guts in their, and make that my fight stick. The reason for this would be to resemble the character Mokujin from Tekken, seeing he is made from wood. I'm not looking for a dream arcade stick for cheap money. I know the time it will take and the money. I'm not looking for something turnement quality. I'm looking for a fun stick to use at home, and look nice on my shelf.
That being said, I want to make a fight stick. Just like every other person on the internet, and like most of them i don't know how or have any skills. I do own a number fight sticks and have done some research. Right now i was thinking of taking my MadKatz SE fightstick, and getting some new buttons and a new joy stick for it. Pretty easy modification. The hard part is that i was hoping to get a wooden box, and puts the SE sticks guts in their, and make that my fight stick. The reason for this would be to resemble the character Mokujin from Tekken, seeing he is made from wood. I'm not looking for a dream arcade stick for cheap money. I know the time it will take and the money. I'm not looking for something turnement quality. I'm looking for a fun stick to use at home, and look nice on my shelf.
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The official Cthulhu and ChImp thread - Try our new Dreamcast flavor!
Welcome Sheets:
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip
Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/
Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.
Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis
Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.
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Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:
Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.
Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.
Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)
Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)
Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread
Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.
Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.
Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.
Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.
Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power
Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack
Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.
Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.
Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.
Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.
Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework
Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:
PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS
PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select
PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X
Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A
Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start
Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks
NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)
NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A
NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start
SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select
Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L
3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop
TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)
Normal:
1K: II
2K: I
Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I
Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I
Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.
Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.
Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.
Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.
Q: What about converter support?
A:
____________
ChimpSMD Questions
Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.
Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577
Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.
Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.
Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.
Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.
Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp
Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306
Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.
Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.
Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.
Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:
If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:
Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)
If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.
Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html
Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.
Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.
PS3 Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/PS3CthulhuWelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/MCCthulhuWelcome.pdf
ChImp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpwelcomev2.pdf
ChimpSMD: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimpsmdwelcome.pdf
Imp: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/impwelcome.pdf
MC Cthulhu newest firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MCCthulhu23.zip
MC Cthulhu Variations firmwares:
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/cthulhu/MC_Variations.zip
Cthulhu troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-40#post-2271122
Chimp troubleshooting guide: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-85#post-2273436
ChimpSMD newest official firmware: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD12.zip
ChimpSMD Firmware Variations: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/chimp/ChimpSMD_Variations.zip
Imp thread:http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/s.59232/
Q: I'm having problems on SF4 AE for PC.
A: http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/t.46572/page-163#post-5526956
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, I see Select and Start are buttons 9 and 10, and the Home button is button number 13. How come there is a button 11 and button 12, but nothing ever turns them on?
A: Buttons 11 and 12 are read by the Playstation 3 as L3 and R3, the 'clicks' when you press down on the analog sticks. Even though nothing on the Cthulhu activates them, we still have to send the information to the PS3 so that it believes we are a proper controller.
Q: Why won't the PS3 turn on when I press the Home button?
A: When the PS3 is off, it cuts power to the USB ports. SIXAXIS controllers are the only ones that can wake a PS3 up from being off. No wired controller can ever turn a PS3 on.
Q: When using the Cthulhu on a PC, moving the stick around causes BOTH the X/Y axis to change, and the POV Hat to change to match. When using the Cthulhu on a PS3, moving the stick around causes BOTH the d-pad to change, and the Left analog stick to change to match. Why does this happen, and how could I change it?
A: The Cthulhu is designed to do this; it's normal and won't cause any problems. This setup was created as a compromise between how PC games usually expect the directions to be reported (X/Y axis) and how the PS3 expects the d-pad to be reported (POV hat). With this setup, you can just plug and play on most if not all of the games you want to play on both PC and PS3. If you would like the stick to be reported as one and only one of those for whatever reason, hold down the Select or Start button when plugging in; I don't remember which is which, but one disables the X/Y and only reports dpad/POV hat, the other disables POVhat/dpad and only reports over the left analog stick/X/Yaxis
Q: Where can I access the D+/D- lines for a dual mod?
A: D- (white) can be tapped in the D column. D+ (green) can be tapped in the E column.
_________________
Multi-Console 'MC' Cthulhu questions:
Q: What is it?
A: The MC Cthulhu is the multi-console version of the Cthulhu. It uses a more feature-rich chip that allows for the board to support more than just the PS3.
Q: So what's different?
A: The chip is different, and it comes with diodes that help protect the console in case the cord is plugged into more than one console at a time. The green board is the same, all of the parts are the same, the pinout is the same, etc.
Q: What consoles will it work on?
A: Currently, the MC Cthulhu will work on the PS3 (with all of the functionality of the original PS3 Only Cthulhu, so yes, it works just fine on PC), Xbox1, Dreamcast, Playstion/Playstation 2, Gamecube, NES, Super Nintendo, 3DO*, Sega Saturn and TurboGrafx16/PC-Engine consoles. Playstation support appears to work well with many converters.
(3DO support is currently limited to being the only controller. No daisy chain support or support in a daisy chain.)
Q: What about Wii?
A: The GameCube support will work on any game that supports a GameCube controller. (GG:AC, TvC, Smash Bros, Metal Slug Anthology, etc.)
Q: What about on Smash Brothers?
A: Yes! The Gamecube support in the MC Cthulhu includes two different modes for Smash Brothers play. These modes are very experimental so feel free to speak up any input on how it could be improved. Information on how to enter these modes and how they work can be read up on here: Universal PCB (eventually) thread
Q: I have a Cthulhu, but I don't know if I have a PS3 only version, or an MC Cthulhu. How can I tell the difference?
A: If the Cthulhu is assembled, just plug it into a PC and check the game controller applet in the Control Panel. The name should be very clear about whether it is meant for PS3/PC or is a MultiConsole version. If the Cthulhu is unassembled, look in the bag for a set of four diodes; MC Cthulhu kits come with diodes, but PS3 Only versions don't. If you're looking at just the chip, look at the first row of text on the chip; the PS3 Only version will have the text 'F24' on it, usually 18F2450. The MC Cthulhu will have the text 'F25' on it, usually 18LF2550.
Q: What about Xbox360?
A: Nope. Xbox360 uses special chips to prove they're licensed. Until they get publicly cracked, I dont think its going to happen.
Q: What about console X?
A: Maybe, but for now I need more feedback on the consoles already supported. No promises, no guarantees.
Q: If I buy now, and then you get console X added, won't I be screwed?
A: No, you'll still be fine. The MC Cthulhu includes a bootloader that allows the firmware to be updated in the event a new console gets added.
Q: I have a PS3 Cthulhu now. Do I have to buy a whole new board?
A: No. Upgrade chips are available. Installation is just a matter of popping the old chip out, popping the new chip in, and soldering the four diodes into place; if your Cthulhu already has the four diodes on it (board revision 1.4 or higher) then you don't even have to do that, just swap chips. You can find detailed instructions on the diode installation here:
Select Your Power
Q: Where can I buy an MC Cthulhu?
A: Godlike Controls
Focus Attack
Q: How does the board connect to the console?
A: The Cthulhu board has a set of unused holes near the USB jack, labelled with row 1-3 and columns G, A-F, and V. Each one has a specific purpose. For each of the possible consoles you want to use with your stick, you need a cable for that system (from an extension cord or dead controller) and you solder the wires in that cable to specific points on the Cthulhu.
Q: So if I want to play on PS3 and Playstation, I'll need 2 cables coming off of the MC Cthulhu board?
A: Exactly.
Q: I don't plan on ever playing on a Gamecube/PSX/Xbox/ConsoleX. Do I have to put in that cable?
A: Nope. Only put in the cable for the consoles you want to play on.
Q: So how do I install the Playstation, or Gamecube, NES, SNES, or Xbox1 cable on the MC Cthulhu?
A: Instructables for all supported consoles have been placed. Easiest way to find everything related to the Cthulhu is to go to Instructables.com and search for 'cthulhu' which will bring up everything I've done, and a couple of cool knitting instructions.
Gamecube: How To Install an Gamecube cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
PSX: How To Install a Playstation cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
Xbox1: How To Install an Xbox1 cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
NES: How To Install an NES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
SNES: How To Install an SNES cable onto a Multi-Console Cthulhu
A collection of all of them can be found in rtdzign's RJ45 thread:
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: How do I update the firmware? Where is it?
A: A link to the most recent version is at the very top of this post. Read the included readme.txt for directions.
Q: I get a weird error when I try to doubleclick Bootloader.exe?
A: Bootloader requires dotNet, which can be downloaded here: Microsoft .NET Framework
Q: What's the button mappings on all of the consoles?
A:
Spoiler:
PS3:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: PS
PSX:
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: R1
4P: L1
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R2
4K: L2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Up+Select
PSX (DC Converter mode: Hold 3P and 3K when plugging in)
1P: Square
2P: Triangle
3P: L1
4P: L2
1K: X
2K: Circle
3K: R1
4K: R2
Start: Start
Select: Select
Home: Start+X
Gamecube (normal mode):
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
4P: B
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
4K: Y
Start: Start
Select: Z
Home: N/A
Dreamcast:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
Start: Start
Xbox (Select not pressed):
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: White
4P: LT
1K: A
2K: B
3K: Black
4K: RT
Start: Start
Select: Back
Home: N/A
Home + 1P : Left stick click
Home + 1K : Right stick click
Home + Stick: Left and Right analog sticks
NES (All Modes)
Start:Start
Select:Select
1K: B
2K: A
Home: Go to next mode (Normal -> Turbo -> Punchout -> Normal ->.....)
NES (Turbo Mode)
1P: Rapid Fire B
2P: Rapid Fire A
NES (Punchout Mode)
1P: Select
2P: Start
SNES:
1P: Y
2P: X
3P: L
1K: B
2K: A
3K: R
Start: Start
Select: Select
Saturn:
1P: X
2P: Y
3P: Z
1K: A
2K: B
3K: C
4P: L
4K: R
Start:Start
Select:L
3DO:
1P: L
2P: P (Play/Pause)
3P:R
1K:A
2K:B
3K:C
Start: P
Select: Stop
TG16/PCE:
All modes:
Select: Select
Start: Run
Guide: Next mode (Direct: Normal -> Neogeo. Through multitap: Normal -> Six button -> Neogeo)
Normal:
1K: II
2K: I
Neogeo:
1K:Select
1P: Run
2P: II
3P: I
Six button:
1P: IV
2P: V
3P: VI
1K: III
2K: II
3K: I
Q: What about if we only want one cable on the stick at a time? Is there way to make removable cables?
A: Yes. Please look into this thread which covers how to use RJ-45 modular connections for making cables.
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/r.100475/
Q: You said the firmware on the MC Cthulhu can be updated. Can I update the firmware on my current PS3 Only Cthulhu?
A: No. The PS3 Only Cthulhu doesn't contain the ability to update firmware. Even if it did, it wouldn't help; the chip in the MC Cthulhu is much stronger than the chip in the PS3 Cthulhu. There is a piece called the SPI module that is needed for most consoles that just doesn't exist on the PS3 Cthulhu chip.
Q: Can I order console cables from you?
A: Sure. I have extension cables for Playstation, Gamecube and on hand; the same ones used in the Instructables. Price is listed below.
Q: Can I pay you a little extra to install them on the MC Cthulhu for me?
A: I'm sorry but I just can't do that right now. If I had the time, I would, but the SF4 rush currently underway has everything crazy for everyone.
Q: Would it matter what kind of PS cord i use? Do I need a PSX cord or a PS2 cord?
A: PS2 cord is identical to a PSX cord. If it plugs into the controller port on a PSX or a PS2, then it will work for this.
Q: What about converter support?
A:
Spoiler:
Tested as working:
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)
Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
Joytron Xconverter360+ (Toodles): Joytron Xconverter 360 Plus
EMS USB2 (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus (Mixah)
EMS Trio Linker Plus II (Mixah)
Nexxtech PSOne and PS2 to USB Adapter / Radio Shack PSX-to-USB Game Adapter with Vibration Driver / Sector 7 (Orbyx Electronics) Model 5810257 (Mixah)
Innovation [PSX->DC] (Mixah, Toodles)
Total Control 2 [PSX->DC] (Mixah)
Pelican PS3 [PSX->PS3] (Toodles)
Total Control Plus [PSX->DC] (Truckasaurus)
Blazepro PS2-360 [PSX->360] (drunkninja42)
Tested as semi-working/glitchy:
RedOctane Universal PS/PS2 Controller Adapter - weird dropped inputs (Mixah)
Super Joybox 4- dropped diagonals (Mixah)
'Vibration' converter [PSX->GC/Xbox] - Start button doesn't report right (Mixah)
ChimpSMD Questions
Q: What is it?
A: The Chimp is a new board that combines a PS3 Cthulhu with an Imp into one board. It's made for wiring along side an Xbox360 pcb so your arcade stick can work on both 360 and PS3 cleanly and easily.
Q: What's different about the ChimSMD versus the Chimp?
A: http://shoryuken.com/f177/greetings-lizard-lick-amusements-130032/index350.html#post9514577
Q: Why would I get a ChimpSMD instead of just getting a Cthulhu and an Imp?
A: Lots of reasons.
1. With only one board instead of two, the Chimp will be easier to wire up to the 360 board.
2. Autodetection. The Chimp can identify when it is plugged into an Xbox360 and automagically go into 360 mode. No slide switches, no holding down buttons, just plug in and go on any system.
3. Trigger inversion. If you want to connect the Chimp to an Xbox360 pad that requires the triggers to be inverted, the Chimp will handle this for you. No more transistor or inverter chip hacks.
Q: So why would I ever want to use a PS3 Cthulhu instead of a Chimp?
A: There are some reasons for that as well.
1. If you're going to mod more than just a 360 and PS3 pad together, you'll have more than one cable coming out of the box, and risk causing severe problems if its ever plugged into more than one console at a time. The diodes on a PS3 Cthulhu will help you route all of the power in a way that is safe in case that ever happens.
2. The PS3 Cthulhu can be upgraded to an MC easily. The Chimp can ONLY support PS3/PC USB, and cannot and will not be upgradable to a Multi-Console version.
3. If you prefer using the Xbox360 board when connecting to a PC, a regular Imp will make that easier for you. Using the 360 pad on a PC requires holding down three buttons (Short, Strong, RoundHouse) when using a Chimp, while the Imp used just the one button or slide switch, however you set it up.
Q: What about other consoles like PSX, Gamecube, and Xbox1 supported on the MC Cthulhu?
A: They are not and cannot be made to work on the Chimp.
Q: Will there be an MC Chimp in the future?
A: No. I simply can't. The pins that would normally go to the extra console cables are currently used to control the Imp chip present on the Chimp.
Q: How do I install the Chimp in my TE/SE FightStick?
A: Here is the current wiring diagram. Definitely post up in this thread if there are any questions or areas that are vague:
Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/5ychimpmadcatzp
Q: My X/Y axis moves when I hit a trigger button in 360 mode.
A: Known issue with pads using analog triggers requiring inversion. Please read:
http://shoryuken.com/f177/official-cthulhu-chimp-board-thread-mc-firmware-2-0-released-162026/index285.html#post9194306
Q: What should the button layout be?
A: This is rather important, so please pay close attention to this answer. The layout that I HIGHLY HIGHLY absolute must insist upon is the layout from the original MadCatz sticks:
For PS3: [] /\ R1 L1 X O R2 L2 For Xbox360: X Y RB LB A B RT LTYou can probably rig up things to use a different layout if you like, but they won't be supported.
Q: My 360 board requires the triggers to be inverted. What do I do?
A: On your 360 pad, remove the two trigger pots. Try to keep middle pad of the pots intact if you can; the side pads can be ignored or torn without care, but it'll be easiest if you can leave the middle pad in place. Connect the wire from 3K_Invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the right trigger, and the 4K_invert screw terminal to the middle pad of the left trigger. If the middle pads got torn from removing the pots, follow the trace to find another point to connect the wires.
Q: Can I use a ChimpSMD in a stick by itself?
A: Certainly. The only thing to keep in mind is that it will still try to go to 360 mode if you plug it in with Short, Strong, and Roundhouse held down. As long as you don't hold these buttons down when plugging it in, it will work just fine on PS3 and PC by itself without being dualmodded.
Q: I want to use the Xbox360 mode on a PC.
A: If you hold down the Short, Strong, and Roundhouse buttons (1K, 2P, 3K) when plugging it in, it will skip the autodetection and go straight to Xbox360 mode.
_____________________
Misc:
Q: What are the golden rules?
A: The two golden rules of dual pcb mods:
1. All pcb's must be common ground.
2. All pcb's must be powered at all times.
Q: My MadCatz 360 TE/SE fightstick occasionally has a problem where the RT and LT buttons will stop working. If I replug, they work for a while, but eventually go out again.
A: Known problem with 360 TE/SE boards, and happens whether it is dual modded or not. No known 100% fix. Suggest you rearrange buttons so you dont use RT or LT.
_____________________
Ordering:
If you're interested in ordering, please try ordering from one of our online resellers:
Focus Attack
Gremlin Solutions (UK)
If you can't find what you're looking for, or have other reasons to order from me directly, that's fine, but it really is preferred you go through a reseller when possible.
Q: How do I order?
A: Easiest way is through the Paypal shopping cart setup: http://www.godlikecontrols.com/order.html
Q: How long to ship?
A: Please allow 3 business days for packing and shipping out.
Q: How long will it take to arrive?
A: West Coast: 2-3 days after mailing. East Coast: 3-4 days after mailing. Rest of world: 2 weeks after mailing.
↧
Looking for discussions on tunneling a LAN-arcade cab connection across the internet
I'm unable to find any discussion of how to use software to trick your arcade cabs into thinking they're all on the same LAN. I'm somewhat a networking newbie.
I have friends in Europe, Canada, and other parts of the US with a few odd games not on MAME, and we'd like to network them for VS, stat sharing etc.
Any idea where and what to search for? I've seen people do this with MAME, but doubt the same tools apply. ( http://www.porttunnel.com/ )
I have friends in Europe, Canada, and other parts of the US with a few odd games not on MAME, and we'd like to network them for VS, stat sharing etc.
Any idea where and what to search for? I've seen people do this with MAME, but doubt the same tools apply. ( http://www.porttunnel.com/ )
↧
The Unoffficial MCZ TE2 for XBox One KI Ed. (Show 'em if you've got 'em!!!)
So I didn't get to see the stream, but I read in a Liveblog that a new Mad Catz TE 2 Fightstick was used to demonstrate the new Killer Instinct for XBox One! Anyone seen any additional details about that new stick? I suppose that the MadCatz.tv site is mum until tomorrow.
UPDATE: already confirmed, so I removed the question mark from the thread topic... Confirmed release date (XBO Launch date - 11/22, MSRP $199.99), let's talk about it!
UPDATE 2: Renamed thread again... XBox ONE has dropped! People should be getting their TE2's any day now, so show 'em if you've got 'em!!!
UPDATE: already confirmed, so I removed the question mark from the thread topic... Confirmed release date (XBO Launch date - 11/22, MSRP $199.99), let's talk about it!
UPDATE 2: Renamed thread again... XBox ONE has dropped! People should be getting their TE2's any day now, so show 'em if you've got 'em!!!
↧
Recent Purchases and Good Finds
I've seen this on other forums lately and figured I would give it a try.
Pick up a HRAP for a steal? Find a SFAC stick at a garage sale? Post it here.
I'll start out:
I picked up a Namco PS1 stick for $40 shipped today. I've been after one for a while ever since MarkMan claimed it was his favorite stick. I have a few sticks now so I'm excited to give it a try.
Also recently got a ReKleSS Saturn to PS2 converter with a very nice condition Saturn pad for $42 from Ikagi-chan in the Trading Outlet. I was supposed to have gotten a PS2 Saturn pad a while back for $90![:xeye:]( ":xeye:")
and I'm just as happy with this.
I know this isn't technically Tech Talk, but there's already a post about people's multi-thousand dollar entertainment setups. I won't posting be in there anytime soon.![:rofl:]( ":rofl:")
Pick up a HRAP for a steal? Find a SFAC stick at a garage sale? Post it here.
I'll start out:
I picked up a Namco PS1 stick for $40 shipped today. I've been after one for a while ever since MarkMan claimed it was his favorite stick. I have a few sticks now so I'm excited to give it a try.
Also recently got a ReKleSS Saturn to PS2 converter with a very nice condition Saturn pad for $42 from Ikagi-chan in the Trading Outlet. I was supposed to have gotten a PS2 Saturn pad a while back for $90
and I'm just as happy with this.I know this isn't technically Tech Talk, but there's already a post about people's multi-thousand dollar entertainment setups. I won't posting be in there anytime soon.
↧
↧
SRK Tech Talk Awards ver. 2013. WINNERS ON SECOND POST
Once again, it's that time of the year where we vote for the best TT related stuff that's come out during the year.
The categories are:
Anything released from January 1, 2013 to December 31, 2013 is eligible. Stuff released earlier (e.g. Phreak's the Link) is ineligible. Nomination period ends on January 1, 2014 after which we'll have up until January 7, 2014 for additional voting. Only one nomination per category is allowed and each nomination also counts as a vote.
Winners gain the right to use the SRK Tech Talk Gold Badge (aka bragging rights). If anyone wants to donate stuff for prizes, we're open to that as well.
![SRKTTT_Seal_of_Quality_2013Awards.png]()
*The SRK Tech Talk Awards are a community driven effort by the fans for the fans and is no way an official award released by Shoryuken.com or SRKX Productions LLC.
The categories are:
- 2013 Arcade Stick(Non-Custom) of the Year
- 2013 Arcade Stick Mod of the Year
- 2013 Tech Talk Company of the Year
- 2013 Custom Arcade Stick of the Year
- 2013 Custom Arcade Stick Maker of the Year
- 2013 Arcade Stick Modder of the Year
- 2013 Tech Talk Member of the Year
- 2013 Tech Talk Accessory of the Year (PCBs, Parts, Bags, etc.)
Anything released from January 1, 2013 to December 31, 2013 is eligible. Stuff released earlier (e.g. Phreak's the Link) is ineligible. Nomination period ends on January 1, 2014 after which we'll have up until January 7, 2014 for additional voting. Only one nomination per category is allowed and each nomination also counts as a vote.
Winners gain the right to use the SRK Tech Talk Gold Badge (aka bragging rights). If anyone wants to donate stuff for prizes, we're open to that as well.
*The SRK Tech Talk Awards are a community driven effort by the fans for the fans and is no way an official award released by Shoryuken.com or SRKX Productions LLC.
↧
Hit Box - We so S Tier1!!
Welcome to the Hit Box community! Please read this first post for up-to-date Hit Box information!
[media=youtube]dGU1d-cmtuQ[/media]
http://www.hitboxarcade.com
http://www.youtube.com/hitboxes
Visit our Super Street Fighter IV Hit Box Thread
FAQ
Combo Videos
How to Hit Box Tutorials
Interactive Learning Tools
Product Info
![N_Close_2_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
PS360+ Multi-Console Edition Hit Box
![N3_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![R1_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![R2_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![R3_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![B1_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
Cthulhu PS3/PC Edition
![N8_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![W3_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![W5_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![W6_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
![B3_1024x1024.jpg?28]()
[media=youtube]dGU1d-cmtuQ[/media]
http://www.hitboxarcade.com
http://www.youtube.com/hitboxes
Visit our Super Street Fighter IV Hit Box Thread
FAQ
Spoiler:
1. What is the Hit Box?
The Hit Box all-button controller, AKA the "Stickless Stick," is a game controller specifically designed for fighting games. We replaced the joystick with directional buttons that are controlled by your fingers.
2. Why buttons?
By using 4 directional buttons controlled by 4 fingers, you gain:
- Increased input speed
- Consistent inputs yield fewer mistakes
- Exclusive control over your movement
- No travel time inputting directions
- Button techniques apply to movement and special inputs (plinking, piano, double tap, slide)
- Game-specific features such as SSFIV input shortcuts (such as walking dragon punches)
- No unintentional inputs such as accidental jumps
- No arm/wrist motion
- Stays put in your lap
3. Are those smaller buttons than normal?
Yes. We use 24mm Sanwa pushbuttons with exception to the 'Up' button, which is 30mm. They are highly sensitive buttons and work perfectly. 24 mm buttons are able to be brought closer together and fit the natural curve of the human hand. When the button spread is closer together, players find all buttons directly at their finger tips with no hand-hovering.
4. Can I still execute throws and focus attacks on this smaller layout?
Yes.
5. What about plinking and double tapping my combo links?
Of course.
6. Why have a shared jump button for your thumbs?
It is larger than the other buttons so both thumbs can access "Up" depending on player preference. By utilizing this, you can perform advanced "joystick" motions easily. Tri-jumps and Tiger Knee inputs are much faster and more accurate. It also makes many Just-Frame inputs incredibly easy.
8. Who is this for? Do I need keyboard experience?
While it appears to share the most common ground with a keyboard, Hit Box is a balance between Joystick, Pad, and Keyboard together. You dont need background in any controller to appreciate the Hit Box: Anyone can use it!
9. Can I still do everything I can do on my joystick?
Everything and more.
10. What about Hadokens and Dragon Punches and SPDs?
Yes. Quickly and accurately.
11. What about "______'s ________ combo"?
Yes.
12. Is there a learning curve?
The learning curve is creating fast, new memory in your fingers. It doesn't take long. This also gets rid of old bad habits too!
13. Are these for advanced players only?
No! The benefits of these boxes can be appreciated by everyone from the beginning player to the most advanced tournament player. The whole purpose of the Hit Box is to aide your fundamentals and build your foundation so that you can focus on what actually matters in a match: your opponent.
14. What happens when you hold the Left and Right buttons together?
Left + Right = Neutral. Your character will stand still. No charging or blocking occurs.
15. Can I hold Left and Right to block cross ups?
No. Left + Right = Neutral; you will get hit in the face.
18. Can I walk forward and charge a sonic boom?
No.
19. Can I hold Back and perform shoryuken motions?
No. Left + Right = Neutral.
20. Is "Left + Right = Neutral" useless?
No! Left + Right is the basis for many advanced techniques that will make your life easier! You get access to 3-frame dashes, 1-button FADCs, rapid dragon punches, new option selects, safe and easy Korean backdash cancelling, and much more! Left + Right will help your execution significantly. Check out all of the tech in our video section!
The Hit Box all-button controller, AKA the "Stickless Stick," is a game controller specifically designed for fighting games. We replaced the joystick with directional buttons that are controlled by your fingers.
2. Why buttons?
By using 4 directional buttons controlled by 4 fingers, you gain:
- Increased input speed
- Consistent inputs yield fewer mistakes
- Exclusive control over your movement
- No travel time inputting directions
- Button techniques apply to movement and special inputs (plinking, piano, double tap, slide)
- Game-specific features such as SSFIV input shortcuts (such as walking dragon punches)
- No unintentional inputs such as accidental jumps
- No arm/wrist motion
- Stays put in your lap
3. Are those smaller buttons than normal?
Yes. We use 24mm Sanwa pushbuttons with exception to the 'Up' button, which is 30mm. They are highly sensitive buttons and work perfectly. 24 mm buttons are able to be brought closer together and fit the natural curve of the human hand. When the button spread is closer together, players find all buttons directly at their finger tips with no hand-hovering.
4. Can I still execute throws and focus attacks on this smaller layout?
Yes.
5. What about plinking and double tapping my combo links?
Of course.
6. Why have a shared jump button for your thumbs?
It is larger than the other buttons so both thumbs can access "Up" depending on player preference. By utilizing this, you can perform advanced "joystick" motions easily. Tri-jumps and Tiger Knee inputs are much faster and more accurate. It also makes many Just-Frame inputs incredibly easy.
8. Who is this for? Do I need keyboard experience?
While it appears to share the most common ground with a keyboard, Hit Box is a balance between Joystick, Pad, and Keyboard together. You dont need background in any controller to appreciate the Hit Box: Anyone can use it!
9. Can I still do everything I can do on my joystick?
Everything and more.
10. What about Hadokens and Dragon Punches and SPDs?
Yes. Quickly and accurately.
11. What about "______'s ________ combo"?
Yes.
12. Is there a learning curve?
The learning curve is creating fast, new memory in your fingers. It doesn't take long. This also gets rid of old bad habits too!
13. Are these for advanced players only?
No! The benefits of these boxes can be appreciated by everyone from the beginning player to the most advanced tournament player. The whole purpose of the Hit Box is to aide your fundamentals and build your foundation so that you can focus on what actually matters in a match: your opponent.
14. What happens when you hold the Left and Right buttons together?
Left + Right = Neutral. Your character will stand still. No charging or blocking occurs.
15. Can I hold Left and Right to block cross ups?
No. Left + Right = Neutral; you will get hit in the face.
18. Can I walk forward and charge a sonic boom?
No.
19. Can I hold Back and perform shoryuken motions?
No. Left + Right = Neutral.
20. Is "Left + Right = Neutral" useless?
No! Left + Right is the basis for many advanced techniques that will make your life easier! You get access to 3-frame dashes, 1-button FADCs, rapid dragon punches, new option selects, safe and easy Korean backdash cancelling, and much more! Left + Right will help your execution significantly. Check out all of the tech in our video section!
Combo Videos
How to Hit Box Tutorials
Spoiler:
Basic Motions:
Quarter Circle Motions
Dragon Punch Motion and Shortcuts
Charge Motions 1 - Sonic Boom
Charge Motions 2- Flash Kick
Half Circle Motion
360 Motion
720 Motion
Movement:
KoF XIII Jump Types
Dashing
UMvC3 Wavedash
UMvC3 Tri-dash
UMvC3 Float Cancels
Technique:
SSFIV FADC
Walking Ultra Shortcut
Tiger Knee
Piano
Standing 720 Introduction
Cardinal 360's
Slides
Standing 720
MK9 Basics
Quarter Circle Motions
Dragon Punch Motion and Shortcuts
Charge Motions 1 - Sonic Boom
Charge Motions 2- Flash Kick
Half Circle Motion
360 Motion
720 Motion
Movement:
KoF XIII Jump Types
Dashing
UMvC3 Wavedash
UMvC3 Tri-dash
UMvC3 Float Cancels
Technique:
SSFIV FADC
Walking Ultra Shortcut
Tiger Knee
Piano
Standing 720 Introduction
Cardinal 360's
Slides
Standing 720
MK9 Basics
3D Fighters:
Interactive Learning Tools
Spoiler:
Product Info
Spoiler:
HIT BOX - PS3/PC
$169.99
Shipping:
$20.00 in United States
40.00 USD Canada/Mexico
60.00 USD International
$225.00 USD
Shipping:
$20.00 in United States
40.00 USD Canada/Mexico
60.00 USD International
$169.99
Shipping:
$20.00 in United States
40.00 USD Canada/Mexico
60.00 USD International
- Sturdy Metal Case (16" x 7" x 2")
- Compatible with PlayStation 3 and PC
- Professional Powder Coat of Black Paint
- Artwork Underneath Plexiglass
- Easy Button Replacement / Modification with Quick Disconnects
- Proven, Patented, Ergonomic Hit Box Layout
- Toodles Cthulu PS3/PC Board (SOCD Firmware Controlled)
- 15' USB Cable with Velcro strap
- Authentic Sanwa Buttons (24mm & 30mm)
- Cases Made in USA
- Plexiglass / Artwork Made in USA
- Hit Boxes Assembled in USA
$225.00 USD
Shipping:
$20.00 in United States
40.00 USD Canada/Mexico
60.00 USD International
- Compatible with: PlayStation 3, Xbox 360, PC
- Sturdy Metal Case (16" x 7" x 2")
- Professional Powder Coat of Black Paint
- Artwork Underneath Plexiglass
- Easy Button Replacement / Modification with Quick Disconnects
- Proven, Patented, Ergonomic Hit Box Layout
- Akishop Customs PS360+ PCB (SOCD Firmware Controlled)
- 15' USB Cable with Velcro Strap
- Authentic Sanwa Buttons (24mm & 30mm)
- Rubber Feet for Support and Stability
- Cases Made in USA
- Plexiglass / Artwork Made in USA
- Hit Boxes Assembled in USA
PS360+ Multi-Console Edition Hit Box
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Cthulhu PS3/PC Edition
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
Spoiler:
↧
Undamned's USB Decoders (USB to JAMMA, etc.) !
Intro:
Well, folks, it's been a long time coming, but I'm really close to finally getting these things out there and into your hands!
Description:
This is the opposite of boards like Toodles' Cthulhu or the PS360 which take the button/joystick wire signals and turn them into USB. This takes input from your USB 360 or PS3 controller and turns that into button/joystick wire signals. You could use this to control any number of projects from Superguns to robotics, to anything you can imagine that you'd like to control with your digital 360 or PS3 joystick!
These are essentially the same circuit and firmware as that of the UD-CPS2 (ran at multiple major events including ST Games @ EVO, The Fall Classic, etc.).
Target price is $35.
Features:
- Terminal Blocks for solder free wiring (signal layout intentionally similar to MC Cthulhu so you can mate them for fun things like TE stick on SNES)
- USB A Socket
- Alternate header for USB signals - for people who don't to use the on-board USB socket
- Indicator LED - bi-color, red/green
- Alternate header for LED signals - for people who don't to use the on-board LED
- Pull-Up Selection Jumper - allows for pulling button/joystick signals up to +5V or +3.3V, depending on the application
- Player Select Jumpers - tell the joystick to light up the appropriate controller LED (can be set for P1-P4)
- Custom button mapping - for 6 action buttons
- Firmware can be updated via USB for future features/improvements
Example:
Here's what @Rufus did with a couple boards which were used at SoCal Regionals, early this year:
![DSC08604_CS_zps68321334.jpg]()
(sweet 3D printed case by @Rufus not included)
![SCR_2013__zpsdb03f7e7.jpg]()
(running on a supergun at SoCal Regionals 2013)
Ordering:
I've already ordered new PCBs (much improved design from the ones @Rufus had) and there is a slim chance I can get those built and out to my beta testers before Christmas. Otherwise, I have every intention of getting some out in January. That batch will help me figure out what is needed to ramp up for very large production. I want a constant supply of these for you guys because I'm pretty sure you will be eating them up like candy :D I will also set up some sort of ordering system to make it easy for everyone.
Future:
I'll also be offering a DB-15 version shortly after I get the Terminal Block version shipping. And after that, a super great NEO GEO version (no you can't shove the DB-15 version into your NEO GEO)! Prices will go up on these versions as they will be fully encased and require more labor to assemble.
Let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!
-ud
Well, folks, it's been a long time coming, but I'm really close to finally getting these things out there and into your hands!
Description:
This is the opposite of boards like Toodles' Cthulhu or the PS360 which take the button/joystick wire signals and turn them into USB. This takes input from your USB 360 or PS3 controller and turns that into button/joystick wire signals. You could use this to control any number of projects from Superguns to robotics, to anything you can imagine that you'd like to control with your digital 360 or PS3 joystick!
These are essentially the same circuit and firmware as that of the UD-CPS2 (ran at multiple major events including ST Games @ EVO, The Fall Classic, etc.).
Target price is $35.
Features:
- Terminal Blocks for solder free wiring (signal layout intentionally similar to MC Cthulhu so you can mate them for fun things like TE stick on SNES)
- USB A Socket
- Alternate header for USB signals - for people who don't to use the on-board USB socket
- Indicator LED - bi-color, red/green
- Alternate header for LED signals - for people who don't to use the on-board LED
- Pull-Up Selection Jumper - allows for pulling button/joystick signals up to +5V or +3.3V, depending on the application
- Player Select Jumpers - tell the joystick to light up the appropriate controller LED (can be set for P1-P4)
- Custom button mapping - for 6 action buttons
- Firmware can be updated via USB for future features/improvements
Example:
Here's what @Rufus did with a couple boards which were used at SoCal Regionals, early this year:
(sweet 3D printed case by @Rufus not included)
(running on a supergun at SoCal Regionals 2013)
Ordering:
I've already ordered new PCBs (much improved design from the ones @Rufus had) and there is a slim chance I can get those built and out to my beta testers before Christmas. Otherwise, I have every intention of getting some out in January. That batch will help me figure out what is needed to ramp up for very large production. I want a constant supply of these for you guys because I'm pretty sure you will be eating them up like candy :D I will also set up some sort of ordering system to make it easy for everyone.
Future:
I'll also be offering a DB-15 version shortly after I get the Terminal Block version shipping. And after that, a super great NEO GEO version (no you can't shove the DB-15 version into your NEO GEO)! Prices will go up on these versions as they will be fully encased and require more labor to assemble.
Let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions!
-ud
↧
Anyone else having problems with NVidia's new 334.89 Drivers?
I'm freaking out. I recently updated my driver to 334.89 and its causing some really screwy problems on my laptop. Anything rendered by the GPU (youtube videos and games INCLUDING ssf4..) all have a crapload of green artefacts and strange stretching/skewing of polygons on the screen. SSF4 AE too, and currently it's unplayable. It either looks like complete barf, or the game will just freeze and Windows will prompt me that the program has stopped working.
I've tried completely wiping my drivers and nothing seems to be working. The fact that Windows still somehow manages to install drivers automatically even after deleting all Nvidia related folders is beyond me O_o and I wish it would stop doing that. It's fucking annoying when there's a specific driver I want to install but Windows auto-installs some shit.
Anyway, if anyone has a solution of some sort to this issue, it'd be really appreciated.
I don't know if its useful information or not but I can run 3S on MAME with no problem and strange artefacts. But not SSF4 or KOF13.
I've tried completely wiping my drivers and nothing seems to be working. The fact that Windows still somehow manages to install drivers automatically even after deleting all Nvidia related folders is beyond me O_o and I wish it would stop doing that. It's fucking annoying when there's a specific driver I want to install but Windows auto-installs some shit.
Anyway, if anyone has a solution of some sort to this issue, it'd be really appreciated.
I don't know if its useful information or not but I can run 3S on MAME with no problem and strange artefacts. But not SSF4 or KOF13.
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↧
Mod Xbox Hori Tekken 6 Wireless Fightstick
For those of you specifically searching for how to Modify the Xbox Hori Tekken 6 Wireless Fightstick
Here is my first modified stick. My goal was to have a wireless, power controlled switchable 4 to 8 way directional fight stick, so I used an Xbox Hori Tekken 6 Wireless Fightstick as my base. Got all my parts from ebay, focus attack and Ultimarc and then I had to figure out how to modify the case to get everything to fit properly. The final product came out exactly as I had hoped. This joystick is perfect for switching between my favorite games like Donkey Kong and Street Fighter. Anyhow, Hope you guys enjoy. Please give me some feedback.
![Fb0qavl.jpg]()
Here's a list of the parts I used
- Ultimarc ServoStik - Powered 4 to 8 Way Switching (Sanwa JLW)
- Sanwa OBSC-30 Translucent 30mm and 24mm Buttons
- L298N Dual H Bridge DC Stepper Motor Controller
- Three-Way Toggle Switch
- Two-Way Toggle Switch
- 9V Battery
I Attached the JLW stick by removing the base plate that came with the joystick, and simply mounting it directly to the Hori Joystick Metal Base Plate
![PzOZMyS.jpg]()
Here's the innards, The inside of the stick is very crowded with little to no extra room. The added Stepper Motor, Servo, and 9V Battery take up a lot of space, so I had to improvise and try out a few different configurations. Here is the final result. I had to put the stepper motor on a piece of cardboard that flips up as this was the only configuration that would fit inside the controller. I used 3M tape to mount the cardboard to the case and screwed the Stepper Motor into the cardboard.
![mT6GMnr.jpg]()
Close up of the Servo 4 to 8 way switchable setup
![oz5Xgy5.jpg]()
Stepper Motor and switch setup
![qncCqFE.jpg]()
Flaps closed and ready to button up
![0HxbhXa.jpg]()
Here is a side shot of the toggle switches I have installed to control the servo. You simply flip the switch up for 8 way direction or down for 4 way direction. Push the button to activate the servo.
![IZtFjn2.jpg]()
Also a very great modification was to add some rubber feet to prevent the controller from slipping. So I bought these stick-on rubber pads from Lowes
![nLoFWwY.jpg]()
Video on the servo in action
![image]()
Here is my first modified stick. My goal was to have a wireless, power controlled switchable 4 to 8 way directional fight stick, so I used an Xbox Hori Tekken 6 Wireless Fightstick as my base. Got all my parts from ebay, focus attack and Ultimarc and then I had to figure out how to modify the case to get everything to fit properly. The final product came out exactly as I had hoped. This joystick is perfect for switching between my favorite games like Donkey Kong and Street Fighter. Anyhow, Hope you guys enjoy. Please give me some feedback.
Here's a list of the parts I used
- Ultimarc ServoStik - Powered 4 to 8 Way Switching (Sanwa JLW)
- Sanwa OBSC-30 Translucent 30mm and 24mm Buttons
- L298N Dual H Bridge DC Stepper Motor Controller
- Three-Way Toggle Switch
- Two-Way Toggle Switch
- 9V Battery
I Attached the JLW stick by removing the base plate that came with the joystick, and simply mounting it directly to the Hori Joystick Metal Base Plate
Here's the innards, The inside of the stick is very crowded with little to no extra room. The added Stepper Motor, Servo, and 9V Battery take up a lot of space, so I had to improvise and try out a few different configurations. Here is the final result. I had to put the stepper motor on a piece of cardboard that flips up as this was the only configuration that would fit inside the controller. I used 3M tape to mount the cardboard to the case and screwed the Stepper Motor into the cardboard.
Close up of the Servo 4 to 8 way switchable setup
Stepper Motor and switch setup
Flaps closed and ready to button up
Here is a side shot of the toggle switches I have installed to control the servo. You simply flip the switch up for 8 way direction or down for 4 way direction. Push the button to activate the servo.
Also a very great modification was to add some rubber feet to prevent the controller from slipping. So I bought these stick-on rubber pads from Lowes
Video on the servo in action
↧
Street Fighter X Tekken Arcade FightStick PRO - Official Thread
The FightStick PRO (Street Fighter X Tekken) limited edition has been announced and is now up for pre-order.
Street Fighter X Tekken - Arcade FightStick PRO
Limited to 1000 total, for both PS3 and Xbox 360.
Details here:
http://store.gameshark.com/listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=414
Images:
![SXT88381.jpg]()
![SXT88381.01.jpg]()
![SXT88381.02.jpg]()
![SXT88381.03.jpg]()
![SXT88381.05.jpg]()
http://iplaywinner.com/news/2011/6/7/e3-new-street-fighter-x-tekken-arcade-stick-prototype-from-m.html
Weird seeing the turbo on the right. I wonder if this is with Sanwa parts ala a TE or another stick with the new and improved MadKatz stock parts.
Neat to see regardless!
Street Fighter X Tekken - Arcade FightStick PRO
Limited to 1000 total, for both PS3 and Xbox 360.
Details here:
http://store.gameshark.com/listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=414
Images:
http://iplaywinner.com/news/2011/6/7/e3-new-street-fighter-x-tekken-arcade-stick-prototype-from-m.html
Weird seeing the turbo on the right. I wonder if this is with Sanwa parts ala a TE or another stick with the new and improved MadKatz stock parts.
Neat to see regardless!
↧
** Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN **
Akihabarashop.jp is now OPEN!
Now, some prices seem high and some low but what you get when you buy is 100% fresh parts from Sanwa/Seimitsu and not "old" stuff from secondhand dealers. All orders are shipped from Japan directly to the customer.
If you have any questions then feel free to post them in this thread and I try my best to answer them.
Arigato :).
AkihabaraShop.jp
Akihabara Shop is not responsible for packages lost or damaged during transit. We will always take a photograph of your order before shipping out, but when it is shipped it is out of our hands. We cannot be held responsible for customs or other local taxes imposed when a parcel reaches its destination, please find out what applies to your country before ordering.
*Other*
Sanwa and Seimitsu Catalogs:
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Sanwa1011.pdf
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Seimitsu2010.pdf
Now, some prices seem high and some low but what you get when you buy is 100% fresh parts from Sanwa/Seimitsu and not "old" stuff from secondhand dealers. All orders are shipped from Japan directly to the customer.
If you have any questions then feel free to post them in this thread and I try my best to answer them.
Arigato :).
AkihabaraShop.jp
***Disclaimer***
Akihabara Shop is not responsible for packages lost or damaged during transit. We will always take a photograph of your order before shipping out, but when it is shipped it is out of our hands. We cannot be held responsible for customs or other local taxes imposed when a parcel reaches its destination, please find out what applies to your country before ordering.
*Other*
Sanwa and Seimitsu Catalogs:
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Sanwa1011.pdf
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/catalogs/Seimitsu2010.pdf
↧
Canada and Europe bulk order for Hayabusa + Kuro
Ok, this isn't ready to go yet. I've contacted Hori about buying more than 3 joysticks (the website won't allow shipping of more than 3 sticks to me) and they said I can order as many as I want. I'm waiting for a reply about the shipping issue, and once it's solved I am going to get this bulk order thing set.
Here is how it will work.
I will put a list of up to 10 people who want a Hori stick. Reply to the thread and your name gets added to it. Once the list is full with 10 names I will close the order and private message my paypal address. Once I have shipping costs figured out, I will note how much each stick will cost and ask that you paypal me the money so I can put the order in. The bulk shipping from Hori to me to @FreedomGundam will be divided evenly between the 10 people buying the sticks. Each person will also have a set amount added to the order for the cost of FreedomGundam shipping to each individual person. If it's $5 then that's the extra cost on top.
So, the formula for the price is such:
Base cost of stick ($29)
+ shipping to me / 10
+ shipping to Freedom /10
+ shipping from Freedom to you
Starting off with 10. If there is more demand, I can up the list count.
Cuphost will be handling the European side. Same formula that applies to FreedomGundam will apply to Cuphost.
Canada orders
Hayabusa:
1. FreedomGundam: 1x
2. Lleg3nd: 1x
3. derukun: 1x
4. Scrub Saibot: 3x
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Kuro:
1. FreedomGundam: ?
European orders
Hayabusa:
1. CupHost
2. alainvey
3. Graymalkin
4. Gekko: 2x
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Kuro:
Here is how it will work.
I will put a list of up to 10 people who want a Hori stick. Reply to the thread and your name gets added to it. Once the list is full with 10 names I will close the order and private message my paypal address. Once I have shipping costs figured out, I will note how much each stick will cost and ask that you paypal me the money so I can put the order in. The bulk shipping from Hori to me to @FreedomGundam will be divided evenly between the 10 people buying the sticks. Each person will also have a set amount added to the order for the cost of FreedomGundam shipping to each individual person. If it's $5 then that's the extra cost on top.
So, the formula for the price is such:
Base cost of stick ($29)
+ shipping to me / 10
+ shipping to Freedom /10
+ shipping from Freedom to you
Starting off with 10. If there is more demand, I can up the list count.
Cuphost will be handling the European side. Same formula that applies to FreedomGundam will apply to Cuphost.
Canada orders
Hayabusa:
1. FreedomGundam: 1x
2. Lleg3nd: 1x
3. derukun: 1x
4. Scrub Saibot: 3x
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Kuro:
1. FreedomGundam: ?
European orders
Hayabusa:
1. CupHost
2. alainvey
3. Graymalkin
4. Gekko: 2x
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Kuro:
↧
↧
arcana heart 3(pc dump) controller dosent work
hi to all,im new here and i got issues with the arcana heart pc dump game,i can only use keyboards .
my controller works on yatagarasu game and marvel ultimate alliance .
for those who ask the controller is a ps2 with a usb converter.
my controller works on yatagarasu game and marvel ultimate alliance .
for those who ask the controller is a ps2 with a usb converter.
↧
Streaming and Recording Guide/Research
I've recently been trying to move GYT into the streaming space and have come to learn a lot. I thought this would be useful information to the community as we see more and more events being streamed and matches being recorded. So I decided to document everything I have come to learn about streaming in the past month or so and share it.
Matrox MXO2 Mini - Compared to the other capture device solutions, the Matrox MXO2 Mini is a bit pricey for a consumer level product. It will cost you around the $450 - $500 range depending on where you chose to buy it. However, for it's price, I find it to be the most powerful and flexible of the devices I researched. It is also the device I opted to go with.
It's flexible in the sense that it can do both component and HDMI inputs and outputs and it can interface with both laptops via PCMCIA express card and PC/Macs through a PCI express card. Depending on which package you purchase it will either come with a PCMCIA express card or a PCI express card.
The Matrox site has a convincing list as to why to choose the MXO2 over the Black Magic Intensity Pro which also showcases why it's a powerful little device.
Of course it has it's own set of drawbacks. The device is very temperamental. While using it with my Macbook Pro, you can't have the device connected while you are booting or else the system will hang. Often times you will need to completely restart your system and power on the MXO2 in a specific order for the capture software to function properly with the device. Many of the restart issues have been documented in a review by Vade of "Create Digital Motion" I find that once I've set everything up correctly, so long as you don't touch anything or have a stream crash, the device runs smoothly.
Black Magic Intensity Pro - I've had mixed feedback when it comes to this device. Some have claimed this as the "Gold Standard" for video processing and video I/O; however when speaking to Cicada who runs the House of Cicada stream, he tells me that the windows version of the drivers are a bit "hokey" at best. He's had issues using the Black Magic Intensity Pro with streaming software such as VidBlaster.
DJWheat of Epileptic Gaming / LO3 has a resolution to Black Magic Intensity and Vidblaster issues.
One drawback with the Black Magic Intensity Pro is that it's an internal PCI Express card. You will likely need a desktop PC to use it which is not as mobile as something like that Matrox MXO2 Mini and a laptop.
HDR Hauppauge - The Hauppauge is a powerful little device and is great for a cheap entry level recorder. It takes any HD input via component and records footage to your PC/Mac hard drive in h.264. It is important to point out that this device does hardware encoding straight into h.264, meaning your PC/Mac won't be spending precious CPU cycles encoding raw HD footage as the majority of the processing is being done by the box itself. This device quickly outputs game footage in h.264 format which many online video sites such as youtube or vimeo accept.
Where the Hauppauge really causes headaches is in post production. Since it encodes straight into h.264 which is a delivery format, it will take quite awhile to convert the footage back into a format used in editing programs such as Final Cut Pro. There are limited amount of programs that do simple cutting of footage but adding stuff like logos, player names, intros, background music may take awhile especially if you've recorded an entire 64 - 128 man tournament.
Some other drawbacks of the Hauppauge is that it does not have HDMI input.
Despite some of it's drawbacks, many people I have spoken to who own the device are generally happy with it. It's relatively cheap compared to some solutions, and there are not many people out there who are worried about adding logos, player names, commentary to their footage. They are much more worried about getting the footage out there and keeping a record of the match which this device can do quickly and easily.
Other things to note about this device is that there is limited OS X support right now. It does however unofficially work with Elgato's EyeTV video software.
Haunts from IPlayWinner.com discusses streaming with the Hauppauge
Hava Titanium HD
I don't have much experience using the Hava series of capture devices but aggrastat has written about it in detail here.
* Signal Splitters - signal splitters are key for outputting footage from your source, whether it be a PS3 or Xbox 360, to both the television that players view and the capture device.
When dealing with splitters an issue that might come up is frame latency, in particular lag between input from the controllers and what is outputted to the television. It's the same issue that many have come across when dealing with "laggy" televisions. Some games such as Street Fighter IV require strict timing to up to 1 frame. One way to mitigate this problem is to make sure the splitter is powered with its own power source, that way the signal is amplified. There are unpowered splitters on the market, but I don't recommend them if the game you are recording/streaming requires strict input timing. Unpowered signal splitters can also lead to darkened picture quality since it's not being amplified.
Even if you do use the best powered splitter on the market, the splitter will still create some "lag"; however the delay created is in the microseconds which is unnoticeable. Humans can only discern delay when it gets to the millisecond range.
It is still important to use a non-laggy television or monitor, particularly the televisions or monitors that do not do post HD processing. If you use a splitter setup with known delay issues with a television that is laggy, you just compound the problem.
When dealing with streaming or recording gameplay from a PS3 or Xbox 360, there are two types of splitters to consider: component or HDMI. There are benefits and drawbacks to each type. Some devices, such as the PS3, encrypt HDMI signal in a protocol called HDCP. It's a protocol used to protect againsts pirates who attempt to capture or rip Bluray movies, for example. There are splitters and devices that decrypt HDCP signals, such as the HD Fury , but it is still inconclusive what kind of delay or lag is created from decrypting the signal. Component on the other hand is unencrypted. There are, however, been industry talks and rumors about locking component output during playback of protected content. It is certainly something to look out for in the future.
One other unfortunate aspect of choosing component is there are known monitors, such as the ASUS monitor used at Evolution 2009, that have no lag but only have HDMI inputs and no Component inputs. You should also consider that older generations of the Xbox 360 do not have HDMI out.
In speaking to Robb aka "Jedi Robb" of the Devastation group, he sent me a list of powered splitters, both component and HDMI, that have had no complaints from players who played on the systems at Devastation '09:
CE Labs AV501HDXi 1 to 4 Component Splitter - This is the component splitter I opted to go with.
CE Labs HA4-3 1 to 4 HDMI Splitter
Geffen 1 to 4 HDMI Splitter
I've used Wirecast now extensively for about 4 months, and I have to say that it is an impressive piece of software. It is very user friendly. It really makes incorporating professional style lower thirds, overlays, and logos into your broadcast simple. Having no prior broadcast production experience I was really expecting a steep learning curve -- something akin to learning photoshop or final cut pro for the first time -- instead I was surprised at how easy it was to use. Just from looking at it's user interface you'll notice that it almost takes a minimalist approach when compared to something like VidBlaster, a competing streaming software suite. There are not a lot of buttons to interact with yet it is deceptively powerful.
![Wirecast.png]()
Pros
Here is a sample clip of a stream we did using Telestream's Wirecast. This was recorded on 12/1/2009 of a Street Fighter 4 stream: Wednesday Night Fights
You can also check out our Justin.tv channel which has matches from our latest stream using Wirecast playing on loop.
MIND YOU THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS. I will update as I learn, and as I have time.
* Hardware *
* Capture DevicesMatrox MXO2 Mini - Compared to the other capture device solutions, the Matrox MXO2 Mini is a bit pricey for a consumer level product. It will cost you around the $450 - $500 range depending on where you chose to buy it. However, for it's price, I find it to be the most powerful and flexible of the devices I researched. It is also the device I opted to go with.
It's flexible in the sense that it can do both component and HDMI inputs and outputs and it can interface with both laptops via PCMCIA express card and PC/Macs through a PCI express card. Depending on which package you purchase it will either come with a PCMCIA express card or a PCI express card.
The Matrox site has a convincing list as to why to choose the MXO2 over the Black Magic Intensity Pro which also showcases why it's a powerful little device.
Of course it has it's own set of drawbacks. The device is very temperamental. While using it with my Macbook Pro, you can't have the device connected while you are booting or else the system will hang. Often times you will need to completely restart your system and power on the MXO2 in a specific order for the capture software to function properly with the device. Many of the restart issues have been documented in a review by Vade of "Create Digital Motion" I find that once I've set everything up correctly, so long as you don't touch anything or have a stream crash, the device runs smoothly.
Black Magic Intensity Pro - I've had mixed feedback when it comes to this device. Some have claimed this as the "Gold Standard" for video processing and video I/O; however when speaking to Cicada who runs the House of Cicada stream, he tells me that the windows version of the drivers are a bit "hokey" at best. He's had issues using the Black Magic Intensity Pro with streaming software such as VidBlaster.
DJWheat of Epileptic Gaming / LO3 has a resolution to Black Magic Intensity and Vidblaster issues.
djWHEAT, post: wrote:The BM Intensity Pro works fine with VidBlaster, you just cannot use it directly into the program. I've done over 500 hours of streaming this year with the BM Intensity Pro + VidBlaster combo.
What you need to do is use a "catcher" program for VidBlaster.
VidBlaster is great program, but in reality it's optimization is pretty poor. So when you begin to pile more tasks into VidBlaster (recording, streaming, capturing cameras, etc) it really starts to take a beating (unless you are running a legit i7 core system).
I would suggest that you use VCam. VCam allows you to "capture" the signal from the BM Intensity Pro, and then you just fire it directly to VidBlaster. When you do this, you'll notice the quality of the BM Intensity Pro go from "totally shitty" to "Holy shit that looks awesome".
YOU ALSO WILL BYPASS ANY AND ALL ISSUES WITH AUDIO SYNC if you meet the following conditions... You must be using the Intensity Pro 2.1 drivers. Yeah I know, they are on like 3.4 now, but seriously, I played with about 12 versions of this driver and anything after 2.1 has some CRAZY audio de-sync going on (I think it has to do with locked framerates but BM has not confirmed this yet.
One drawback with the Black Magic Intensity Pro is that it's an internal PCI Express card. You will likely need a desktop PC to use it which is not as mobile as something like that Matrox MXO2 Mini and a laptop.
HDR Hauppauge - The Hauppauge is a powerful little device and is great for a cheap entry level recorder. It takes any HD input via component and records footage to your PC/Mac hard drive in h.264. It is important to point out that this device does hardware encoding straight into h.264, meaning your PC/Mac won't be spending precious CPU cycles encoding raw HD footage as the majority of the processing is being done by the box itself. This device quickly outputs game footage in h.264 format which many online video sites such as youtube or vimeo accept.
Where the Hauppauge really causes headaches is in post production. Since it encodes straight into h.264 which is a delivery format, it will take quite awhile to convert the footage back into a format used in editing programs such as Final Cut Pro. There are limited amount of programs that do simple cutting of footage but adding stuff like logos, player names, intros, background music may take awhile especially if you've recorded an entire 64 - 128 man tournament.
Some other drawbacks of the Hauppauge is that it does not have HDMI input.
Despite some of it's drawbacks, many people I have spoken to who own the device are generally happy with it. It's relatively cheap compared to some solutions, and there are not many people out there who are worried about adding logos, player names, commentary to their footage. They are much more worried about getting the footage out there and keeping a record of the match which this device can do quickly and easily.
Other things to note about this device is that there is limited OS X support right now. It does however unofficially work with Elgato's EyeTV video software.
Haunts from IPlayWinner.com discusses streaming with the Hauppauge
haunts wrote:streaming from the Hauppauge is best suited for small gatherings and tournaments. It's not really the most reliable way to stream just due to the fact that if you try to do too much, Eye TV will slow down and you wont have the best framerate.
I'm running a MacBook with 4 gigs of ram and this method works fairly well but it does have many draw backs that I'll try to explain here.
The set up is as follows:
PS3/360 with component video cables connected to the Hauppauge.
PS3/360 Audio Cables running to a mixer of some sort.
A mic or two running to said mixer.
Master Out on Mixer connecting to the Hauppauge Audio in.
EyeTV with Preview Window Open
CamTwist with Desktop + capturing the EyeTV Window
Soundflower to route the sound for uStream.
So, it's been a while since I've had this set up so I'm sure I missed a detail or two, but the basic idea is you are routing the video to the EyeTV preview window and capturing that with CamTwist's Desktop +. You're then going to use Soundflower to route the audio through EyeTV to uStream (this is the part where screen shots would be handy.) You of course control audio levels via the mixer.
As far as the specific settings to get Soundflower to give you audio via uStream, I dont know off the top of my head.
The problem (besides the mess you have to go through to get it to work) here is that the video lags slightly ont he EyeTV preview window compared to what is happening real time. So if you have a camera set up and try to do a PIP with CamTwist, the footage of the game will be delayed. Not a huge deal but some may find it odd to see people jumping out of their seats before anything happens on screen.
Also, as I mentioned before, even though the preview window in EyeTV runs very smooth, if you try to do too much at once it will obviously start dropping frames.
Hava Titanium HD
I don't have much experience using the Hava series of capture devices but aggrastat has written about it in detail here.
* Signal Splitters - signal splitters are key for outputting footage from your source, whether it be a PS3 or Xbox 360, to both the television that players view and the capture device.
When dealing with splitters an issue that might come up is frame latency, in particular lag between input from the controllers and what is outputted to the television. It's the same issue that many have come across when dealing with "laggy" televisions. Some games such as Street Fighter IV require strict timing to up to 1 frame. One way to mitigate this problem is to make sure the splitter is powered with its own power source, that way the signal is amplified. There are unpowered splitters on the market, but I don't recommend them if the game you are recording/streaming requires strict input timing. Unpowered signal splitters can also lead to darkened picture quality since it's not being amplified.
Even if you do use the best powered splitter on the market, the splitter will still create some "lag"; however the delay created is in the microseconds which is unnoticeable. Humans can only discern delay when it gets to the millisecond range.
It is still important to use a non-laggy television or monitor, particularly the televisions or monitors that do not do post HD processing. If you use a splitter setup with known delay issues with a television that is laggy, you just compound the problem.
When dealing with streaming or recording gameplay from a PS3 or Xbox 360, there are two types of splitters to consider: component or HDMI. There are benefits and drawbacks to each type. Some devices, such as the PS3, encrypt HDMI signal in a protocol called HDCP. It's a protocol used to protect againsts pirates who attempt to capture or rip Bluray movies, for example. There are splitters and devices that decrypt HDCP signals, such as the HD Fury , but it is still inconclusive what kind of delay or lag is created from decrypting the signal. Component on the other hand is unencrypted. There are, however, been industry talks and rumors about locking component output during playback of protected content. It is certainly something to look out for in the future.
One other unfortunate aspect of choosing component is there are known monitors, such as the ASUS monitor used at Evolution 2009, that have no lag but only have HDMI inputs and no Component inputs. You should also consider that older generations of the Xbox 360 do not have HDMI out.
In speaking to Robb aka "Jedi Robb" of the Devastation group, he sent me a list of powered splitters, both component and HDMI, that have had no complaints from players who played on the systems at Devastation '09:
CE Labs AV501HDXi 1 to 4 Component Splitter - This is the component splitter I opted to go with.
CE Labs HA4-3 1 to 4 HDMI Splitter
Geffen 1 to 4 HDMI Splitter
* Get Your Tournament Streaming Setup Rev 2 *
![GYT%20Streaming%20Setup%20small.png]()
* Software *
Telestream's Wirecast
* Software *
I've used Wirecast now extensively for about 4 months, and I have to say that it is an impressive piece of software. It is very user friendly. It really makes incorporating professional style lower thirds, overlays, and logos into your broadcast simple. Having no prior broadcast production experience I was really expecting a steep learning curve -- something akin to learning photoshop or final cut pro for the first time -- instead I was surprised at how easy it was to use. Just from looking at it's user interface you'll notice that it almost takes a minimalist approach when compared to something like VidBlaster, a competing streaming software suite. There are not a lot of buttons to interact with yet it is deceptively powerful.
Pros
- Really easy to use. If you understand the concept of layers from programs such as photoshop, GIMP, or premier then it will feel right at home.
- Really simple to use chroma keying for green screen effects.
- It comes preloaded with professional style shot-to-shot transitions and even a set of preloaded lower thirds. Adding your own lower thirds, graphics and video is as simple as dragging and dropping or importing them.
- I had no issues so far with Wirecast detecting any of my connected hardware. It detected all my input sources, cameras, and audio devices right out of the box.
- It has preloaded presets for streaming to your favorite streaming services including the two favorites Justin.tv and Ustream.
Cons
- It has a slight chance of crashing the stream when you edit properties of shots during a broadcast.
- It has no support for ip cameras or network cameras as of yet. They are working on this feature at the moment.
- No easy way of queueing or adding playlist of shots. It does, however, have an scripting interface using various programming languages.
- No integration with Adobe's Flash Media Live Encoder, though it does have it's own flash media encoder.
- Its cost. This bad boy cost $449 plus $99 dollars for the HDV Camera plugin if you intend to use High Definition cameras. And yes for you people looking to Arrrrrrrquire
![:sweat:]( ":sweat:")
this software, just know that the registration process "dials home" meaning it checks the key with Telestream's servers.
this software, just know that the registration process "dials home" meaning it checks the key with Telestream's servers.Here is a sample clip of a stream we did using Telestream's Wirecast. This was recorded on 12/1/2009 of a Street Fighter 4 stream: Wednesday Night Fights
You can also check out our Justin.tv channel which has matches from our latest stream using Wirecast playing on loop.
* Other Useful Resources *
Current Get Your Tournament Streaming Setup Rev 2 - Here is a diagram I made using Dia that diagrams our current setup.
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Myoungshin fanta stick vs Crown CWJ-303N/CWJ-FK
I picked up a Crown cwj-303fk stick a couple months ago and wasn't too happy with it. Noticed some directions were harder to hit than others. So I'm wondering if its because it was made by crown, is there a big difference between the crown sticks and the myoungshin fanta sticks?
How easy would the fanta stick go into a hrap ex se?
How easy would the fanta stick go into a hrap ex se?
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